Paul Busby

I've also posted in a couple of other places, and contacted a few companies that do/sell shipping container conversions, so far feeling a bit better about the approach we have takenand people seem to think that ventillation and sealing up as best as possible should do the trick.

I've got some vents ordered, I've got a dehumidifier on the way, just need to build myself up a bit to deal with insulation again 🤢

Paul, would maybe be worth posting up on Singletrackworld Forum, there are few guys on there that are seriously into building some amazing sheds/garden offices etc, I think a few were even on Tv with them, a lot of knowledge, so perhaps post your build images and issue,

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/

Thanks AG, good to know there is another resource pool of well schooled folk with some experience. I think with all the places I have posted already and the feedback I've had, I'm going to stop talking and start working. Going to head up there today and start moving my kit out again I think, let the room air out, maybe take a couple more panels down.

Did they copy a WL toys design? Though I'm sure it's most likely the other way round...

@Bert_w164I think it's safe to say that Tekno is not copying WLToys.

200% Agree!! 

....But I've already pre-ordered one.   😭

It looks like that's what they've done.... not quite the same mark up as loo roll like 😆

I've just tested my video camera with an HDMI screen and I reckon this could work quite well after fiddling with the settings. Already got a little tripod, kind of annoyed I didn't think of this earlier!

Jobs a good'un, disaster averted.

Assuming the capture card arrives in time!

Who knows right now...

😑

Ask the local post offices too. I once had a hpi kit from Germany say the same I asked the main post office but wasnt there. Then tracked it down to the back of town back street post office 30min walk using Google maps lol  but got it. 

I got it all now mate, it was as A.J said, customs charges

The whole purpose of me doing this is to make sure when I progress passed 1 piece bumpers into more complex and potentionally more durable parts, I can be sure that things actually fit the models.

I don't exactly know if what I'm doing is the most efficient approach, but I am taking it seriously.

Can you tell what I'm working on?

Looks like the front of a chassis kickup, i like that

It certainly is, guess the brand

Clue number 2

Or make it a mouth with snarling teeth?

Maybe I'll do something like that when i have an XXXTREEEMMMEEE product range 😃

Possibly I was just trying to do too much detail, how's this:

I like it. 

I don't think there's actual binning involved. At the very least, i'd be very surprised. 

I personally think it's luck of the draw. You can get lucky, but chances are that you're not, in which case you buy a second one - and then you're at the price of one reasonably priced decent one. At least that's my thought behind my purchases - i've bought twice too often, and over time that results in really not that great a saving by going as cheap as possible. 

I just checked, a WP-SC8 on ebay can be had for £45 as well. Brand new. And i haven't even checked faceballs marketplace for used stuff (that'd be my first stop). But, again: each to his own, i don't "judge" - i just don't share the view that the cheapest part is the best part. Even if you want to save money.

I think between all the budget/unbranded stuff it definitely is luck of the draw because of the lack of QC.

That's just fact, if only 1 out of 10 gets actually tested, then potentially 9 out of 10 could be bad.

If 9 out of 10 are tested, then only 1 can be bad.

Note for future reference, RCmart is generally one of the best places for electrics.

Hobbywing stuff is also quite often on free shipping too.

Provided you don't mind waiting an extra few days, orders from there are usually here withina  week, 10 days at the very most.

My experiences with RC Mart so far have been stellar to be fair!

I'm not sure i'd want to be keeping one in the house personally, the racket they make is pretty unbearable!

Sorry to butt in but I've also been looking at this kinda stuff.

I had a cheapy £50 one years ago that came with an airbrush and some paints, I thought it would be good for painting Airfix and RC bodies, turned out to be crap, wrong kind of paint and airbrush really, but didn't bother researching.

Instead of starting a new status/thread, is anyone using a budget friendly set up that works for RC bodies etc... ?

I don't mind a minute or two of spraying then letting the air compressor kick in, if it means saving some space and it being a bit cheaper.

And also what paint people are using?

@Oh How Original  anything tamiya, or anything acrylic from greenstuffworld for paints

Congrats Paul !!!

Well done and congrats @Paul Busby . Great way to start 2021. 

Just need to resist the urge to buy an LMT until I have actually got an offer

That Matt Lucas impression of Boris is brilliant.  

Stay safe Paul. 👍

Thanks guys,

it’s pretty stressful to be honest. One thing is very clear.... the UK was not built for social distancing, both physically and culturally. It’s just not going to work, and there is no way around that.

That's true. 😐 

You can get additional axis heads that bolt onto the bed of the machine, this will give you some 5axis features however you'll still have a spindle that will only move in the z axis so not true 5 axis. 

Not at all mate, there's some decent sub £1000 basic CNC machines out there. If your good at CAD the programming parts shouldn't be too hard. Just give yourself a extra couple of hundred quid to buy tooling, I think Autodesk fusion offers a program writing add on. 

