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Have to say i have been following both this thread and the thread on URC and there is huge speculation on both, all of which is based around Traxxas's previous efforts but the one thing guys have not picked up on is this is all NEW to Traxxas so it may well shock us all.. Will it be indestructible i doubt it but then again is there an indestructible rc ?? will parts be expensive and what would you call expensive ?? lets face it 1/5th scale stuff is not cheap period is this 1/5th scale or is it something else ?? you dont see guys bitch and moan about the price of say a baja upgrade .. There will be tons of aftermarket bits for this which gives you choice whether there needed or not will be subjective to the owner unless you just follow the masses or just love buying bling If i had the funds i'd have one in a heart beat

Hi all, been a while since I posted something on this project I have been waiting on some parts, and I decided to purchase a kit developed by a Tamiya fan David Beeby. He re produced the parts that Jamie Booth had on his egress from Tamiya racing factory (TRF) and seeing that particular car in Radio Race car all them years ago, decision was an easy one. 17 kits will be made and individual numbered and I will add it to this egress to make it really special for me, hopefully will receive the kit in the next few weeks. Oh......by the way both body shells are here and I do love this particular undertray

Managed to snap a cnc knuckle on my ST pro. £35 for a pair so does anyone have a right? Dom

Well i can only say the first print was a sucess! Cube printed pretty much perfectly and was even 20mm within 0.3mm accuracy on all sides! Now to print some other more complicated things to see what this thing can do

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=331198918231&alt=web http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=331198918231&alt=web

LOL - that'll do it!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-Savage-XL-Octane-Roller-Chassis-Gasoline-/291515031111

ITS PRINTING!

Definitely more chunky Should handle 3s ok as the revo is 4-6s. .....and a lot heavier

Indeed I am desperate, but the Baja is a keeper and is one of the fleet that I'll gladly be buried with! I'll find a way to get one of these, Ho yes!

Err nope... Sorry that is NOT good advice!

Bell crank all done. ...and streeing posts ect.... and the prolines. Also squeezed a power cap in the tiny rx box . Can't fit the vanquish hubs as I got no imperial bolts yet. ... so just the revo rear shaft mod to do for now until me other bits turn up

Have you seen we have a pm system ???? Would of achieved the same thing without breaking the very easy to follow rules

Couldn't get a pro mx 340 they were out of stock at mmr model tech. , wasn't bothered about the cost I've already paid custom charges there wasn't much difference in cost even with custom charges. Thanks anyway.

Thanks for the links to the othet threads and info mate. Ill go check them out Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Internet pic as i havent got it out the box yet lol HD Rear bumper for the D2

New engine arriving Monday from DDM http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.13760/.f cheers for all your advise.

You can find everything you need to know in the link below The Overlander has a built in power supply so there's no need to add that onto the cost.

I figured he needed it, but it is still good to see the differences. So, I'm using the glow in the dark filament! So cool. Downside, I'm just over half way through the print, and it seems the filament is contaminated, I've got one layer which is dirty. The rest seems fine. I also think I have some "back lash" on my X axis. Will need to look into that. Fingers crossed, Glow in the dark pictures later!

If it's more then £630 just buy a brand new KM X2

archer really must have supports, having printed him out i can honestly say without support both hands - rear cowl and chin will suffer, your just printing in air supports gonna take a lotta time removing nipping them off then sanding back to the profile required. but both those are good , the right suffered for indifferences in cooling hence the curling edges, with a flat base plinth like these if possible i would raft print, the cut the raft off around the edges leaving it on the bottom of the plinths, could always just run a creditcard with some filler over to hide the weave pattern. so yeah your gonna find some model print ace, some models have problems, and other models make freddie kruger look like a supermodel.

