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Maverick Blackout MT parts boxes rebuild


JonnyUK

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Figured I might as well start a thread about the 1/5 Blackout I've been slowly putting together and modifying along the way.

Slowly being buying a few old parts in boxes, loose parts, cheap old stock on ebay marketplace etc plus a smashed up model over the past 12 months or so.  Then decided to start trying to put it all together.

I know I could have just bought a RTR truck but I wanted a project plus, so far, its been cheaper.

Took a few photos along the way so I'll just add them here.

 

Screenshot 2024-02-18 224052 Screenshot 2024-02-18 224115 Screenshot 2024-02-18 223957 Screenshot 2024-02-18 224138 Screenshot 2024-02-18 223752 Screenshot 2024-02-18 224243 Screenshot 2024-02-18 223843 Screenshot 2024-02-18 224329 Screenshot 2024-02-18 223607 Screenshot 2024-02-18 223437 Screenshot 2024-02-18 223925

 

Managed to find one of these as 'new in packet' on ebay.  Most UK shops are out of stock of these and no expected stock date for some reason.

Screenshot 2024-02-18 223253

 

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I'll be using this radio and with the 10 channel receiver (no gyro).

It's budget but seems like a nice bit of kit and lots of features.

 

Screenshot 2024-02-18 230413

 

I have a bodyshell for it which needs painting, looks large enough so hopefully it'll fit.

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Every piece was taken apart and washed, then inspected to see if useable or not.

IMG_20231220_120952914 IMG_20231220_131901049_HDR IMG_20231220_131904905 IMG_20231220_170144082_HDR IMG_20231220_170154555_HDR IMG_20240112_162427248 IMG_20240111_113441384

 

All of the bearing are being replaced with good quality rubber shielded ones.

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Engine checked etc and put back together, not ran it yet but don't see why it shouldn't work.

Seen on youtube about the exhaust always coming loose due to vibrations.  So instead of the bolts I fixed studs into the head and then nuts on the outer.

 

IMG_20240121_184009118_HDR IMG_20240125_124811097

Carb mount is also converted to studs instead of bolts.

 

IMG_20240125_132316560_HDR

Cleaned the gunk and crystals out of the carb internals and made gaskets for the air filter, intake mount etc.

 

I have got a dust cover to fit over the pull start and air filter.

IMG_20240123_142236376_HDR

 

Need to find some pipe to make the rest of the exhaust yet.

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IMG_20240110_180044909 IMG_20240205_180540099

Went with stainless screw/bolts for most of the truck.

 

IMG_20240129_174236860 IMG_20240128_164723654 IMG_20240128_172611170 IMG_20240128_174632992 IMG_20240205_180531112

 

Sleeves over the cups because the rubber gaiters I bought were a bit too large.  Plus adds a bit of strength and stops me loosing the pins.

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Added extra bearing here.

IMG_20240126_125656591

 

Added grub screws to this piece.

IMG_20240131_135318051

Filed this shaft to suit the above mod.

IMG_20240131_175845522_HDR

Also added an extra bearing with spacers to the left shaft in above photo.  Seen online about the gear carrier on this shaft spinning on the shaft an not turning the bearings.  It's because of the oem design, tightening the nut normally just crushes the bearings due to no centre spacer or step on the shaft.  Adding a centre spacer allows you to tighten the nut and all of the force is on the bearing centres, so no damage to the bearing.  They did add a stepped shaft on the clutch shaft with a larger inner bearing, no idea why they didn't do the same to the middle shaft.

IMG_20240131_181337275_HDR

 

Minor setback due to dropping the chassis and breaking the part.

IMG_20240201_185610725_HDR

 

Edited by JonnyUK
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New transmission gear cover with a rubber gasket made and fit.

IMG_20240214_192939069_HDR IMG_20240214_195443920

 

Missing all the brass bushes for the steering centre piece.  Added a second bar so I could fit the wider bearings I had spare. 

IMG_20240214_193009766_HDR

 

IMG_20240214_193100524_HDR IMG_20240214_193137753_HDR IMG_20240214_195601030_HDR

 

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IMG_20240216_194425765

 

I also filed a flat onto each pin in all of the four wheel hex hubs.  Less chance of them coming loose, plus threadlock used.

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Todays effort was sorting out the steering servos.

I'll have to stay stock until sort the funds out for two new servos.

This one didn't work, wire broken on the cable to circuitboard.

Plus one of the motors brushes had come off of the soldered terminal.  Seems to work ok now and doesn't stall etc.

 

IMG_20240218_163639243_HDR

 

IMG_20240218_175644155_HDR

 

Already have a new small servo in my parts drawer so will use it for the throttle/brake.

 

And that's where I'm up to today, should hopefully get time to do a bit more soon. 😁

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23 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

certainly progressing well :good:

 

Enjoying this one, I'll be disappointed when it's finished to be honest. 

