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Sorry its been a while. I don't think it was originally meant to be a scam I just think after hermes dicided to destroy it he dicided I wasn't getting a refund. (even though hermes refunded him). Since the start of all my problems I have been watching his ebay feedback and he keeps getting negative feedback but then the next day it has gone. So I will name him on here but if Im asked to take it down I will. seller:price-suppliers

After announcing they've overcome internal difficulties once again earlier this year... Hong nor have slammed it out the park with the latest X3 incarnation!!! Hong Nor have introduced the new 2019 X3 GTS 1/8 nitro GT kit. The X3 GTS features an aluminum 7075 CNC lightweight chassis stiffened by front and rear aluminum CNC chassis braces. The GT car uses numerous aluminium parts such as 6 degree C hubs, rear hubs FF/RR suspension brackets and aluminium posts for the 150cc fuel tank. The X3 GTS has complete driveshafts with center joint cups in aluminium while the transmission uses sealed differentials M0.8 drive system with CNC machined hardened 43 tooth bevel gear and 13 tooth pinion gears. The aluminum 3-shoe clutch comes with an aluminum clutch gear to provide quicker response. The aluminum brake caliper set uses aluminum CNC brake discs to povide less fading during a run. The 2019 X3 GTS features 16mm big bore shocks with high hardened steel shock springs attached on 4mm front and rear carbon fibre shock towers. The car features also an enhanced servo saver spring, front and rear sway bars, a large foam bumper, big rear diffuser and rear body fasten set It should be in stock by the end of the year in kit form. View full news article

Coming soon! View full news article

The SSD HD D60 axle is a lovely bit of kit for not a lot of money, I also saw on another forum that SSD have just released a alloy truss for it. I do recommend the optional wide axle kit, so you don’t have to run the stupid offset hubs anymore ?

Exactly not trying to tell you what to do, I was the same as you when I first started off properly in the hobby, then I soon realised it really made no difference to how the cars drove, as long as the bearings are good, nothings binding... Bash on

True. Considering most of us bash the crap out of them it's fairly trivial!

Got it planned in but watching the weather! Was a good target to get all the rigs finished and ready though! I guess you're going? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Cheers Wabom, might venture up there. Not far from Devon [emoji106] Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Having a frustrating time with the yeti at the moment the rear wheel nuts keep coming loose, I've tried new nuts with aggressive toothed flange, genuine axial wheel nuts to no avail. The nylock washer insert is acting on the thread of the drive shaft so it's not that. The only conclusion I can come up with is that when fitting the beef tubes I had to grind of the inner flange of the drive shafts and to stop them sliding side to side I fitted a small length of old drive shaft between them inside the diff, I think this set up is generating heat transmitting it allong the shafts and causing the wheel nuts to loosen. So to cut a long story short I've ordered the ssd centre pumpkin back axle from rc mart inspired by A.J. and his build!

Looks ace, good for crawling there? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Jamil, does it go faster in reverse?

Fitted new motor and mount to Tamiya TNX, now have proper adjustability for pinion changing

looks great so far mate, bonus that the diffs fine inside an all, get yourself a few spare diff seals though, the big square one , they tend to swell and can usually only be used the once, there cheap enough to buy though, baja diffs being almost empty of oil is a common thing as well, it just seems to disappear lol, I think it just slowly leaks away between the bearings and the cup shafts to be honest when it gets hot then cools multiple times, diff oil weight is a personal choice mate, a lot of people use 10,000 weight and are happy with it, I use thicker, I think my baja currently has around the 60,000 weight mark in it, all down to how stiff ya want the diff though,

Not according to the guy 2nd from right, front row, fifth pic from the end...

Started the suzi link for my Scania using plasticard and some old shock parts The found some old boat parts balsa and clips I’ve had in my scratch bin. One for the auxiliary unit and one for the trailer. The suzi leads are from springy key chains. Button hole flanges stuck on the end of the suzi hoses. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have been hard at it today. I have completely striped the baja, degreased/cleaned it and have started to put what I can back together. I must of taken out a fields worth of grass out of it ? Even the diff didn't have hardly any oil in it, the gears are fine at least. What weight diff oil do you recommend for a Baja? I have got some 50,000 weight Traxxas diff oil already. Here are some photos so far. I can't really afford anything at the moment so it will be a longer project for me.

I use the .6 mod rw racing pinions on modelsport.

Love that part of the country. We stayed at Cheddar Spa site for a week back in August and loved it

Drove the Dirty Dog hard at Cheddar Gorge?

