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Progress on my Tyrrell P34: Apart from changing the Tamiya/Molex connector to a Deans connector so I can run it on LiPo, the chassis is done. It has been a most enjoyable build, something a bit different to the norm. The kit comes with several tasty hop ups included, such as a fluorine coated TRF damper with black anodising, carbon reinforced uprights, precision nylon damper plates, etc. In keeping with the blacked out theme I have added a black Sport Tuned motor and swapped out some standard nuts for black nylocks. I also added bearings to the front wheels in place of the rather incongruous bushings, fitted a steel pinion and added some red alloy wheel nuts to emulate those used on the full-size car. The project is now on hold until summer - on a shell this rare I don't want dodgy weather to affect the paint...

Finally

Arrived yesterday just not had chance to open and look.

Ohhh, bloody hell yeah put the switch into the servo then into the y lead, then to receiver. Derp moment hmmm, that is thought provoking. Need to buy some cheap servos to test, or borrow some from some vehicles, if I can be bothered with all those bolts

Sounds like you have air in them and possibly a leak. The o rings on Baja shocks aren't the best and people often replace them with darksoul ones There is a really good guide to bleeding them in the manual and it takes a few tries but it does work

You can download the full manual for the 5bss from the hpi website this is a step by step build manual and if you follow it there isn't anything you shouldn't be able to fix

Right sure Im not the first to do this, but for the benefit of the forum Ill go fairly detailed. Most of you know my previous experience with R/C so it will be interesting to see how this compares.First off. I am a self confessed brand snob. Especially with radio gear and servos.... However I had to concede there was no point me paying £300 for a Futaba set up for a £101 Truck. Ive had very good luck with Turnigy Lipos and black can motors, which are fractions of the brand named stuff, so I thought Id go all out budget...... I'm probably going to be intentionally, somewhat unfairly harsh I believe. I intended this tying me over a month or so before I go for a brand £600-900 truck.... So far including the charger and some tools, Im still sub £300.... Thats ridiculous for a 1/8th truckThis came todayTo go with the motor and Charger I already hadMotor 4084 1650kv:80w Charger:Hobbyking 15kg servo. Very impressed with this if Im honest. Reviews are good and it feels decent quality for £13.The radio gear. I wanted to hate this. I nearly ordered a Futaba before this even came. This cost less than £16. That includes the TX/RX a Lipo for the TX and a Charger (USB). For less than £16. Quite frankly, thats absolutely ridiculous!!! I cannot get my head round that! It looked pretty tacky in the photo, but in the flesh its not too bad. Id prefer no orange sticker. It has D/R too. It feels pretty good to hold. Im EXTREMELY impressed with this for the money. Time will tell how it performs mind. Seriously, Im shocked. Ive paid £16 for a Lipo for my Futaba TX in the past...Lipo. 4s 5000mah 20c. £18. Probably under spec on paper. I ran my Xmaxx V2 on a pair of these no worries so Im sure it'll be okThe ESC is not here yet, just a trust Quicrun 150a Lets bear in mind Ive had Alot of R/Cs. And Im a brand snob. However, my last brand new R/C was very similar to this. A Hobao SSTe. I paid £250 for the roller, compared to £101 to this. I remember being utterly underwhelmed when I opened the Hobao.... So how about this, at about 40% of the price....First of all. The instructions. Short, but full colour and well printed. Looking good so farBodyshell. Well finished. Has a protective case which makes it appear matt in the photo. Its a strange shape, VERY high on the sides. Quite thin, but Truggy shells get battered. It comes without stickers, but the stickers are pre cut which is a nice touch. I also like the aluminium body post washers. to stop the pin pulling through. We are doing ok here...Spares/Tools/Misc. Comes with a complete optional 6s Centre diff, a sway bar kit and a pair of pinions for 4s/6s. Come on. Thats insane! On a Losi for example, those parts alone would probably cost more than the kits cost....Wheels and Tyres. I heard they were terrible. They are a real let down. The moulding is poor on the wheels. Theres marks, they look stressed already. They feel brittle. The feel matt in areas and glossy in others. Tyres don't seem too bad actually, and they're glued well, cant really judge them until I use it. They're probably slightly worse than the one on my Hyper Site, which lasted two runs. I did know this, but you must consider a set of top end Proline Badlands cost £84.... thats 80% of what the kit cost!The chassis. Jesus. IM EXTREMELY impressed. There is Carbon fibre and alloy every where. This really does have the LOOK of a £500+ race kit. Alloy Chassis Braces, Thick CNC towers. The A-Arms etc look very thick. CVD's all round IF I remember rightly. The motor mount is thick allot, an is a sort of cam style twist mount. This genuinely looks the part. I do not feel how I felt when I opened my Hobao SSte, more like the feeling when I finished building me RB ONE R, which would've been a £500 buggy at some point. Im genuinely impressed so far. Criticisms? The hardware doesn't seem top notch, Ive only unscrewed the motor mount a a few times and I can see a little wear on the screw. Also, the countersinking on the chassis isn't perfect. Its not a million miles out, but you can catch your hand on some of the screws underneath which could prove an issue. If Im nit picking, the plastics used on the none important things (like the RX Box, Battery Tray, ESC mount etc doesn't look the same quality as the rest of the plastics, but if they're going to skimp id rather them do that here than on the A-arms. Theres a touch of play in the rear wheels, but nothing Ive not seen on pretty much every R/C. Im confident it'll shim out. It rolls smoothly, even when meshed with a powerful motor. I appreciate shocks are all about performance but they feel (and look) very nice and plush. It genuinely doesn't feel like a £101 truck. IF my Hobao was going rate @ £250, this is worth £300 easily BASED ON LOOKS AND INITIAL IMPRESSIONS. You can sort of see the plastic contrast here. The A-arms look brilliant quality, as does the Carbon and the aluminium. Then there is a noticeable drop in quality around the servo mount. AS I say the plastics here are miles better than on the similar area on my Hobao

Cheers for the heads up on these I only use 2s picked up two for £35 posted!

