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Maverick Strada MT/XT/SC etc owners


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1 hour ago, explosifpete said:

IT LIVES!!!

 

car appears to be working this morning although reverse is gone and the throttle is temperamental  

Possibly servo is gone.

 

Have you got any history about that car? You might be up for a rebuild with fresher parts...

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59 minutes ago, Fourmiz29 said:

Possibly servo is gone.

 

Have you got any history about that car? You might be up for a rebuild with fresher parts...

Apparently it was used 4 times at half speed and then put away for three years.

The condition did reflect this. Well up until I got it :) 

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HPI owns maverick 

HSP is the Chinese version of the maverick.

 

yes it looks the number match to a kit I bought of AliExpress back in November.

fitted alright on my Strada XB 

only be careful with the rear hubs, they were tight when I was doing the wheels and causing me cogging (motor not running smoothly)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Fourmiz29 said:

HPI owns maverick 

HSP is the Chinese version of the maverick.

 

yes it looks the number match to a kit I bought of AliExpress back in November.

fitted alright on my Strada XB 

only be careful with the rear hubs, they were tight when I was doing the wheels and causing me cogging (motor not running smoothly)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks dude

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Hi Guys, 

 

after many months of enjoyment, I decided to give an upgrade to my sons Strada XB. 
The motor and ESC were replaced with Brushless 4 pole 3000 Kv as well as the batteries upgraded to Lipo.

EABFBF36-A12D-4685-A442-058532256D46.thumb.jpeg.e68e09e1792735a7d3e66d40a426238a.jpeg

 

 

the performance is very impressive and we are looking to replace the shock absorbers which have seen better times. I saw that the original are not available anymore. Can anyone assist on locating a good replacement for our Strada XB?

 

many thanks in advance

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I have just bought the same stock version the other day for my Strada XB. My original ones where with silver top, now they are gold. But before you buy new have you tried to refill them?

Basic maintenance is always helpful, plenty of youtube video about it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all, new to all this so sorry if I sound like an idiot.

I've got a maverick quantum mt, brushed version,  currently on 2s lipo, I'm just wondering if there is a way to turn off or lower the low voltage cut off?

Its cutting off at 3.8-3.9 at the moment.

I do have external alarms I can fit and set the cut off manually to keep the battery safe

Great full for any advice!

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1 hour ago, Dean80 said:

Hi all, new to all this so sorry if I sound like an idiot.

I've got a maverick quantum mt, brushed version,  currently on 2s lipo, I'm just wondering if there is a way to turn off or lower the low voltage cut off?

Its cutting off at 3.8-3.9 at the moment.

I do have external alarms I can fit and set the cut off manually to keep the battery safe

Great full for any advice!

You should be able to change the Voltage safety cut off by changing settings in the ESC. Either with a program card or the ESC got a setup button. Donc make it too low or cut it off, you will damage the battery. 

 

When you recharge the battery what does your charger about percentage left? And what run time are you getting out of the car so far?

Edited by Fourmiz29
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi All

 

I'm getting back into all of this after a few years and just got a used  MT EVO S (old one) off Ebay that was faulty so I can jump into the deep end to try fix and learn on the way. The Tx wasn't connecting but I have another Tx for my old brushed EVO XB that connected straight away so I guess the Tx from the Ebay one was faulty. Then started getting into it and got a bit confused with what has been done to battery connections on this one. So questions are:-

 

1. Struggling to get hold of the same Tx (MV22711 or the MTX-242) off the usual websites, so I'm guessing I have to buy the TX and RX as a set- is it just plug , bind and play? 

 

2. Or can I get just a newer model transmitter like this one https://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-mtx-244-2-4ghz-3ch-transmitter/rc-car-products/432923 and it will bind?

 

3. Also just for my knowledge would a completelyt different one like this https://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/442915 work? (Not looking to spend too much on this 'project')

 

4. The connectors out of the ESC are like shown in the  first pic. I've searched the internet and cannot fathom what these are. The manual says they should be 4mm Gold connectors so I can only think that the previous owner did something to them? Ideally I will want to run 2s lipo battery at a later date so I will have to change these to a Deans?

 

The other pics show how the NiMH batteries connect to these - The batteries have EC3 female (pic2) which then connects to a EC3 male adaptor on one end (pic3) with the connection then to the ESC (pic4).

 

Once I figure out the Lipo connection I'll use these batteries on my brushed EVO XB as there is also a tamya plug (pic 5)

 

5. There is quite a big gap between the shell and the chassis- in wet grass wouldn't this fry the ESC ? As far as I can tell the stock ESC is not waterproof in these old ones (MV26999)

 

Also the front wheels don't travel as far as they should even with the trims set to high so going to reserach into servo stuff to try figure it out😉

 

But anyhelp on the Tx/Rx and connectors appreciated!

 

Cheers!

IMG-20210223-WA0016.jpg

IMG-20210223-WA0017.jpg

IMG-20210223-WA0018.jpg

IMG-20210223-WA0019.jpg

IMG-20210223-WA0024.jpg

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For the connectors I am not too sure about it.. but if you want to get rid of the connector you don't know the name changing the ESC can be a good shout. Depending what you look for you can have some decent one 2S/3S from eBay or China. And the new ones are waterproof.

 

For the receiver/transmitter you can change it with on that suits you. There is no requirement except the number of channels to correspond to you setup.

 

I have changed my servo recently on my XB as the original one started to show sign like you described. Got the new from Wheelspin, etronics 15KG metal gears for less than £20 if my memory serves well...

