Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

The age old Question - Which electric truggy do I go for?


Fuzzock

Recommended Posts

As I continue my journey back into RC, the time has come to start shopping for an Electric 1/8th Truggy.

 

I have been out of the hobby for a few years, but prior to that my last cars were Hyper 7 IC's of which I still have and a buckload of spares. As such part of me is edging towards an ST with either an electric conversion, or the SSTe (But spares/upgrades seem light on eBay - is this just them not being identified as SSTe's I wonder?)

 

However I am also open to other ideas and this is where your loverly input would be appreciated as I know things have greatly moved on! I am interested in either new or 2nd hand models (With unbiased recommendations of course. ;) ) and the main aim of this model is for bashing around rather than racing and I would like for it to have a wide range of tinkering options.

 

Thank you in advance :)

 

Ian...

 

*EDIT* My budget is "Healthy" I would say, but at the same time I am happy to start at lower iteration of a model as long as I can upgrade it over time.

Edited by Fuzzock
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Bajadre said:

depends if your after a basher or more racer Fuzz plenty of choices nowadays arrma,corally do some nice basher truggys or look at losi,tekno,mugen,kyosho for track work etc

 

This one is more Basher focused. I will be getting a 1:10th buggy next year for racing.

 

Arma is one of the ones that has been at the top of my list. Anything I need to know/avoid on them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Goddinaw said:

There’s a good thread on the Corally Kronos on here, which is worth a look. I’ve got one and would recommend, but Arrma Kraton, Absima Torch etc also worth considering.
 

 

I will give that thread a read then :)

 

Ian...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Plenty of options out there for all kinds of pockets.

 

Of course, there's the Arrma Kraton - good all around choice. Not perfect, but certainly one of the best bashing truggies (all things considered) out there. Tendency to bend if you send it stupendously, and potentially would want to order some rod ends with the purchase as well.  Reasonably priced, great parts support (both spares and aftermarket). If you want to use your own, potentially better electrics (Max6 etc), the Arrma EXB is a good choice - just make sure you get one of the second batch, there were manufacturing problems with the first batch. Rear diffs blowing up left right and center - fixed on warranty no questions asked, but still a hassle. The second batch (end of november), according to hobby shops, will have the diffs fixed. And in that case, the EXB is a pretty awesome bit of kit.

 

There's the Corally Kronos, which i can't comment on - i had an incredibly frustrating experience with the Corally Dementor and will stay well clear of Corally from now on - but AJ seems to have gotten lucky with his Kronos. Although, i am following the corally bashers facebook group, and the Kronos does have a few problems too, especially with melting its diffs. 

 

Now, if you're really "lubed", there's the TLR 8ight XTE - which isn't the greatest basher ever conceived (though it's good enough), but also can serve as a racing rig. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So...

 

I decided to take a little bit of an odd direction with this one. After suggestions and research the Arrma Kraton was top of my list to buy. (Thank you for all the advice)

 

As such, I went out and bought a pile of Hyper ST/SSe parts from Taiwan instead. :unsure:

 

I just couldn't get my previous urges to own an ST out of my brain, so we will see how this project goes as I start to make another FrankenSTein machine...

 

Ian...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good stuff,  money to Taiwan,  enemy of communist bandit china and last sanctuary of real chinese culture which the communists sought to erase.  Better than money going to winnie the poo and the tyrants too,  the people who intentionally unleashed the coof coof upon the world (closed all internal flights to protect themselves,  left all international flights wide open). 

 

No hating though,  that's what our real enemy wants. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt-mPJEkDq4&feature=youtu.be&t=489

 

 

Also an excellent choice as the Hyper ST can easily be made the toughest out there by a Mile,   on a shoestring budget too as there's a long and storied history and legacy of this machine,  stemming from the crazy Hyper 7 Bashing legends.       

 

I have a couple spare motor mounts if you want one.   And I have some links in my signature on brushless conversion strategies.

 

 

 

Has some of the best chassis bracing of ANY Truggy,  And can even be made a load better with a couple cheap mods,   so you can REALLY send it without restraint.

 

 

You can use any spare ST rear upper arm turnbuckles to make sweet extra chassis braces (with the longer plastic bit on both ends for the rear),  from the little aluminum tube/space thing that the bolt that holds the rear chassis brace to the gearbox goes through..     To the Unused nitro Brake gubbins hole in the middle of the center diff plate...

 

For connecting the turnbuckle to the center diff plate I use an M3 cap head Bolt through a Ball end like the ones that the turnbuckle is connected to the shocktower with.

 

Then an M4 Nut underneath the ball end to fill in the ole of the center plate.   then a thick wide washer,  then an M3 Nylock nut from underneath to clamp it all together onto the plate....

 

 

 

I also do something similar for the front so the center diff mount can't be pushed over and forwards from an extreme rear impact.

 

They work great,  and have a little give in them to absorb energy rather than just transferring it on to the next part to break....

 

Might want to fill in the hollow bit of the longer plastic part of the turnbuckle with shoegoo or E6000 though to beef it up ( clean part with 99% alcohol so the goo sticks stronk,   sellotape over one side of the hollow,  then pour in shoegoo to fill it up)

 

 

 

 

 

The suspension Hingepins are also easily converted to 12.9 High tensile steel nut and bolt, for even more Strength.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...