cbr6fs

No real best, it all depends on what you want to do. I run option #2 as i don't want my Rx blacking out if i bind, but either will work fine. Completely different thing. A capacitor is usually used to prevent or cure glitching, it's a poor choice for powering a servo though. BEC stands for Battery Elimination Circuit UBEC stands for Universal Battery Elimination Circuit There is no difference in function between the 2 it really just comes down to which brand you prefer

Welcome to the XR10 owners club

Come on Gaz, there are already enough drama queens here without you starting to swing that way as well. I'm not arguing anything, just talking about my opinion on something, no need to start throwing a wobbly. My point is what will change after 6 months? If you keep the car stock then what ever flaws it had after 6 to 10 battery packs are still going to be there 6 months later. As an example, if he bought a XR10 to try, then as soon as he started to put it through some serious use it's strip it's gears. If he then replaced those gears with more stock gears, they'd strip again, and again, and again. It's not like the 4th set of gears will somehow miraculously work better. On the few vids i've watched he isn't doing quick tests, the cars i've seen him review have had a good old bashing over weeks not days and where needed on various terrains and tracks. I'd say that if there was a inherent problem with a model then there is an extremely good chance it would show up in his tests, just take a look at his crash tests as an example. Plus, it's not like the guy is getting for his contribution is it, why the hell would he stick with a fundamentally flawed car that is no fun to drive for 6 months

Same again with every shell, some nice painting and designs ruined by having the shell sit too low so having the wheel arches cut too high.

I don't see how owning a car for longer has any relevance on a review. Using the TT Mini rally car as an example, the stock tyres will still be rubbish, and only TT's wheels and tyres for that specific car will fit, stones will still get caught in the wheels and the handling will still be the same on the same surfaces. Only way to review would be different is if he carried out mods and upgrades on the car. Problem then is, your reviewing the mods NOT the car, plus to be fair he would have to try every manufacturer of each upgrade as well, it starts getting a noggin expensive then. I'm sure i've seen some of his vids where he modifies cars, but you can't expect him to hop up every single car he tests with every single hop up. Again using this example he did try to change the wheels and tyres but they didn't fit. Some good YT channels out there for RC stuff, i think the best bet is to watch a few, do some searching and reading and form an opinion somewhere between the haters and the fan boys. It's also important to read to between the lines. If you go on the USA crawler forums you'd think the XR10 is the best crawler ever made, the truth is it's absolutely terrible out of the box barely fit for purpose never mind the best crawler there is, the Losi MRC is exactly the same. It's only when you read the build logs and find that the comp XR10's really have very little Axial parts left on them that the penny drops. Good luck trying to point out any problems with it as stock or any problems with many of the upgrade parts companies though. So you just have to sensible and draw your buying advice from as many sources as you can .

Seems like fair criticism to me in his review Can't comment on his attitude as i've never spoken with the guy.

Obviously beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but as you asked "what do you think"..... I think that your trying to get your bodies too low, in doing so your having to cut the sills and wheel arches too high to have a car that drivers, which then makes the body look all out of proportion. As an example look at my old Skyline shell Slammed: Normal useful stance Again beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but to me the slammed one just looks stupid, whereas the normal ride height puts the body into proportion more. I tend to save fantastic pics that really impress me, so here are a few other examples. Low but in proportion Probably a noggin too low for my tastes but the rest more than make up for it So try having the shell a bit higher and not cutting so much out of the sills and wheels arches.

Rubbish. As said above the charger will only pull the power it needs. Problem with using these boosters are: 1/ They mainly use your typical Pb or as they're more commonly known Lead

Great advice there Comps aside, the only thing i will add is that where you drive and what you drive on plays a MASSIVE amount in how much fun your crawler is. If you don't have lots of very difficult technical rocky outcrops to drive on you may well get bored quickly with something like a XR10, as stuff that needs a bit of skill and flare with a scaler a XR10 would just ride straight over like a speed bump at McDonalds. It's the same the other way. I really started to get bored with my Losi Mini rock crawler (MRC) as i could only find either trails on which a scaler would be great or really gnarly rocky sections where the MRC stood no chance. So it might be worth thinking about where your likely to be driving it as comps aside it does make a MASSIVE difference.