We use alphacam where i work, which integrates well with the machines own software suite. Seems pretty powerful

@Darren FrostyI have a Qidi X Max which has an enclosure. With the more engineering grade filaments, you have to preheat the enclosure to get the temps up to a consistent level. I then have to swap out for the high temp extruder which has a hardened steel nozzle and a PEEK tube, as PTFE tube shouldn't be used over 250c and we're going to be running at 260-300c, depending on the polycarbonate brand. Pure polycarbonate should need to be at the higher end of that scale, but pure polycarbonate is also much much much more difficult to print without the edges warping and peeling up. You also have to have the bed temp... basically as high as it will go, so around 100-120c on mine, from memory. You also need to be as level and flat as you can possibly be.

Polycarbonate is SUPER rigid when you making a thick object though. It's technically much tougher than nylon in almost every metric, but nylon has a bit more flex and will bend, rather than shatter. I've always preferred the results.

It's still tough to print, but there is a couple of brands that make stuff that has much less requirement for enclosure and constant temperature conditions.

I have learned/developed a couple of tricks from being on a few facebook groups as to how to improve prints. For example, glass bed with a thin wash of PVA glue helps with almost all filaments and putting a brim on the print, then deburring afterwards.

Feel free to ping me a message if you want to chat about it... im not an expert exactly, but I am a total research nerd and happy to help.

that's a beast of a printer. Back when fidget spinners were a thing I ran 2 wanhao i3's and a prusa knocking out the damn things as fast as they could print. Made a few quid doing it too, but it was **** easy compared to what you're doing.

See that's sensible though mate... I'm not doing (many) things sensibly 😄

I'm watching a few second hand GTX 750 Ti on ebay... seem to be old enough that they're still cheap, but would be good enough to play some more basic and old titles

My brother in law has a couple of XFX Radeon HD6850 GPUS lying around. One is the higher-clocked Black Edition.

Severely long in the tooth, but you can have them for very little. I'll see what he wants for them, if you're interested.

Your GTX 750 Ti is better, though!

Guess I’m going to need more batteries 😫

Mate, you do you: i just presented what i personally would do. I just bought an 8s RC, my next one probably will be something 4s as well, got enough packs now.

I was planning to have to do that anyway.

i really want to be able to “drive” this more than the Kraton given it’s pedigree and reputation, whereas the Kraton I’m happy to launch it on my local field, nose drive it, and have to pull it apart again.

I think perhaps 4s, maybe even try sensored. Might try a good quality sensored motor, and a cheapo thrashing motor for 6, then a couple of pinions and see how it works out.

Ohhh, I know they do spit flames, people just said they don't because it was Kev... I'm not his biggest fan but the video doesn't lie.

It does beg the question, just how much testing went into these ESCs before bringing them to market.

agree with Nitroholic and dan  seen it happen on a HPI 6s esc my mates savage flipped in wood lands and started smoking he tried taking the shell off to remove the plugs and flame on !! luckily he had a harden shell at the time or could of been alot worst

@Redback - The modes available are Sensored only, Smart Sensor, and Brushed. Smart sensor will detect if you have a sensor or not, and that's the one Kev was using when his went up. Not sure about this guy, but I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and presume that he's using smart sensor.

My Typhon 6s was sitting outside the front door for six hours, in the open. Got delivered at 8ish, didn't get any notification, didn't ring/knock (i was awake and refreshing the DPD page every 30 seconds because i'm childishly excited), found the RC then in front of the door when we wanted to leave for shopping at 2ish. 

It's not just Parcelforce that sucks in this.

I didn't even get a card. I don't even think they loaded it onto a van, I think they just decided to not send it out yesterday and clicked the button on the system to say that it was by my request.

Thing is, I don't mind if they don't get it sorted and shipped on time due to a backlog, if they just admit this is the situation. When the tracking says, "customer requested xyz" is when my back gets up.

I presume this is to try and avoid refunds on the postage cost due to not meeting the delivery target, so I might talk to RPRC and find out if I can fight them to get my £3.99 back out of pure spite for the lie 😂

The package is on the map today though, so perhaps they will actually deliver it.

Paul...no...they NEVER tryed to deliver. The scan shows you requesting later delivery..... 'addressee requested later delivery'

Contact the supplier, and give them the story and turn the screws. Tell them this:

What has happened is the depot have not put it on the van. Probably had a driver go sick ( it's Easter...with a couple of short weeks, and holiday is in demand. Folks dont get the time off...go sick) then, rather than show the failure....they have scanned it to make it look like you requested it, so the depot figures look better. Probably did it to hundreds of items. The item never moved, and you never requested a delivery...in fact...you took the day off to wait in JUST for this item as it was due.

If a delivery was 'attempted' you would see that.

How do I know this? Simple....I worked for Parcelforce for 27 years. Took redundancy this March. There isn't a trick I don't know 😉

Have you seen the bashers n crashers group...? 

It's a great group tbf... But some of the the members make me wonder how the op survived until the point they made the post

Sounds like a riot 😄

I don't know why I do it to myself, but I requested to join.

