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Status Updates posted by Paul Busby
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And today on Facebook RC groups we have:
Question - Why do people buy the Max 8 over the Max 6
Answer - Buy the XLX2, don't waste money on Hobbywing. 🤨 -
Feels like I have a problem, sneaking off from my family saying to myself, "just one more bag".
Currently doing "bag K" 😄
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Absolute liars 😠
Been in all day, I have a doorbell and a dog, no way I miss a delivery, especially at 10:50
No Tekno for me today then
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My Typhon 6s was sitting outside the front door for six hours, in the open. Got delivered at 8ish, didn't get any notification, didn't ring/knock (i was awake and refreshing the DPD page every 30 seconds because i'm childishly excited), found the RC then in front of the door when we wanted to leave for shopping at 2ish.
It's not just Parcelforce that sucks in this.
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I didn't even get a card. I don't even think they loaded it onto a van, I think they just decided to not send it out yesterday and clicked the button on the system to say that it was by my request.
Thing is, I don't mind if they don't get it sorted and shipped on time due to a backlog, if they just admit this is the situation. When the tracking says, "customer requested xyz" is when my back gets up.
I presume this is to try and avoid refunds on the postage cost due to not meeting the delivery target, so I might talk to RPRC and find out if I can fight them to get my £3.99 back out of pure spite for the lie 😂
The package is on the map today though, so perhaps they will actually deliver it.
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Paul...no...they NEVER tryed to deliver. The scan shows you requesting later delivery..... 'addressee requested later delivery'
Contact the supplier, and give them the story and turn the screws. Tell them this:
What has happened is the depot have not put it on the van. Probably had a driver go sick ( it's Easter...with a couple of short weeks, and holiday is in demand. Folks dont get the time off...go sick) then, rather than show the failure....they have scanned it to make it look like you requested it, so the depot figures look better. Probably did it to hundreds of items. The item never moved, and you never requested a delivery...in fact...you took the day off to wait in JUST for this item as it was due.
If a delivery was 'attempted' you would see that.
How do I know this? Simple....I worked for Parcelforce for 27 years. Took redundancy this March. There isn't a trick I don't know 😉
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Bit of a strange one, perhaps, but can anyone recommend me some top dog danglies scissors?
Not Lexan scissors, just every day straight edge cutting things scissors. I've had a few pairs over the years and wondering if I should replace my now blunt set of cheapos with some half decent ones. The last half decent ones I got are a bit pap.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fiskars-Classic-Dressmaking-Scissors-Length/dp/B0001P08L0
These are good but any you can unscrew to sharpen will last a while.
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Some of the most recent LOL comments on Arrma facebook. I've seen it a few times recently so I'm paraphrasing, but it usualy goes something like:
"I put a spool in the back of my kraton and now it turns like a barge" -
New Tekno ET48 2.0 has to be the UGLIEST RC I have ever seen.... but I love it 😄
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@Bert_w164I think it's safe to say that Tekno is not copying WLToys.
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First day back on the 9-5 😭
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I was broke before I broke my ET410 and now I'm triple broke.
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@turok007RPRC Distribution are the dealer in the UK. Top guys, really nice to deal with and very knowledgable if you need some assistance deciding/understanding what you're buying.
@.AJ. Yeah you can perhaps see why I decided to print the part that I lost from the centre diff mount. Don't think I can get away with printing an Arm... although that doesn't excuse me buying all the carbon fibre upgrade parts that just emptied my account. 🤪
Definitely could have designed and printed some of those... but the Enduro is getting my attention at the moment.
It's just a good thing that, in the most part, their parts are very durable and don't break much. The accident that took out the arm on my ET would have taken out any RC car... I was going full pelt, probably 40+ MPH and a wheel hit a breezeblock....
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So I've decided to buidl a trail truck this summer and I've started out with the body... Power Wagon.
Next up... need to choose a kit. Right now im looking at the Axial SCX II. Anyone want to tell me that it's the wrong/right way to go?
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After months of living on scraps in terms of freelance work... I think I may have landed a job.
Will be sad to say goodbye to the freelance world, but right now the world is just not set up for it.
It's a pretty good role at a company that has a lot of room for growth so there are big reasons to be happy looking forwards.- Show previous comments 7 more
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Well done and congrats @Paul Busby . Great way to start 2021.
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Don't suppose anyone out there has an old graphics card sitting around that they don't need, at least new enough that it still has driver support?