As i say the only problems i've had are: Leaky diff - Replace HPI x-rings with o-rings Steering a bit poor - STRC steering link upgrade Motor weak - Mine was the brushed version so you shouldn't have this problem Terrible Esc - As above I've upgraded many things on my Blitz, but to be honest many of those have been pretty much useless. I am a fan of RPM arms though and fit them to most of my RC's, i didn't have any problems with the stock ones though. Great thing about these SCT's is the body takes a massive amount of the damage. I hit a rock with the 2 left wheels of my ERevo and snapped the A-arm, if the ERevo had a shell like the Blitz it would have deflected the hit. The Blitz is RWD though so throwing in a stupid fast motor on 3S is going to lead to frustration more than anything else, as it will struggle to get the power down. For me personally though i enjoy the challenge of RWD, i've tried the rocket fast RC and i tend just to get bored doing fast runs there and back. It's great for the first 5 mins, but after that i personally find the speed thing a bit boring. With a well spec'd motor in a RWD though it's a challenge to get the power down on poor surfaces, so this keep me interested as i try to get the power down earlier in the corner without spinning out. You yourself know what your like. If you want the fastest RC the Blitz is not the RC for you. If on the other hand you want something that needs time and patience to improve then you may well have fun with a Blitz. While your saving i'd also keep an eye open looking for used Blitz's and 4x4 Slash's. I prefer buying used RC's as a/ it saves money and b/ i enjoy stripping them, cleaning them up and reassembling them. The other good thing about buying used is, if you buy say a Blitz and find you don't like rwd as long as you paid a reasonable price for it, you could sell it within 2 months and get most if not all of your money back. You could sell a unboxed RC and loose over

Is it the RTR Blitz they are running or the ESE? What parts are breaking? What maintenance are they doing? Was it stock parts the broke of after market? What were they doing to break the parts? See what i'm getting at? Because you don't own a Blitz your forming an opinion based upon partial information on a very very small percentage of blitz's in 1 environment. I've been running a Blitz for 3 years. It was the car the kids learnt to drive RC with, so as you can imagine it's been driven into pretty much everything from walls to trees. Not much of one for snapping pics, but these pics are from when the car was fairly new, this is the type of abuse it's had on a regular basis for 3 years. I've got no vested interest here, i have driven the Slash 4x4 and i really rate it as a basher, i also have a ERevo so i'm not some HPI fanboi. The Blitz is one of the toughest trucks you can own, this is no surprise any one that's owned one will tell you the same (not including the ESE in this btw). To the op, if you can get a 4x4 Slash for around the same price as a Blitz, i'd go for the 4x4 Slash, simply because it's easier to drive and has more traction on most surfaces. If budget is tight though the Blitz is a tough as nails great basher. Few things that need sorting are: No idea if it's been fixed on the newer models, but on mine the diff leaked like a sieve, so i'd recommend replacing the rubbish HPI X-rings with good old fashioned O-rings. The steering will be fine for bashing but as you get used to the truck, it might be worth going for one of the STRC steering kits. Other than that, drive it, bash the hell out of it and enjoy.

Couldn't disagree more. Had my Blitz for 3 years now, it's been bashed crashed and driven into walls, jumped bumped and banged. In those 3 years of extreme abuse i've not had 1 single failure, nothing. The stock motor and Esc in the old Blitz is rubbish, the diff leaks and needs new O-rings and the steering is great for beginners but a bit poor for experienced drivers. Other than that it's faultless and it gives my mates slash 4x4 a run for it's money on a regular basis. The Slash 4x4 is also a great basher, but you shouldn't comment on things you know absolutely nothing about or have any experience with.