Here's some recent, there's much much worse ones I never caught 

watts is just outcome of amps x voltage so TP power specifies it as what motor is capable of in terms of power but besides their weird marking which doesn't mean much their calculation is also confusing 

I would like one too black/gold would suit my truck so well that's the main reason I want one lol. But also because they are rated so highly. But I have no idea which one I should order for a MT 4-6s I was thinking the 1800kv. 

It has a hw 2200kv right now but I'm hoping the TP would be a considerable step up from that but I dont know then the price comes into play and i carry on umming and arring. 

@RCbutcher - I'm not super familiar with that truck, but I would have thought somewhere around 1800 would good if you get a longer can and a slightly bigger pinion. You can make it kind of like driving 4s in terms of actually being able to get the power down, but more efficient and with a big more torque when needed.

Naaa, lol, I love a good build thread, especially when it’s for model I’ve not really seen before 

Bit late for that now haha

you are going to have to take it apart put it back in all the bags, tape the bags back up and start again or AJ will ban you 

What did you run it in? I run a SkyRC combo in both of my Laydowns, never failed me... It's definitely expensive if you buy it from the UK though. I always import it from HK at half the cost!

8.5t motor in an ET410 with a 17t pinion. Very lazy set-up, shouldn't have been any issues for it.

I had the 120a ESC in my b6 and was great. Maybe you got a duff one? 

Chassis probably a bit too big for this machine, but the other things perhaps yeah.

If you have ideas or requests, I'm more than happy to have a think about it.

Motor mounts with easily removable motors for easier pinion changes could be a reasonably easy thing to make, ...like what Arrma have done for the V4 motor mount on their 6S cars.  

Lower profile shock towers or ones with a lot more mounting holes for increased amount of suspension tuneability & shock options. 

Just a coupe of ideas there for you ~ nothing necessarily model specific but knowing how popular Arrma is that maybe a good brand to start with. 
Also Tamiya.
I'm in a few Tamiya groups on FB and they'll spend silly money on them as who doesn't like a good "Hop Up" part. 😁 With most Tamiya's being plastic/ABS etc then anything that could be redone or re-engineered in aluminium or carbon fibre would sell I'm sure. 

Motor mounts are not easy mate, that's a pretty advanced part!

I'm only getting a 3 axis machine as well so it would take significant level of jigging.

Otherwise, All the other idea's im down for... may hve to invest in some tamiyas

Yup, XT90 in my entire fleet. That said: the DBXL-E came with these new IC5 connectors, they are so lovely to disconnect due to nice "grippy" parts. My only gripe with XT90, sometimes you need a crowbar to take them apart. 

Deans are the absolute worst connector. Not a fan of them at all.

XT90's on my whole fleet..😉 except my new Typhon it's still running IC5/EC5 mix..🤔

The feedback section is purposely too short as well, eBay don't want negative feedback, as it pushes more people towards other places.

Gotta say, I always hated Amazon, but recently started using it and stock isn't great for RC stuff but returns are free and fast and the option of Prime.

Way better than eBay in that respect.

that sucks paul had this done to me a while ago too  just avoided the seller in the future rather my cash goes somewhere else etc

agree dan i get what i can from amazon now most of my parts and lipos are bought there now and selling wise id rather use gumtree

Out of principle, I bought from elsewhere, even though it cost more money.

I don't usually squabble over a few quid and if they had messaged me and explained why I wouldn't even have been upset.

Seems like this is a pretty good "out the box" solution, even if it is a little higher KV

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/310275/

I’m pretty sure they did that combo with a 17.5t, but if not it will definitely work 👌 

Yeah the wecsite shows a 17.5... ill keep looking to see if i can find it anywhere

Edit - Ordered one

I've taken many things apart, but not a Dremel yet, sorry. I watched AvE take all kinds of stuff apart and puzzle it back together, as most hobbyist tools go. 

But that's my point. It either goes to the landfill directly or you take it apart. I don't see why a simple tool like a rotary wouldn't go back together, though. 

Looking at the diagram, they sell interior  parts, so it's supposed to be fixable. You just need to figure out which parts are rounded off, shouldn't be hard. 

Half blind using a Dremel not a good combination, by the sounds of it a broken Dremel was the least of your worriers 

I love AVE, but he does give you a false sense of confidence with these things... well me anyway. I tried to fix my cheap electric driver and all the bearings fell out, I put them in the best I could but it makes a funny noise now.

Took the Dremel apart and it wasnt too bad. Just gotta make sure you take the correct side off first (the one with the various bits of safety and certification info on) and then keep an eye on the brush holders, as they're a bit silly and ping out. Total cost of repair = basically £0.00

The cause of the issue was as I expected, the chuck button was worn, so I'm pretty sure that what I think happened, is what happened. It didn't actually wear it down completely though, the return spring had actually worked its way ito the plastic preventing the full action of the button.

I just added a 5x8 shim under the spring, and that shouldn't ever happen again.

Bearings were all fine, only slight discolour on the windings. The brushes and the stator are looking a tiny bit suspect... but they're ok.

It's not running as good as it used to, but it runs.