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Well spoke too soon Van has just been !!!! Hobbyking Delivery by JasJab, on Flickr

This review is for new guys as well as some of you veterans in here... It's worded toward new guys, so bare with me OK. My thinking was there is so much rubbish on the web about these cars, I figured I'd blow some coin and set it straight. Is it worth the 450 bux I spent? This is what I bought. http://www.kingmotorrc.com/KSRC_002_...e_p/km100o.htm I ordered an extra black and red body so you will see pics of both a black and yellow bodies. I took it out of the box and I couldn't believe how much this thing weighs! 29 pounds without fuel. I thought it was a type-o in the description, but nope... it's heavy! I have no idea why it's 6-7 pounds heavier than the HPI equivalent. The body that it came with this buggy is very similar to the original HPI RTR version from 07, except the "red stripe" isn't red on the KM, it's pink... Sorry, but it's Barbie pink. I call my buggy Fruit Loops just because of this pink striping. The radio is awesome for rtr fodder. It is a FlySky gt3b. This radio has excellent reviews and is the best rtr radio I've ever used. I usually toss the stock radio gear in the bin as soon as I open the box, but not with this radio. The trims were set correctly right out of the box and worked perfectly. I range tested this to over 100 yards and it worked better than my old Spektrum DX-3. The steering servo is decent and has enough power to crank the wheels lock to lock while sitting on dry pavement, it's not very fast, but it'll get you by until you can swap it out for your favorite servo. The throttle servo is surprisingly fast for a rtr servo. The power is sufficient enough to lock the brakes on demand and fast enough to get a snappy throttle response. Nothing worse than a slow throttle servo, like a Hitec 645. Yuck! This buggy was shipped with the "Thor" pipe. Which is inspired by the CPI big-bore pipe. Fit and finish on this pipe is really nice. The chrome finish is bright and looks pretty nice. Mine did not come with the SS inspired pipe shown in the pics in the advert. I never cared for the SS pipe anyhow. Too loud and it didn't really add that much power. This buggy came with the pull start, air filter and shock covers. They weren't installed, they were in a bag tossed in the box, but it's cool that they were included. The shock covers are really heavy-duty and are pretty thick, but they sound like a diaper crunching when you cycle the suspension though. I would recommend adding a barrel clamp to the tie string on the pre-filter for the air filter, because tying that little string once the pre-filter is installed is a huge PITA! You can find the barrel clamps (like on the hood strings of sweatshirt) in the camping section of your favorite sporting goods store for about a buck. I would also recommend an Outerwears cover for the bottom of the motor. Running in grass or leaves will plug up the cooling vents on the bottom of the motor and overheat your motor. The Review: I gave the buggy a thorough once-over to check for loose or stripped screws and I didn't find any. I was surprised because I found at least 10 stripped, missing or loose screws on my Redcat Rampage XB. I guess it goes to show this is, in fact, a higher quality buggy than some of the Chinese junk, er... R/C's out there. The rear diff was only about half-full of this nasty yellow oil, I believe was rear diff oil for a full size lorry, it stunk! I didn't find any loctite on any of the screws, but the screws were torqued to the proper "Red-Faced-Grunt" torque specification, I don't know what that is in NM, but they were tight nonetheless. I applied loctite to all fasteners as should be done with anything with an engine. And Red-Faced them again myself. The only faults I found out of the box were an over tightened screw on the rear bumper, which caused the rear bumper to crack at the screw hole, the diff had a bit of a leak and the right rear shock was leaking. I didn't care about the rear bumper and as far as the shock I contacted [email protected] and told him of the problem. He sent me new o-rings and a complete alloy diff by over-nighting them at their expense! I have no idea how much that cost them, but WOW was all I could say! Well, I assumed it was a bad or pinched O-Ring, but you know what they say about assuming... It turned out it wasn't a bad or pinched o-ring, it was the steel clip that holds the cartridge together in the shock body, it had popped loose. I put the clip back in properly and refilled the shock with HPI 5wt fork oil and it since hasn't leaked a drop. Something that bugs me is the rear wheels wobble, my Redcat does this too. It's from the rear hubs flopping around on the suspension pins. This is very annoying. It's embarrassing to have my wheels flopping around like Bingo-Wings on an old woman. (Bingo-Wings are the flabby part of an old woman's arms where the tricep muscle is supposed to be.) First run: Simple... prime, choke, pull and it was running in 3 pulls just like it should. The pipe has a nice rasp to it, but it's not