Great start

Does he have full motion in 1 arm? Reason i ask is, i only have the use of 1 arm and can use certain steering wheel type transmitters. Depending on what i'm driving and how delicate i need to be with the controls i throttle with my index finger and steer with my thumb, or i throttle with my middle finger and steer with both my index finger and thumb. I've faffed about with single stick controllers, but find it extremely difficult to retain fine control of the throttle while steering. Some Tx's like the DX3 are a bit of a stretch, others with the wheel further out i am unable to drive with. But the Hitec CRX is a old controller now, so i've managed to buy up several used ones, they also have a removable Tx on the rear so i've upgraded the all to 2.4 as well. Only down side is no mixing, so i still need to find another solution for my rock crawler to run 2 esc's.

Again just my opinion, but you really should stop thinking and looking at stuff that's rated for the road, there is absolutely no correlation between what might work on fast road driving and racing. Even a track day specific parts have little use when racing. Take the E46 M3 as a example. On the road it's a pretty well balanced car and you'd really have to be driving like a knob to show up it's flaws. Within 3 laps on the track though the brakes are pretty much useless. To make matters even worse, most the "fast and furious" type stuff tends to be worse wear and tear wise than the stock stuff. Shocks are a prime example, kids today have this weird idea that the firmer the suspension the faster the car is. Sure it might FEEL faster to a inexperienced kid in his corsa, simply because of the fact that the cars bobbing and weaving all over the place. In reality though the suspension needs to be supple enough to do it's job, it also needs enough travel to do it's job as well. Drop a car to within a inch of it's life with 600lb/in springs and the car will feel like a bumper car simply because it'll be driving around on it's bumpstops. Hit your bumpstops and those 600lb/in springs are suddenly 1600lb/in after the bumpstop adds is compression. There are then things like the materials used in the shocks, even the oil plays a vast difference as when it gets hotter it thins. Thinning shock oil will then give you inconsistent travel. i don't know BMW Mini's well, so can't advise what brands to look at, but you need to be looking at what the various Mini race series are using NOT what "fast and furious" kids are fitting on forums. great tip on both the gauges and the video camera

Any gauges are useless when racing, especially in your first season. I'd honestly just return it to stock and if your really concerned get the biggest brightest light you can and have that come on something goes over temp or over pressure. Even then once the adrenalin is pumping there is a damn good chance you'll just ignore it. I have many many times. My 3rd race on a fully prep'd 2.1 Pinto in the late 80's had the oil pressure idiot light come one, as i was 3rd i refused to pull in, result = no race finish and

Nahhhhh your looking in the wrong places if you can only find

Fantastic stuff I love anything to do with WW2, my granddad fought at both El Alamein and Tobruk, it amazes me how the country had it so tough, but how the vast vast majority of people pulled together for a common cause. I'll do some searching and reading up on The Frythe country house

Not sure where your getting your times from but we've been logging the 997 at late 10's early 11's on a slightly uphill track. Granted the 996 is a noggin slower but still if i didn't get in the 11's i'd be EXTREMELY disappointed. 13 secs for a 996 turbo is monumentally slow, i'm seeing 13.9 in my mx5 as a comparison. The biggest benefit and also it's biggest downfall is rear end grip, if you've not driven a well setup 911 it's difficult to explain exactly how much grip you can find coming out of a corner. On the tight tracks here i am able to hold a fair bit more corner entry speed than my mates 997, but even with that extra corner entry and mid corner speed he just pulls away at corner exit. He is able to get on the power a LOT earlier than me in my MX5, a car that doesn't usually have that problem. That's all by the by, my point was that it's pretty lame posting a pic to big up your driving skill on a non competitive track day IMO. Your already doing far more than the majority of folks do, in that your actually done something to start racing rather than just talk about it, you should be proud of that. My advice would be to save your money and not bother chasing power. A full cage will reduce your laptimes more than an extra 50bhp PLUS you'll be a LOT safer. Right now your biggest let down in lap times, is going to be yourself. I can't recommend strongly enough how getting a full cage will help. It will dramatically stiffen up the car, plus it'll be a LOT safer. After that i'd really recommend investing your money in driver tuition, i'll guarantee that a day with a decent teacher will drop your laptimes a hell of a lot more than even 100 extra horses. Tried my hand at most types of racing, both cars and motorbikes, what i did when usually depended on sponsors and money, but roughly, I started off racing in mini stock's as a kid, moved up to stock car racing/banger cars, saloon car racing in the track, 2 seasons of club rallying, hill climbing and tarmac rally. I paralysed my left arm a few years ago so took a step back since then as i simply don't have the control i had with both arms, so right now it's mainly competing in timed track sessions in the MX5 and helping out my mate in the tarmac rally championship.

