Axial SCX24.....New but familiar ground.

[Yoshimoto]

 

Loving the new Axial SCX24 [emoji16] and I know lots of you are waiting patiently for some UK stock but I can't stop messing about with this new little crawler...so I've started this thread.

 

Straight from the off here's what I've done so far to get it working better.

Although not bad out of the box in any way other than a faulty charger...it gets way more capable with a few cheap or free mods.

Especially handy during this unprecedented period of pandemic mayhem.

 

Straight out of the box it's had 10g front and 5g rear lead inside the rims...needs a little trim to clear the front knuckles but works well, didn't even have to take the tyres off either...big bonus.....nice new rims are fortunes if you could find them.

Also found a spare 8g Digi servo from a 3d plane that just fits the servo tray,a bit deeper so overhangs slightly....you can't chop the tray because it forms part of the linkage mount so I've fixed it in place with UHU Por so solid but removable if needs to be.

The stock servo saver is quite tall and doesn't match the splines of the larger Emax servo so using a standard horn keeps it all close to stock angles.

The shocks were treated to some Vaseline to slow them down first off....not particularly good friction properties so subsequently refilled with Lucas XHD blue grease but I get the feeling it might be worth finding some nice replacements,4.5mm of fuel tube front and rear preload for the springs too feels right for me.

Dumped the battery tray and swapped ends with the ESC/Rx and played around with a lowered front battery mount but went back to stock ESC tray holding the cells up front in the end.

The stock ESC fits perfectly between the rails at the rear with a dab or two of UHU Por glue and the whole chassis is more planted now, I'm liking how it's running it's really getting there and starting to hook up at lower and lower revs [emoji41]

Most recently i made and fitted some more lead weights.

Rolled and formed with my bench tools these DIY items are heavier than anything out there and quite a bit cheaper [emoji32] but they work superbly even if they don't shine...

6g each end of the rear axle and 18g on the front diff housing.

Next step?.........I've been scratchin round for a nice ESC while waiting for stock parts(I blew up my ESC...I have already cursed many times regarding this amateur mistake...battery into motor socket Doh!) and I stumbled across this...a used Tekin B1r.........I couldn't resist.

It's about perfect for the scx24 25.4x23x6.5mm

2-3s lipo and NiMh NiCd

Any brushed motor no bigger than a 380.

Full hotlink programmability..forgot all about these [emoji41]

I've also got some cheap no brake 20amp jobs coming from Asia that look promising too.

So waiting for the postie to get this up and running again......

 

So who else has one? and what are you all doing with them?

 

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[Yoshimoto]

Thank gawd for online shopping.....back in the day...

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[Yoshimoto]

This arrived today and Im pleased with the size and weight of it.
I've made some adapter plugs and grabbed the fire extinguisher..... Very smooth but way too much minimum throttle for crawling....I'll have a tinker with the radio but I think it's spares for now.
Luckily the new donor scx24 arrived too so Im back up running [emoji41]

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[Yoshimoto]

Got the baby Tekin fitted out with mini Dean's and bannana plugs and made a lexan mount to get it nice and low over the transmission opposite to the motor.

The difference is night and day with much better throttle modulation.

Set it up first with no drag brake but even though it's worm geared it does need 10-20% to keep it from rolling.

Added another 8-9g or so to the front axle housing just to give it slightly more front weight bias and I've also gone back to a fresh lcg battery mount with a noticeable boost in sidehill ability.

One point of note is motor temps....it never previously became hot as stock but it runs stone cold now,I'm never sure why other owners keep burning up motors,but I've got an inkling that its something to do with the quality of, or the lack of motor capacitors, seems earlier production cans ran very hot.

The Hot Racing shocks came today, I expected them to be 10mm longer than stock but these match the originals... hopefully damping should be more consistent with a better sealed alloy body to hold on to my damping medium of choice.

Going to try some 1k diff oil to start with and go from there but it's got to be better than the stock pogo struts!?

Yoshi [emoji41]

 

 

 

 

 

[Yoshimoto]

Inverted the HR dampers and mounted the RX on the rear links...it only just peeks over the rails at rest and is a big improvement [emoji41]

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[stimpy]

Shocks look great mate 👍

 

That cheapo esc - says no brake - I assume it does do reverse?  Have been looking at small esc options to power some servo winches... Assume it has no drag brake on it? 

 

Waddayareckon?? 
 

