Leaderboard

I saw this posted yesterday in a Facebook group

Hi guys. So far we have 2 confirmed events happening this year First event is our first ever 3 day meetup, 22nd to 24th june. Second planned event is a 2 day meet, 17th to 18th august. These events are always an insane amount of fun, the fastest official cars in the UK all in one place. Its awesome to see rc's going sooo quickly, so spectators are more than welcome (for free) If you fancy competing or coming down to have a look, please visit out facebook page HERE Can also take a look at our youtube for a few vids HERE Cheers guys?

Hey guys, didn't know if to create new thread or hack someone's else existing SSTE thread so if mods decide to glue it with other thread I'm perfectly fine here I'd like to share experience with Hobao SSTe (latest revision) rolling chassis and mods applied with list of parts used, this should be applicable to RTR as well but first of all some intro... After weeks spent on forums and youtube reading and looking at user experience with RTR 1:8 scale versions of currently available truggies I found that all of them have some flaws, smaller or bigger but always something, combined with compromised electronics (usually cheap servos and radios) I decided to go ARR kit so that I can build it my way with my parts... Went through internet and looked at several kits from Tekno, Mugen, X-ray, Serpent, Losi, Hobbyking and Hobao, nearly bought BSR Berserker (Hobbyking) for 200 EUR as price/performance ratio looked perfect but than I came across their forum and revealed that most of the critical spare parts are always on backorder and waiting for months to get them is nothing unusual, secondly several people were complaining about steering issues so decided to look elsewhere. Next in price range tree was Hobao Hyper SSTe, checked forums and YT videos for user experience and found that most of them are pretty negative, below video sums up why Wasn't happy at all especially considering all the other brands costing double or triple (600-800 EUR) I had to do deeper search of what's going on, why 10 years old PRO version was so good and still capable of keep up with best on the market and electric version so bad, looking at their actual manual and part list suggested that in 2017 Hobao made significant upgrade and most of above mentioned supposed to be fixed with latest revision, unfortunately (not sure if caused by bad reputation) I couldn't found enough reviews of their latest ARR model but according to review from Vas of the RTR version (over here) I took a risk and ordered it to find out myself, for 260 EUR delivered I knew I can fix remaining issues with either upgraded parts Hobao selling separately or from third party providers or other brands as many of them sharing similar concept and dimensions of their parts... so below some pictures, as you can see lower arms are beefier with more robust construction and nearly no flex (similar to the old PRO version) , looks like beefier front drive shafts so hopefully less prone to bending and few bits and pieces, it looks like Hobao listened to user complains and addressed most of the problems, is it perfect? nope, but I didn't expect I will get Tekno quality for 260 EUR, instead solid base for further improvements... with spare parts usually available either from local dealers or directly from Hobao (I tried both and it worked well with lead time between 3 to 5 days) In order of importance here are my suggested mods/hop-ups (I plan to do) : 1. First of all shock springs, as mentioned in other thread these needs to be changed for something harder, BSR Berserker or Hobao MT springs works fine 2. Next is shimming, as mentioned in first video above there are places where shimming is necessary, C-hubs, steering knuckles, servo saver, back shocks touching the lower arms, wheel hubs touching knuckles and finally all 3 diffs (as pointed out by Vas as well) 3. Aluminium chassis stiffeners, there is still some slight flexing from back part of the chassis which could cause center rear shaft to bend (in case of hard bashing) 4. shock and diff oil, here we have basic set up with pretty low viscosity like in many RTR versions so change of the oil with higher viscosity is more than welcome 5. wheels, seems to be improved version but I will use aftermarket anyway 6. camber and toe adjustment, as Vas said this needs to be done but I take it as standard in case of kit or ARR so no issue for me 7. Pro aluminium shock towers, to prevent bending 8. Aluminium C-Hubs, to improve strength of the arms 9. Universal center drive shaft set 10. Rear CVD shafts 11. Pro spider diffs + shimming, if you plan to use/run higher power/torque set, in my case between 3.5 - 4.2Kwatts 12. New battery tray (requires drilling new holes) 13. will follow hop-up parts list: 1. Hobbyking 9655000108-0, 9655000105-0, or 9655000109-0 and 9655000195-0 , Hobao 94073 2. Nylon washers for chassis parts, from china here 2. Shims from Modelsport, for wheel hubs ANSSM0812-0102, for diffs 86972 and CR442, for diff bearing ANSSM0812-0102, for servo safer CR449 3. Hobao OP-0050 4. up to individuals, I will use front shocks 550-600cst, back shocks 650-1000cst, front/center/rear diff 75K/100K/30K cst 5. BS502-001 for start 7. Hobao 86201+86202 and 86212 8. Hobao OP-0120 and 89147 9. Hobao OP-0030 10. Hobao OP-0059 11. Hobao 87343 and 87344 + CR457 12. Losi LOSA4461 General part list: 1. ECS - Hobbywing EZRUN Max8 V3 150A 2. Servo - JX CLS5830HV 3. Motor - X-TEAM XTI-40 4-Poles Inrunner 2000KV and SSS 4092 / 2140KV additional cost for first 2 critical items is between 25-45 EUR depends on what you buy (+ your time) , third one alone cost 50 EUR, cost of oil vary per brand but I assume most of us have those types anyway none of above is required to get us use it as is but I highly recommend it from longer reliability perspective

