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Team Associated - Reedy electronics


MW2021

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Dear All. I recently purchased two kits : a  TA/Reedy B74.1 and a B6.2D. These are by far the most expensive cars I have bought to date. I am pretty new to RC cars but these seemed to be two very good cars albeit for slightly different purposes. I have yet to buy the electronics for both of them and wondered what the consensus was on the following bits of kit?

 

Schuur speed V3 or V4 motor. BK servo DS 7002HV. Reedy zappers Lipo battery (I'm not quite sure what size I need) . MIP puck system. Reedy black box speed control. Sanwa receiver

 

As regards useful upscaled components I was also thinking about: the MIP puck systems, plastic gearing, rear plastic pills, anodised inserts?

 

Can you give me your thoughts on this and any tips on anything else I might need? Thank you kindly in advance

 

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What turn motor are you planning on running?

 

I'd personally look at Hobbywing ESC rather than the Reedy. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-xerun-xr10-pro-v4-g2-black-441381 or cheaper https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-wp8bl150-bl-esc-382834

 

Servo should be fine. Never used them myself. I personally have ran Savox 1258 or 1257 for years and they work great. 

 

I'd only look at plastic gearing if you're running stock 17.5 or 21.5 class. Same for the puck system. Not needed for mod motors. Rear pills are fine been plastic. Both cars out the box don't really need anything. Alloy parts for steering are nice though. Alloy or brass bulkhead for durability. 

 

Battery wise you want a shorty pack of 3500mah or higher ideally with high discharge rating.

 

Unsure if you're planning on racing or bashing?

 

 

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You've got two very capable RCs however they are "race" buggys but you can still bash them but many would say that's overkill.  In terms of electronics having an idea of your budget would help.

 

 

I've had the b4, b5m, b6 and B44.2 and in terms of durability other than general wear they hold up very well and I'd leave them stock. Most upgrades are performance based but many leave them stock. 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

 

I just bought a second hand Associated B6d, which is in perfect nick (rolling chassis only). I do plan on taking it offroad, but nothing bonkers. I simultaneously bought electronics from it from a different seller. Not sure if they were for this car as that wasn't specified in the ad, but I figured the set-up was probably taken out of one. I got a Hobbywing 120ESC, Speed Passion 10.5T and a HiTec 5925MG Servo along with three 2S LIPO batteries (3500-3800). 110C, 100C and a 25C (i'm guessing the throw-in battery). I never had shorty batteries, so this is a decent start. I also bought a Goldbat 4500 50c battery (before I saw the other listing, so may sell that one on, depending...as it is actually new and I've no idea how many times the used ones have been charged/disc-charged, but they were in storage mode when I first charged them, so reckon the bloke looked after them).

 

One thing I was told was that it's essential to buy a servo that can pull 7kgs plus. As I discovered, you will maybe need an additional 8mm long ball stud to fit the servo arm to the car, as the one I bought was removed (prob with the original servo). If you've bought a new car then no issues. I shoved in an old Tamiya ballstud and the size of the fitment seems good (although not long enough), so I am expecting to have to change this not long after I get the car running. Just want to see if it works first. I'm also just about on the baseline of what a servo should pull for this car. Think mine is 7.5kgs.

 

I also got a Hobbywing Prog Card with the electronics buy and the Speed Passion motor is sensored. I didn't bother with 'sensored' in the past and when a total noob, but I found my other car was lagging before it kicked in (bit like a turbo on a real car!). A sensor wire sorted that out for me. Could have been my novice set-up, don't quote me, but it made the car wayyy more responsive (that car was a Tamiya though).

 

Wanted to stick with a 24 tooth pinion, but one is on order. I have a 21 Tooth lying around, so going to shove that on and see what happens, with 78, or 81 stock (I'm guessing Spur gear...as I didn't build it!).

 

Disclaimer; i've not run this car yet as just received everything today, so prob best to go with the experts on here! All the same; it looks impressive!

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 

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An update from me. I ran the car for the first time a day ago.  Ran very smoothly for a long time on tarmac with the 4500 battery. Totally stable. Not a crazy amount of traction on dustier sections (with good tyres). Towards the end of the run the steering went a bit, so I figured the shut-off on the LIPO kicked in. However, the servo horn had started detaching from the servo spline. The 'horn' I got with the car is plastic. Tightened it all up. Was going to go for a Reedy servo (expensive), or Savox (which draws alot of Amps), but starting to think an aluminium, or titanium 'horn' instead would actually be better and cheaper as my Hitec servo is already superfast.

 

Anyone have any ideas, what would be best?

 

Cheers

 

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12 hours ago, Turnipheid said:

An update from me. I ran the car for the first time a day ago.  Ran very smoothly for a long time on tarmac with the 4500 battery. Totally stable. Not a crazy amount of traction on dustier sections (with good tyres). Towards the end of the run the steering went a bit, so I figured the shut-off on the LIPO kicked in. However, the servo horn had started detaching from the servo spline. The 'horn' I got with the car is plastic. Tightened it all up. Was going to go for a Reedy servo (expensive), or Savox (which draws alot of Amps), but starting to think an aluminium, or titanium 'horn' instead would actually be better and cheaper as my Hitec servo is already superfast.

 

Anyone have any ideas, what would be best?

 

Cheers

 

 

Did you check the teeth on the servo spline? HITEC sometimes use 24t splines so if you forced on a 23t or 25t it would come loose. 

 

 

I'd get the correct steering links and ball stud, then buy the correct horn for your servo in plastic. A plastic servo horn is sacrificial to protect the servo. No point buying a new servo until you've sorted out the steering links. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks, both. I've not bought anything more for the car yet, as not had a chance to run again. I did tighten it all up though, so, i'll see how it goes on the next run (when I get a chance!). 

 

I will definitely check the teeth again on the spline, before I take her out.

 

In general, where's the best place to buy spares for Associated, in the UK?

 

Cheers

 

 

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1 hour ago, Turnipheid said:

Thanks, both. I've not bought anything more for the car yet, as not had a chance to run again. I did tighten it all up though, so, i'll see how it goes on the next run (when I get a chance!). 

 

I will definitely check the teeth again on the spline, before I take her out.

 

In general, where's the best place to buy spares for Associated, in the UK?

 

Cheers

 

 

Most shops sell them, I liked DMS racing as they offered well priced shipping and next day service. 

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Alex, thanks. I'll check that out. I did take the car out for another run and yep, the steering went. Now bought a 24t spline, althogh not fitted yet, so hopefully that will sort it out. Randomly though the car lost reception over 100 metres, so I'm probably going to have to upgrade the Transmitter now....gah.

 

Cheers

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6 hours ago, Turnipheid said:

Alex, thanks. I'll check that out. I did take the car out for another run and yep, the steering went. Now bought a 24t spline, althogh not fitted yet, so hopefully that will sort it out. Randomly though the car lost reception over 100 metres, so I'm probably going to have to upgrade the Transmitter now....gah.

 

Cheers

If you get stuck just ask 🐷

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Ok, so I fit the after market aluminium 24 tooth spline and the servo boots it all the time, as in, the servo arm dis-connects immediately, so no steering. The servo horn is tight and doesn't give up, but the ball joint disconnects constantly. At least the car run for a good hour before the last spline disconnected. Should I just buy an Associated plastic servo arm?

 

Argh, I really should have not starting messing with this car when I bought it. ..it was running sweet!

 

Cheers

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