My point was that it was only a track day, an event where racing is strictly forbidden. With regards to a Mini being faster than a 911 turbo. I'm sure if you put vettel in the Mini and a 17 year old kid in the 911 it'd be close. Like for like driver skill though there is absolutely no way, it's front wheel drive for a start, the 911 will be on the power and half way up the straight before the Mini has found enough grip to stop it's front wheels scrabbling for grip and that's only if it has a LSD fitted. To give you some idea. Plato managed a fantastic BTCC Snetterton lap record of 1:57 in August. In the Porsche Carrera cup support race they were lapping at 1:52 and these are the non turbo 911's The R56 JCW Class in the Mini challenge were doing 2:11 I've been racing cars and motorbikes for the last 30 years, so i do tend to be a bit cynical about "talk" and people "bigging themselves up". I've heard hundreds of folks go on about how fast they are and how great their cars are, when it comes down to racing and lap times though there is always some excuse. You love cars, good on ya You've made the first step to track days, again good on ya. Don't worry about trying to impress folks, just enjoy, get some tuition and have fun. I'll also say please don't be fooled that a track day is anything at all like even the most civil of race, as if you do you'll be in for a MASSIVE shock. Get yourself a rollcage, harness, electrical isolator, plummed in fire extinguisher, approved seat and the rest of the safety equipment and get racing. If you need any advice gimme a shout

Because we all know a Mini is faster than a 911 turbo and a Ginetta Or could it just be that the 911/Ginetta was doing as they should and not racing on a track day?

I honestly have no idea if your Grandad invented it or not. I do know that the silenced Sten was used from 1943 onwards a whole year before the Normandy landings, so it wasn't much of a rush job. I also know that D-day was actually scheduled for June the 5th, but was cancelled due to bad weather. So not ever Eisenhower the supreme commander of the allied forces knew the invasion would start on June 6th until he saw a weather report late on June the 5th. So it's impossible that your Dad knew weeks in advance as NO ONE knew it would be on the 6th. It's also extremely irresponsible to the point of being treason that your Grandad would tell a 10 year old kid the day of the biggest invasion landings the world has ever seen. A force who's success meant the difference between your grandad speaking German or English and a secret that meant the lives of hundreds of thousands if not million of people. I know i wouldn't trust my 11 year old kids with a secret like that and anyone that would needs locking up. The other thing is: The suppressed Sten gun was only issued to the special operation executive forces (SOE), these forces were troops thatwere carrying out assassination and behind the lines working with local resistance, they were NEVER issued to regular troops. Part of the reason was the expense, the others were that it was useless at anything over 25 yards and it was not really operational on fully Auto as it overheated dramatically, to the point where they came with a canvas cover for the silencer to stop the troops getting severe burns. So even IF he designed it, it made absolutely no sense to have it ready for D-day as after D-day the Nazi's knew were we coming.

Looks like you have 1/10th wheels and tyres on, they look a LOT better with the slightly smaller M series wheels and tyres. Not the best pic but look at the difference on my old shell