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BEC FAQ


cbr6fs

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I have been asked to start a thread on fitting a BEC to surface vehicles, so will try me best.

Thought the best format would be a question and answer type layout.

Q/ What is a BEC?

A/ BEC stands for "Battery Eliminator Circuit"

Traditionally most RC products run off 7.2v and higher, this is great for the motor and Esc, but most Rx's and servo's run off 6v.

So rather than run a separate 6v battery supply for the Rx and servo manufacturers started incorporating and BEC into their Esc's.

Q/ Doesn't my Esc already have a BEC

A/ Chances are it has yes

Q/ So why do i need another?

A/ Most manufacturers use very poor BEC's in their Esc's, these tend to work out for cheaper servo's but once we start to upgrade to faster stronger servo's they really start to show their weakness in providing good solid amps to both the Rx and servo.

Q/ How do i know if i need a BEC?

A/ In my opinion, if your paying £30+ on a servo then £10 on a BEC is an extremely wise investment.

Not only will your stock servo run better (so you might not need the upgraded servo) because your now supplying good consistent clean power to the Esc, this will also run better.

Q/ Any downside to running a BEC?

A/ Only real downsides are:

1/ Your wallet will be just over £10 lighter

2/ There are more wires knocking around your chassis

3/ Fitting it

Q/ What are my BEC options?

A/ There are many many BEC out there, it really depends on what servo/servo's your running and what voltage you want to run them at.

For 99% of our surface vehicles something like the Castle Creations BEC will be more than adequate.

product300x96-ccbec.jpg

It operates up to 6S input voltage and outputs from 4.8v up to 9v.

As it outputs up to 10 amps, it's enough for all but the wildest servos and applications.

If you want more there is also the Castle Creations BEC Pro

product300x96-ccbecpro.jpg

This operates up to 12S and outputs from 4.8v to 12.5v with 20 amps peak output.

There are many many more BEC's out there from the likes of Futaba, Hobbyking etc etc but these are the 2 examples i'm most familiar with.

Cheers

Mark

Edited by cbr6fs
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Q/ How do i connect the BEC?

A/ Obviously you need to connect the + and - input wires of the BEC to the battery.

For the BEC's output though you have 2 options here:

Option #1

Connect the BEC to the Rx.

This will power the Rx then the servo from the Rx

cc_bec_wiring_diagram.jpg

This will only work if you have a 3 channel or more Rx, or the Rx has a power input (as used by Nitro's) like on say the Hitec Rx's.

As standard your Esc provides power to your Rx (then to the servo) via the connector the Esc connects to the Rx with.

This is the 3 wire cable with the servo type connector at the end.

Now because we are now powering the Rx via our BEC we no longer need the Esc's power input, so we MUST remove the red wire as illustrated in the diagram above.

Word of caution though, most Esc's today use this connector to program our Esc's.

If you cut the red wire then the programming card or castlelink will NOT work.

For this reason i highly recommend that you buy a short "servo extension cable"

SEC-5CMFF-2.jpg

You will then remove the red pins by prying open the connector like so:

e4da41816c8b4f38be3fde49bec3d654.jpg

Then gently pulling the pin out.

Once both ends are removed, either tape the up out the way, or just remove the red wire entirely.

Cheers

Mark

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nice write up mark :good: i see it as if more then 3s running bec wise investment

deserves sticky +1 cool.gif

Edited by R46
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Q/ What about after i'm connected do i need to do anything else?

A/ Before or after you sort out the connections on most you will need to program the BEC to your desired output voltage.

With the Castle Creations BEC's you will need to plug in your CastleLink to the BEC's 3 wire output and start the CastleLink software.

Once connected and the software started you should see this window.

Clip0003-1-1.jpg

I've not yet seen any BEC software upgrades, so you should be good to go to the "Basic" tab to set the voltage.

Clip0001-8-1.jpg

As you can see from the asterisk, from the factory the standard CC BEC comes configured to 5.1v.

You need to check with your servo manufacturer as to what voltage you need to set it to, on my Hitec 7980 i'm running at 8v.

My Turnigy HV300 runs up to 12v so as the basic BEC only ran to 9v i ran this servo at 9v.

Find out your servo's recommend voltage, set it to that, press the "update" button to send the change to the BEC and your good to go :thumbsup:

That's about it really.

I can't recommend using a BEC highly enough, the BEC's used in both MMP and MMM in particular are extremely poor, i'm able to brown out my Rx with both these Esc's supplying the Rx even with relatively mild servo's.

For just over £10 i honestly believe they're a great investment, as i say only downside is the extra wiring knocking around your chassis :confused:

Hope this helps, i'm by no means any expert, but i've wired up a few BEC's now so if i know the answer i'll happily answer any questions.

Cheers

Mark

Edited by cbr6fs
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Battery Eliminator Circuit

Uses the running batteries in an electric car to power the servos, rather than having a seperate 4xAA pack, or hump pack.

Most ESC will have one built in - but if running high voltage batteries, they tend to be inefficient and an external BEC can be used, offering advantages as described above.

http://en.wikipedia....minator_circuit

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excellent thread , much needed, agreed with R46 sticky is needed , i use a Y-harness though to connect my bec rx connector to one end and esc rx connector to other then into the rx itself , still trying to get my head round how to do it with just a servo extention ? where would both the esc and BEC leads go ? 1 would be left out ?

just re-read the thread and you already explained that :good: excellent write up

Edited by sonik
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excellent thread , much needed, agreed with R46 sticky is needed , i use a Y-harness though to connect my bec rx connector to one end and esc rx connector to other then into the rx itself , still trying to get my head round how to do it with just a servo extention ? where would both the esc and BEC leads go ? 1 would be left out ?

Depends, are we talking option #1 or option #2 here?

I'll take a guess that you mean option #1 as you mentioned servo extension wire not Y-harness.

If that is the case then the only thing the servo extension wire is doing is removing the + connection from the Esc, rather than chop up the Esc wire directly.

Excuse my rubbish paintshop but kinda like this.

Clip0001-20.jpg

By using the servo extension wire you are still able to plug in the castlelink etc straight into the Esc :thumbsup:

Plus i'm not sure if CC would still honour the Esc's warranty if we started cutting and chopping it's Rx cable.

So by yoiur theory, if i run my ace in my lightning, i should fit a BEC???

I have no theory.

In my experience a BEC is a good investment.

I use them on all my off-road cars, i do not use them on my on-road cars as it's difficult to hide the wiring and the servo's on my on-road cars do not offer anywhere near the same amount of torque.

I have no idea what a "ace" or a "lightning" is, so have no opinion.

Edited by cbr6fs
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An ACE DS1015 servo and a hot bodies lightning brushless converted truggy :rolleyes:

From a quick search it seems that the ACE DS1015 is a 6v servo with 200 oz/in.

As a comparison i was running an Align DS610 servo at 6v in my Losi Mini Rock Crawler, that servo is rated at 166 oz/in and i found that my MMP was not able to supply it with enough power at certain times.

Obviously a Rock crawler even a mini one will put more demands on a servo than a truggy, but for the sake of just over £10 and 10 mins faffing about with a servo extension or Y-harness i'd fit one meself.

Really depends on:

1/ If you suspect your having problems, (usually a good sign is glitching or brown outs)

2/ If your not bothered about a couple of extra wires on your car

3/ If you can be bothered fitting one.

4/ If you have just over a tenner spare

If your willing to put up with the above it certainly can't do any harm :thumbsup:

Wow Mark

Thank you, will have to print out a copy and stick it in my eRevo folder :good:

Thanks again, i think i can get my head around it after all :)

Hope it helps mate.

It's one of those things that sound more complicated than it is, once you've got everything laid out in front of you it's pretty much self explanatory

If i've not explained something to well though and you struggle just gimme a shout :thumbsup:

Cheers

Mark

Edited by cbr6fs
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10A is a huge amount of current for most applications. A fifth scale servo will usually stall at 3-6A. Smaller servos less than that. IE, unless you're running 2 or 3 1/5 scale servos, the 10A is likely to be plenty.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This may be a silly question but can I run two steering servos from one BEC? And if so how would I wire it up?

Thanks, Jay.

You can run as many as you want, only worry would be the current draw exceeding the BEC's limits if it was a small BEC and big servo's.

To wire it up you just need to split the power from the BEC to the 2 servo's :thumbsup:

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