wolfie1 Posted May 10, 2023 Share Posted May 10, 2023 (edited) So since i got my first lipo powered vehicle about 6 weeks ago now, i was quite impressed with the 2 hour run time and simplicity of just turning it on, i still think fuel powered cars have their place though. Anyway i decided my fleet needed a lipo powered basher kinda thing as i def had a jaded view of electric power, which stemmed from back in the 90’s when run times was 10 minutes if you were lucky so since i have a Blackout already and am very happy with, running out of fuel is the limiting factor to run times with it with the correct upgrades on it, so i seen the Maverick Quantum +XT Flux ,(that name really needs work) and the price was right so bought 1, it arrived today and i have a few bits coming for it to give it reliability, that being said i spent a while when it first arrived to make sure things were tight and loctited which was a plus, as it was going to fail out of the box as the grub screws holding the drive cups on were not tight and no loctite on them either, in fact only 1 screw had loctite on it on the whole model, the gear mesh between spur and motor was way too tight, so sorted them things changed the rear wing mount and swapped the receiver for a flysky 1 and the steering servo to a etonix 20kg, set all the setting on the hobbywing card thing and took it for a blast, wow im glad i fitted a wheely bar to it as it likes doing them, ran 2 batteries through it without a problem, is 25 minutes out of a 5300mah 3s lipo right as i got way longer on the trx4 with a 5000mah 3c lipo? Edited August 5, 2023 by wolfie1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted May 10, 2023 Share Posted May 10, 2023 Very nice mate I think the run time is right as the trx4 isnt a high speed basher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 10, 2023 Author Share Posted May 10, 2023 9 minutes ago, Stormbringer said: Very nice mate I think the run time is right as the trx4 isnt a high speed basher Thank you, i was hoping to get longer run times from it but if thats it thats it, i did buy the plug converter doofer so i can run the traxxas batteries in it and vice versa. When i got the car the punch was set to 3 i turned it up to 5, will that have a major impact on the run times? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted May 10, 2023 Share Posted May 10, 2023 Possibly more punch more current out of battery to move it of start line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James.S Posted May 11, 2023 Share Posted May 11, 2023 25 minutes sounds about a right for that battery in that car. I only get about 20 minutes run time out of my 6000mah 3s lipos in my MT10. But it's also about how you drive. A lot of full throttle bashing & high speed runs and you're guaranteed to run out of juice pretty quickly. When i'm running my 8th scale truggy on my 6000mah 4s it actually lasts longer, even though the RC is much heavier. I get 35-40 minutes run time. But I reckon it's because i'm not bashing it as hard, or driving it as fast as I do my 10th scale models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 11, 2023 Author Share Posted May 11, 2023 Thanks for the input, i did want a bigger capacity battery but the only ones that would have fitted were 6800mah traxxas ones but they were double the price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 12, 2023 Author Share Posted May 12, 2023 Just a quick question, i have just noticed on this model the wires A & C from the speed controller go the opposite positions to each other on the motor, now the car runs properly, is this a cheat way instead of using the programme card to change the motor direction? If i were to put them to the corresponding places ie A to A and C to C and changed the motor direction on the programming card is this the correct thing to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 12, 2023 Author Share Posted May 12, 2023 So added some aluminium stuff to this today, as who doesnt like some bling, also fitted some uprated lower arms as reading up they are a weak spot on this thing 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 16, 2023 Author Share Posted May 16, 2023 So i have come across a major design flaw with this truck, the mount which holds the motor on is angled towards the spur gear and it kept slipping and becoming too tight on the spur causing damage, bought the uprated alloy part and it still does it, so i wanted to come up with a solution that didnt involve totally taking the truck to bits for routine maintenance and im confident that i have, i still need to test it mind, the mounting point coming through the chassis was going to be where my mod was going to happen as all you need to do is take off that 1 set screw and with a long allen key gain access to the long grub screw, so drilled a hole right through the motor mount, taped out the hole, pushed my long allen key through, put the grub screw on the end and backed it into the new threads, so once you get your gear mesh correct, you tighten the grub screw against the bottom of the motor slider and it bites in and hopefully not slip, then just put your set screw back through the chassis into the motor mount, well thats the theory anyway but it has marked the old engine slider so i have high hopes for this (famous last words) 🤣🤣 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted May 16, 2023 Share Posted May 16, 2023 Ingenious idea 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 22, 2023 Author Share Posted May 22, 2023 So this mod has been throughly tested now and it is a resounding success, have run a few battery’s through it and it hasnt moved a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 25, 2023 Author Share Posted May 25, 2023 This is a new 1 on me, had the outward pins snap or wear out but this! Wow! Got some hd ones ordered so here hoping these last as the oe certainly didnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted May 26, 2023 Share Posted May 26, 2023 Has it been rubbing on something ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted May 26, 2023 Author Share Posted May 26, 2023 (edited) There was a stone in there but it wasn’t in contact, probably was sometimes, still though trophy truggy is pretty much identical in setup and have never had this happen in all the years of ownership, i feel this car was sold cheap but you need to buy all the hop up options to make it decent, so a cheap model ends up not so cheap at the end of it, i did all the diff cases to aluminium and i should have done the hd drives that came out of them whilst i was doing the swap Edited May 26, 2023 by wolfie1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 After seeing them cool net things to protect the chassis from debris I decided that i needed 1 for this car especially after snapping a propshaft but the motor in this thing gets hot, so got the biggest fan i could find that would fit the heat sink and soldered on a connector to get power from the receiver. The other day i was out on some local sand dunes and because of the centre diff on a steep slope it was just bogging out so needed some new tyres too, so found these ones that are sold for Arrma and they were the same size and hub fitment and cheap, they arrived today but haven’t had a chance to try them out yet but since they look like badlands and they are brilliant on the trophy truggy i have a good feeling about them, plus of course they look well cool 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted July 15, 2023 Author Share Posted July 15, 2023 After a little bit of advice, so with installing the net thing which was a massive success on keeping stones out but have come across an issue, the heat in there now is getting so much i am seeing what i think is the centre diff. melting on each end where the bearings sit, obviously this is not a good thing and i could remove the net thing to allow the air to circulate better again but really want the net. I have bought a blower fan and was thinking of incorporating that somehow or maybe a bit of pipe coming from the front forcing cool air through it and exiting at the centre diff, anyone have another solution/idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted July 15, 2023 Share Posted July 15, 2023 Could the bearings be on way out ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted July 15, 2023 Share Posted July 15, 2023 I've seized bearings, this caused diff mount to melt. Worth checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted July 15, 2023 Author Share Posted July 15, 2023 Now i did think that initially but they are free as you like with no roughness or play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfie1 Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 This is the solution i have come up with to help with cooling on the centre diff, the fan i fitted is a centrifugal type which shifts way more air than a fan type so heres hoping it does the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locky Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 I think you may need to cut holes in net around the heat sources in order for the hot air to escape as the net will still restrict air flow. Every solution has a side effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.