Nitroholic Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Currently pondering using a front shock tower at the rear with longer turnbuckles on teh top rear arms. That might give clearance. Then I can use a stub of manifold to attach it to the motor, then a silicon joiner, and then half hte curved section to swing it around. Then on with the pipe. I need to see if I can cover the distance in something close to stock length. Spent so much time messing about with this I didn;t have time to trim the shell Want to get that done tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmaxdriver Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Yeah that's not a bad idea actually! This is how its done on the Kyosho Landmax http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=kyosho+landmax&hl=en&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=oAwcwm_Xb3C9aM:&imgrefurl=http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D26112&docid=wLMt2ibXCO_CUM&imgurl=http://kyosho.org/gp20/Calsonic/calskyline011.jpg&w=640&h=480&ei=A8VGT5ntLpPc8gOKqPmFDg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1069&vpy=361&dur=1999&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=171&ty=104&sig=103363142842672319543&page=2&tbnh=146&tbnw=175&start=21&ndsp=23&ved=1t:429,r:16,s:21&biw=1366&bih=668 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Got a bit more done last night, and the shell mounting is well underway. First rough-cvut of hte shell looks good, though some minor trimming and cleaning up will be done once I have everything clearing like it should. Suspension travel looks reasonable and I don;t think I am going to have major issues with fouling with it at the height I have it. Wanted a compromise between nice look around the wheelarches and actually being able to cope with a bump larger than a blade of grass Front mount was made by simpling fixing on a Traxxas Stampede rear mount.... Rear mount will be fabricated this weekend. Here's the pics There is a generous gap over the wheels as this is a Rally car not a slammed saloon car. As the body mounts are adjustable....I can fit rock hard shocks, road tyres and lower the shell about 10-15mm and turn it into a Road car too... got to think of those tarmac stages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 that's looking really good- just love that shell I would love to do a nitro rally using a Audi quattro body painted in the original black/grey/red scheme...also with some big LED spot light clusters mounted up front...hmm were can I get a big Quattro shell I wonder.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomsicle Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Looks awesome mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) That's looks wicked! I just love the look of the shell and wheels put together. I have question though. How would you smoothen the wheel arches of the shell? I suppose you used a curved scissor to cut around..? I was going to purchase a clear shell for my RS4 but was worried that I wouldn't of been able to cut the arches off perfectly that put me off.. Edited February 25, 2012 by lazkopat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 That's looks wicked! I just love the look of the shell and wheels put together. I have question though. How would you smoothen the wheel arches of the shell? I suppose you used a curved scissor to cut around..? I was going to purchase a clear shell for my RS4 but was worried that I wouldn't of been able to cut the arches off perfectly that put me off.. use curved scissors or I just use a small pair of scissors to roughly cut them then I dremmel them with a sanding attachment and then a bit of sandpaper to finish- It's not that difficult and it's really rewarding painting shells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreXeL Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Looking superb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoothybb Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Have you thought of stealth mounts John? Keep the shell intact as far as possible? Dunno how strong you can make them? What about cooling for the engine, are you going to use the roof scoop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imwasted Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Looks really nice ....... Classic rally style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Smoothy....cooling is something I am a little concerned about. I could solve it by drilling lots of holes in the windscreen...but that isn;t the prettiest or most elegant solution. I do plan on cutting out the roof scoop front, but will really be taking that one a bit at a time as I run it. If enough cool air gets in then great...but I won;t know until I test it. Then I will make as few holes as possible to get the thing cool. As far as mounts go, with the size of the shell I want it as well fixed as I can get it...so velcro mounting is probably out. I plan on using some velcro tape aswell as hte body mounts as I want the front to stick to the bumpers I am making...and the same at the rear. That should help prevent shell edges snagging while running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
who Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I know you don't like brushless DC motors, I imagine that includes the one in fans? They only have a little bit of evil in them and might help keep the engine cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beard Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 A ton of love for this. if you're going to use velcro get some of the 3M stuff. i use it on my drifter's stealth mounts and it holds really REALLY well http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_1768wt_1037 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 I got the stuff on a roll ( 3M ) but I might pick up some of those pads too...They would be neater. Got the shell mounts finished today, and I am quite pleased with teh end result. The rear mount is an upside down Hyper rear shock tower. I wanted to buy a spare front tower as I thought I would need to use one at the back to keep the height down, but it turned out I didn't. I got a pair for pennies off E-Bay. I used the new front tower as the one on the donor had a kink in it and a few scrapes...and the one I bought was off a new truck. So that meant I had a spare rear tower. Flip it over and the shock bolts go through to anchor it. I then attached 2 spare body posts I had lying around to the top of the tower. Solid enough and does the job. Front body mount is a Stampede rear mount screwed through the front shock tower. Job done. Now in the process of making bumpers and new side guards to keep the muck out of the car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny_B Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Loving this conversion, I wish I had the time and knowledge to do something like this. Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing this fully finished and maybe a vid to see how well it runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dopeydog Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Nice conversion. What are those shocks? I hate the standard shocks on my Hyper with a passion. I can't be dealing with non threaded shocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 they came on the roller when I bought it from Smoothybb. The fronts were stock but he kindly included the matching fronts with busted shaft. I was able to swap shafts over from a spare shock I had to make it good so I had a matching set. No idea what they are from, but I like them. With fresh oil in they have a lovely action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUBZN1 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 They're from a sct I do believe , my hyper has them on and turner boy put them on for me Am not soo keen on them personally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazzokajoe Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 no... their hong nor 13mm threaded shocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dopeydog Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 They look like these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hong-Nor-Front-Shock-Absorber-Set-/400157280539?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item5d2b3b891b#ht_1518wt_1139 Hmm a bit too expensive for my hyper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny_B Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) Smoothy....cooling is something I am a little concerned about. I could solve it by drilling lots of holes in the windscreen...but that isn;t the prettiest or most elegant solution. I do plan on cutting out the roof scoop front, but will really be taking that one a bit at a time as I run it. If enough cool air gets in then great...but I won;t know until I test it. Then I will make as few holes as possible to get the thing cool. As far as mounts go, with the size of the shell I want it as well fixed as I can get it...so velcro mounting is probably out. I plan on using some velcro tape aswell as hte body mounts as I want the front to stick to the bumpers I am making...and the same at the rear. That should help prevent shell edges snagging while running For cooling I have seen quite a few drx shells that have got the front left and right side windows cut out for cooling, dont know how well this would work but this was something I was going to consider on my drx as I do not want to ruin the look by cutting out any part of the front window. Cutting a hole in the roof scoop sound a good idea too, I may include thatone my self. Edited February 27, 2012 by Danny_B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 For cooling I have seen quite a few drx shells that have got the front left and right side windows cut out for cooling, dont know how well this would work but this was something I was going to consider on my drx as I do not want to ruin the look by cutting out any part of the front window. Cutting a hole in the roof scoop sound a good idea too, I may include thatone my self. I would cut out the holes in the front grill and bumper and roof scoop and get a nice mesh behind them, and also cut out a squares in the windows (like the 1:1 rally cars have) you could also add spare off cuts of lexan next to the square hole to look like it has the little window flap open...if you get my meaning. - would look nice and 'scale' and would hopefully allow enough cooling to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny_B Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) I had also thought about adding mesh to the grill at the front and cutting that out to use as air intake but the only problem I thought I may come across is the fact it will weaken the front of the shell and make it easier to split, shoe goo built up around the edges could strengthen this though it's a good idea and would look nice too. With my driving skills at the moment I think I would split the shell to easily as I run into alot of things haha but that's just me. Edited February 27, 2012 by Danny_B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adolf hamster Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 this is a cerb project no doubt about that. as usual its something fresh and different. for the cooling, perhaps you could not only cut out the front mesh, but add a couple of small computer fans on the inside like you would expect to assist the rad in a 1:1, it wont make much difference at speed but maybe at idle it'll help prevent too much heat building up. tis just a thought but if anyone can make it work cerb can.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny_B Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 this is a cerb project no doubt about that. as usual its something fresh and different. for the cooling, perhaps you could not only cut out the front mesh, but add a couple of small computer fans on the inside like you would expect to assist the rad in a 1:1, it wont make much difference at speed but maybe at idle it'll help prevent too much heat building up. tis just a thought but if anyone can make it work cerb can.... These could also be used at the back maybe to draw the air out aswell as fans at the front drawing the air in. I cant talk from any kind of expereince as i have none yet but these are all things I have also thought about from reading about people needing cooling of some form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.