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Well sorting the electronics has come to a halt, the dumborc receiver I got last month is dead. 

First time I've tried it today 🥺

Trying to sort it out with AliExpress but it's like pulling teeth. 

 

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Receiver is definitely dead, not heard about a refund/replacement yet 🤨

IMG_20240220_133128395

 

So did a bit of mounting the servos etc and slipped some plastic over braid on the cables.

Not sure if the alloy servo horns I got will work, bit too short. I'll either extend them or just fit the plastic ones.

IMG_20240219_165024983_HDR

 

IMG_20240219_165035759_HDR

 

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This evening I started cleaning the wheels up.

The chromed plastic on the bead lock rings was scraped and tatty so cleaned that off of all eight.  If anyone needs any chrome I'm pretty sure most of it is in my lungs 🙄

 

Did think about painting the rings but it won't last one outing off-road.

Swapped the screws for stainless self tappers.

 

IMG_20240221_125007507

 

IMG_20240221_165049934

 

IMG_20240221_183836139_HDR

 

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Hmm...

How much fun is it trying to sort something out with a manufacturer based in Japan/China, I reply during the day, they reply during the night, and repeat 😑

 

Anyways, they directed me to a video, in Chinese/Japanese, and it does show them wiring up the X10F receiver.  They advised me that I'd done it wrong hence the video.

Looking at this photo of the receiver:

IMG_20240223_125217586~2

 

There are the ten channel sockets, external LED socket, PPM socket (something to do with flying autopilot), and B+ B- which I assumed was for battery + and -

It appears not, the B+ B- is for the battery voltage monitoring return to the transmitter.  

No instructions in the box to explain any of this by the way.

This is a still from their official video:

Screenshot_20240223-120908-113~2

 

The arrow shows where they power the receiver, in a channel socket, any of the ten sockets actually.

So the ten channel receiver is a nine channel receiver, ten channel transmitter, nine usable channels on the receiver.

I'm waiting to hear back from the 'official' Dumborc retailer but it would appear to me that they forgot to include a proper way of plugging a battery into the receiver when they designed it.

 

Figured I'm stuck with it now because they'll just claim I wired it up wrong etc, I will keep messaging though for a while and see where it gets to.

 

So I took the box apart out of curiosity and during testing with the probes I slipped and blew a tiny track.  Managed to replace the track by soldering on a tiny wire.

Plugged in the battery how they show and it does work now, so that's good.

Looking at the board though I spot another potential problem.  I specifically ordered the non gyro receiver because gyros cause problems with the remote kill switch failsafes.

 

IMG_20240223_173611261~2

 

The 'G' is the receiver with built in gyro, the casing is X10F not X10FG.

So either they use the same circuit boards but don't fit the gyro or its the same receiver but with a different sticker on the outside.

I have been trying to read the numbers on the chips and google them to see if any are a gyro chip, I'm presuming it would be a chip??

Not had any luck so it may of may not work with the remote kill switch.

 

IMG_20240223_173723921_HDR

 

I did get on with sorting the wiring and added the feed for the voltage return, switch, and soldering other cables etc.  Then realised it won't fit in the box on the rc properly so Sunday I'm going to bin what I did and start over again.  Think I'm going to go with having the lipo outside of the box so it'll give me more room to work with.  Cramped wiring and vibrations are only going to lead to broken wires or fires.  There are a couple of places I should be able to fit another box for the lipo.

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it could be that the firmware for 1 with gyro and your 1 is different and gyro isnt enabled

 

all i can suggest is try it and see if your kill switch works 

its probably cheaper for them to build all the boards the same and use firmware/software to make gyro work or not 

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Can't finalise the wiring yet because I do need two new servos, one is ok but the other goes haywire when let go of the steering wheel.  Don't want to risk burning anything out.  Will have to wait until have the funds.  So just been sorting a few other things.

Moved two of the plastic cross braces on the 'cage' so that it misses the larger air filter.

 

IMG_20240228_135017936_HDR

 

Then made the relocated battery tray out of some aluminium.  I already have two 1300mAh 2s lipos which I use for the UDR's fans and lights.  Made the tray a little larger in case I need to fit a larger battery.  Its bolted to the steering brace so zero chance of movement. 

 

IMG_20240228_134631646_HDR

 

IMG_20240228_134810207_HDR

 

IMG_20240228_134722734_HDR

 

And this is the  receiver box from the other day, more room inside for the receiver, wiring, remote kill switch etc plus don't have the hassle of removing the top to change/remove the battery.   Deans connector on outside plus a spare switch I had and two leds for power on and the Dynamite engine kill active or not.

 

IMG_20240228_134830173_HDR

 

 

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What i did for mine for charging the large hump pack was cut a very small slot in the lid and have the charging connector outside the box and charge it that way so i dont have to take the lid off all the time

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