spents

your coil will have probably dropped down and be touching/rubbing on the flywheel mate, remove the fan case cover and regap the coil and all should be well again, coil gap should be 0.3 to 0.5mm

not trying to step on anyones toes here or anything, but shocks should always be bled and caps fitted with the piston at top of the stroke, as above, fill the shock, move piston up and down to remove air bubbles, then move piston fully to top of the stroke, fit cap, thats why excess oil spills over cos the pistons rod is now taking up space inside the shock, its not the actual piston that causes the shocks to lock up, but the shock rod when the shocks compressed, just my ten pence worth

hey ho gary lmao,

yes mate, but an engine also needs air to run, if he has the carb on there and puts fuel in the plug hole then it still aint getting air if the butterflys closed too far so it can run, and yes i know a two stroke will run without a carb on for a few seconds as long as theres fuel in the case/cylinder and its getting air cos theres no carb on, but as far as i can tell he aint tried without the carb, i've just been through this myself as stated in my last post, literally last week with a brand new engine, idle to low and it does the exact same thing as op says, pops on and off choke but wont run, i've been into petrol rc for over 30 years by the way, i di have experience , only trying to help the dude, edit, just re read the whole thread, i had it in my head that it did pop, just seen thats not the case, my bad lol, well it sounds more spark orientated then, you did check the coil gap didnt you ? just to make sure the coils not dragging on the flywheel i mean, plus check the spring wire in the plug cap, make sure its actually going onto the plug when you push the cap on, they do move and pull out sometimes,

nah dont replace the plug again yet mate, i would say your issue is the idles set too low, hence the pop but no run, wind the idle screw in 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and try again, if its seems closer to running but wont, then do the same again, dont overdo it though lol, either start it on a stand or remove wheels so it dont try and take off if you do overdo the idle, once it does start and clears any excess fuel then adjust idle down again to where its happy, just been through this myself with a new engine after its been run and you have the idle set it should start every time,

merry christmas everyone, hope you are all safe and well and enjoying yourselves,

best bet is use a cheapo shell or piece of lexan and experiment a tad dan, say two coats of gole then siver etc and see how it comes out

dan, if you do the paint inside a clear lexan shell then i'd either get a gold with a high metalic or pearl content then back it with the brightest metalic/ pearl silver you can find , then back that with black, that should make it pop, if your gonna do the outside of lexan then prep it really well, plastic primer, then a silver base as above, then gold, then clear coat, you might have seen my dragon jammer panels that i did green, that was done on the outside of lexan panels and i used automotive paint, not easy but it will stick if you get the prep right and take yer time with it, heres a pic of the panels matey, i know it aint gold but just to show automotive paint will stick to lexan lol, not sure why, but image from postimage wont work at moment dan,

seems a very odd issue mate, couple of things to try, with the engine off, radio on and check that throttle is opening fully, take air filter off and you will see the brass butterfly in the carb, work throttle with engine off and check butterfly opens fully, then again with engine off, apply full throttle and see if the brake activates when full throttle applied, might be a dodgy throttle/brake linkage, so engine off, radio on and full throtte and try and roll the car forwards to see if the brakes dragging, you could also try and see what happens out at the field by setting off and only going to say one third throttle, dont just go wide open from the grt go, if it picks up better then could be a carb/tuning issue, or as above sticky brake under full throttle etc, i still say the clutch engagement seems very low though, it doesnt say on rcmodelz website which springs fitted to the 30.5 engine, but i'd assume a minimum6k and more likeley 8k, doesnt sound to revving very high at all in the vid, i take it you got it from rcmodelz? if so then contact them either by phone or email, dont know when they are opening at moment during lockdown, but contact em and see if they can help, try and get hold of mark (hoss) sanders if you can, he will have a few ideas, send em a link to the video as well so they can see for there selves whats happening, don't get shirty with em or owt like that, sometimes rc cars aint quite right , most are fine but the odd bad one slips through the net, being nice and logical gets ya much further than demanding an answer there and then, (i'm not saying you would get shirty with em mate, but some people do lol), stick with it and see how they handle it, they are usually a good bunch at rcmodelz, always have been with me anyways, edit; link for rcmodelz support email, [email protected]

