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The Axial RBX10 Ryft Owners Thread!


.AJ.

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  • 2 weeks later...
13 minutes ago, .AJ. said:

So in the end I bought a set of Vitavon knuckles, I spoke to them about putting a parts package together and they did me a killer deal on a set of knuckles, trailing arms, sway bar kit and a servo bash guard 👍 

 

FB5-C1318-B0-B3-460-B-A95-A-F6-D017-A3-B

 

96902701-DAE2-4236-96-D1-7817-CCB591-F7.


B23-B0-C63-A4-D8-4217-B3-C9-A30-E8152-BB

 

EEE6-DF7-D-5402-4-BB0-B78-A-E0-C5-C364-D
 

90-FB13-CA-B27-E-4-E5-D-875-D-7054-A03-C

Looks epic

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  • 1 month later...

Picked up a set of alloy brake rotors/wheel hex, I’m not normally a fan of GPM, but been told these are decent 

 

C9-D0-A6-E0-C9-AD-41-E3-BB4-F-CFEBB87-D0

 

One thing I didn’t see in the sales pics are they are only  re machined on one side, so after a few licks with a file and they look much better 

 

E73615-CA-CFA4-4-ED2-8-FC5-B555495-C5183

 

Before 

 

D7-E182-A9-5-F0-C-48-FB-B963-DD7420748-B
 

After 

 

552-C51-B4-815-C-4225-9719-A95-BD72-BFC7
 

I’ll give them a proper polish at some point though 👍 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi folks, I haven't given my ryft much love or use of late as been a manic 6 months or so.  

 

I have something going on with my rear diff and need to look at it / rebuild.  I was thinking about locking it.  What is the perceived wisdom? Should I lock?  Should I lock all three?

 

At the moment it is totally stock.  I do have the sway bar kit to add and also a 2 speed (should i bother with that?) thanks for any thoughts.  

 

It is used really for bashing around very hilly woods with some challenging climbs

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The 2 speed is a pain, I’ve fitted it to both my Ryfts, the first I ended up removing it and the second still has it, but locked in low gear, I do run a pretty nuts motor in the second one and needed it to be geared down loads to be useable 😂

 

Diff wise i run locked rear and centre and the front is open with a mix of silicone ear plug and bit of oil, so probably around 20 million weight 

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30 minutes ago, .AJ. said:

The 2 speed is a pain, I’ve fitted it to both my Ryfts, the first I ended up removing it and the second still has it, but locked in low gear, I do run a pretty nuts motor in the second one and needed it to be geared down loads to be useable 😂

 

Diff wise i run locked rear and centre and the front is open with a mix of silicone ear plug and bit of oil, so probably around 20 million weight 

 

Thanks, I figured it might be irritating, having something else in there to go wrong.  I have the truck partially disassembled so may be I will do middle and rear and see how i go.

 

I am running stock motor and esc at the mo may be that should be next on the list

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So took the ryft apart after it's run on Tuesday.  One diff had died completely.  Almost no teeth left on the gears. So used a Christmas voucher for to order a couple of SSD lockers.  Ordered yesterday and they arrived first thing this morning.  Amazing stuff from rcbitz as always.  A box of scale stuff a mate posted on the 20th also arrived this morning. Crazy stuff from the royal mail.  

This afternoons job is fine lockers and swap the servo for a better option.  

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I’ve got SSD lockers in the rear and centre of mine, they are much better quality than the Axial ones, my front has a Vitavon diff cup and stock gears, you soon realise how crappy the tolerances of the stock cups are, I even added 2 extra shims under the diffs gears and they are still really smooth, unlike the notchy stock set up 

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Rear for my one is a treal one I got at the SST event in September. I was thinking of going the same way with a front open diff.  But this is cheaper and easier at the moment.  See how it goes with them all locked.  Can always upgrade the front to open again at some point 

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Not had the chance to try it fully locked.  But with an open front I think the steering is slightly better.  Generally everyone who has a ryft says to go fully Locked.  Or upgrade diff cups and gears and run a high weight oil to semi lock it. 

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40 minutes ago, Hell horn. said:

Not had the chance to try it fully locked.  But with an open front I think the steering is slightly better.  Generally everyone who has a ryft says to go fully Locked.  Or upgrade diff cups and gears and run a high weight oil to semi lock it. 

 

Thanks.  Just had the dispatch note on my diff lockers so I guess I will find out soon.

 

Also got a capra on the way from the market hopefully so may be slightly distracted by that!

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Hay all, 

 

Just bought a ryft, while waiting for it to come is there any thing I should be getting for out the box running?

 

Although I have other cars I have been out the hobby for a few years so don't have any consumables etc....

 

Cheer

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1 hour ago, .AJ. said:

I would pick up a rear sway bar kit and make sure you have a 8mm nut driver for the wheel nuts. Also I would stick to 3s, they are lunatics on 4s 😂

Hmm

 

I don't actually have any 3s batteries.  Only 2 s. I'll order some I think. 

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I'd say get some spare wheel nuts.  Has a tendency to lose them.  Ifbykur changing wheels at some point.  Get the SSD ryft hubs and sort the issue out.  

Again I agree with a rear sway bar set.   I'd also lock the rear diff and drop in some heavy diff oil in front and middle.  I run 2mill oil in my diffs. Makes a massive difference to it.  

I run my one on 3s and it's got tons of power.  4s is pushing on the insanity level switch.  Fun but tricky to control.  

 I'd also get a bag of rod ends as spares.  The front lower links tend to kill them. 

The stock servo isn't very powerful so a better one is a good choice when you can.  Other then that.  Give it some abuse and enjoy it. 

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