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@Darren FrostyI have a Qidi X Max which has an enclosure. With the more engineering grade filaments, you have to preheat the enclosure to get the temps up to a consistent level. I then have to swap out for the high temp extruder which has a hardened steel nozzle and a PEEK tube, as PTFE tube shouldn't be used over 250c and we're going to be running at 260-300c, depending on the polycarbonate brand. Pure polycarbonate should need to be at the higher end of that scale, but pure polycarbonate is also much much much more difficult to print without the edges warping and peeling up. You also have to have the bed temp... basically as high as it will go, so around 100-120c on mine, from memory. You also need to be as level and flat as you can possibly be.
Polycarbonate is SUPER rigid when you making a thick object though. It's technically much tougher than nylon in almost every metric, but nylon has a bit more flex and will bend, rather than shatter. I've always preferred the results.
It's still tough to print, but there is a couple of brands that make stuff that has much less requirement for enclosure and constant temperature conditions.
I have learned/developed a couple of tricks from being on a few facebook groups as to how to improve prints. For example, glass bed with a thin wash of PVA glue helps with almost all filaments and putting a brim on the print, then deburring afterwards.
Feel free to ping me a message if you want to chat about it... im not an expert exactly, but I am a total research nerd and happy to help.
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And the self-combusting XLX2 saga continues....
This guy didn't look to be doing anything at all wrong.- Show previous comments 6 more
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@Redback - The modes available are Sensored only, Smart Sensor, and Brushed. Smart sensor will detect if you have a sensor or not, and that's the one Kev was using when his went up. Not sure about this guy, but I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and presume that he's using smart sensor.
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About to start a 30 hour 3D print, my longest and biggest yet... wish me luck!
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Happy New Year everyone!
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Serious, serious condensation issue at the workshop
Took a few ceiling boards down, took the insulation off and a pool of water dripped down into the workshop.
Was just about to assemble the CNC router... I was basically done... I'm broken lads, absolutely broken.- Show previous comments 18 more
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I've also posted in a couple of other places, and contacted a few companies that do/sell shipping container conversions, so far feeling a bit better about the approach we have takenand people seem to think that ventillation and sealing up as best as possible should do the trick.
I've got some vents ordered, I've got a dehumidifier on the way, just need to build myself up a bit to deal with insulation again 🤢
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Paul, would maybe be worth posting up on Singletrackworld Forum, there are few guys on there that are seriously into building some amazing sheds/garden offices etc, I think a few were even on Tv with them, a lot of knowledge, so perhaps post your build images and issue,
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Thanks AG, good to know there is another resource pool of well schooled folk with some experience. I think with all the places I have posted already and the feedback I've had, I'm going to stop talking and start working. Going to head up there today and start moving my kit out again I think, let the room air out, maybe take a couple more panels down.
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What is the point in a red card from RM asking me to re-arrange the collection rather than going to a depo if the reference number is completely illegible?
Is it a 7, or a 2?
Is it an S or a 5?
Is it a B or an 8?
is it a 4 or a G?
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Finally updated the workshop build thread... hope you guys like blurry photos of insulation board 😂
https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/244219-hambleton-hobby-workshop-build/
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Made BIG workshop progress today. Forgot to take pictures at the end of the day, but will definitely update my build thread later this week 👍
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If anyone is looking for aftermarket Arrma parts that are super tough, David at Scorched parts looks to have just got some stock in from his finishers.
I've had great experience dealing with the company and would highly recommend the upgrades... be quick though... he sells out fast.
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I need to take the ET410.2 out with the missus so I have a cameraman. Properly epic fun. Thing drives beautifully and flys through the air like it has wings. So well balanced, even if I have stuck a 3660 can in there and relocated the radio.
I reckon it could easily take 3s. -
Looks like My SkyRC TS160 wasnt as dependable as the TS150A... I only ran it once, and during that run it started having issues. After that the sensor cable stopped working and it drove like it had square wheels. Took the thing apart and there is clearly some components gone poof
Buy cheap buy twice... -
My Tamiya TC-01 is my first "road" RC car, I have no desire to turn it into an uber speed machine, I don't think that's really what it's designed for, but can anyone let me know roughly what KV/Turn 540 can I should aim for in these kind of cars?
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Seems like this is a pretty good "out the box" solution, even if it is a little higher KV
https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/310275/
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Oh Damnit!!!!
I just finished the main part of the ET410 build, when to put the wheels on it to get a baseline for calibrating the ESC and the Schumacher truggy wheels don't fit due to some stupid extended plastic bracing on the inside of the wheel
Gotta order more wheels 😖