i'd be looking at other things than the engine tune going off the vid, it sounds like it has a very low clutch engagement, but being new i think it should have an 8.5k spring on the clutch, maybe a bad spring to start with, have you changed the gearing at all? sounds way over geared , or could be something as simple as the brakes are dragging heavily and stopping revs from rising, or a severe bind somewhere in the drivetrain, it just sounds very flat, just like over gearing or bad clutch spring or binding somewhere to me, could be carb related or overoiled air filter as well though,

i've always just used red rubber grease when doing anything using DOT fluid mond, never had an issue so far and i'm 52 now lol, besides, the amount of grease you use is only in very small amounts on seals/o'rings etc, not sure what brand name the stuff i use is, its just a big tin with red rubber grease on the label,

first option would be to do the bolt mod on the stock bell mate, instead of screwing a bolt in from the outside as your doing (its a common problem the bolts snapping) screw an allen bolt in from the inside so the threads of the bolt are outside the bell, then fit pinion and a nyloc nut and lock washer on the outside, that way if the bolt does snap(they snap a lot less often this way), then you just remove the bell and wind the snapped bolt out with an allen key, so no drilling needed, as for hex bells, vertigo 12mm hex are the best imo, thats if vertigo are still making em, you are limited on pinion sizes though, 16 to 19teeth if i remember right, or go blackbone, there not hex but super strong and the best of the best really, as for spur gear, again i say blackbone, but there are others around, ddm do there own spurs called black magic, but they are very heavy, bare in mind if you go blackbone spur you will also need a spur carrier, unless your bajas rcmax/twin or alx big bore engine, then the pinion/spurs are solid, hope that helps mate, oh, i think rovan and km do a steel spur as well, not sure how strong they are etc, but steel over plastic any day lol,

as dre said above mate, would you keep ahpi one stock if you found one ? you have a few options though, the rovan and km as stated above, my opinion is the km is the better option, but rovan are getting better, yes for the most part everythings interchangeable between hpi/rovan/km, although same as any platform some minor mods may be needed, so you could buy a second hand hpi and so a complete strip and rebuild, that way you make it into a kit then rebuild, buy a new km or rovan and do a complete strip, again make a kit and rebuild, scratch build from parts, and add the mods you want from the get go, and fit engine you want, 26cc/ 29cc/ 32cc etc etc, the last option could be expensive though buying all new parts and then building, but you could build the car you personally want, i-rc chassis and chassis brace , bonehead rc carbon parts or turtle racing or uber or i-rc etc, do a little research and do yerself a price list on parts, then decide if thats the way you wanna go, rcmodelz stock every part km and rovan, plus the area rc and various other upgrade parts, an alloy diff case/gearbox is a must if you bash hard, turtle racing do the gearbox as do km/rovan, whatever you do DO NOT build a full alloy one if your gonna bash it, it will bend and break, keep a few plastic parts in there that will flex a little and take some of the shock out in a big crash, ie; bulkheads, a arms etc, or you could just buy a used hpi or new km/rovan, bash it, break it and repair with upgrade parts as ya go,

ps-47 is the nearest yer gonna get mate, ps-47 is a pink/gold iridescent, jeff gordons racecar is more purple/gold or red/gold. but tamiya only do two iridescent polycarbonate colours, sooo yeh ps-47 is the nearest, maybe if its backed with black that will darken the pink up a tad,

the more power ya put through it whether it be petrol or electric the more yer gonna break mate, my dragon hammer is running an obr twin, so lots of power and lots of servicing of the drive line, but more power equals more fun lol, i've never owned a DB yet, but as above drive pins in the diff are 3.5mm in the DB and 4mm in the 5ive, 0.5mm difference but i break pins regularly, you will also break drive shaft pins and wear out cvd joints, but rebuild kits are available for em, if it was me i'd build the DB and run it and see what happens, all depends on how hard ya push it and how much power you have, repairs are part of the hobby anyways,