ridiculously loud. Much quieter than the Baja SS pipe. Anyway... The sound is crisp as is the throttle response. I was amused because of all of the so-called, "reviews" I've read about these cars and usually the first thing you read about is the carbs are junk. This one works as it should and is as easy to tune as any Walbro I've ever tuned. But KM is now including clone Walbro carbs on all their cars. To know for sure if your Walbro is a true Walbro and not a copy, look to see that it says Made in Japan on the outlet side towards the inlet manifold. If it doesn't it a copy. The stock carb and throttle servo have now been sacked in favor of a Savox 1257 and a Walbro 813, I prefer a snappy throttle and the stock servo and carb just didn't cut it. The buggy started and idled well. Throttle response was decent and the car quickly came up to speed. I don't have a radar gun, but from my experience with 1/5 scale cars I believe the stated "40mph right out of the box" If it's not 40mph, it's very close to it. The more I run this motor the more it loosened up and started to make some decent power. This is the 2 bolt 30.55cc and it's pretty fast for stock. This motor has pretty decent low end, enough to break the tires loose on dry pavement from a standstill and surprisingly long legs. It just revs and revs. And that's a good thing. Est hp is probably in the 4hp with this pipe and carb setup. It revs higher than my CY Gp290 but has about the same amount of low end grunt. This motor totally SMOKES that turd HY that's in the Redcats. Though I think a silver can Clodbuster motor has more nuts than the HY. The stock "all terrain" tires are inspired by Hostile (so are the KM buggy monster tires) they do pretty well on dry pavement and dirt roads or baseball diamond-type dirt. They showed a little wear from the repeated donuts and drifting I subjected it to, but nothing major. Yes you can drift this car... easily! There is enough power that it will rip sideways at 20mph with just a snap of the throttle. There isn't enough grip from these tires to pull the front wheels (wheelies) as they spin before the front lifts, but the rear does squat pretty low on a full throttle takeoff. This was my experience during a cold 10F day, so I'm sure they will behave differently in the summer. The stock all terrain tires suck in the grass! Sorry, but they do. If you want to play in the grass and actually go anywhere, buy some knobbies. All these A/T's do is donuts and shred the lawn, but if that's what you like to do, then by all means... I did manage to break the front shock tower from running in the grass. I was a little disappointed because this is the Nylon version and it's supposed to be stronger... It broke just running on flat ground, so I don't know. But, it was very cold out that morning, like I said above, it was 10F. The good thing is parts are cheap (compared to my FG parts!) and a new alloy front shock tower and braces only cost me 50 bux and while I was waiting for the new parts to arrive, I just zip tied the front tower back together. The clutch sprays black crap (think brake dust) all over the rear of the car and after only 4 tanks it's starting to squawk under acceleration. Time for a clutch... No big deal. The steering belcrank linkage broke from the strength of my hands trying to pop the ball back on, Fail! It just started it's 5th tank and the flywheel nut came loose and allowed the woodruff key to destroy the crankshaft and flywheel. When I emailed Dan at Kingmotors, he basically said "tough toenails, you bought it, your stuck with it." Fail! Pros: Price. Radio. Decent throttle servo. Pipe. Alloy diff with hardened gears. 30.5cc motor. Outerwears style covers. Steel rollcage. Tires that can be driven on the road without destroying them. Wheels that aren't black! Woo Hoo! Cons: Heavy. Damn heavy. Like Oprah's ass. Red stripes aren't red, they're pink. Broke a shock tower on flat ground. White Nylon is weak and doesn't flex... at all! It's brittle. Not a 4 bolt case. Bingo-Wing rear wheel floppage. What's my conclusion? I like it. It's the most inexpensive 1/5 scale car you can buy for what's included. Are there cheaper 1/5 scale cars out there? Yes. Do they include a pipe, decent servos with a great radio? Maybe. Do I care? No. This is a 1/5 scale car for T-Maxx money! I bought this car with the intention of setting the record straight, I was sick of self-proclaimed "experts" calling these "clones" and "junk". Most of these dorks are/were bent they spent 2-3 times as much and received much less with their HPI's. In my opinion, this version of the KM baja is the equivalent of an HPI baja 5b SS, but with a better pipe, bigger motor, radio gear, cool white parts that remind me of the original RC-10, and oh yeah it costs less than half than the HPI. What's there not to like? I give it 4 out of 5 stars.. So then why didn't I give it 5 stars? Because 5 stars means perfect, it's not perfect, nothing is. Unless this thing came from the factory programmed to bring me a beer and mow my lawn, it can never be perfect... But this is pretty close! Trip.. Here it is next to a Redcat Rampage XB.

