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Most people who actually have the truck seem to like it, most people who don't have it see all the problems

No I disagree completely. If I snapped my shock shafts, broke my shock caps , blew my esc and or motor , smashed my wheels to bits and crunched my diff ring gear after paying £650 and waiting all that time.....and I felt it was un-justified I'd be ******!!!.... "We all see what the issues are"... no... No you don't... You think u know what the issues are... Because many of u feel u know best... U know better than traxxas... U know that this n that is wrong despite never laying a finger on the truck.. I disagree big time. I like the varied opinions and many are more than justified ,for and against, as we can all use our previous experience, what we read and or see in vids to make a judgement or opinion and there's nothing wrong with that... But.. i I don't go in for these sweeping general statements.. to be fair even if some of u had 1.... And felt the same I'd disagree as so far my xmaxx.. Sitting downstairs with its wheels off, nice, clean, warm and lubed up ready for its next run ( cracked wheels n all I'd guess) has done a great job of dishing out big grins and surviving the punishment I've given it. It's surprised me with its general strength. There's nothing like it at the mo and it's a good design. At £650 a great price. It's far from perfect. It can be made batter tho as usual.

.AJ.

And being a nob. Sorry, but it's a hobby, there's no need for "heroics" like driving 2 cars at the same time.

I like the way I need to run 30+ packs for some of u to believe this rig is okay....while seeing a few isolated negatives from people online u don't even know u r more than happy to take as gospel . I think many of u agree if u think about it... U know pretty quick if u like something or not... I'm not amazed by its out the box performance... But the big X is winning me over

Yeah... It helps absorb impacts I guess.... They seem very tough. Tbone has come out with a huge front bumper for those that r busting up the stocker... ive landed nose down hard a few times and it's just flipped right over back into its wheels off the front bumper... Had some big barrel rolls too... And sideways landings etc.... It's all in my vids. So so far i've broken a rear stub axle and cracked 3 wheels. Esc is not up in flames despite 19/50 gearing.. shock caps have not broken motor has not overheated slipper has not melted shock shafts have not snapped its all good so far .... The wheels r my only concern at the mo...

I dread to think yet they are safe in the knowledge that even if there next truck is under powered, the wheels crack, the shock caps come off, the ESC spontaneously explodes and replacing a tower means the whole from of the car needs replacing, people will buy it and even defend them.

Hey buddy. Just wondering how you are getting on with the car? im wanting to get into nitro cars but don't want to speed £300 on something I may get bored of so I was looking at these kits. I am a ex mechanic so that's not an issue. What's put me off is the reviews of the old kit. Any information would be appreciated

I only posted the other day how I have always got around this, Look at the bottom of This thread.

Yup... That's about the size of it.

He's got a SCT shell on it

We had information from day one, and it listed several key items that were obviously going to be...............wrong. The motor mount system. The ESC. The servo mount system. The odd wheel mount system. Sintered steel crown gears. Plastic geared servo. That list was common knowledge long before it was released. It's not made me hate the truck, I still think it's an awesome concept that's filled a gaping void in the RC market. But it has made the name "Traxxas" leave a bad taste. And when I use the word "concept", I mean it! The X-Maxx is an awesome concept that's been poorly engineered, quite possibly deliberately to keep certain key parts flying off the shelves, but we'll never know that for sure, it's just my cynicism kicking in I suppose. I do still love the concept, but with that list of (what I call) flaws, I couldn't justify the price. I want one, I really do, but not like this, not the Traxxas way. Hopefully the other big players will step up. That's my opinion, I'm entitled to it.

I now own it and it is a Truck.

D-Hawk bits ... Steering, shock caps, spring supports, shock collars, bottom cap ... Al.

I'm confused! When there isn't any information people aren't happy, when there is loads of information people aren't very happy

Ah, I've got it! The ball studs on the steering knuckles are upside down! (Or rather, they should be - they need to be screwed in from under the knuckles, whereas yours are screwed in from the top.) I was looking at the picture of the underside of your model, and something looked wrong but I couldn't quite figure out what. Only when staring at it side-by-side with a picture of mine did it click - your steering tierods weren't parallel with the lower wishbones, whereas mine were. A quick confirmation on page 8 of the manual et voilà!

Stock X2 servo's are actually very powerful.... much more torque then the 0241 Savox servo's I had in the X2...... Stock X2 servo's don't suffer from servo fad like the 0241's do either. If they can sort out the reliability out they will actually be a very good and viable servo but I suppose they are at the end of the day, RTR servo's.

RB? Factory set up is thinnest at the rear isn't it? Upping rear diff oil weight should help a little, my man flu fuddled brain forgets the physics but i'm almost certain it's the case. In the Hypers having a rear oil weight markedly lower than the front made them tail happy (which I quite liked at times).

Since I've owned my X2 I've broken 1 CVD pin, 1 servo and 2 diffs..... I replaced the internals in all 3 diffs as it just made sense instead of doing the 2 and waiting for the last one to give up...... And the 5ive servo's aren't any more reliable then the X2's...... That's it.....Quite good considering the way I drive it... New X2 is out today too... £25 cheaper but doesn't come with the free alloy parts... They've stopped stocking the version with the silenced pipe too.

Nice, ive got a quicrun in my Talion. I find it makes a big difference.

I don't, hand tools only for me

Arrma Typhon and Kraton, little facelift & New electronics, Hobbywing Quicrun 150a ESC, Typhon has Power HD 20kg servo, Kraton Has Savox SW-1210SG

The KM''s are cool mate. Most peeps that don't like them resent the fact that they could have bought 2 maybe 3 of them for the price of their branded model. Haha

I did another diff at the weekend, That's 2, only other thing to break is a servo, And that may be down to running on lipo. The other thing I looked at was that like the 5ive, A high percentage of the car is plastic, And in all my years in this hobby, The plastic that KM use is as good as any I have come across.even when it comes to the alloy, A lot is changed for the free parts, And your only left with the shock stays, Drive shafts and diff internals, This is why the only thing giving people trouble is the diff internals, Cos there's not a lot else left to go wrong or break.

