m4inbrain Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 No. The Typhon 3s is pretty much exactly the same size as the Vorza, but noticeably lighter. The Typhon 3s is a 1/8th in disguise. It's based on a 1/10th SCT, but 1/10th SCTs are basically 1/8th buggy sized. It's pretty stupid that way, the DB Pro has the same "issue". The Typhon is 52ish centimetres (20.5 inches, roughly) in length. Which makes it, the same size as actual 1/8th buggies, but the drivetrain (motor/esc etc) is all 1/10th. .. if that makes sense. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 thanks for that, im not really that bothered about the size, would have been better if it was smaller but still ok 🙂 just found out it takes ec5 connector, wth!! i prefer deans as all my lipo takes them, either i try solder a brand new car or just get an ec5 to deans adapter, i know what you guys will say........solder deans connector to the esc but easy said than done 😞 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 (edited) I don't think anyone is gonna tell you to solder deans to anything bud. 😄 They'll tell you to go with the times and either transition to EC5 on everything, or XT90 on everything. 😛 I soldered my Traxxas Maxx the day i got it (from that stupid traxxas connector to XT90), but i already ordered an EC5 to XT90 (my batteries are all XT90) adapter for the Losi. No shame in running an adapter. That said: just get a soldering station and get into it. Soldering is really easy once you understand how to make solder flow (for a while i didn't realise i have to heat both "parts" to make solder flow and couldn't get nice joints), and it's cheap, so just "training" with it is a good way to do it. And it's a reasonably essential skill to RC wrenching, i would argue. That's just me though, i bet if you'd send the ESC to one of the members here, he'd solder it for you no problem. Edited March 18, 2021 by m4inbrain 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 😄 good point on the deans, no one will tell me to solder deans as no body likes it 😄 few years back people used to say it is safer without the adapter so best way is to solder the connector you want. i have bought a solder iron but this will be my first ever car i bought and i know i will mess it up but yeah, might go with what you said and post the esc to a member on here, that seems a better option 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Frosty Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Just get some scrap bits of cable and practise soldering then unsoldering, then soldering again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 The IC5s while not cheap are easier to solder than normal EC5 connector's imo. Definitely worth practicing and getting the hang of soldering as being able to do it is incredibly useful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Never soldered IC5s, but EC5s are awful to solder. Well.. Not necessarily to solder - to assemble. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 IC5s are very similar to xt60/90s to solder so you don't have to try and wrestle the bullet into the plastic shroud thing unlike the EC5s which are a pain to say the least. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Didn't know - how does that "smart pin" thing go in there, crimp or also soldered? On my Spektrum Firma 130 there's three cables going into the connector (a tiny one for the SMART stuff). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 1 hour ago, froggy8 said: 😄 good point on the deans, no one will tell me to solder deans as no body likes it 😄 few years back people used to say it is safer without the adapter so best way is to solder the connector you want. i have bought a solder iron but this will be my first ever car i bought and i know i will mess it up but yeah, might go with what you said and post the esc to a member on here, that seems a better option 🙂 Genuinely, just get a set of connectors of hobbyking, a few scrap wires, and get to it. As i said, i'm very convinced anyone here would solder it for you no problem, but it's better to be able to do it yourself, for all kinds of reasons. It's a skill to have, and with C19 and whatnot there's not much to do anyway. I don't see why it'd be safer without an adapter. I generally rather have my connector soldered than adapted, but that's just for convenience. In terms of safety there's no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersavage Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 54 minutes ago, m4inbrain said: Didn't know - how does that "smart pin" thing go in there, crimp or also soldered? On my Spektrum Firma 130 there's three cables going into the connector (a tiny one for the SMART stuff). Just solders on as there's just a little connector in between the two main ones. Obviously won't need to solder anything to it unless you're using a spektrum smart ESC/battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 what is the difference between the brushed and brushless version? apart from the brushless esc and motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 2 hours ago, froggy8 said: what is the difference between the brushed