Cushion Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 On 28/07/2020 at 18:22, EdwarddR said: Also these cars too quick for 8 year-old. Basically whizz around on full throttle until smacks something, or cooks the battery. I couldn't find a good way to rate limit the throttle. So I taped a lego spacer onto the Transmitter handle to rate limit the trigger. So down to about 60% speed. Modified both sticks, to be fair to him. Ha, that's hilarious and practical - I am stealing that idea. Was thinking about maybe swapping the steering and throttle cables as my remote lets me restrict the steeering, but not the power - but your idea seems simpler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 On 25/11/2020 at 15:46, Iain .R said: Hi sorry its I dont know anything about RC stuff I just found out that it's the Batterys that are knackered. I was just trying to find out why my ftx carnage was not running anymore or as long as it should . . The question.i thought if the euc was faulty would it stop my car from working and as bad as it is . As you pointed out if the ECU is at fault it wont work . Just my lack of knowledge on these things thanks What batteries have you bought and what charger have you got, re the ESC you could get a hobbywing 1060 for about £23 posted, but dont get it from ebay as loads of fake on there lets see if we can really get you sorted and running right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 On 30/11/2020 at 18:57, Jack Reacher said: What batteries have you bought and what charger have you got, re the ESC you could get a hobbywing 1060 for about £23 posted, but dont get it from ebay as loads of fake on there lets see if we can really get you sorted and running right I bought 3 floureon 3500MAH batterys and Radient mistral fast charger. Ac/Dc with different leads to do diffrent types batteies . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 3 minutes ago, Iain .R said: I bought 3 floureon 3500MAH batterys and Radient mistral fast charger. Ac/Dc with different leads to do diffrent types batteies . Are the floureon 3500mah batteries lipo or NI-MH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 3 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: Are the floureon 3500mah batteries lipo or NI-MH NI-MH .After christmas I'm going to see about swapping it over to lipo as I can get the complete kit for £17 off wish . But these batteys will do for now so I can play with my carnage . (For more that 3 mins ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 nothing wrong with NI-MH, i still mostly use them, you should get between 10 and 30 mins per pack at full charge, this all depends on throttle, it stands to reason go flat out and get short run time but go slow/steady and get more time, sorry for stating the obvious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 2 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: nothing wrong with NI-MH, i still mostly use them, you should get between 10 and 30 mins per pack at full charge, this all depends on throttle, it stands to reason go flat out and get short run time but go slow/steady and get more time, sorry for stating the obvious Hi that's cool I dont know anything about RC so when you think !! You should know that !!! I dont lol ( just look at the ecu question thing last page ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Just now, Iain .R said: Hi that's cool I dont know anything about RC so when you think !! You should know that !!! I dont lol ( just look at the ecu question thing last page ) If you dont know then you dont, thats why its handy to ask on here, BTW its ESC not ecu lol, i like the look of the charger you ordered, should do fine just make sure you read the instructions, your batteries will have white tamiya plugs on them, hopefully the car and charger will be right to charge and use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 29 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: If you dont know then you dont, thats why its handy to ask on here, BTW its ESC not ecu lol, i like the look of the charger you ordered, should do fine just make sure you read the instructions, your batteries will have white tamiya plugs on them, hopefully the car and charger will be right to charge and use Hi bugger fat fingers and dyslexia dont mix lol (I should have said right at the start when I joined .incase you guys see bad spelling an wonder is he stupid or drunk ) Yes I had a read them (very odd must be the 1st.time iv read the instructions) It's just finished the 2an battery one more to go give the charger an hour to cool down them do the last one . You have to click thro the types battery and then set the current it says 1800 no more than 2 A so iv just left it at 2A for 3500. If it's wrong it take longer to charge but that's ok . There is no information on what to put 3500 on If any you guys know plz let me know . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 i usually charge at 1c so in your case for a 3500mah i would charge at 3 or 4 amps but wont do any harm charging at 2a just as you said take longer 🍻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 5 minutes ago, Stormbringer said: i usually charge at 1c so in your case for a 3500mah i would charge at 3 or 4 amps but wont do any harm charging at 2a just as you said take longer 🍻 Ok thank you . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay R Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Slower you charge, longer the batteries will last. Not per run, I mean they will deteriorate slower over time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 On 05/12/2020 at 22:28, Jay R said: Slower you charge, longer the batteries will last. Not per run, I mean they will deteriorate slower over time. Hi so if I just do them at 2a best as it has 1a 2a 3a 4a just turn the dial to the number what one would you recommend . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I went out to day with my carnage and my 3 new batterys I got 15 mins out of one then the car stopped (this is prob the longest Iv had the car running since i bought it ) It just stopped dead .. the motor was very hot . I guess there is a cut off temp.switch so Tuesday I'm meeting with the RC guy iv been chatting to an hes fitting a fan on the heatsheld and iv cut air vents in the body so air flows around the car to try and keep it cool . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 We’re you using it at full throttle, driving through long grass, up hills etc? If not an overheating motor is usually indicative of something else that causing the overheating, eg dead bearings, drivetrain binding on something etc. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 5 minutes ago, Iain .R said: I went out to day with my carnage and my 3 new batterys I got 15 mins out of one then the car stopped (this is prob the longest Iv had the car running since i bought it ) It just stopped dead .. the motor was very hot . I guess there is a cut off temp.switch so Tuesday I'm meeting with the RC guy iv been chatting to an hes fitting a fan on the heatsheld and iv cut air vents in the body so air flows around the car to try and keep it cool . At high revs, even the smallest resistance is multiplied, are you sure there isn’t something binding somewhere? I had a similar problem with my Vantage and it was just the central drive shaft rubbing against the back of a new servo that was 2mm bigger than stock. Almost imperceptible when stationary, car seemed to move quite freely but like you, after 15 mins the motor was stupidly hot and the ESC would cut out. Did you say your car was an old one? Could be in need of some new bearings? (Not expensive or hard to fit). Although to be honest, from memory, using NiMhs I only got about 20 mins from a battery anyways. Really depends how trigger happy you are. If you rag it about on full throttle then you can expect a short run time and a hot motor. Did you try a second battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 3 hours ago, Nickarla said: We’re you using it at full throttle, driving through long grass, up hills etc? If not an overheating motor is usually indicative of something else that causing the overheating, eg dead bearings, drivetrain binding on something etc. Sometime going flat out but not all time .an on a flat carpark there was a small bit of grass but that was 5 ft then on to the next bit carpark . It was hot but not as hot as the battery .as I changed the battery (I thought it run out juice 1st time using that battery an it was close to 15mins run time ) so swapped the battery car made few beeps but would not run steering would work tho .so I guessed it was the motor cut out thing . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 3 hours ago, Fat Freddy said: At high revs, even the smallest resistance is multiplied, are you sure there isn’t something binding somewhere? I had a similar problem with my Vantage and it was just the central drive shaft rubbing against the back of a new servo that was 2mm bigger than stock. Almost imperceptible when stationary, car seemed to move quite freely but like you, after 15 mins the motor was stupidly hot and the ESC would cut out. Did you say your car was an old one? Could be in need of some new bearings? (Not expensive or hard to fit). Although to be honest, from memory, using NiMhs I only got about 20 mins from a battery anyways. Really depends how trigger happy you are. If you rag it about on full throttle then you can expect a short run time and a hot motor. Did you try a second battery? The car is about 18 months old . I had the RC guy I'm.meeting.Tuesday check the car over and he said it was very good for 18 months nothing worn but he did say (which iv bought ) to change all the plastic cogs to metal hes going.to be doing that for me . Along with the drive shaft barings .hes also fitting a fail safe thing and tomorrow hes putting on a fan on the motor for me so that should cool it as well . He did say few weeks ago when I 1st went to him he done a list of things I needed to swap on the car to make it run better . So if been buying the parts . But I needed to get the batterys and charger 1st . Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I’m not great on the technical side of all this myself, but from what I understand, if the motor is struggling, it will draw a bigger load through the ESC, that in turn will overheat. It’s the ESC overheating that’s actually stopping your car, not the motor. The hot motor is a symptom rather than a cause. I think the hot battery also indicates that it’s been drained quickly. I’d bet that if you took out a bearing and gave it a spin, it’ll feel gritty. If it does, for the price, I’d get some new ones. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 24 minutes ago, Fat Freddy said: I’m not great on the technical side of all this myself, but from what I understand, if the motor is struggling, it will draw a bigger load through the ESC, that in turn will overheat. It’s the ESC overheating that’s actually stopping your car, not the motor. The hot motor is a symptom rather than a cause. I think the hot battery also indicates that it’s been drained quickly. I’d bet that if you took out a bearing and gave it a spin, it’ll feel gritty. If it does, for the price, I’d get some new ones. Cheers I got you now . I thought it was the motor being hot that what stopped it right got you . I'll.get him to have a look at the barings tomorrow. As I know once I get the last 2 parts (which is £40 £20 each) hes going.to strip the car down swap all barings .cogs . Drives all from plastic to metal .then away I go . Just one thing i meant to ask early do i need to grease for the cogs/drives if so what one do you recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Hi I might be heading to WHAT A TIT moment from you guys . But as one you guys pointed.out it's the esc that gets hot not the motor an cuts out . Hears the question can you get a fan to go on the esc stop it getting hot . As I got a fan fitted.to the heat sheld which you know.fits to the motor . .so can you get one.fits to the esc thing ??? wait for the !!! god hes thick !! Replys . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Not a stupid question, answer is yes. 😁👍 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Fat Freddy said: Not a stupid question, answer is yes. 😁👍 Hay lol sorted . Where do I get one them cheers m8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Ok guys . Been to the RC man and hes fitted the fan and checked it over to find dun da da dun the bearing braket has slipped down between the 65T spur gear melted to the spur/disintegrated and jamming it up . So you guys was right there was some resistance I could not see it until he taken the both coveres off and taken the back drive off the car . So I have ordered a new one and spur gear (spur gear from america its alloy not plastic ) . So the car is now way way faster but he says go easy till the bracket is fitted back on . Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 54 minutes ago, Iain .R said: Ok guys . Been to the RC man and hes fitted the fan and checked it over to find dun da da dun the bearing braket has slipped down between the 65T spur gear melted to the spur/disintegrated and jamming it up . So you guys was right there was some resistance I could not see it until he taken the both coveres off and taken the back drive off the car . So I have ordered a new one and spur gear (spur gear from america its alloy not plastic ) . So the car is now way way faster but he says go easy till the bracket is fitted back on . Cheers Sometimes solving these puzzles is almost as satisfying as driving the things.😊👍 Enjoy. (Just google esc fan, there will be one there to suit your budget. Usually super easy to fit as well). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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