Super Rock Rey, hands down. For a start, it's not a Traxxarse. Furthermore, it's based on the Super Baja Rey, which is a far bigger, stronger platform than the UDR. Traxxas themselves included a little note on the UDR, stating "it's not to be jumped hard", or something like that, I can't remember. Whereas the Losi adverts all encourage hard abuse. That makes me wonder... Considering Traxxas advertised the mk1 X-Maxx as being stupidly tough, only for it to have chronic and very critical weaknesses... I wouldn't want to find out just how sensitive their "please don't jump this hard" truck is, especially given the ridiculous price point. Honestly though, I don't think either are fantastic choices. Too close to 5th scale money and way more delicate and heavy than something like an Arrma Outcast.

@imyimyimy786 Welcome to the forum! What's a discord channel?

Following. I've just bought another SSTe myself..... missed the old one purely for cosmetics My information is the new version has stronger arms - thus reducing the incidences of the shafts bending - afaik the shafts themselves are identical.

If there was any thread on the ends of those shock shafts, they've snapped clean off. Unless it's just my eyes deceiving me. You can try measuring them and finding some that fit, but that probably won't be easy. That's always the risk with cheap shocks, poor parts availability.

Lost a couple screws on my Vantage/Vandal and stripped a spur gear. I have to say that the spur was holding up very well. The front diff/top brace seems to take a major beating so I simply zip tied a piece of aluminum tube across the top brace to help with the flex. It was flexing and pulling the screws out of the top diff casing. The idea of making a brace across the shock towers is a good one IMO. Flex is good on certain parts but IMO this brand has too much flex in the middle causing screws to pull out and leaving it up to the bottom chassis to brace everything and causing it to break(happened to me right down the middle). After the mod I spent all day running with the 1/8 buggies at my local track and makes other 1/10 Short Course trucks look silly. I run on 3s at the track for the extra power to correct attitude in air and make easy jumps.. Other than on the straights the 3s doesn't really make any real difference in laptimes. My race mod suggestions. I'm sure it's been covered but it's almost up to 200 pages now. Short course/truck bumper from Carnage/desert fox Make a top brace or upgrade to a stiffer one. stock Upper plate Upgraded plate I personally would just reinforce the stock plate. Get creative but a carbon fiber tube and zip ties will do the trick. You can get solid carbon fiber rods at your local hobby shop or online for dirt cheap. Taller gearing. I run a 21t pinion but that's a bit much for 3s. 19t would be good for 3s if you keep it within reason. 45w shock oil/remove preload completely/add if needed The shock shafts are prone to bend. If you remove them, heat them up and quench them in water they wont bend anymore. The hotter the better. Better tires(I run generic amazon tires for dirt cheap) Amazon tires Stock servo is passable but of course digital metal gear servo's are better. I upgraded to a cheap digital chinese one for under $20. Consider ordering a H-king Vantage roller for under €70 and strip it down for backup parts. I don't think the carbon fiber shock tower or aluminum arms is needed and since i've fitted the different bumper i've not broken another arm.

Yeah... First run. In-fact, the very first application of throttle!! Not even a powerful truck, 3500kv, 2s. Utterly useless. Serves me right, I suppose. Buy cheap, buy... never ever again! Can anyone recommend me some well-priced (this is an FTX Outlaw, afterall) MT wheels, that will fit straight on? Just looking to increase track width over the standard wheels. These HPI wheels are currently winning. Anyone know the width? As I'd like to use the tyres I have. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-6-shot-mt-wheel-black-2pcs-/rc-car-products/395023

If you dont mind used I have a set of hpi deep dish wheels with proline masher tyres very wide and tall should suit outlaw, no need for them now as sold monster truck ages ago

I would put the silica gel inside the kit boxes personally..??

Nokia 3310

From left to right, TT-01E chassis kit, TA-02S/SW chassis kit and a Porsche 934 Vaillant body set

This! Arrived yesterday tho, been fitting a light kit and checking it over, so far I’m really impresssed ?

hi i have the AR 21 engine in mine, in the manual for the factory setting for the engine is:- HSN - 4 turns from closed LSN - 3.5 turns from closed IDLE - 2 mm gap

These settings apply for the HN .28, .32 and .36 engines.