Goddinaw

I’ve got two kids and have done my fair share of repairs after they’ve crashed the cars. Here are my thoughts: - FTX do break easily but are easily repaired, I’d say buy the brushed one and use the cash saved for spare parts and poss a brushless set up later on - Arrma 3s are very robust, you can get real bargains on the old brushless ones, though the controller is quite slow - my 7 yr old has a brushless big rock and loves it, hasn’t broken anything on it, but it’s not his first RC (the FTX and Absima have been broken) - Absima 1/10 scale are more robust than FTX, good spares. You can even get them as kits. - I haven’t got a triton but given it’s two wheel drive I’d suggest the mammoth could be easier for a kid to control. Overall it depends on the child - some are pretty good at controlling RCs, others less so. There is a big difference in my kids, but they also learn fast so I agree that a car you can start slow and make faster is a good idea, either through switching it to make it slower or starting brushed and then upgrading, or starting with a NIMH battery, then going 2s lipo etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds good - I’ll message you with details. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, What are the connectors on the batteries? Assuming I’ll have to get new connectors soldered on I can offer you £100 for the two 4s gens ace and the two zippy 4s, including postage? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree serrated / ribbed wheel nuts are ideal, but a cheap solution is serrated washers. My Kronos had hopeless smooth wheel nuts that it was throwing off all the time (every outing) so I added serrated washers and they stay on perfectly. If you’re taking them on and off often I think the serrated wheel nuts would be better though, as they are not so sharp so they won’t chew up the wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree serrated / ribbed wheel nuts are ideal, but a cheap solution is serrated washers. My Kronos had hopeless smooth wheel nuts that it was throwing off all the time (every outing) so I added serrated washers and they stay on perfectly. If you’re taking them on and off often I think the serrated wheel nuts would be better though, as they are not so sharp so they won’t chew up the wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! It was a bit of luck - I’d spotted this site called appliance electronics that mainly sells kitchen appliances but also some decent prices on a small range of RCs. They happened to have a ‘damaged’ Mojave EXB - it just had a slight crease in the shell on one side that you can’t really see. They then did a Black Friday deal for 5% off all RCs including the Mojave that they’d already reduced! Ordered it yesterday and it arrived today. I’ll open the diffs and have a look then and top them up at least. Is it fairly easy to get the diffs out - should be while it’s a roller? If you work out what to do about the body posts snapping please let me know - both Kevin Talbot and Tomley RC broke theirs. I’m thinking of not putting the polystyrene/ padding into the mounting (as they both did) as this may allow the mounts to flex more and not snap. Probably needs a clever 3D printed insert to strengthen them - hopefully someone dreams one up! Looking forward to watching yours develop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I managed to get one of these as a Christmas project for £500 in a Black Friday deal. Got a max 6 for it and a surpass rocket 4585 1580kv that Tomley RC recommended. Just putting a JX 46kg HV servo in, so will be a much cheaper build than AJ’s. AJ - what oil do the diffs have to start with? I wasn’t planning on swapping the diff oil but I do have some that I bought for the Kronos that I could put in - 30k, 300k, 100k. Mine won’t be as power fuss yours so I might be alright with the stock diff oil? Certainly looks like a well built truck so far. I seem to be following your footsteps on some of these RCs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Appliance electronics is doing 5% off for Black Friday and their starting prices are mostly the same as modelsport, so you might get a bargain. Not a big range but worth a look if you’re after a RTR - traxxas, Arrma, Losi etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Banggood is advertising a Black Friday sale, but whether there will be any genuine reductions I don’t know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can also use ab2.4 parts on the ab3.4 - if you look on modelsport you’ll see loads of aluminium parts for the ab2.4, which also fit the 3.4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, I’ll take this please. Haven’t bought on here before but I can send you a mail? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I bought one used from modelsport and they accepted me for the v2 pack, however I did have the modelsport receipt, albeit saying used. I expect if you get the original receipt from the vendor they would accept that, but there is a risk they turn it down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I reckon the stoke 6s could definitely take some bad landings as mine has had quite a lot. It doesn’t seem quite as strong as my Kronos, but not far off. In terms of the drive train on 6s I don’t know really. I’ve had no issues on 4s, other than the motor getting hot. The 6s will have a different esc and motor, so maybe fine. I think the 6s has a metal spur gear, but not certain. My stoke 4s has an acetal spur which has been fine, even when running on gravel which chewed up the spur on another car. Probably worth checking the spec on the spur gear. I have been impressed by the Absima and it has hardly ever broken, so I’d say they are very good value. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got the new Arrma big rock and the Absima stoke 4s. They’re both good really. You’re looking at the torch 4s which has big off road wheels like the big rock. Some differences I can think of: - esc is better on the Absima - it has a fully programmable Esc, similar to a hobbywing. The Arrma one is not as good and you’re stuck with very high low voltage cut off. - Absima has a metal chassis and mine has taken a lot of abuse with almost nothing breaking. Arrma looks tough but some parts, like the shocks, I suspect won’t be as tough as the Absima. - Arrma motor is very good and runs cool on 3s. The Absima motor runs very hot on 4s - I added a fan, which wasn’t easy. - The Arrma is very easy to work on - the design is brilliant. The Absima is not easy to work on really. I did break a rear upper suspension arm (too many cart wheels) and replacing it was absurdly difficult. - the Absima is 4s but then doesn’t claim to be as fast as the Arrma, which claims 50mph. Probably similar speed, the Absima maybe slightly punchier acceleration. - better run times on the Absima as it takes two batteries and you can adjust the low voltage cut off. I guess the Absima may be slightly more for your money, but the Arrma is a great package and is a very good design. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks to Paul Busby for the bumpers - they look great and are strong and flexible, so should be perfect for my inevitable mistakes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use 3660 surpass one in the Bugsta and it’s fine. I went for the 3300kv version and kept the same pinion /spur ratio. Works well on 2s but you can run NIMH if you like. I can’t get it to link but if you look on Banggood for 3660 you’ll find it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, yes it is. I ordered the aluminium carnage chassis for my Bugsta and it’s the same. The vantage is slightly different. There are also some cars on Banggood which I think are largely the same, branded as vrx racing. They appear to do full diffs for under £5, which look the same as the FTX ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s a good thread on the Corally Kronos on here, which is worth a look. I’ve got one and would recommend, but Arrma Kraton, Absima Torch etc also worth considering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just made some socks for the shocks - I use braded tubing - I’ve done it on my other cars but need to get a larger size for shocks on the Kronos. The last picture is the tubing. I used the 25mm for this car. It works out quite cheap and has been hard wearing on my other cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The dementor looks smart. That was a great deal you got on it. I think putting some thick oil in the centre diff should reduce the ballooning a bit. I used 300k for the centre. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Paul, I’m interested in the bumpers like you made for AJ. How much are they - I would offer to PM you but not sure how I do that on here! Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting video and my son is going to be very excited when he sees that Kev answered one of ours! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AJ - have you swapped the pinion for a smaller one? I bought a twelve tooth one that I was going to use when I moved to 6s, but it was running fairly hot on 4s yesterday, so I’m thinking of putting it in anyway. I take you haven’t added a heat sink / fan to the motor? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ordered the second hand one on model sport and registered for the upgrade pack and Corally have confirmed my eligibility so I’ve just ordered option pack 2. So I can confirm they are still doing the upgrades - which makes this car very good value! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk