Iain .R Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Ok I just connected the wee switch (two wires ) red and black to the lights with 3 wires and it worked so the wires are black / brown red/red so I can cut off yellow wire???????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 21 hours ago, Cushion said: Suspect I am being stupid - bought a carbon upper plate, but the holes seem ever so slightly small for the existing screws. Can't work out how I can attach it, considering that smaller screws wouldn't fit in to the metal below. Do I just force the screws in, or do I need to get something special? Trying to remember what what it was like fitting mine..... I THINK I let the screws cut their own thread through the carbon fibre, but I guess it depends how tight a fit you are talking about? I’d get a second opinion before you do this, but if you can get the screw to bite the top of the hole, I’d go for it....... but really, don’t take my word for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 7 minutes ago, Iain .R said: Yellow orange wire is a signal wire, should be able to ignore it 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 13 minutes ago, Iain .R said: Ok I just connected the wee switch (two wires ) red and black to the lights with 3 wires and it worked so the wires are black / brown red/red so I can cut off yellow wire???????????? You probably could cut it off, but why bother? It’s not in the way, and who knows, one day you might need it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 (edited) Ok I'll leave it and wire up the lights . Cheers guys you guys are fab Edited December 21, 2020 by Iain .R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cushion Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 18 hours ago, Fat Freddy said: I’d get a second opinion before you do this, but if you can get the screw to bite the top of the hole, I’d go for it....... but really, don’t take my word for it. I gave it a go on the word of an internet stranger... it is incredibly tight, I can just about get the screw to the bottom of the carbon fibre but it's stripping the paint off the screw and there's no way I can get get it all the way down the length of the screw. My allen key is just about snapped from the effort - I can't apply more force! Have emailed Modelsport to see if I'm doing something stupid or need to buy something else. I had 5 minutes to buy a plastic backup off ebay last week, ended up getting a Carnage one which doesn't fit the Vandal/Vantage - re-ordered a 3rd (!) now first class, not quite convinced it will come before Christmas! Thanks for your help. Have a great Christmas everyone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cushion Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Cushion said: Have emailed Modelsport to see if I'm doing something stupid or need to buy something else. Modelsport came back quickly, having checked their stock and confirmed it was tight... the advice was to grease it up and force it in! Not a huge amount of equipment at the grandparents' house, but the addition of some Vicks and WD40 and a lot of elbow grease got the screws in 👍🏼 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 On 13/12/2020 at 21:03, Jens said: Maybe the crash was a blessing in disguise. My son just decided to eat a portion of veggies every night until Christmas. For Father Christmas to give him an extra present: Repair the Bugsta on Christmas night. Now I am in trouble since I cannot repair the car before he goes to sleep on Christmas Eve. ( He is at the brink of stopping to believe and I like to prolong that bit of magic feeling 🙂 ). It's gonna be a long night for me. Arghhh. Well... My son ate triple portions of veggies every day, wrote a nice long letter to Santa to have his car fixed before Christmas. And guess what, it was miraculous fixed while we were all out of the house. 😇😇😇. Went bashing again on Sunday in the mud. Then I hosed down all the cars and blow dried them with the air compressor. But it looks like some water was still stuck somewhere inside. Today we went out again. The Bugsta ran fine on the first battery. Then we had lunch and after the Bugsta was dead. Steering works fine, so it is not the receiver. But there is no power going to the motor. Total silence. And when I turn on the car I don't get the confirmation beeps anymore. I suspect the ESC or something around there is gone. The ESC comes with some external capacitors (I believe) glued on the base. Could water have come in there and caused damage? Any Idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 It is getting even more puzzling with the Bugsta now. I tried again just now, ESC was beeping and the motor was working. Turned the ESC off and on again and no more beep. Motor is also not working. Has anybody had that before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Its likely theres some water in the system some place, have you checked the reciver? The brushless ecu is splash proof should be ok for a quick hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 I thought of the receiver as well. But then the steering is working. Was very meticulously blowing air to the receiver. That is really dry. The only thing that I couldn't check were the capacitors wrapped in shrink tube. That's why I suspected the fault there. Left the car now for a night in the warm boiler cabinet. I will test it again sometime this morning and see... My son is now almost ready for more veggies to get a waterproof ESC/Motor combo and a Traxxas style waterproof receiver box 🙂 Currently he has to circumvent any deeper puddles whereas I can go through with my Rustler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 10 hours ago, Redback said: Its likely theres some water in the system some place, have you checked the reciver? The brushless ecu is splash proof should be ok for a quick hose. @Redback You might actually be right with the receiver. 1. Turned on the car and only got 2 beeps. 2. Changed batteries, 2 beeps again. 3. Unplugged throttle from the receiver and plugged back in. 4 beeps and working. 4. Changed batteries again. 2 beeps again. Then I saw that the receiver is quite "open". I can see the circuit. And it is dirty below the servo plugs. 5. Blow the receiver again with air. Some small amount of water came into my face. Looks like the receiver didn't even dry over night. 6. Tried again. No more beeps. Looks like hosing down the car completely might not have been a good idea. It might have worked for a few times but this time the receiver said good bye. But then I am not sure. Shall I just buy a new receiver?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Latest update on my Bugsta. Sharing it because it is some valuable information. Model Junction in Bury takes the credit for this advice!! Just swap the throttle and steering in the receiver. If the throttle works, then the receiver is blown. If the throttle still doesn't work, the ESC is blown. In my case, it is the ESC. Model Junction got a Hobbywing ESC that is compatible with the brushless motor for £35. Heading over now to get it. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 Welldone Jens looks like your investigations paid off . Well I went out with my carnage today with my 2 youngest . Let my boy have 1st go 25mins later dead battery his sister turn . Off she goes 7mins later str8 in to a curb smashed the front suspension holder in to 3 bits . 1 bit missing so need to buy new front suspension holders might buy 2 sets front and back as spares . AGAIN I didnt get.to play with my car . . So what's your guys thoughts on alloy replacements rather than plastic as I'm not getting an alloy chassis just yet. Cheers Meryl Christmas too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 So had a look and it's the one side that holds the suspension holder to the chassis that's snapped clean off and due to these going across the car I need to swap both of these and there a front and back . Looks like a big job . (To me it looks ) once iv done it I'll comment again lol . So what you guys think plastic or alloy replacement as I want to swap all the plastic bits to alloy but that's in the future. So do you think I should start now or buy plastic cheers hope you all had a good day . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 I would stick with plastic and try not to hit any thing 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennylogknob Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 I'm a proper fan of the aluminium suspension holders and arms on the front (no need for the rears). I used to snap the plastic ones very regularly (as I'm a rubbish driver) but I've had no hassle with the aluminium ones and it's been over a year since I fitted them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 Do you have a alloy chassis as well or plastic . I'm thinking of buying another carnage for my daughter to !!bash ! Lol as she love driving mine but the last few times everytime it's her go something brakes or it brakes down lol iv been sorting it as we go a long. . Ps anyone got a cheap carnage for sale lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 On 24/12/2020 at 18:43, Iain .R said: Welldone Jens looks like your investigations paid off . Well I went out with my carnage today with my 2 youngest . Let my boy have 1st go 25mins later dead battery his sister turn . Off she goes 7mins later str8 in to a curb smashed the front suspension holder in to 3 bits . 1 bit missing so need to buy new front suspension holders might buy 2 sets front and back as spares . AGAIN I didnt get.to play with my car . . So what's your guys thoughts on alloy replacements rather than plastic as I'm not getting an alloy chassis just yet. Cheers Meryl Christmas too Alloy suspension holders a good upgrade. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 7 hours ago, Iain .R said: Do you have a alloy chassis as well or plastic . I'm thinking of buying another carnage for my daughter to !!bash ! Lol as she love driving mine but the last few times everytime it's her go something brakes or it brakes down lol iv been sorting it as we go a long. . Ps anyone got a cheap carnage for sale lol I might have 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suls Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 (edited) Hi All Anyone here had issues with reverse disappearing on their Carnage, brought the kids a carnage and outlaw for Christmas, Carnage lost reverse within 20 minutes and the Outlaw is dead it seems (motor gone) within the same time frame so not a great start to RC. Was suggested in Outlaw Owners thread that rebinding might help the carnage however the receiver never goes to flashing green to bind which is what the manual states should happen. Anyway if anyone has any bright ideas I'd welcome them. Cheers Edited December 26, 2020 by suls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 (edited) If the rebind did nothing it could still be bound, Try resetting the calibration of the ecu with the controller. Not sure what model ecu you have but should be similar to this... https://www.etronix-rc.com/manuals/ET0405-0408.pdf Edited December 26, 2020 by Redback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennylogknob Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 21 hours ago, Iain .R said: Do you have a alloy chassis as well or plastic . I changed to aluminium after snapping a couple of plastic ones. It's true that the suspension holders are the first weak link in the Carnage set up and the more aluminium parts you throw at the problem the further along the line you chase the weak link. But having said that, the level of abuse it can put up with gets higher with each addition. Mine's quite a tough thing now and I've bounced it off all manner of things recently with no problems at all. I managed to get a T-Bone front bumper for it too and that's amazing. I can hit something solid at full chat and it just springs off in the opposite direction! Perhaps I should learn to drive properly and save myself a fortune but where's the fun in that? 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suls Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 2 hours ago, Redback said: If the rebind did nothing it could still be bound, Try resetting the calibration of the ecu with the controller. Not sure what model ecu you have but should be similar to this... https://www.etronix-rc.com/manuals/ET0405-0408.pdf Yeah it seems to be bound but just doesn't reverse (steering and forward works) , tried to recalibrate but the ESC doesn't beep at all, either when you turn it on or hold accelerate to start calibration, guess that points to a knackered ESC overall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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