JED

this lipo fits without mods: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Works well with the lunchbox, as you don't have to remove the shell to take out the battery, you can just unplug battery side. Also comes with a selection of wires to cut down on soldering if you change esc...

I sent this over to a mate a few days ago actually: Charger - cheap, not tested, but looks good. Has Lipo options, only 1-3s: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-cb-1s-charger-uk-version-/rc-car-products/380497 My charger, more expensive. Does lipo: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-uac50-charger-12v-110-240v-6a/rc-car-products/365880 There are loads of chargers to choose from, the core I have comes with lots if wires, and seems to be able to do anything I ask of it. I also have my eye on this as it is small, and cheap, but only does lipos 1-4s http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=389457

I would say adding that lipo was a little like upgrading to a sport tuned motor - adds a few mph to the top end, but overall performance is better and full power lasts until your low votage alarm goes, not just for the 5 mins as per nihm... For inserts, I have these ones: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=31994 I also have these, but have not used them yet: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=16890 I'm 99% sure they fit, and they are cheaper...

I would consider this one for a few reasons http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT cheaper, more mAh, soldering not required, soldering not required if you change your ESC, and you won't have to take the shell off to get the battery out for charging (connection is battery side) Tried and tested this end - i have them in both of mine. Need to check if you need an lipo low voltage cut off though, if it not built into your esc.

I used 75mm all round, so mine is not as rased as your at the back,. which I would imagine will make the wheelies easier... If you get the proper tamiya CW01 shocks (84365), the build instructions make you put shock limiters up front - these are design to limit the shock travel and stop the camber in reverse you mention. This is about 10-15mm of tubing over the bar inside the springs up front. It stops full compression. you could try adding something like this....

this lipo fits: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Works well with the lunchbox, as you don't have to remove the shell to take out the battery. Also comes with a selection of wires to cut down on soldering if you change esc...

I have no idea to be honest. I thought maybe it was something for the hornet, but I can't see it in that instruction book either. maybe someone else knows?

I am pretty sure that bit is not used as I have a couple in my spares box. The part BC7 - spacer is the one that most people miss which building this part - watch out for it!

Not really as it wheelies stock on demand when first built. I would say most important factor is having the tyres glued. After a while the wheelies will stop as the tyres stretch and start to spin on the hubs. 95% chance this is why

These are the tyre inserts that fit the lunchbox: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=31994 I've also got these in my wishlist as they were also recommended as fitting by someone, but I've never personally tried them: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=16890

I think you missed the point - because there is a deans connector built into this battery, you can unhook it at the battery end and have it in a lipo safe bag in seconds, and never have to take the shell off If you have another cable, you can charge it without needing to get to the one which is attached to the esc inside the shell. Super groovy!

Also - for anyone who is interested, I fitted the new Wild Willy driver. http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/54531-driver-figure-torso-p-7656.html You have to have oil shocks to do this rathr than the stock ones, and you need a long bolt to go through the U bracket, then through his arm. Puts him in the perfect spot - I'll up a photo later Edit: here are the photos! https://www.flickr.com/gp/36223587@N00/20SYW6

Oh - and the really cool thing about the battery I mentioned is as long as you have another charging cable, you don;t need to remove the shell to get the battery out. I haven't taken my body shell off for months!

Yes - this all looks pretty much correct. Bearings are good. Shocks are correct, but this is the packet with just 2 shocks. They also do a complete set of 4 specifically for the lunchbox, but not much stock in the UK. http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/84365-short-shock-unit-yellow-style-p-7653.html This is the one I'm talking about - very cheap to import, but will take a few weeks to arrive. I have not done the 5 shock mod, so not going to comment on what is best. Consider getting the full parts bag though for the spring mounts, as you get lots of spare parts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-LUNCHBOX-SHAFT-BAG-9400296-PUMPKIN-BS1-to-BS11-/231399318402?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e0796382 the breakage in the picture.... nothing actually looks broken - maybe the servo saver is broken or you have lost a screw? Not sure, but changing the shocks is not going to fix this Hope that helps. Best 'upgrade' I did for my lunchbox was this lipo, which works well with the tamiya ESC and fits in the battery cage: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT plus this monitor: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120988559049?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and a balance cable long enough to put the alarm near the servo so you can see the voltage through the windscreen: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300799110752?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Obviously you need a lipo charger for this:)

Sadly the old one came with no charger... woudl be interested to get one as I hjave a few. Was considering that newer one you mentioned as well - that is USB, right? Does that recharge AA inside, or does it come with it's own rechargable battery?

http://site.hobbypartz.com/FS-GT2-24ghz-Radio-black-01.jpg Picture of the charger port if it helps

i have rechargable batteries in my gt2, and I see in the manual that there is a charger that can be connected to the charger port on th TX, but it doesn't say what type. Does anyone know of a charger that will work with it so I don't have to remove the AA's every time I want to charge? Alternativly I suppose it could be just a cable which goes to my regular core RC charger. Cheers

https://www.flickr.com/photos/36223587@N00/sets/72157635356585543/ Rollin' Thunder ebay stickers on a parma shell Paint is Tamiya PS 7, PS 31, PS 12.

Check this out for set up: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp?t=n&id=img19691_07052009143413_1.jpg Also, I threw my instructions out, but Tamiya 84365 shock instructions are a good place to look, they had lunchbox set up details.... You can find pics and some info here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=72398

Cheers - I'm still fiddling with it myself, but If I fail I would be happpy to fire it your way will let you know!

The yellow or white cva shocks linked to a few pages are great! Thats a pack of four, and mine arrived very fast. No import charges as they are under the limit for charges at

Looks like I will have to have another look at this (or give up) I put it all back together again, and the esc is no just flashing it

Thanks- I thought this also, but it seems i had set it up right once the circit had been cleaned. Just hope it stays corrosion free and operational

Thanks very much for this - I wasn't sure how to get it apart... Just tried that and there was lots of corrosion where the 4 battery / motor wires meet the circuit board - wiped this off with a baby wipe and dried it, and it seems to now work as it should! Couldn

Hello, I've tested this one a few times now in a few different ways, and the same problem persists. A problem that started after the esc took a water dunk, but mostly recovered after a few hours... Problem - everything is operational, but it only goes forward at FULL THROTTLE, gradual acceleration is not possible. So referring to the manual, the light on the esc is on fully, until it goes off at full throttle. With this esc, it only starts moving at full throttle, when the light in the esc is off. So - anyone got any suggestions? I've tried it with a couple of differnt RX/TX/Motors. Same results once pared and set up. Maybe I am doing something wrong? (I have set the esc up many times before no issue) It seems to work in every way but this, so reluctant to just bin it and get another. Reverse is fine and gradual as it should be, plus half speed of forward, so I know it is reverse. I've never opedned on of these up - should I? Thanks in advance for any insight!