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THE E-Firestorm Thread


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I spent far too long messing with nimhs. Once you go lipo you won't go back.

Soldering isn't as hard as it looks. I am now confident after a few goes, you just need a 60w iron, flux paste, heat shrink, 60/40 solder, helping hands and youtube.

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I spent far too long messing with nimhs. Once you go lipo you won't go back.

Soldering isn't as hard as it looks. I am now confident after a few goes, you just need a 60w iron, flux paste, heat shrink, 60/40 solder, helping hands and youtube.

True. Go lipo in the first place. Especially if you want to upgrade your motor and ESC to brushless.

You need to read up about lipos though there are threads on this forum that will tell you all you need to know

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Edited by Leo Best
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Hi all,

My lad has my efirestorm handed down to him running a brushless setup. Since he has had it i have replaced quite a few parts but more recently the rear drive has become very rough. When you the car off the ground one side moves up and down when you gun it. Will this be the diff? I have also noticed the cups getting very worn. Also is there a good replacement/upgrade i can use on the rear upper turnbuckles as these keep popping off even though they are new?

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Hi all,

My lad has my efirestorm handed down to him running a brushless setup. Since he has had it i have replaced quite a few parts but more recently the rear drive has become very rough. When you the car off the ground one side moves up and down when you gun it. Will this be the diff? I have also noticed the cups getting very worn. Also is there a good replacement/upgrade i can use on the rear upper turnbuckles as these keep popping off even though they are new?

The wheels are unbalanced most likely because of a crash or hard jumps or hitting curbs. So you need new wheels.

Always replace the drive cups on both diff and wheel side. You lose a lot of power when they are worn.

Rear turnbuckles are just like that. Perhaps the balls that the turnbuckles attach to are worn?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Edited by Leo Best
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Hi all,

My lad has my efirestorm handed down to him running a brushless setup. Since he has had it i have replaced quite a few parts but more recently the rear drive has become very rough. When you the car off the ground one side moves up and down when you gun it. Will this be the diff? I have also noticed the cups getting very worn. Also is there a good replacement/upgrade i can use on the rear upper turnbuckles as these keep popping off even though they are new?

pm sent wheels
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Finally got the SC8 soldered up.

Took it for a bash today and was racing cars down the road

Does anybody have issues with the firestorm tracking going out all the time ?

The steering parts aren't very precisely made but adjusting the steering trim and replacing worn out parts is all you can do

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

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I've bougth the E-FireStorm Brushed Version, i must it say it is amazing but i think i'm having alot of bad luck with it.

On the first run my front suspension poped off, somehow it unscrewed at the bottom. And then a dog bone popped off along with the drive shaft. But no worries because somehow i managed to find every single piece that flew off.

 

Today, my Spur Gear got reck. I think a small stone migth have found a way in or the motor just wasnt properly screwd. 

 

Is it ok to use Locking Washers to tighten up the motor?

Is this bad luck? Or begginer mistakes for not checking everything first?

 

oh btw, i abused it on the first day. 

Edited by EquinoxRC
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I've bougth the E-FireStorm Brushed Version, i must it say it is amazing but i think i'm having alot of bad luck with it.

On the first run my front suspension poped off, somehow it unscrewed at the bottom. And then a dog bone popped off along with the drive shaft. But no worries because somehow i managed to find every single piece that flew off.

Today, my Spur Gear got reck. I think a small stone migth have found a way in or the motor just wasnt properly screwd.

Is it ok to use Locking Washers to tighten up the motor?

Is this bad luck? Or begginer mistakes for not checking everything first?

oh btw, i abused it on the first day.

You might be abusing it a bit much. Don't use locking screws on the motor its unnecessary just align the gears properly and make sure the screws are reasonably tight. But not really tight you might strip the motor mount thread

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

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what do you mean by "dog bone popped off along with the drive shaft."? Did you check all screws etc before your first run? It really is a must even on new models. Did you check the spur mesh as if if incorrectly set can cause stripping or where you jumping and doingr lots of heavy rear landings?

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If u bought it new did u do the every nut bolt Allen head hex screw ect check? ??As quality control ..even with hpi is a bit hit n miss nowadays tbh....and alot of people's first problems arise from not doing the once over....bits coming loose. .falling off ect....and wrap ur shafts in bright tape...makes finding them alot easyer

Edited by evssv
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I also lost my Antena Tube..Should i glue it to the RC ?

 

No buddy dont glue it. 

 

we oldie folks use a trick or two to keep antenna tubes in place. 

 

what you need is a short piece of nitro fuel tube, you pop this over the post hole where your antenna

tube pushes in. Once you have this little rubber tube in place ( about a 10-20mm long ) you will now thread your antenna

tube into the rubber tube and down into the chassis tube holder. 

 

it helps grip the antenna tube. Now here is the clever bit.

if we gentley pull out the antenna tube so its in the rubber tube

BUT NOT pushed into the chassis holder it becomes a flexi antenna mount. 

 

 

now when you roll your car/truck the antenna tube, instead of being a long stiff pole,

can bend and flex so it will not break or fly out when not needed. 

 

Hope this helps keep your antenna tube in place

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