yeah thats only like a 2000mah nimh pack it was the only battery i had laying round that could fit the rear battery area at the time. the weight right over the rear has an unusual style needed to drive, go into a corner or turn just a little to quick and it rolls right over. dont get the front up onto a rock or likes then keep feeding in the gas is backflips from the weight. But get it onto a loose sandy dirt and it power drifts and slides just like a real trophy - unlimited truck does, rear sinks the weight shifts and the front paw lifts up. i have a fully locked rear diff and a semi open front diff ( front is a geared diff but has very thick grease to hinder it) its kinda like half locked and half not. under enough weight and grip it locks up but if one looses a little grip it unlocks and the diff starts to engage, the hammer is set up to go from low range gear crawling to flat out low range speed, then shift into high range and use the longer ratio to build up speed and allow it to slide around /grip up on tracks. i run on both woodland paths / front gardens / grass and the local street. its a jack of all trade. in low range i can push near on 10-15 mins running, in high range my brushless just swallows mah like soda pop, so i get about 5 mins flatout runtime. Gearing i run a 78 spur ( its the stock one) and i dropped to a 22t pinion ( lowest pinion that will fit with a 78 spur, if you find a 68 spur you can run teeth sizes upto 35t pinions thats huge hi range speeds for a dual box crawler). Body wise its an hpi mini trophy truck body been hacked up some so it fits the stock wheelbase of the twin hammer, the more better idea would be stretch the rear of the hammer with longer link bars so axle move back about half an inch ( yep half an inch to long the body is, so you have to cut up a 30 quid body lol) . other bodys fit to, the tamiya sand scorcher beetle body could fit if your willing to spend cash and then hack up a pefectly good body. other have made templates from the original panels and beat out some alloy ones ( i think i even see a stainless like chromed panel one done), fake carbon fibre sheet etc etc. then they go mad with lights and roof racks, adding scal'ish parts just like scalers do. Its all what you envisage your truck to be then you just create it from bits and pieces of other models, a old seat , some tracktor steering wheel a servo and a old model driver they come up with a turning steeringwheel and head mod. so the sandbox is there you just have play around in it and see what gets created. theres only a couple other trophy truck mods to the twin hammer, its a hard chassis to design and bodys tend to be in the 1/12 -14th scale that fit. you ahve to homework the project alot.

AJ- on the topic of carbs for the G320 (ESP Race head), what is your opinion? Do you find the bearing modded 990 more responsive than the 1107? Asking because I have not found much on forums, and you have first hand experience. I've ordered a Boosterpipe, but it will be a while before mine is ready- half done with transferring to Stu's chassis. Hope its better than my Samba. AJ, your DBXL is what all DBXLs aspire to become when they grow up! Pleasure keeping track of your build.

looks good mate I would use the decals the plates look good on it to mite have to get a mini or something similar for my next build

If it's more then £630 just buy a brand new KM X2

I'm thinking of buying a hyper tt and have a couple of questions for those experienced with them. 1. What are the weak areas that will need upgraded. 2. Can parts be sourced in the UK 3. Will it handle a 4s setup Cheers guys, any input will be appreciated.

I have a nice 2 cell setup that I used to use in my old rustler, hpi vapour pro esc and a turnigy 5250kv 4 pole motor. The esc is 3s capable but the motor only 2s. It used to go very well geared 76/24 interested?

Yeah it's gotten worse I think too. I used to be able to take cover then pop up when aiming now he won't go into cover. I have some energy weapon that one shots most of them now tho. Gauss rifle or something. I've spent the last 20hrs of play trying to win the settlement trophie I juse can't get past 87% happiness. Altho they liked the night club lol. Strobe lights and spinner balls near a food shop. I've started to see some bugs but usually fast travel to the same location sorts them out. The worst one that annoyed me was the castle if the radio operator leaves his post he will not go back so you lose freedom fm and the cannons. I just started using power armour that's cool with the upgrades he carries 420lbs now. No good still I has 900lbs at the end of the last mission.

Made a start tonight!