I've had my Losi 5ive for a while now and haven't done much with it due to money being tight. I fitted some rear LEDs using a strip of black plastic cable tied in position and some led bezels with hot glue so they don't come loose. The front however is more difficult, I don't like the look for the multiple LED pods so off I went looking around for something else. After two weeks I settled on an idea! I brought some GU4 halogen spot light and set about cutting it to remove the 12vAC 30w lamp. I used an angle grinder to score the glass around the base and then used tile nibblers to brake it off at the score line, then I used small long nose pliers to brake the halogen lamp to remove it out of the small hole at the base. I then soldered up and hot glued two LEDs in the base of the light pod housing and used silicone to stick the newly made light pod into the base. It was a difficult and lengthily process but it's the perfect scale look that I was looking for. They are not as bright as the LED clusters and the glass will brake if I contact with anything (but that will only add the the realistic appearance) but very happy with the results and the whole project cost less than

i agree,if you buy a brand new model it should at least do what its supposed to do,i would certainly be miffed if i had purchased a new machine and it wouldnt even fire up,its not serving the purpose its ment for and therefore needs to be returned to where it was purchased from for exchange or refund,non of this sending the coil to be tested or send the carb off,thats not the way it should be,it might be worth the sellers running these km,s for 5 minutes to make sure all is ok before sending them out,that way whoever receives it wont be dissapointed upon arrival. this is just my view on the subject and in no way aimed at slating anyone.

The H2 Pro is an excellent car for the money, but I wouldn't say the manual was exactly clear. Two people I know with them followed the instructions to build in mid motor and still ended up with rear motor cars. Admittedly one was Jony Nitro, but the other person had some clue how to build a car

Bearing set and spur gear. I'm having a top day! And it's mi birthday!

Gotta say I'm very impressed! He bashes with me & I've got a savage flux & xs & my lad used to have a hyper 7E & he kept up with all the jumps we did! Shell still vgc so it's nice thick lexan even after some bad landings, he's only upgraded to the alloy hexes as we lost one, aside from that it's just been used! Oh the pinion came loose that was the only thing we've had go wrong so some loctite & we were using 3s on it an hour later. Overall for the money it's a worthy basher & I think it's a bargain! 5/5 bigjimrated, :-)

Has your O and caps lock key broken?

Lipo chargers

Hello! Up for sale is a scale Jeep Rubicon Hard Body. These are very rare in the UK and are only available from HK. The body shell was never used, it was modified to fit a Gelande 2 chassis but I decided I want my next project to be a D90 instead so this is up for grabs. Features: Full Interior 5mm LED Kit (6 total) 4xFront 2xRear - Powered by 9V battery Hard Plastic construction Scale spare wheel(screw mounted) DS-Pro Snorkel Custom number plates Opening doors Amazing detail; mirrors, wipers, door handles etc Sizes: Length: 475mm Width: 210mm Wheelbase(F-R): 270mm Will fit: SCX10 90020,90021,90018,D90 etc NOTE: This shell will require DIY mounting of your choice. PRICE:

HPI Trophy Truggy 4.6 | Upgrades + Spares |

Both my Gens Ace batteries are now flunked, I will not buy or recommend them. At 65 quid a pack I feel robbed. I beat the day lights out my Hyper 9e, and as my Gens Ace are hard pack, there is no reason why the cells are permanently now bodged. When in use one cell on both packs drops down to about 2v while the other cells are still at 3.8, which causes my cut-off to kick in. My cut off is set to 3.2 The Turnigy and Turnigy Nano-Tech which are all soft case, about 3 months older and take the same abuse are all fine. Personally, I would rate the Nano-Tech the better of the batteries, higher C rating, capacity and general bang for buck.

Racing on AstroTurf but are equally a good bashing tyre for wet grass and mud

I'll have it lol Any pics

He's right ^ part of this hobby is the whole maintenance/fixing/upgrading. If u want a model that doesn't need any of this then look here. http://www.toysrus.co.uk/browse/product/toys/radio-control-toys?topnav=Toys&subnav=Radio%2BControl%2BToys Best part of owning the baja for me was getting stuck in and working on it.

If that's how you see things, you won't get far in the large scale world chap. That's just a fact. Most large scales (well HPI, KM, Rovan etc..) Bajas come with no diff oils for example, or threadlock. You HAVE to maintain your RCs from opening the box. This is why so many people have so many problems from the off, they expect it to be 100% from the start, it simply doesn't work that way. It doesn't mater if you buy the cheapest set-up or the most expensive, they still need at least a basic understanding that not everything from the factory is perfect. You sometimes receive faulty brand new parts... Well so do the factories who put the Bajas together... With the fact they're brand new, faults aren't found until the owner starts them for the first time

Nah, dont agree with you in the slightest mate. This is an entry level large scale model. It should start out of the box with a little tuning. To need to change carbs or coils before the engine has even barked into life simply isnt cricket. Fine tuning is acceptable, but it not starting isnt Just my 2p If anyone doesnt like my opinions, I have plenty more to share!!;-) 8-) Gc

