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Smoothybb

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Everything posted by Smoothybb

  1. As I understand it, name and number is all you have to give.
  2. That's the approach I've taken and like the flexibility it gives. I started with x1 b6 when I bought my first plane, I now have x2 b6 and x2 overlanders. I only currently go up to 4s but with planes, cars, quads and boats all having different batteries, it means I can charge whatever I'm going to need simultaneously on a different charger.
  3. Search for rotostart on fleabay and you get all sorts of options. Depending on the age of your hyper engine (cops or not), this is a full kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roto-Start-System-For-Hobao-Hyper-21-28-Engines-FT02623H/163346833659?epid=23011036115&hash=item26083ae0fb:g:F24AAOSwI8lZ73Ro
  4. Yes, the rotastart backplate just fits in place of the pull start housing. You can either buy the full kit including backplate, shaft and driver, or backplate and shaft to use with a drill.
  5. Good luck, it's definitely worth tinkering with, it's all part of the hobby, the main thing is to keep thinking calm thoughts or you'll end launching it like I do... In the past, I've ended up with the pull cord not recoiling completely and rather than take it apart again, a length of fuel tube round the cord can help stop the handle flapping around. 👍
  6. Buy a new one! As you've found, they can be repaired but even if you capture the spring locator, find a way to keep it in place then sort the actual pull chord, ime they're never the same. They can be sorted but by eck them springs are sharp!
  7. My bad, but you put ist and that isn't a connector type. 😉
  8. It looks like the 1.25 3p jst/molex I've used in the past for fpv.
  9. Very nice. What a vista while flying the p2k!
  10. That's very shouty. I hope your keyboard survived. 👍
  11. Are being deliberately obtuse? You've made countless false statements and yet continue to double down with more irrelevance.
  12. Let me make this clear as you seem to be missing the point. You stated that because rc's use a central nut, there will always be wheel wobble. This is incorrect. The shaft, the drive seat, the wheel, the tyres, all of these will have an effect but you cannot say that by default, a central nut causes wheel wobble.
  13. Right, so nothing to do with the central nut then.
  14. If what bothers me? I've literally just said I only have a problem with the mad bull and that's got shafts and wheels on order to sort it. Like I say, if you're happy with a sloppy setup, crack on, it's your model, I'm just saying you don't have to accept it just because it's a central nut. I'm pretty sure F1 cars only use a single central nut but the components seat properly.
  15. I'm talking about wheel wobble, not tyres being out of alignment, slop in the steering etc. Even on 4s my car park bashers would be horrible if the wheels wobbled. Maybe I've just got lucky on mine but my wheels fit the shaft they're designed to. All my hypers run true with a central nut. My mad bull doesn't run true and it's having parts replaced to make it right. I guess on something dog slow it doesn't matter so people just accept it.
  16. That's not true. If the wheel is correctly seated and all parts compatible, there's no reason to have wheel wobble on an rc.
  17. The article I've just read states it needs to be paired with a capable dc power supply. So looks like you need a separate ac to dc unit.
  18. I think I can get a turnigy 4000mah block Lipo into the battery tray if I cut the top out of the plastic 'loop'. I want a spare part to practice on though!
  19. Good luck, I think you need in tamiya style to fit but it's a limited choice. I have some 4000mah 3s batts from an old quad, never been used. I think I'm going buy replacements parts for bull so I can modify them to fit big oblong lipos.
  20. The fleabay seller said mine were 76mm fronts, they seem okay so far. Not sure what hyper 7 rears are. I had it out yesterday and found nothing has improved the horrendous snaking when reversing, everything is just too loose currently. Tempted to take my shocks off, see if that helps! 😁 Need a new rod from servo to bell crank as well, that bent first crash. Final thoughts, maybe 3s and 10.5t motor is a bit much for this model. The front wheels spend too much time in the air when accelerating! 🤔
  21. It charges my 4s fine. Not the speediest but happily does the job.
  22. Yep same as mine, although the araldite repair lasted a decade! I went with 76mm front shocks, from a ts4n according to the fleabay seller. For now I've whacked hyper 7 rears on the back but am yet to test properly. As for the steering, everything is loose, no precision at all. The rod from servo to bellcrank can be improved with heat shrink but I replaced mine completely before I realised I had the servo the wrong way round. I've also added heat shrink to the pushrods which has helped a bit. I intend to replace the cheese ones with these when I can be bothered to measure properly https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Servo-Steering-Linkage-Pull-Rod-for-1-10-Scale-RC-Car-SCX10-90046-TRX4-D90-Parts/283817919841?hash=item4214ddc561:g:0TUAAOSwVoJecIj2 I'm yet to see if any of the improvements will stop the horrendous snaking when trying to reverse!
  23. Good old nitro, I don't miss it! Still got a couple but the fuel is probably 3yrs old so not much good. That has to be one of the lesser problems if you've had nitro for a while. Our dining room table stills shows scars from when I introduced it to nitro fuel and the garage wall still has tyre marks from a runaway! 😁 FYI, safer to block the carb to stop the engine, slightly better than kinking the fuel line. Both methods avoid burnage!
  24. I'd guess at a Toymate RX8. I think you'll struggle to get spares, given the manufacturer no longer lists it. I would suggest your only option is to contact Toymate and ask if they can supply a Steering Adjuster assembly or words to that effect.
  25. That looks like a rtr toy, which normally makes it trickier to get spares. It appears the steering trim assembly is completely missing. Was there a white plastic adjuster there previously? If you share the model details, it will make things easier.
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