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If I were selling these, I would look at all factors in play and set a price accordingly, not just look to optimize my profit in the short term. There is clearly good potential demand for this product. This is a blue ocean market your addressing (the gap between Losi full price and a KM Baja), not a displacement of an existing market. As such, RC Modelz should capitalise on this demand (just look at this thread), sell the stock they have coming, get all the positive feedback that a good product at a good price point will get and the smash the market. It really can't be that difficult to set a price...... ???? If you need to tweak the price later, then so be it, but come on, seize the moment! If you don't grab the market quickly, I'll buy a couple of containers of these and jump on the opportunity myself...

To be fair to my KM engine, I found sand in the air filter so that had a large part in replacing mine, so that was more my fault, my first KM was great til I sold it with over 15 tanks through it. Either way it'll only tempt me if the price is right, it won't upset me, I simply won't get one. Or a losi.

If it ends up towards the

If you're set for a Baja, why are you looking on the KM X2's thread? Completely different animals entirely...

thats the Tamiya T34 Taxi version, notice the white wall road wheels, and the semi plastic metal/look tracks. it also sports a rear parachute tube, to slow you down when lipo modded. we should buy it !!! no radio gear, no working gun, possible knackered motor, will need a full bearing kit a recoil servo mod, brushless conversion and lipo storage, hmmmmmmmmmm

my baja lives again just a few things need done mainly brakes right now but like robert say`s you don`t need brakes there for pussy`s lol

My old school Schumacher Fireblade2000, Evo Hybrid..

Carrot, stick and donkey spring to mind....

These really smart plastic number plates for my Pumpkin.

Just one set?

Nice tip on the CVDs TopGun.

Woha! I was on their site today and I didn't notice those! All I have to say is NICE!!! I'm ordering a set now!

I dont think anywhere else in the uk will be selling them, as far as i know there is only rcmodelz sells km. In my buisness the first thing i look at is the mark up price to see if its viable to sell, buying any product in and not knowing what you can sell it for imo is a big no no, if its to expensive it will not sell, its as simple as that really, what ever that product is. In the case of this km x2 i honestly think anything over 600 and its to close to a losi price wise, the losi is superb quality and everyone knows this, dont get me wrong km's are very good for money but there not losi quality. Take the hpi baja v km baja, a hpi is the thick end of 700 so pricing a km at 350 its half the price, thats why its sold in big quantaties, a losi 5ive can be had for 900, so going off the baja theory the km x2 needs to be under 500 imo to make it sell as well as the baja, kinda a half price theory if you like, if you get what im saying, if a copy is 3/4 the price of a genuine losi at just under 700 i for one would sooner add a extra 200 and buy a losi, but at half price or under makes it a much more tempting prospect.

Each part of the shell and chassis hand crafted on this Range: I have no words other then "speechless"

Festive greetings ladies and gentlemen! With Christmas quickly coming up, we have some great prizes lined up in 5 separate draws to help you get the RC you've always wanted under the tree. 5th December 2x

All km cars come with wal carbs they have done for some time

Update time Got some parts through from rcmodelz: Piston ring A full set of gaskets Piston stopper and flywheel puller Front upper arm holder Joint for the wing I also got a full screw kit from irc and a full bush set I like how the compartments of the screw kit have been marked out so you know where each screw goes I really need a Baja 5b manual though! (My missus is lending me her 10.1 tablet so I can get a pdf of it - I'd rather have a paper manual though) I also finally got the parts that I won on eBay They needed a good clean so the chassis parts were put in the dishwasher My cheapo Irwin T-handle Allen keys arrived today as well - the 4mm passed its first test by undoing the 4 head bolts on the engine without rounding off :) All need now is a bit of time to strip and clean the engine and carrying putting the Baja together

If you've not seen this, it's a great bit of filming! The way it continually lifts its front off-side paw, as if it's asking for a treat, is just hilarious! Really starting to want!

Haha! I think your description is spot on! Soft and plasticky vs. soft and spongy is exactly how I'd explain it now that you mention it. 8-) I have the yellow ones. I still haven't glued them to anything, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with them. I will say the rims are very very close in design to the WR8 tarmac rims. They may even be an exact clone of one and other, I'm not sure which came first... It could very well have been the HSP rims. Anyway I'm probably going to order another set of the cool yellow wheels so I'll have something to mount my 2 full sets of 4590s when they come in ;-) (yeah I got them for $23 shiPPed!!)

Hey welcome! This is a great little car! If you are running on tarmac with some loose stuff on top (dust, sand what have you) I'd go with 10k front and rear and 100k in the center. You could stick to the grease but it really isn't all that great for tarmac. It will tend to unload a lot coming out of corners and it makes the car handle pretty odd. With the 10k she will be much smoother and more predictable. Depending on the tires and the power you have on tap it will make it really easy to power slide through corners if you choose or making it just as easy to brake down to the correct speed, make the corner and then have the car pull itself out of there like a rocket powered mule. If you are running on mostly scale packed dirt with gravel or a thin coating of loose stuff it may be better to go a little thinner front and rear. Maybe 5k-7k. In either situation I'd stay with 100k or higher in the center diff. That's my 2p ;-)

Showing your age there Noj! I only remember Brucie doing that show.