The issue I raised, ... and which they could not answer... was around the exchange rates they were using. They use a rate for conversion on their website which differed from PayPal....for which they blamed PayPal. So I checked the conversion rates by getting the Chat Idiot to show me the conversion rate. The internet values at hte time showed $1.66 to the pound. HobbyKing were using $1.52 Now....if, lets say, PayPal used an exchange rate of say...$1.40. Where does the money go? It goes to HK becuase the conversion rate is determining how much is paid to HobbyKing. If they are fully aware that the exchange rate they were using showed a lower price than the customer was going to be charged, then what they have done is sell goods above marked price. This is not permitted in the UK, and is crooked however you look at it. When pushed they got a bit flustered over this, which in my view, is usually the action of a guilty company being caught. Whilst I know it's not practical to continually change prices, since all their prices are actually in US$, so all they have to do is modify the conversion value to stay accurate not re-write their website. Then comes their refund policy. They deliberately give themselves 7 days to hold your money as PayPal do not take action until 7 days has elapsed. They say they will 'speed up the process' if you raise a dispute. Lets look at this.... 7 days to hold your money in their accounts where it can be used by them to gain interest etc. If you raise a dispute...it is frozen and tehy cannot withdraw it or use it....so you get a quicker refund? Otherwise they wait the full 7 days until PayPal will hit them with a chargeback. That's another deliberate policy designed to allow them to use your money following a cancelled transaction unless you stop them in which case tehy give it back becuase it's no help. Why can't they refund immediately? I know I can with an E-Bay sale. You just press a button. That was another question I asked that they refused to answer. So in summary... 1) They suggested their website was in error with it's advertised price in UK £ but refused to do anything 2) They suggested it was an IT issue that needed escalating, but I wasn't overcharged despite the error resulting in a higher charge 3) They would not refund for 7 days for no reason they cared to state unless a made a complaint and blocked the funds.... Small amount of money this time...but a big issue of principal. The whole CS experience with them was shocking from start to finish. They made me go through the whole order again, screen shot every step, I showed them the price each time, and they had to admit the error. At which point most honest companies would offer to sort something....even if it was only 'store credit' or else allow me to cancel the order if I was unhappy and give me my money back then and there. Not Hobbyking.

I sold mine for around a grand and put it towards Renault Clio when I was 17........ Thats how much needed upgrading. Unlimted Engineering Diffs/Arms/Suspension, Gorilla Chassis and GA Bullks lol........ Oh and that uber rare titanium gear set, think that was $300 alone!! Loved building it though, Sold it as a roller to Candyman in about 2005!!

back in the day when traxxas made nice stock trucks i remember them well.

Better is better, bigger is just, BIGGER

I think if you're wanting opinions on what people think, perhaps naming it My FINISHED RX8 wasn't the best idea lol. Let's see some action shots, who cares about wheel nuts ;)

yeah when your down in that low range your really only just turning over the motor so you see those stalls and pauses more. when your up in the higrange gear the pause is still there but its less weird a feeling, after a while you get used to that throttle off allow center then engage for brake. once you come to a stop and then recenter and reverse you start to move backwards. if you have crawler mode its nodoubt got a drag brake enabled . My twin hammer is the kit version one, but those front shocks and that BM upgrade to fit shocks is awesome. i run a big heavy nimh battery in mine but i am able to squeeze into the chassis where the steering servo sits a 7.4v 4600mah compact hardcase. also have a trophy truck body for it to but my 3d printer has bust and i need a new one so that project has been put on hold , gotta 3d print some body mounts and plate post holders. once done i can fit a hpi throphy truck body. Twin hammers ford trophy truck mashup

I'm a BMW fan myself chap, as long as it has a BMW badge and it isn't a fake Mini lol. A] because it isn't Mini and B] it's made by BMW :lol:

That seemed to work a little better. Here is the comparison On the left is S3D, and the right is Cura. No support, 0.1 layers, and both printed at 50mm/s S3D has a far better finish, but doesn't deal with overhangs very well, compared to Cura, but Cura isn't perfect either. This might be fixed by adjusting my cooling, which I'm doing now. Cura seems to deal with the overhangs a lot better

As others have mentioned it's actually a pretty decent little RC as is and 2s is fine. Also has potential for some serious modding. John

Show us the truck then or the Esc end

i will get told of for this but. the ps4 is worth way more than folks have offered even in this state, so here is the main causes to that problem. first off try turning it on without hdmi pluged in, if ps4 boots up you need to put it to safe mode and initalize the ps4 from the safe mode menu ( it takes about an hour but give sthe ps4 a whole new fresh os system to run off) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hhw85cT08jU Second is the power brik in the rear this can also be the cause of the blue death light click and shutdown syndrome as seen in this video to. same as what yours is doing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hhw85cT08jU i know i did wrong moderators BUT i will not sit back and allow this to happen, wirralnitronewbie deserves help to make good his ps4 so it does fetch the correct asking price and not get hawkers looking for fast bucks.

2 Of these should get it moving

i wouldnt go anywhere near 170f

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221639544307?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT There you go. Seem to work fine. No idea how accurate they are, but at that price .... Al.

Now the rest of the photos.