Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Ive had my vader less than a month now (its my first RC car so jumped into the deep end), and on the third trip out managed to kill a motor and ESC, but shall start from the beginning. Bought my Vader about a month ago from a friend at work, just loved the power it had when test drove it. First thing I did was to change the dean's connectors over, my friend showed me one where the connection melted through the plastic housing, so on went EC5 all round. From memory it has the 7075rc Rear Bearing Holders and Front C-Hubs. It also came with a Castle Creations 1717 taken out of a Traxxas. First time I took the buggy out all way good, motor was hot to touch but the ESC and Battery's were cold. Second time I took the buggy out it kept stopping about 40m out, and then nothing so walked over to find that one of the solder joints had come apart, so I shall be rerouting the cabling so its not above the motor. Third time I went to take the buggy out it was making weird noises, the drive-shaft wouldn't rotate and it made it about 6 inches before smoke came out of the ESC so everything got turned off. Went over to a friends and trying the motor on a brand new ESC the motor wouldn't rotate, and when it did it wouldn't do it smoothly. Upon closer inspection it showed that the pinion gear slipped down the shaft and was boring itself into the motor mount plate. This was completely flat faced when it was first installed. and this is how the inside of the motor now looks So an order was put in for a Hobbywing EZRun 150A ESC (UK Stock) and the guy in the States who sold the motor originally wouldn't exchange it but has sold us the motor casing at discount (still on its way from the states). So with it off the road I took the opportunity to do a complete strip down and rebuild to learn what all the parts are. Great exercise, but it really is like toothpaste in those Diffs. I ended up rebuiliding them with 50k fronts and 30k rears as someone else in the RC group ran a vader and thats what he rebuilt his with. I also decided to cut the nose off of the shell. I HATED having to keep bending the nose through the suspension towers, so shaped it off just before. With the new ESC though it fouls on either the motor, or the driveshaft cups so I now have to find a way of raising it approx 6-8mm from the standard location and it will be fine Can't wait to get it up and running recently. I have learnt from this thread about Lipo charging etc and storage so after having them above storage charge for over a week they are on discharge now down to about 3.8v a cell. Lets hope the batteries fully charge next time though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Well..you really did throw yourself in at the deep end! Mind you...you are doing all the right things, so perhaps that's no bad thing. Those Castle 1717's are EPIC motors, so if you can save it..it's well worth it. Replacing the sludge in the diffs with good quality oil is a wise move too. They have a hard time and need all the help they can get. There was a thread here on the Vader XB which is well worth a read if you haven't already. I'd look at fitting the ESC on the ally brace plate if it fits under the shell there. Then you can drill a few vent holes in the windscreen area and get some cool air to it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Cheers for the reply I had looked at mounting on that top plate, but I think it could look quite messy. I just need something like packing material to place underneath it and it should be good. Will also mean it might cushion it slightly too It has just taken me about 2 days to read through a Vader XB thread, was about 40+ pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Bad luck on the motor! That blows! Hope it survives. If the ESC and batts were both cool, but motor hot, try adding one or two teeth to the pinion, you could be under-geared. Just watch the temps closely if you do this, make regular stops to check motor temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Bad luck on the motor! That blows! Hope it survives. If the ESC and batts were both cool, but motor hot, try adding one or two teeth to the pinion, you could be under-geared. Just watch the temps closely if you do this, make regular stops to check motor temp. Do you mean remove teeth from the pinion? I thought the motor would run hotter with more pinion teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Do you mean remove teeth from the pinion? I thought the motor would run hotter with more pinion teeth? Over-geared means everything runs hot, your set-up sounds possibly under-geared. Just a thought, based on your temps and the fact the 1717 is an animal of a motor! When a car is under-geared, the ESC and cells remain cool, but the motor gets hot from spooling up to very high RPMs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Thanks for the info. That's the first time I've read about under-gearing. I've got an 11t I could go up to. I didn't know if the motor was working harder (getting hotter) because of the friction of the pinion gear boring into the motor plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Indeed, it could've caused more strain on the motor, but as the ESC and cells stayed cool, I still reckon gearing is your main issue. As I said, watch your temps when changing gearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Indeed, it could've caused more strain on the motor, but as the ESC and cells stayed cool, I still reckon gearing is your main issue. As I said, watch your temps when changing gearing. Thanks for the info tonight. I shall go up to 11t I think when I rebuild and see how I go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Thanks for the info tonight. I shall go up to 11t I think when I rebuild and see how I go Just "go" gently! Then report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Some of the reading in the main vader thread is when everything is wired up I'm going to drop down the throttle on the ESC. Seems to help ease the drivetrain and batteries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 nice, always fancied a Vader, someone else on here was running the 1717 and it looked quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 28, 2013 Author Share Posted October 28, 2013 Update time once again: I decided to make a brass shim up for the motor to try and stop the pinion from working its way down the shaft again. While still waiting for the new motor to turn up from the states I made up some rear mudguards (spoiler they work amazing, must be my fav upgrade) The plastic was sourced from a (clean) cat litter tray. Then the new motor casing turned up WOOOOO I thought it was best to also install a cooler In the process of swapping over the motor casings this was why the old one stopped working: Then it was all up and running Out on its first trip and the mud guards proving there worth. They also just wipe clean due to the material they are made from 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbs10 Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 lol that cooler wont work as the motor dia is to big and the motor you have is a 17 series and not a 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nip Nip Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 lol that cooler wont work as the motor dia is to big and the motor you have is a 17 series and not a 15 On the castle creations site where the 1717 is listed it was this blower that was directly linked on their own site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbs10 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 On the castle creations site where the 1717 is listed it was this blower that was directly linked on their own site yea mate read again and look at the table Get even more out of your Neu-Castle 15 series motor with the CC Blower fan shroud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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