Hi Abby and welcome to musk forum. Pop up some pics when you have 5 mins and I'm sure we will be able to point you in the right direction Also depending on where your from, you could always go along to a meet and maybe pick the brains of a few members, being new means nothing in this hobby, it evolves quickly so were all forever learning........

Looks like a good buy if it all works ok.

But MGM are proven, I have a fifty percent success rate! Oh wait, that's not great is it?!

the km baja range are good for the money so the x2 also has to be good for the money imo that has to be a max

Don't use a lighter for the heat shrink.

You beat me to it! http://www.tanks-alot.co.uk/sales.htm I'm pretty tempted by one of the 'little' APC's for only

Like the colour, if your looking for some upgrades I can recommend some aluminium rear links, GPM steering kit and definitely some new tyres. Ben.

FWIW I was getting chatter at full lock with the stock dog bones when I tested it off the ground. So I went ahead and set the end points to stop it from happening and doing so drastically impacted the steering, I thought there had to be something more to it so I tested it out on the ground and I found I could let the end points out much further before I got any chatter. You might want to see how yours works on the ground to see if you can tweak the end points out further. The info is helpful though, thanks! So off hand do you think the CVDs have more articulation before they chatter over the stock dog bones or less? I'm really hoping they have more range of motion, I can't wait to order a set!

I'll maintain it till I'm blue in the face, There is no better stock kit scaler out there when you consider, price/capability/toughness/spares and hop-up availability, plus it's a base for endless possibilities..... Biggest restraint is the wallet.......

Don't rob and Marcus also use gen 2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Patience is a grand thing we don't do estimations so the countdown will continue .........

When I ran it on the car stand to test, the only time it binds is at full steering lock. Chances are you would have already adjusted your steering endpoints to get rid of the buzzing sound, further decrease your endpoint value setting whilst spinning the wheel until the binding disappears. It doesn't ever bind to the point that it completely stops the shaft spinning. I can't think of a better word right now but it kind of "hops" and you get this feeling that if left unchecked this could put unnecessary load on the bearings and outdrives until they fail or wear out, even if they are HPI's HD ones. So to anyone looking at CVDs, make sure you adjust your left & right steering endpoints after the installation to weed out any rough feeling when the wheel is spinning at full steering lock. Despite dialing back the endpoints the car still has plenty enough steering throw but do take note it "will" be decreased just a tad. So unless you plan on driving in super tight spaces at super slow speeds and require all the steering throw this chassis can afford, I can't imagine this decrease in steering throw bothering any WR8 owners out there. The CVDs do not bind the rear axle at all, I tested that it spins freely at full droop and at full compression. I hope this helps =)

Haha... You got me. I'm going to need two. I can't believe I'm the last one to know about these! I've been waiting for someone to make a set for ages. Now the question is, do I wait until they pop up on eBay to order them from their eBay store? Or should I bite the bullet and get them from their website? The eBay store is usually cheaper and offers free shipping plus I'm not in any rush to get the WR8 back on the road. I'm still waiting for some more parts... I guess I'm going to wait. Damn I'm excited though!!

http://www.rcmart.com/gc301-gyro-p-39136.html?cPath=36_616 I have SkyRC's gyro installed in mine, it's tiny and fits nicely into the WR8's radio box next to the receiver. The best part, $23USD!!!

It not worth the money when you can get generic heading hold gyros for half the price! Save your money and search for cheaper alternatives. (I'll link you to something when I'm at home later and not on my phone). Anyway the heading hold gyros are pretty amazing little things. For stability they are like having the best wrc guy in your pocket, they will keep the car going where ever you point it. I used one on my sons car (he is legally blind) and it helped him drive it a lot better. He would always have trouble telling which direction the car was pointing after spinning out and now with the gyro it spins out a lot less and he seems to be enjoying it more and more. I'd say give it a shot. Let me find you a link for a cheaper generic one though ;-)

Integy released these a few months ago, I have a full set installed in mine. Fit and finish is good and works great =) http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=20455&p_catid=368&ratesortby=New#.VH5aT8kzHqA

well it is christmas

A few pics of my 1985 Rover Vitesse V8.

I have never used a roto start specific starter..but have used plenty of drills to start engines....some drills can have a clutch...

Couldn't help myself, emptied my bankie of all the loose change I've been saving and what do you know there was enough to buy a black edition Lunchbox a 4600 battery, plus sealed bearings. So from two weeks ago never having owned an RC I'm now the owner of two and can't believe how much fun they are to build and run. Just been out with my twenty year old daughter to the park and beach and skatepark.Oh how the trucks suffered. Big chunk missing off of the front right hand corner of the Pumpkin. Easily sorted with some metal tape. Two broken body mounts on the Lunchbox. Ordered some black aluminium ones. A few scrapes on both but an hour of fun.Wish I'd got into this years ago.

no its not. Oh i hear someone crossing our bridge ------->

Commenced the first of many shelfer builds: tt02 zakspeed capri.....lovely