and brushless version? apart from the brushless esc and motor. They're mostly the same, but the power system isn't a direct swap. My buddy had the brushless system of his Big Rock sitting around (same that's in the brushless Typhon 3s), thought he could save a buck by getting the brushed Typhon and just plonk the brushless parts in - didn't work. It's not a direct swap. Shocks etc are the same, though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 1 hour ago, m4inbrain said: They're mostly the same, but the power system isn't a direct swap. My buddy had the brushless system of his Big Rock sitting around (same that's in the brushless Typhon 3s), thought he could save a buck by getting the brushed Typhon and just plonk the brushless parts in - didn't work. It's not a direct swap. Shocks etc are the same, though. yeah i was going to do that too 😄 strange how its different in that layout. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 14 hours ago, m4inbrain said: Genuinely, just get a set of connectors of hobbyking, a few scrap wires, and get to it. As i said, i'm very convinced anyone here would solder it for you no problem, but it's better to be able to do it yourself, for all kinds of reasons. It's a skill to have, and with C19 and whatnot there's not much to do anyway. I don't see why it'd be safer without an adapter. I generally rather have my connector soldered than adapted, but that's just for convenience. In terms of safety there's no difference. Have to disagree with your last statement. There's a much greater risk with an plug adaptor than a properly soldered joint. Any plug or connection is inherently more risky than a soldered - and in effect - one piece cable. You'll get failures at plugs and connectors in general and far fewer in general one piece cable runs. The risk goes up if you've got poor fitting or worn connectors which will deteriorate over time. Deans plugs can loose their spring force for example. Less contact area = more resistance = more heat = more potential failure. Not saying that it especially matters in RC car use where current / voltage / power isn't that high - but it used to be a very big deal when I worked with 280kVA Power Amplifiers! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 2 hours ago, DAL3D said: Have to disagree with your last statement. There's a much greater risk with an plug adaptor than a properly soldered joint. Any plug or connection is inherently more risky than a soldered - and in effect - one piece cable. You'll get failures at plugs and connectors in general and far fewer in general one piece cable runs. The risk goes up if you've got poor fitting or worn connectors which will deteriorate over time. Deans plugs can loose their spring force for example. Less contact area = more resistance = more heat = more potential failure. Not saying that it especially matters in RC car use where current / voltage / power isn't that high - but it used to be a very big deal when I worked with 280kVA Power Amplifiers! .. sure. If you work power station levels of voltage/amperage, sure. I wouldn't know. In an RC it's nonsense, especially in a low powered one like the T3s. The deans plug losing spring force is deans exclusive - and more importantly, isn't exclusive to the adapter. It'll still lose spring tension if you connect it directly, at the same rate - it doesn't differ between plugging it into a deans ESC or deans adapter. If we're talking an adapter soldered by dynamite for example (my ones), running factory ESC connector into dynamite adapter into factory battery connectors is probably safer than running a poop solder joint, which i see way too often in used RCs. Every used RC i get gets resoldered even if it has the correct connector. I'm running adapters ever since i got into the hobby on certain RCs for differing reasons - not once did i have even a small issue. Other than forgetting to throw them in the car when going out, leaving me not able to run one of the RCs in the field, but that's more a "me thing" than an inherent flaw. That includes high powered systems like my 8s DBXL-E 2.0 which runs the same IC5 connectors - running two adapters. Do i prefer soldering the correct connection? Absolutely. But as i said: not for safety reasons. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAL3D Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 A dodgy soldering joint is far worse than a decent connector of course! But all things being as they should, a connector is still less safe than a proper soldered joint. Albeit only slightly in this instance agreed. The fact that given a choice most safety conscience folk would prefer not to have an adaptor says it all. No chance with a correctly soldered connector and a tiny chance with a correctly made and fitted adaptor. Especially when you take failure mode analysis into consideration over time. Maybe I'm just overly cautious being an old school Engineer. 