On this occasion, who says he's driving both? I'm sure there were two people there, so you'd think one was driving while the other drove. Accidents happen, that's life. It may only be a hobby, but to get the best motion shots, you need a camera car. This can be a car or a second RC, either option requires more than one person. If you try to do it on your own, on private land or at least away from public highways, it's tricky, but achievable. Unless you have an accident. Then it all goes wrong. It's hardly heroics, just having fun and filming it.

Looks like there is a common theme running through some of these comments (pretty much exactly where I am at as well) Beaties Someone else at school had one Real car tuning/modifying/racing High cost of actual racing

If you get bored with large scale brushless there are even bigger RC money pits . . John

HPC gears

OK, let's get this right ... he pays $800 + whatever hop-ups + batteries / chargers ... goes out miles out of town to a bash site ... then runs over it to test it 'by accident' ... Yeah, right. Traxxas sponsored? Al.

Well i haven't posted in here for a bit. Been doing tonnes of stuff, been though 3 rolls of filament total. Ordered 4 spools from colorfabb. Sticking with them as its pretty strong strong stuff and prints really well. Also haven't had another dodgy roll even though that was replaced. Done a quick time-lapse of some stuff i was printing for a project at uni, also some pics of things I've printed from a model petrol pump for a company to a lipo tray for one of my cars. Petrol Pump Lipo Tray Model of a 400a MGM i was using to mock up in a car. Also i will be printing a body shell for my 2s speed car. The body has been modeled in solidworks and Ive done pretty extensive CFD on it too, getting the drag down to around 14N at 60m/s and only 5N of lift! In total it will be 91 hours of printing, but each part is around 15-20 Finally the time-lapse i done

Done the decals on the MB

Made myself a simple work stand for no monies, complete with milk bottle parts tray

the build continues (sort of) realised with fitting the subaru body im going to need a longer drive belt with it being a longer wheelbase body shell also a few screws are missing from the chassis conversion so im going to need to pop to my LHS for a couple of M2, m2.5 and some domed M3s all ive done today is fit the new tyres to the wheeis, think they look pretty cool and made a mock p of it all on the chassis

cant take it with u......

oh yes! i agree 100 % i started with a budget of £600 and.......... well lets not dwell on cost its only a number anyway lol

^^^^ho yes.....i said 800 for the x maxx no way....silly money for a rc!!..but i probly got that in my Baja now included buying it 2nd hand.....and all the upgrades its now got....and I still want more.....

Add up to the price of a hatch back. They are a lot of fun. Tuning is non existent once you nail it. Like all RC's, you're going to need a few spares to keep in your parts box but that's expected. Carbs, clutch, wheels, tyres, inner foams, spurs, pinions. Maybe some dogbones & cups. You're going to need plenty of space to run it, preferably away from people. They are big weapons, and noisey. And theres no such thing as largescale on a budget, whatever idea of price you have in your head, double it.

lol...good ol ftx quality...NOT!!.......tbh I`d go brushless with the hyper....no more tuning not starting glow plugs fuel grime hassel....... and sell the ftx.....but if u wanna go 1/5th....do ur home work..watch plenty u tube vids of em.....needs big space to run away from people/houses ideally......and they soon add up ££££ wise......they still brake......parts can b expensive compared to what u got atm.....u b looking at 250-350 2nd hand tidy....or same but stock no mods for a km.....don't get a yama.....no matter how cheap it may b.....

Yer, If it gets bad, I may just pick up one of them AreaRC alloy setups over at RCModelz, Looks goodish value. Another small mod that I have always done on my 1/8 cars, Is the slop in the wheels, I hate that even from new it's pretty bad, I thought of very fine washers behind the bearing moving it closer to the wheel hub and taking up the small gap you get, The best solution I came up with and have used ever since, Is an O-Ring. I have a box with a selection of O-Rings in, And find that if I use the smallest one I can stretch and roll over the axle shaft, This takes up the gap, Still allows some movement, And the O-Ring is pushing on the right part of both the hub and the bearing, It can be a bit of a struggle to get the pin back through at first, But once through, Wheel still runs smooth, With next to no play what so ever.

Hey guys not been around for a while but I was just having a look through and spotted your thread. Seeing as you asked how easy they are to build I thought I'd make a post Basically they aren't that bad if you have a decent soldering iron, I've made 3 now without issue 1150w 47a 25v using 2x HP DPS-600PB psu's in series there's plenty of info on how to to it on google, I'll see if I can find the links I used when I get on the PC later. Making a single 575w 47a 12.5v is a simple affair and you don't need to open anything up, but to run them in series involves messing with the dc earths inside one of them which if not done properly can lead to death so do so at your own caution. On the plus side they can be had for £30 a pair on eBay and just take some wire and 6 servo connectors in my case to make work https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/diy-24v-47a my main info source

The only point imo is they are all toys and you choose where you spend your own money, if we were talking about medical equipment there might be a problem, but if I buy a km toy car and it blows up who gives a toss! ( owner of original and clone toy cars )

We can talk about clones etc all day long but in the end its all about having a hobby and having fun on a budget we can afford.

Well so far my cheap tat X2 has provided me with 5 months of joy and not a single it of bitterness

I bet that some of you losi owners shop at aldi or lidl

Be even better if you could bin all the battery bits and put an engine in one, Wonder if they'll make a 2 stroke edition ????

no probs...

I did the same ro my SCTE 1.0. Used 2.8 trenchers and a proline chevy body made for the 3.3 revo.