High Roller - VS4-10 Chassis kit build.

[stimpy]

12 hours ago, Andy-Roo said:

It’s very disappointing, but I’m sure I’ll be able to sort the problem out with a shim or two. I’m hoping to use it in a lightweight, low CoG build that I’m planning 🤞

 

American crap!.. An absolutely great design but sadly Eriks' quality control has gone out the window of late..... 

 

Don't chop your interior yet! Is it the motor or the spur in the way or the whole lot?...

 

[Andy-Roo]

2 hours ago, stimpy said:

 

American crap!.. An absolutely great design but sadly Eriks' quality control has gone out the window of late..... 

 

Don't chop your interior yet! Is it the motor or the spur in the way or the whole lot?...

 

Think it’s just the spur/guard that’ll be the issue. It looks like it’ll come through just behind the front seats - but that’s only a rough estimate.  I’m not going to tackle fitting it as yet...I’m taking a break from worrying about it and just get on with the rest of the build for now. 

 

[stimpy]

7 hours ago, Andy-Roo said:

Think it’s just the spur/guard that’ll be the issue. It looks like it’ll come through just behind the front seats - but that’s only a rough estimate.  I’m not going to tackle fitting it as yet...I’m taking a break from worrying about it and just get on with the rest of the build for now. 

 

 

OK, and if you put the spur to the front does it clear?  Then we could make a forward motor mount .... 

Edited September 14, 2020 by stimpy

[Andy-Roo]

1 hour ago, stimpy said:

 

OK, and if you put the spur to the front does it clear?  Then we could make a forward motor mount .... 

I think that would put the spur coming through the front seat/dash area. There also a good chance the motor would foul the rear bulkhead.  I’m thinking I could either paint the spur cover black or maybe box the rear seat area out of styrene and paint it to look like a huge icebox 🤣

[stimpy]

1 hour ago, Andy-Roo said:

I think that would put the spur coming through the front seat/dash area. There also a good chance the motor would foul the rear bulkhead.  I’m thinking I could either paint the spur cover black or maybe box the rear seat area out of styrene and paint it to look like a huge icebox 🤣

 

Definitely in the future I will have an option for you mate. But for now don't forget you could take the spur cover off also - I've never ran one anyway... 

 

And as for the forward motor mount option it would then be further forward! So it will come no where near the rear bulk head 👍

[DartmoorTrails]

 
Definitely in the future I will have an option for you mate. But for now don't forget you could take the spur cover off also - I've never ran one anyway... 
 
And as for the forward motor mount option it would then be further forward! So it will come no where near the rear bulk head [emoji106]

X2 on removing the spur cover, they're big and get in the way!
There's 2 options on the front motor mount@Andy-Roo; the SSD Trail King / VFD route where it's still bolted to a traditional skid or the complete relocation up over the front axle between the shock hoops and then a divorced transfer case where the skid is.
Both give loads of space for a proper interior.

I'm hoping stimpy and Carl have got the latter in prototype [emoji16][emoji1696]

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[stimpy]

12 hours ago, DartmoorTrails said:

X2 on removing the spur cover, they're big and get in the way!
There's 2 options on the front motor mount@Andy-Roo; the SSD Trail King / VFD route where it's still bolted to a traditional skid or the complete relocation up over the front axle between the shock hoops and then a divorced transfer case where the skid is.
Both give loads of space for a proper interior.

I'm hoping stimpy and Carl have got the latter in prototype

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

 

Hehe.. We're running a little behind our hoped schedule currently just due to life!.. But it's coming lads!!

 

We have currently decided to go down 2 routes; a forward / forward mount on the 3 gear Axial unit as that's quite easy to design. Then a 3 & 4 gear LCG OD tranny - my hope is to work this out without needing a spur gear... 

 

I also want to look at rehousing the 3 gear in a better lower package but I also want to work out a DIG option - I have some VP Hurtz digs to play with but I will also visit the SCX3/Capra tranny and see if I can't design a different front section to bring the gearing down some or repackage it maybe.... An awful Lot of ideas, just needing the time put into them and then other projects getting in the way also!!...

 

I also really need to concentrate on getting the first few chassis options tested and out as a priority 👍 The straight axle version should have the first releases sometime soonish 2/3 weeks all being well...

[Andy-Roo]

Morning folks!  
 

I’m going to apologise now because this could be a long and boring post about bodywork.  I know for some this isn’t their favourite part of any build, but for me it’s a lot of fun and very enjoyable. It also means (generally) that the end is in sight.  
 

Now, this is only my second attempt at weathering a shell and it’s my first ever hardbody - other than Airfix kits when I was a ‘yoof’, of course. 
 

So I started off with sanding but was trying my best not to sand away any of the details  In the body..

Fast forward several hours and I’m at the filler stage. I’d picked up a tube of Humbrol filler and it turned out to be a good choice - easy to apply, fast setting and easy to work 👍

 

 

Crude but effective 🙈

 

Getting there...

 

I got it to this point and thought that’s enough..

 

Next I wanted to add some damage. The tools for the job..

 

 

I was pooping it pointing the heat gun at my expensive shell for the first time! 
But it worked out okay...Phew! 

 

Now, the dent in the bonnet didn’t go as planned 🙈

 

Back on track with the next one though.. 

 

Next I used a soldering iron, with a fine tip, to add some texture for the rust I’ll adding later on.

 

With all the ‘damage’ done and a good clean in warm soapy water, I sprayed on the first coat of primer..

 

 

After several light coats of primer and being left to dry over night, I wet sanded it - the first of many as it turned out. 
 

In between all the spraying and sanding I modded my Scaler Fab front bumper that was on my SCX10.2 which was now going on the VS..

 

 
After some cutting, grinding and filing..

I then painted it black so I can then weather it to look well used. I know, I could just have left it raw steel but I wanted it black, to match the cage (once I’ve built it). 
 

 

 

T.B.C... 

 

[DartmoorTrails]

Brave work mate, can't wait for the next installment

[Andy-Roo]

57 minutes ago, DartmoorTrails said:

Brave work mate, can't wait for the next installment

Cheers DT.  I was in full clench mode when pointing that heat gun! 😆

[Stormbringer]

5 minutes ago, Andy-Roo said:

Cheers DT.  I was in full clench mode when pointing that heat gun! 😆

i bet you were lol 

looking quite good tho 

[Andy-Roo]

So, picking up where I left off...

 

After wet sanding the undercoat to a smooth as glass finish, I could start the masking. 
My plan was to keep two of the the doors in grey primer with the rest in colour, so it looked like those doors had been replaced and were ready for paint. 
 

Then came the colour.  I decided to go with white for two reasons; white was one of the colours the Toyota came in when new, and back in the early 90’s a friend of mine had a white Hilux with a lift, big wheels, BF Goodrich tyres, a black bull bar and roll hoop.  I though it was so cool, and it was huge next to my tiny Renault 5 GTT! 
 

This is where I made a big mistake - I used Tamiya PS paint and not the correct TS 🙈

After laying down several light coats and leaving to dry overnight, it was still soft. 
I thought it must have been the low temps at night that caused the problem, but Stimpy helped me see the error. Doh! 





At this point I’m feeling quite proud of myself. Little did I know that was gonna be short lived 😆

 

You can see here where the soft paint was marking really easily.  This did actually end up being an advantage in the end, but at the time I was gutted, thinking I’d ruined it. 
 

 

I decided to leave it for couple of days just to see if the paint would go off. It was left out in the sun for one of those days but it wasn’t having any of it.  So I started wet sanding if off as best I could, and then started building up coats of the correct TS flat white, and sanding it back. This process when on for some time until I got to point where I could move forward.  So make sure you use the right paint, because getting it wrong can really ruin your day! 🤣

 

Back on track and masking up for blacking out the door shuts, window rubbers and body accents.

 

 

Trimming the window rubbers..

 

And cutting in the shut lines..

 

Several finger cramping hours later and it’s ready for the first coat of black.

 

Looks like a dogs dinner..woof woof 

 

I really wasn’t sure what to expect when the time came to peel off the mask..

 

 

It’s looking a bit on the rough side at this point but at least the paint stayed on the shell 👍

 

There was a few places where the black had crept under the mask, but the biggest concern was the sticky residue (stop laughing at the back) left by the Tamiya tape on the grey primer. 

 

 

Now this was a problem...how was going to get this off 🤔

After a few failed attempts with warm water and wet sanding I broke out the Acetone. And it worked!  Phew, I dodged another bullet 🙌

So back to the wet sanding..

 

 

I’d picked up one of these chrome paint pens a couple of months back and now was the time to try it out..

 

 

I’d also started the rust process at this point with the base layer (the dark grey bits).

I was really pleased with how the chrome came out.

This is also the first sign that it’s starting to come together now..

 

 

Think I may have overdone the rust on the bulkhead, but it’s all a learning curve.

 

 

You can see here where using the wrong paint has actually added depth and texture  to the finish.

 

 

I’m really happy with how the grill is looking 😃

 

In real time I’ve finished the weathering and it’s looking so good, but you’ll have to wait until next time to see it 😁

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 24, 2020 by Andy-Roo

[Badcrumble]

How dare you make us wait in this age of instant gratification!!!!

Loving your work...

[Andy-Roo]

12 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

How dare you make us wait in this age of instant gratification!!!!

Loving your work...

Thanks mate. Promise I won’t make you wait too long 😁

[stimpy]

Really coming along Buddy 👍

 

Be out on the trails soon!!

 

[Andy-Roo]

2 minutes ago, stimpy said:

Really coming along Buddy 👍

 

Be out on the trails soon!!

 

Won’t be long now...like Christmas 😂

[Andy-Roo]

Evening folks! 
 

Okay, yet another update...I clearly have way to much time on my hands right now! 
 

So, let’s talk about weathering. I’ve really enjoyed putting the Yota body together and making it my own. Making it look old and beaten has been a lot of fun and adds so much depth and definition to the overall look.  I can really see this becoming my favourite part of any build.  Anyways, let’s get into it...

 

These are the products I used for this...although I’ve not yet flat cleared it yet, which I’ll come to further on. 
 

The first stage of the process was applying the base layer for the rust paint. This takes about an hour to dry and then the activator can be applied, which is left for 12hrs. 
I’ve found that, if after the 12hrs the rust isn’t heavy enough, you can keep adding more activator until the right effect is reached. 
 

This is effect after 12hrs..

 

I love the way activator has run leaving rusty marks on the paint.

 

Hmmm, I still think I overdid it here but you learn from your mistakes.

 

Loving these rusty streaks! 
 

I did go over some areas again with another coat of activator, just to help with the rusty  streaks, but overall I’m really happy with how the rust is looking. 
 

Next I added some ‘oily hand marks’ on and around the bonnet, using the Tamiya weather master products. 

 

Oily hand marks on the doors..

 

It’s really starting to come together now..

 

Almost there, just a few more details..

 

 

The bumper looks like it needs more work but I decided to just leave it to my driving to give it the beaten look 🙈

 

When I bought the Yota body with the interior kit I thought I had everything needed to complete it - other than the pickup bed, which I didn’t need, obviously 🙄 

But it doesn’t come with the wipers! I’ve had to order another parts tree that comes with a second dash and steering wheel that I don’t need. 
So that’s why I haven’t flat cleared it yet, because I want to add wiper marks to the screen and ‘dust’ the other windows. Not sure if I’ll cut one or two so they’re open, or not. The jury is still out on that one. 
 

 

Looking tough 💪

 

 

Today I’ve been cutting the interior to allow for the transmission and that’s gone surprisingly well, but more about that...next time 👍

Edited September 26, 2020 by Andy-Roo

[.AJ.]

Looking good, I built a Mojave a few years ago and came up with a way to hide the crappy screw holes in the body and still use the same mounting posts

 

 

 

👍

 

 

[Andy-Roo]

24 minutes ago, .AJ. said:

Looking good, I built a Mojave a few years ago and came up with a way to hide the crappy screw holes in the body and still use the same mounting posts

 

👍

 

 

Nice fix there AJ, looks great 👍

[Badcrumble]

That rust effect is really good. Reminds me of my Mum's old Corolla!

[Stormbringer]

thats looking great mate 🍻

[Andy-Roo]

Morning all..

 

A quick update.  
I’ve painted and weathered the fuel cell, and also modded the interior to allow for the transmission and then built a cover for it. 
 

I really should have painted this before I put the chassis together. 

 

Next I turned my attention to the interior, that doesn’t fit because of the transmission.

The area in for the chop.

 

You can see two V shape cutouts for the nut on the input shaft. Why are there two?

Errr...because I cut one in the wrong place. Doh 🙈

 

The transmission comes through right behind the front seat. In fact it’s so close I had to remove some of the seat back too.  I really needed to get this right because there isn’t much material to work with.

 

I’ve mentioned this Tamiya hand saw before, but it’s so good I thought I’d mention it again. A brilliant bit of kit 👌

 

If only I could cut a straight line 😆

 

Amazingly, it fits! 
 

Test fitting with the interior fitted into the body and then onto the chassis.

 

Next I needed to build some kind of cover, to hide my dodgy looking saw cuts from prying eyes! 😂

I decided to use styrene because it’s light and easy to work with.

 

A couple of light scores and I’ve got the basic shape..

 

And it fits really well. So far so good..

 

Next came the side sections..

 

A bit more scoring..

 

Some of this to glue the lot together..

 

Now I have my cover..

 

And there it is, glued into place and ready for paint. 
Now the interior fits I’m going to put that one side and circle back to it later - I’m not sure what colour I want it yet. I know black would be the obvious choice but it’s already black so maybe tan would be better...🤔

 

So that’s where I am right now and the next stage is fabricating the rear cage, which I’ve been looking forward to since the start of this build.  With luck it’ll go well and I’ll post the next update fairly soon 🤞

 

Adios amigos! 

 

 

 

[Badcrumble]

Neat cover! I reckon a well weathered tan interior would look good with the mostly white body.  I also rate those Tamiya blades. I can't saw straight either 😂

[Andy-Roo]

23 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:I can't saw straight either 😂

I blame the saws 😂

[Andy-Roo]

Well that quote didn’t go to plan 🤪