Here's one of my (not so) little toys. 1997 Chevy Suburban, I fitted a 7 inch lift and 315/75/16 (approx 35" diameter) tyres. Powered by a small block 5.7 V8 and it's a barrel load of fun. Seats 8 in comfort and still has a massive boot. Or if you lay the seats flat, you can put 8x4 sheets in the back Does 16mpg on a run if you are gentle with your right foot....

if it was me i'd rebuild the car itself, new bearings/screws and remove anything I didn't like and replace with what I wanted, in other words make it your own mate, as for the engine, well price all the parts up first, crank bearings/seals/ new flywheel/ piston and ring or complete top end / carb rebuild kit etc etc, then see what that comes to, if its gonna be really expensive then weigh up if its gonna be worth the engine rebuild or whether theres an engine out there that takes yer fancy, sounds like the cars had a fairly hard life if gearbox gears have teeth missing and cups are trashed etc, 1/5 scales are money pits mate, but well worth the cost in my opinion, plus a full rebuild will give you the confidence to work on it yourself and also you will find out the best/easiest way it comes apart and goes back together, carbon on piston top is normal as well, it just shows its been run a bit, always use a decent 2stroke oil as well, anything with chainsaw written on the bottle is a no no, rc engines rev a lot higher than yer average weedwacker engine and need the protection of a good oil, castrol racing / motul/ rock oil race oil or something similar is what you need,

So with the body work done, with a few holes drilled for future lighting, a coat of primer and then an airbrushed top coat-several thin layers of a custom Humbrol mix .... And then starting to look more like a lorry And some weathering Still a few things to do.

Remove the front wheel. Just pull the tyre off the rim. Crimp a run of lead tape around that centre rib either side and spot dab with TC tyre glue. Refit tyre snugly. Spot dab same. On the Either side of the spokes is a useful part of the 'inner rim'where you can park another run around with lead tape and spot dab glue. Takes time (usually does) but pays off in better directional stability, esp. with wick motors.

Everyone does

Glad to hear you're getting sorted.

The staff couldn’t careless if you name and shame a proven scammer

Could be tabs along the bottom edge and magnets along the top?

Pfft MPG yawn, Ive never had a car that does 30 mpg lol 12mpg on a good day 9 mpg And if im careful 25mpg Even my van only gets about 20mpg lol

My First Disco. 1992 200 TDI . I Tortured that poor thing. Did loads of 4x4 play days, green laning and a few RTV comps. The pictures is when it got stuck in the lake at Cowm leisure. In the middle of winter, crap idea.

Build is comming closer: '' IRC shocks were dope but I had to drill larger holes in the pistons because even with 32wt oil there was almost no bound or rebound. IRC sell dual rate pistons though but I fixed the issue myself :). Other than that I am waiting on some new castor blocks, steering hubs and rear bearing carrier and some 18mm offset hex hubs. All alloy parts from integy. Initially I had alloy shock towers and RPM a-arms but it didn't work so well with LST shocks so I am back to stock using IRC upper shock mounts and IRL lower 6mm spacers.

Thought I would give my trophy truggy a complete face lift, I went for a proline bulldog 2012 shell, sweet looking body. I cut and trimmed the shell before paint as I didnt want to attack it with knives and scissors after paint, I finished off the edges with a dremmel for a smoother finish. Next , added the window masks, and used a 3mm fineline masking tape from ( jammydog.com) to give me a dividing line between colours, most of the masking in the pic is on the outside of the shell and was used as guides and markings to help keep everything neat and even on both sides, ive purposely overlapped the masking as this will give you a natural point, then just cut away the excess to leave an even line and sharp point. I then cut away all excess and removed guide line masking, I added the headlight decals to the inside of the shell, im not a fan of headlight stickers I think they look a bit meh, I will remove these last thing and just simply leave them clear. The stars have also been added , these are decal masks and not stickers from ( rcgraphics ) these will also be removed after the base coats have gone on, then sprayed alternate colours. Then I masked off the back half of body which will be the lighter end, the overspray film had started to come away slightly so a few masking patch ups were needed. Then sprayed the front half of shell in the darker colour, removed all the green masking ( frog tape ) I used this because its low tack and I didnt want the dividing line lifting up when I removed it.next I sprayed the back half in the lighter colour, then sprayed the whole shell in bright silver to make everything pop nicely and removed window decals. Next up, I removed the front star decal masks and sprayed then also backed these in silver, then removed the back stars , sprayed , and backed with silver, finally finished off the entire shell in black including the windows which will be a solid black rather than a tint, and finally removed headlight decals. Painting finished, decals added, and topped off with proline badlands , a new moulded rear wing , some shocksocks and metallic purple body pins with pro pulls although these havent been fitted yet. All materials and parts was quite expensive but well worth it, a couple of minor overspray marks but it was my first go at spraying a shell, all in all very pleased with the finish. it is actually metallic purple tamiya ps18 but does look blueish in some pics. thanks for reading : )