Spriggan

Hi Guys, can anyone with a Hot Bodies D8 or D812 let me know how wide the body is? Cheers. ?

Hi guys, I'm planning on dipping my toe into the 1/10 buggy racing scene this summer. I've got me buggy, an Sworkz S12, and now looking at what racing setup to put in it. The guys at the local track have said 7.5 -8.5 Turn motors would be fine, but recommended to go with the 7.5T When I asked 'Why Turn rather than KVA', they said it was easier to understand.... Well, I'm confused! Looked at the Trackstar motors on Hobbyking, there are two 7.5T motors, one 5135kv and the other 4210kv clearly quite a big difference in speed. The same with the 8.5T motors @ 3807kv & 4620kv. Clearly you cant relate Turns to speed output of the motor. So which motor is best to use, a high Turn rating with a low kv, or a low Turn rating with a high kv????

Seems a bit quiet on here now dont it!!! but then this thread has been running over 5 years. There is nothing unusual about getting a bit of play in the dogbones VM. So long as the drive cups are tight and the bearings are good there is nothing much to worry about. My profile is about 3 years out of date as well!!!

Over heating was the main problem with mine. It needed to run at 6s to get the speed, although some were running on 5s and finding it ok.... I felt it was the gearing that was at fault. At the time I was running the Vader, Castle motors had hit an all time low having changed suppler. so we were all waiting for Sirius (who used to make Castle) to release their 1717 motor. It was unfortunately too higher KVA to run on 6s. I fitted the smallest pinion I could find but it was still over geared on 6S. The only option was to change to a finer tooth pitch and have a larger spur gear machined out to fit the center diff. That would have given me a much wider range of gearing available..... The other problem back then was the ESC, the hobbywing 150 was the recommended controller, but wasn't man enough for hard use. the only 200amp ESC at the time was the Castle 200, but at the time this wasn't reliable.

Yep, in reality they dont do a great deal, but still worth leaving them in. And I bet youll be just like the rest of us and start driving harder than you mean to. :-)

Hay, my old thread is still going!!!! If you mean the droop screws, same as with any car, if you take them out they will not reduce the amount of travel the arms have, (not that really do a great deal), so the travel is limited by the length of the shock. In a heavy roll over, the full force of the impacts on the top of the wheel is then taken solely by the shock shaft, which can result in the lower ball joint splitting or ripping off the shaft. The droop screws do help a little in protecting against that happening, plus it doest effect the handling if the wheels drop too far when jumping.

Hi Guys, We are looking for anyone who has an S-Works 350T Truggy for sale. If you have one for sale, give me a shout. Sprig.

Hi guys, we are looking to find a good upgrade exhaust to fit the Mavrick Blackout XB and ST. The stock can with that long stinger pipe seems to sap all the power out of the engines. Removing the stinger pipe defiantly does help, but still lacks the umph it should have. My mates running the stock engine, and I have dropped in the Zen 28.5 4 bolt that used to fly in the Punisher, but in the Blackout with the stock pipe it still sounds asthmatic. I fitted one of the two part curly pipes with the small rear box, that gives a bit more get up and go, but sounds to loud for track use as its a straight through pipe. We are wondering if the Duel exit pipes would be any better. Anyone tried them? Or recommend a good pipe they have found that fits inside the cage. Cheers Guys.

Cornwall RC Racing is holding a FREE OPEN DAY on Sunday 28th December, to allow drivers old and new to experience what we have to offer. Track will be open from 9.30 to 5.00 and welcomes all scales of all types of Off Road RC, weather its powered by battery, Nitro or Petrol. These days the Cornwall RC Racing track is open every Saturday and Sunday, offering local RC drivers a friendly and convenient place to test their off road driving skills, with the added convenience of, the help and support of experienced RC drivers/operators, On site refreshments & toilets, and a sales section, selling Fuel, Glow plugs, Fuel line, Batteries, Tools, Nut, Blots, washer, shims, and lots of other accentual bits to keep your cars running through the day. We also 12v & 240v battery charging facilities and fast charges available if required to keep the lekky buggies running all day. Cornwall RC Racing, just makes the whole RC experience better. https://www.facebook.com/stpiranraceway/photos/a.321560967946221.1073741829.317357565033228/532394330196216/?type=1&theater

Quick question, should a Savage gearbox be greased inside or not????

You can find them all in the Himoto range... the 1/18 RRP is

Good to see the old Thread is going well. I gave up on my Vader after it burnt out its second ESC, (fortunately both times when the shell was off). I personally found that the Sirus 1717 which is the same as the Castle 1717 motor was just to powerful and pulled too many amps on the track. The motor, ESC and Batteries were always far to hot, but could have been because the gearing was a little to high. I found that using sticky backed Valco around the bottom edge of the bodyshell to the side gaurds was a good way to mount the shell, as it saved using body clips, which made it a quick release system, and also made the shell a lot stronger as it wasn't flapping around. The Poor old vader now sits out on a shelf in the garage! Keep on having fun guys. Sprig.

Hi Guys, after my rather troubled dabbles with 1/5 electric in the style of the Mavrick Vader, I thought I would treat myself to a new play thing. So picked up a Himoto Shootout, 1/8 rallycross buggy, which is the electric version of their Nito Firestorm buggy. The buggy fitted with the Himoto 3000kva motor, not sure what size esc, and a 3250mah 4S lipo, which is suppose to give about a 20 minutes run time. What I found was, apart from the buggy jumps very well and was soon pushing the distance record off the table top of the Cornwall RC Racing track within a few attempts, was that the buggy would only manage about 1.5 -2 laps of the track before over heating and cutting out. And that would be everything hot, the battery, the motor and the esc would all be unpleasant to touch. Then once it had cooled a little, off it would go again. The brushless motor and esc is suppose to cope with anything from a 3S - 6S , so the 4S lipo does give about the right rpm from the 3000kva motor to match the gear ratio of the nitro version, although it does go like you know what off a shovel, so I would imagine that -1T pinion would still work well. The other thing that was suggested was to run on a 3S lipo..... Would this make the system run cooler? if so what the hell would a 6S have done to it! Anybody else got one of these Himoto buggies? Cheers, Sprig.

Next Sunday is going to be Cornwall RC Racing's Summer Open Day, where you can have a day of fun on the track while the family pop off to the local beaches, attractions or towns. https://www.facebook.com/events/132473466960325/ It's a 'Run What You Bring' day, so you can turn up with what ever you have and give it a go, or if you need help getting an old car running there will be helpful people around to give you a hand. Our on site camping is only

The funny thing is, the younger drivers our club get ridiculed at school about playing with toy cars. They dont know what they are missing!!! We have a few Old boys at our club, but then not many youngsters can afford to run the more expensive stuff. Spot the under 35's!