 

Good luck

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Cheers again Fourmiz29- I think I've worked out the connectors are spade connectors, so now looking down the route of another ESC or soldering Deans (haven't soldered for years!!)

 

Thanks for the servo - will check out!

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Hi,

 

I've recently bought a brushless XT and I'm very disappointed in the amount of slop in the drivetrain. The stub axles in the hubs/ uprights specifically. I bought an aluminium upright kit in the hope that it would improve the situation but, it hasn't. The culprit seems to be how loose a fit the stub axles are in the hub bearings. Are there any 3rd party stub axles or CVJ axles that offer a better fit? Or any mods owners have made to improve the slop?

 

Cheers,

 

Paul

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The CV driveshafts are rubbish and fall apart in minutes, better bearings seem to help.  The best thing you can do is just ignore it, sorry to say.

 

One of the first things that will break is the front part of the chassis, seems to be this cars achilles heel.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAVERICK-STRADA-HSP-REDCAT-HIMOTO-FRONT-CHASSIS-BRACE-PROTECTOR-MV22625/174659588697?hash=item28aa85d259:g:CigAAOSwGAhgPLOX

 

That, with longer screws make it a lot stronger.

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That's a shame. When I first got into RC cars, probably 35 years ago, the Mardave Meteor I had didn't have slop where the XT does or anywhere I don't recall. A pretty poor show give we're in 2021. I think I'll just start buying 3rd party replacements and see if any fix or reduce the issue. They're cheap enough.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the chassis reinforcement. That area looks an odd place for a weak point, unless it's regularly driven into static objects I guess. I think it's body shells that I'll get through the most, as I have a tendency to flip the car over and land on the area that causes it to shatter. Fibre reinforced tape seems to work well though.

 

I've already started replacing all the screws and other fixings with stainless steel parts, so will look to buy longer, self tapping screws too.

 

Paul

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If it's in the rear wheels have a look at the lower outside hinge pin, there's a little grub screw that clamps it in place, if that's dropped out it allows movement too. I replaced mine with a long nut and nyloc nut and tightened it up until the slop in that pivot point was mostly gone.

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3 minutes ago, Darren Frosty said:

If it's in the rear wheels have a look at the lower outside hinge pin, there's a little grub screw that clamps it in place, if that's dropped out it allows movement too. I replaced mine with a long nut and nyloc nut and tightened it up until the slop in that pivot point was mostly gone.

Thanks but it's not the hinge pins. I've just fitted the rear alloy uprights, an hour ago and have thread locked the grub screws. I put a washer between the upright and inside of the arm as there was slop there. Now there's no play there but plenty in the stub axles.

 

I've just seen that Blacksmith Products sell stainless stub axles. They're £5 a pair so worth a punt to see if they're a tighter fit.

 

I had thought about wrapping some PTFE or electrical tape around the stub axle to reduce the clearances but, I'm not sure how well that would last. Might be worth an experimentation I guess.

 

Re the wing, that looks like an XB wing, I've got an XT.

 

Paul

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I had some of the stainless stub axles and they were exactly the same just shiny. Not convinced they're actually stainless either more zinc coated.

 

Shock towers, you'll get fed up straightening them too. I do some poly-carbonate ones but I don't think they have the holes for your body mounts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up getting the aluminium upgrades from the earlier in the the thread. Working through and learning loads from here👍

 

Confused about the wheel hex- the old ones would 'snap' in as the pin kind of popped into the gap. With the aluminium hex the pin doesn't even fit into the gap (to small) and I've just let the alu hex sit there and screwed the wheel back on. 

 

Is that normal for these alu upgrades? I know they're cheap but shouldn't be any issues........should there? 

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Where do you get the alu upgrade from? Was the pin supplied with the upgraded hex?

They should have the pin really otherwise you will wear the hub faster and it won't drive efficiently either.

 

A reamer could be a solution 

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It was these ones from earlier in the thread-

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-10-RC-Car-Upgrade-Steering-Parts-Set-for-HSP-94122-94123-94111-94188-RC-Truck/383776354664?_trkparms=aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142838%26meid%3D09497b9c587b4f0c8e3f1765f6c66715%26pid%3D101197%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D373230976752%26itm%3D383776354664%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DItemStripV101HighAdFee%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101197.m1850

 

The pins dont fit snugly in the hex - they just slip out. With the original hex you could turn it upside down and the pin would stay. With these alu ones the machining for the pin bed is too wide. The pins are in on the axle but I didn't get that nice 'click' when putting the alu hex on.  Seems to work ok but just wondering if anything long term going to happen.

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The pin has never a tight fit as far as I experienced it, it will slide in and out fairly easy.

Keep everything horizontal to fit the pin and secure the hex. If you have a grub screw on it (metal ones), it will help too. 

The ebay link looks to me to be some chinese parts available in UK for quick dispatch.  The parts are good enough but quality is a bit under stock ones (although not much metal available for the mavericks)

As long you have the pin when running the car it will be fine.

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Thanks 👍 All ok so far over the weekend. Just need my Lipo's delivered now as the NiMH just not giving enough juice for full throttle. 

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So for someone looking at the Strada xb brushless model after being away from the game for well over 15 years, is this a good model to start out with, with a. View to progressing and upgrading a bit later on. Any common problems to look out for please?

 

Got so many buggies on my shopping list really unsure between this one, the abisma ab3.4 and the ftx vantage brushless. 

 

If anyone can advise between those three It would be really appreciated

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