👍 (And saying all that - I still run Deans adaptors to EC5 when running 4S Deans Lipos rather than 6S with EC5 lipos.. but I mechanically join them so they can't come unattached when running 🤣) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 (edited) Of course, a properly soldered "correct" connector is preferable. I am very safety conscious, btw - even had arguments here because i don't mix batteries (even "de-married sets"), i have three bat-safes, charge in an ammo can under supervision etc pp. That said: again, your issue with your deans pack is inherent to deans. It's not about the adaptor. Put differently, after running (by now) probably thousands of packs through all my RCs combined, not once did i even had a connector that was "too easy to disconnect", let alone disconnected itself, including multiple TRX to XT90 and IC5 to XT90 adaptors. The failure rate won't multiply by adding an adaptor - if a connector is supposed to last 1000 connects/disconnects (or whatever they're rated for, i actually don't know), then that goes for both ends of the adaptor. It might've been the case when deans etc were the preferred connector of choice - nowadays, XT90s (don't know about EC5) don't have that issue. I have four year old connectors that still are so tight that i partially need mechanical help (grips) to disconnect them. All this only leads to the conclusion that deans are poop. 😛 Which is pretty much what i'd tell anyone considering using deans. I don't use them because i don't trust them, already the fact that on making contact with the ESC you've got exposed live tabs gives me the heebie jeebies, i'm not too ashamed to admit that electricity to me is witchcraft and angry pixies, hence me being as careful as possible. edit: that said: if he doesn't want to run an adaptor, that's entirely fine, not trying to talk anyone into an adapter. Though, i kinda am trying to talk people out of deans. They're obsolete in this day and age and should be replaced with safer and more reliable alternatives, be it EC5 or XT90. I'll be leaving it at that too, it's a bit off topic. 😉 Edited March 19, 2021 by m4inbrain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbulsara Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 On 18/03/2021 at 18:58, froggy8 said: what is the difference between the brushed and brushless version? apart from the brushless esc and motor. They are mostly the same however the diffs are different, the input gear and the slipper clutch. They differentials are of a different pitch. I started mine as a brushed and slowly upgraded everything to the 3s spec. I got the diffs from Jenny's rc in america! They were really cheap i think 8-10 quid each? The most expensive part to upgrade (besides ) the esc and motor was the slipper clutch. all the parts just slot right in though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbulsara Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Those of you with the new version of the typhon? Are your shocks leaking already? I have the previous iteration and at different points over the past year all the shocks started leaking.... I had bought it from wireless madness which passed me onto Logic (i believe) and they were awesome at sending me oil and new o-rings (i think it was a shock rebuild kit ) for the shocks. Only last week the back ones started leaking again..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 i was going to get the brushed version and get my own electrics but dont think that will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn75 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 I've 'rebuilt my shocks several times because they leak fitted 6s shocks in the end bought of ebay, I think you can buy the v3 shock kit that contains different o rings that stops them leaking. I've bought a used senton the last owner told me he used the v3 o rings and they haven't leaked yet. But to be honest the 6s shocks look and feel a lot nicer you just need some spacers if you fit them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 13 hours ago, jimbulsara said: Those of you with the new version of the typhon? Are your shocks leaking already? I have the previous iteration and at different points over the past year all the shocks started leaking.... I had bought it from wireless madness which passed me onto Logic (i believe) and they were awesome at sending me oil and new o-rings (i think it was a shock rebuild kit ) for the shocks. Only last week the back ones started leaking again..... The v3 shocks don't leak anymore, and they're genuinely good enough. I don't feel the need to go to 6s shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 12 hours ago, froggy8 said: i was going to get the brushed version and get my own electrics but dont think that will work It does, but it requires more work than just switching ESC and motor. To be honest, i'd just go to makeitbuildit, buy the brushless version with code (£303) and be sorted. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 20 minutes ago, m4inbrain said: It does, but it requires more work than just switching ESC and motor. To be honest, i'd just go to makeitbuildit, buy the brushless version with code (£303) and be sorted. yeah think it will be easier that way. i asked about ftx outlaw too, i can buy the brushed version for that car and just swap the brsuhed combo for brushless. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.