WOW these tyres are staying. So much more grip on grass as well as better handling. The Mad Bull / Lunch box tyres are 110mm tall compared to the stock 105mm so close enough to not need a pinion change. With the increased grip there was a bit more cogging when starting off but still not enough to be a problem. I fitted the tyres to Tamiya 2.2 inch wheels which gives them a flatter profile compared to stock Mad Bull 2.0 inch wheels.The new servo does improve the turning radius. So far just bits from the spares box used so keeping this a cheap and cheerful project. John Mad Fox

I took another look today https://hobbyking.com/en_us/5600mah-7-4v-70c-lipo-car-pack-2s2p.html absolute bargain

Does fitting the tyres from a Mad Bull make this a Mad Fox??? Just thought I’d see what it looked like with wider tyres. Not intending to leave them on but might try seeing how it runs with them. John

drone escs are calibrated by hooking them up to cleanflight/betaflight you need to set all the min and max throttle ranges 1000-2000 etc then on the motor tab (with the props off for safety as the motors will spin up to max rpm) follow the video when i built my quad i had a motor that would not spin at all, this sorted the issue once you get it working you can use BLHeli suite to make other adjustments but its more for advanced users If you are new to quads i would use cleanflight, once you learn the basics flash the FC to betaflight for better fine tuning of your quad

Kit arrived , for the money I think it’s well worth it , the kit was on sale at the time of buying as a few others brought as well . pic showing the size against the trophy truggy.

Welcome to the forum

The fan is a precaution and may not be needed but cheap brushless motors tend to run hot. For a sensorless brushless system cogging is very minimal. Minor cogging when trying to start off very slowly but no problem with normal starts. I was impressed with how little cogging there was.. john

Hello and welcome.

I ran a hobbywing xerun 3.5t 9100 kv motor with the hobbywing xerun ver 2.1 esc in a team associated tc5 and it ran sweet with no issues. It was my speed machine at the time and it was uncontrollably quick, reliable and never had any issues, I used a overlander ultra sport 2s 5000mah 90c burst Lipo and traxxas connectors. I would definitely get that combo again or that esc at least and think it might be ideal for that motor. And I would think it’s suited to on road rc’s as in touring cars. or light weight buggy like a rear motor 2wd team associated and so on.

Get the GoolRC combo. ESC & Motor for around £30-£35 Didn't take long to arrive. About a week,, I think. Honestly, I wouldn't waste any money trying to improve the stock electrics. They aren't worth investing in.

So the motor turned up yesterday WINNING Got all the wiring together for running the big servo Soldering iron is broke so that stopped that Got the brackets swapped over on to the new tank. Will add the bung, line and breather when the motor is fitted Also mounted the throttle servo in the new tray and BONEHEADRC servo brace Had a fiddle with the killer Rc lipo switch too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shame it's not with best offer, I would offer £42, just to hint we know what they paid, stop trying to rip folk off

That’s easy to answer. for me, too much. But your here for a good time, not a long time

Fitted a 1501MG full size servo. Nearly twice the power and waterproof and has more travel. While the stock low profile servo is usable want to see how much of an improvement the new one is. Also fitted a twin cooling fan unit to the motor. Had it in the spares box so why not and it can’t hurt. John

"So it's not really going to be a proper restoration in the way I originally intended, which makes me feel a bit of a cheat" Don't be silly Nikki. You're doing an awesome job. It's all about evolution and personalisation, and like you said, "In the back of my mind is a future restoration using original parts as a shelfie, and somewhere to park the other bodyshell"

I like the idea of a horizontal battery placement low down in the chassis. Judging by how neatly you did the holes for the headlight lenses in the bodyshell, I'm sure you'll be able to make the openings look factory. As for securing the battery, how about using a pair of "wings" from a TL-01 along with the associated clips? The TL-01 tub is narrower than the lunchie one, so the wings would need to be shortened a bit, but again I am sure you could achieve a factory finish.

+1 with the 3 shoe. Just looked around and the clutch uses the same nut as the Trophy 4.6 so the Hot bodies one should fit as it fits the Trophy. All these. #67525 #101201 #HBC8059 #101199 or #101778 It's possible I may have the bits.

Clutch spring definite I would change to a 3 shoe clutch I did and it's so much better

it'll almost 100% be the clutch spring has snapped, causing the clutch to engage when the engine revs. Remove the clutch bell and have a look

*shudders*

Outlaw in Blue New shell painted in Tamiya PS-16 metallic blue. Tyres are the IROK clones on HPI Rock 8 beadlocks with Axial blue beadlock rings. Light bar is a Fastrax with 18mm lights. Very pleased with the way it's turned out. Shell was a right PITA to cut out though. Very,very thick on the top and needed a Dremel type tool to cut the top out, then lots of sanding.