@honeybadger yeah the pin is bent i think i have spares somewhere so that should be good. I will be trying to fix it up on thur (just ordered the parts express so i can get them as soon as possible). thanks for all the help

Can't just lick his finger and stick it in the air like everyone else lol

firestorm thread has suggestions

How do you lot push your bullets into the EC5 placky things? (except Jas who's probably has a team of minions with special tools to do his)

image by JasJab, on Flickr image by JasJab, on Flickr Ready to build a few Planes

Lol this explains a lot Order Messages; No notes Bonus points: $1.88 - Auth By:Fanny Fanny - 14/01/2014 15:59 : 2NN06242NX494933A

Clutch mate, if their is one flaw in the 5ive (aside from the pipe) it's the clutch being enclosed, after just a few minutes you can feel the clutch fade. One small hole really does make a massive difference, after 40 minutes of flying round a field it was still going perfectly

just a point nuts and screws on my Losi 8ight buggy are imperial not metric m8

Centre diff ready to go in the savage: Just waiting for some wheels and battery boxes (already ordered). Then a bit soldering and it should be good to go.

My thoughts? The motor won't last long, the servo is bin fodder and the bodyshells are incredibly expensive. Sort those issues out and they're a hoot to drive. Did you read my thread?

Yeah, something like that

So your exposed bullets you fitted nearly caused a fire not the battery i sold ya, ya fool!

Anything Tokyo Flash. Brilliantly confusing things I have a Virus and enjoy trying to tell the time. http://www.tokyoflash.com/en/watches/1/ "Watch" out for fakes though on ebay and the like.

Wow lets start with don't buy Integy gears, that wouldn't be a good start their general product life/quality isn't very good. In regards to stripping gears you should get yourself a PCSC as they allow the stress of the engine to be transferred through the slipper pads rather than the gears or gearbox, a fully metal spur won't strip however it will transfer the damage through to the gearbox and diff. A enclosed clutch carrier would help protect the clutch from wearing.

That website is faker than Pam Anderson's vagina! The paypal logo is just ridiculous. So is the fact the you can actually believe you can buy a Traxxas XO-1 at 300+$ lol Tapatalk

Remember them? Some of my models still use them!! I can go back a good bit further - Simprop Digi 2 + 1 from late 60's, Launch Link from similar period and old Acoms with "T" handle and squarish servo plugs.

No mate it will charge your leccy wheelchair as well lol

Yup !!!

this thing has better internals than you do aj......nicer looking on the outside aswell.

Nah man truggy wheels/tyres have a bigger diameter (they're taller) than buggy wheels, as well as being wider! Buying a set of buggy wheels for a truggy would be like buying truggy wheels for a baja, it would just be so out of proportion and would most likely destroy the gears on your car!

hah a functioning bonnet awesome

The carb on my 002c came set about half a turn to lean on both lsn and hsn. Once adjusted to factory (see manual) it ran miles better.

Ok, cool. Go with the advice above if you get a set up station I can give you a more techy way to get an even feel. It's not crucial though.

that's correct, but the stock motor and esc is more than under powered they will fail, as has been proven

Quick update, ran the car with new electronics to see if they work. But the run was cut short by the pinion gear slipping out of position. Oh well simple fix!

If you have had it for 2 years and never changed anything i would say its time to take it apart. Sounds like a bearing but its probobly about time you gave it a service while you have it apart anyway. New diff and shock oils, bearings and a good clean.

Firefighter in London for 13 years and did a motor mechanics apprenticeship at VW before that

Professional lay about, cat stroker, domestic god, oil boiler, underwater sugar juggling coach and radio 2 listener. It's a hard life, but I knuckle down and get on with it.

I just figure as the weather is turning it helps as I remember back in the 80s when rain used to stop play with my old tamiyas, so if there waterproof it won't stop us, don't get me wrong I never drive my cars underwater, I just prefer not to have to miss puddles! My wife just said "he likes yours (savage flux) why can't you buy him one of them".......!

I believe radshaperc plan to do an aluminium panel set for the sandmaster, but I think the kyosho nexxt shell will fit to.

So...if it's the MT4 G3 with new clothes on...then it's basically ST-1 running gear front and back with a new bit in the middle taken from the MT4. The rear wing setup is clearly St-1 add on parts, as I fitted that to one I owned. Would make for a very solid truck, as I know the ST-1 was solid and reliable. If the electrics are up to it, then it should be decent. Not sure about running 6S on the supplied ESC....4S might be more sensible. Only one issue for me... THAT SHELL IS UGLY!!!!!!!

trike quad ok