macbut999 Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) Can anyone make a recommendation for settings using MM ESC with a CC 1717 or 1515 Edited August 30, 2012 by macbut999 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Can anyone make a recommendation for settings using MM ESC with a CC 1717 or 1515 1717 is going to pull too many amps for an MM at 6S IMHO. Stock ESC actually has a higher amp rating. There's a guy from the US called Dirtconvert who ran a MM/1515 combo and he has vids on youtube of his setup. However he blew his MM in the end and upgraded to a bigger can. If you are doing the same I'd set eveything as mild as possible on Castle Link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Have bookmarked this thread as my Vader XB should be here Tuesday. It has a castle creations big block BL motor and nanotech 65C lipos. Can't wait! Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Have bookmarked this thread as my Vader XB should be here Tuesday. It has a castle creations big block BL motor and nanotech 65C lipos. Can't wait! Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Nice. you'll be modding it in no time! There's a lot of usefil info in this thread and on redcatrampageforum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Its here and its great fun. I have 2 problems though, 1. Needs a new shell. Where can I get one that fits? Doesn't have to be a Vader one? 2. The LVC on the ESC is set too high I think, cells still have 3.6v in them when they're connected to the charger. How do I reprogram the ESC? The manual talks about a setup button, as far as I can see I ain't got one! Richard Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 The video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I got my shell from here. They aren't cheap though... http://www.southwatercycles.com/m64b0s920p0/Car_-_Bodyshells/1_5_Off_Road How are the motor temps on your 1717 on that grass? My rebuild is finished. I am running a TP power 1100kv motor at 8S on a 12T pinion with the stock spur and stock wheels. Power is from Mamba XL2 but with a turnigy 7.5A external BEC. Running at 75% power and torque level of 4.5. I get good slow speed takeoff, good torque in low to mid range, and the front wheels just start to lift at max throttle. Motor temps after 15 mins are 50 celcius, with ESC and cells running at 40 celcius. It's just absolutely brilliant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I don't know my temps tbh. I'm actually now wondering if my ESC or motor is overheating as it does cut off at points. No choice about shell cost I'm afraid, it needs one! Its gonna get full of crud without. Does the redcat shell fit? Are they actually the same car? Anyway, I got a program card for the esc coming and I'm gonna make sure the lvc and punch are correct. Right now it rips up the grass and spins if you bang on the throttle, obviously that's not the best fun! Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Think I'll get the clear body and spray it metallic black with 1cm around all edges blue..... Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 If power is cutting out something is not right. The 1717 will pull a lot of amps at 6s so be careful your lipos are up to it - 30c is not going to be enough. If you follow the earlier posts in this thread you'll see the problems Spriggan and other had trying to keep this setup stable. There also a hell of a lot of info on redcatrampageforum.com from the guys in the US. This buggy is distributed by Redcat as the Rampage XB-E, and by Maverick (HPI UK) in Europe. You can get a cheaper Redcat shell on fleabay but the shipping costs add up too. The replacement shell is made of a better / thicker grade polycarbonate than the standard one and should last better if that helps justify the cost. Be careful not to get the shell that goes on the petrol version (Rampage XB) or the HSP version of the buggy as that one is just plain ugly. Here is my buggy in metallic gunmetal with green Monster Energy stickers. Metallic black / gunmetal with the Monster graphics is the standard livery for all my models, though recently getting Monster Energy vinyls on Ebay has been more difficult. http://mydarkvader.blogspot.co.uk/ The shell is so big that the 1cm blue round the edges will barely be visible! I'd say black with lime green edges, but actually black and orange works even better! Happy for you to PM me if you want more advice... The Vader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 The batteries are 65-130c, they should be able to deliver the current no problems. I'm wondering if something is overheating. Hopefully when the program card gets here I'll be able to dial it down to something use able! Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I got a program card but found the settings on the card and the settings listed in the manual did not match. In the end I did it by hand using the buttons and counting the beeps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Well I can confirm that the HobbyWing Program Card from Blacksmith on ebay works with my stock ESC! Have turned the punch down and set the LVC to 3v. Here's hoping now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 3v is too low, you'll kill your lipos. 3.4v is where you want to be at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 3v is too low, you'll kill your lipos. 3.4v is where you want to be at 3.4? I'll get about 30 seconds runtime! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve74 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 What size lipos are you using ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Richard said 65c Nanotech's. Unless they are tiny they should be able to maintain their voltage better than this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Somethin ain't right, that fo sho! 3.4 ftw! Pretty much industry standard these days. Are you sure you're not way over-geared? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarddenton1982 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Ill have a look, havent checked gear sizes yet. Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 (edited) It has taken me a few days but Ive finally caught up on this whole thread. Ive had my vader less than a month now (its my first RC car so jumped into the deep end), and on the third trip out managed to kill a motor and ESC, but shall start from the beginning. Bought my Vader about a month ago from a friend at work, just loved the power it had when test drove it. First thing I did was to change the dean's connectors over, my friend showed me one where the connection melted through the plastic housing, so on went EC5 all round. From memory it has the 7075rc Rear Bearing Holders and Front C-Hubs. It also came with a Castle Creations 1717 taken out of a Traxxas. I bought a pair of Turnigy 8400mA 40-80C batteries. First time I took the buggy out all way good, motor was hot to touch but the ESC and Battery's were cold. Second time I took the buggy out it kept stopping about 40m out, and then nothing so walked over to find that one of the solder joints had come apart, so I shall be rerouting the cabling so its not above the motor. Third time I went to take the buggy out it was making weird noises, the drive-shaft wouldn't rotate and it made it about 6 inches before smoke came out of the ESC so everything got turned off. Went over to a friends and trying the motor on a brand new ESC the motor wouldn't rotate, and when it did it wouldn't do it smoothly. Upon closer inspection it showed that the pinion gear slipped down the shaft and was boring itself into the motor mount plate. This was completely flat faced when it was first installed. Ive bought some 6mm brass piping and am going to make a spacer (like they use inside) to stop it from slipping again. So an order was put in for a Hobbywing EZRun 150A ESC (UK Stock) and the guy in the States who sold the motor originally wouldn't exchange it but has sold us the motor casing at discount (still on its way from the states). So with it off the road I took the opportunity to do a complete strip down and rebuild to learn what all the parts are. Great exercise, but it really is like toothpaste in those Diffs. I ended up rebuiliding them with 50k fronts and 30k rears as someone else in the RC group ran a vader and thats what he rebuilt his with. I also decided to cut the nose off of the shell. I HATED having to keep bending the nose through the suspension towers, so shaped it off just before. With the new ESC though it fouls on either the motor, or the driveshaft cups so I now have to find a way of raising it approx 6-8mm from the standard location and it will be fine Ive also ordered up a CC blower to keep the motor cool, and want to make up some rear mud guards. Can't wait to get it up and running recently. I have learnt from this thread about Lipo charging etc and storage so after having them above storage charge for over a week they are on discharge now down to about 3.8v a cell. Lets hope the batteries fully charge next time though Ive made a thread in the gallery with all the photo's for anyone who is interested to the build/damage http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/181758-nip-nip-maverick-vader-xb/ Look forward to keeping around on this thread Edited October 13, 2013 by Nip Nip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Nip Nip Nice writeup! I'd be interested to see how you get on the with 1717, and whether or not this is enough motor for a Vader. I had the same thing happen with my pinion gear slipping onto the motor mount on a test run, because I hadnt put lock-tite on the grub screw. Fortunately it didn't hurt the motor. Mine has a TP5698 1050kv motor and a Mamba XL2, so gobs of torque and power, but with the KD motor mount it is very front heavy in the air. For jumps my eBaja 5b is much better. I reckon the weight balance with your 1717 will be pretty good. If you need more info on your setup, there's a few guys at redcatrampageforum.com who have run 1717s. Obeast44 posted a lot on it a while back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Cheers for the info. I shall have to go take a look on their forums too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 There's some crazy rednecks redcats over there in the US of A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Good to see the old Thread is going well. I gave up on my Vader after it burnt out its second ESC, (fortunately both times when the shell was off). I personally found that the Sirus 1717 which is the same as the Castle 1717 motor was just to powerful and pulled too many amps on the track. The motor, ESC and Batteries were always far to hot, but could have been because the gearing was a little to high. I found that using sticky backed Valco around the bottom edge of the bodyshell to the side gaurds was a good way to mount the shell, as it saved using body clips, which made it a quick release system, and also made the shell a lot stronger as it wasn't flapping around. The Poor old vader now sits out on a shelf in the garage! Keep on having fun guys. Sprig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 So Santa got me one of these for Christmas and I'm looking forward to running it when it gets a bit drier. I've read the stock motor is too underpowered for it so been thinking about going the 1717 route and running 2x6s 5000mah in parallel however they are huge and would need the trays sides chopping. I have a fair few 2s lipos so might look into a 4s setup, seen on the red cat forum there's quite a few people running leopard motors and my previous experience with these has been good just need to decide on suitable KV and find one with a 5mmm shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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