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Maverick Quantum Flux


wolfie1

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So since i got my first lipo powered vehicle about 6 weeks ago now, i was quite impressed with the 2 hour run time and simplicity of just turning it on, i still think fuel powered cars have their place though.

Anyway i decided my fleet needed a lipo powered basher kinda thing as i def had a jaded view of electric power, which stemmed from back in the 90’s when run times was 10 minutes if you were lucky  so since i have a Blackout already and am very happy with, running out of fuel is the limiting factor to run times with it with the correct upgrades on it, so i seen the Maverick Quantum +XT Flux ,(that name really needs work) and the price was right so bought 1, it arrived today and i have a few bits coming for it to give it reliability, that being said i spent a while when it first arrived to make sure things were tight and loctited which was a plus, as it was going to fail out of the box as the grub screws holding the drive cups on were not tight and no loctite on them either, in fact only 1 screw had loctite on it on the whole model, the gear mesh between spur and motor was way too tight, so sorted them things changed the rear wing mount and swapped the receiver for a flysky 1 and the steering servo to a etonix 20kg, set all the setting on the hobbywing card thing and took it for a blast, wow im glad i fitted a wheely bar to it as it likes doing them, ran 2 batteries through it without a problem, is 25 minutes out of a 5300mah 3s lipo right as i got way longer on the trx4 with a 5000mah 3c lipo?

 

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Edited by wolfie1
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9 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

Very nice mate :good:

I think the run time is right as the trx4 isnt a high speed basher 

Thank you, i was hoping to get longer run times from it but if thats it thats it, i did buy the plug converter doofer  so i can run the traxxas batteries in it and vice versa. When i got the car the punch was set to 3 i turned it up to 5, will that have a major impact on the run times? 

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25 minutes sounds about a right for that battery in that car. I only get about 20 minutes run time out of my 6000mah 3s lipos in my MT10. 

But it's also about how you drive. A lot of full throttle bashing & high speed runs and you're guaranteed to run out of juice pretty quickly. When i'm running my 8th scale truggy on my 6000mah 4s it actually lasts longer, even though the RC is much heavier. I get 35-40 minutes run time. But I reckon it's because i'm not bashing it as hard, or driving it as fast as I do my 10th scale models.

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Just a quick question, i have just noticed on this model the wires A & C from the speed controller go the opposite positions to each other on the motor, now the car runs properly, is this a cheat way instead of using the programme card to change the motor direction? If i were to put them to the corresponding places ie A to A and C to C and changed the motor direction on the programming card is this the correct thing to do?

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So i have come across a major design flaw with this truck, the mount which holds the motor on is angled towards the spur gear and it kept slipping and becoming too tight on the spur causing damage, bought the uprated alloy part and it still does it, so i wanted to come up with a solution that didnt involve totally taking the truck to bits for routine maintenance and im confident that i have, i still need to test it mind, the mounting point coming through the chassis was going to be where my mod was going to happen as all you need to do is take off that 1 set screw and with a long allen key gain access to the long grub screw, so drilled a hole right through the motor mount, taped out the hole, pushed my long allen key through, put the grub screw on the end and backed it into the new threads, so once you get your gear mesh correct, you tighten the grub screw against the bottom of the motor slider and it bites in and hopefully not slip, then just put your set screw back through the chassis into the motor mount, well thats the theory anyway but it has marked the old engine slider so i have high hopes for this (famous last words) 🤣🤣

 

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There was a stone in there but it wasn’t in contact, probably was sometimes, still though trophy truggy is pretty much identical in setup and have never had this happen in all the years of ownership, i feel this car was sold cheap but you need to buy all the hop up options to make it decent, so a cheap model ends up not so cheap at the end of it, i did all the diff cases to aluminium and i should have done the hd drives that came out of them whilst i was doing the swap

Edited by wolfie1
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  • 2 weeks later...

After seeing them cool net things to protect the chassis from debris I decided that i needed 1 for this  car especially after snapping a propshaft but the motor in this thing gets hot, so  got the biggest fan i could find that would fit the heat sink and soldered on a connector to  get power from the receiver.

The other day i was out on some local sand dunes and because of the centre diff on a steep slope it was just bogging out so needed some new tyres too, so found these ones that are sold for Arrma and they were the same size and hub fitment and cheap, they arrived today but haven’t had a chance to try them out yet but since they look like badlands and they are brilliant on the trophy truggy i have a good feeling about them, plus of course they look well cool

 

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  • 1 month later...

After a little bit of advice, so with installing the net thing which was a massive success on keeping stones out but have come across an issue, the heat in there now is getting so much i am seeing what i think is the centre diff. melting on each end where the bearings sit, obviously this is not a good thing and i could remove the net thing to allow the air to circulate better again but really want the net. I have bought a blower fan and was thinking of incorporating that somehow or maybe a bit of pipe coming from the front forcing cool air through it and exiting at the centre diff, anyone have another solution/idea?

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This is the solution i have come up with to help with cooling on the centre diff, the fan i fitted is a centrifugal type which shifts way more air than a fan type so heres hoping it does the job

 

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  • wolfie1 changed the title to Maverick Quantum Flux

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