Oh, and where did you find a B1r??? And what was the cost of you don’t mind me asking ( pm if you prefer)... 

 

Lastly, your course looks good mate 👍. We have one going through the flower beds and the bin store area! 
 

Well the sign did say ‘DANGER’!! 

Edited June 24, 2020 by stimpy

[Yoshimoto]

Yeah no brake of any sort and no delay.

They are nice and small too just no good for this job.

The course....the other half wasn't too happy with it in the middle of the lawn so it's been re imagined in 'my' garage.Quite happy to while away a hour here and there with the Jeep.....I just wish I could film it well,I'm so pleased with the way it behaves and runs....it looks great in action [emoji41]

Oh yeah fwd/rev no brake.....I've got two spare if you want,one still unopened.

I got lucky and paid 30 posted for the B1R....probably about right considering its used and tidy.....60 dollars new arnt they?

 

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[stimpy]

Always safer in the man cave!!... 

 

Yeah about $60 and hard to find so you did ok 👍.

 

Found the XYS esc On eBay, but if you wanna sell a new one on at the right price I’d be happy to take one off you.... Pm me your price posted if you like.

 

Keep it up, and enjoy! 

[Yoshimoto]

Cheers Stimpy...I've inboxed you.

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[Yoshimoto]

Fuel tube mod to the balls and links,keeps the links flat and reduces the slop drastically.

 

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[Yoshimoto]

Nice!


I didn't manage to recover it tho...

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[Yoshimoto]

Must be 30 or 40 packs so far and it's still performing admirably well on the original motor.

I've picked up a few as spares during ownership but I'm short of the Barrage/RGT 050....Probably the best for torque and low revs from what I'm hearing.

Some minor mods are needed....shaft shortened and new mounting holes in the motor plate or custom plate but I could only find one on BanggoodUK [emoji27] never used BG before and overall it's got mixed reviews.....went with PP too I'm that unsure.

I've been using larger than stock 2s packs from the off 450-500's with good results but fancied trying some LiHV,the Bolt 2's 500 was cheap enough with 65-130c discharge rates and I'm happy with the extra volts and seemingly mad duration.....1hr+(rock crawling) with little drop off....I think I'd like to try some in my bigger cars too [emoji41]

 

 

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[Yoshimoto]

Wheels today....treated my self to some fresh RC4WD stamped steel beadlocks and some Milestar Patagonia's.
These are much heavier than my stock rims even with weights fitted so the rears have not been weighted at all with just 10g each up front.
I also built up some fresh stock rims and tyres with 7g of extra weight over my previously 9g weighted stock rims.
Ive actually have no complaints about the stock tyres it's just I can't actually fit that much weight to the stock rims and it's getting to the point where inserts would be a good idea.....needless to say side hilling is much improved with the new rims and tyres and I've noticed more accurate steering from the wider Patagonia's with the supplied inserts.
Big improvements over stock [emoji41]

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[James.S]

Lookin' good mate. Those wheels make quite a difference!  👍

[Yoshimoto]

Yeah I'm deffo chuffed with the looks and how they perform.
Only had 10 mins or so with them on the rocks so far but they work really well on my sandstone and granite course [emoji41]

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[Yoshimoto]

Chopped the Deadbolt stinger to fit the Jeep bumper mount,this is not an easy print in PLA....but this was the best of a 'few'

Thankfully it's accumulating 'patina' immediately and hiding the shoddy finish...

Also found a tiny what looks to be a USA number plate decal in a stash of old Axial decals,so made a number plate bracket and number plate from some pvc and painted the bracket black.... nice size and detail till some new custom ones turn up.

+5mm brass wheel weights arrived today but not sure I'm going to fit them since the steel beadlocks went on...maybe just fronts I'm not sure.

Funny but I spend much more time running this than any of the others,it works so well and keeps impressing me with each tweak and mod [emoji4]

 

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[James.S]

Its looking great mate 👍 I really like the number plate, its a nice finishing touch 👌 

[Yoshimoto]

Quick vid...http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5f95dac32b342/received_661666318111416.mp4

 

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[Yoshimoto]

I bought another...the Deadbolt this time....mainly on price as I wanted another jeep or C10 thinking that it was a longer wheelbase and the optional extra parts would be in the box making the two trucks an even match to drive.

I was wrong,the wheelbase is almost exactly the same..1mm...it's the layout of the center gearbox and in turn the link lengths that are different [emoji848]

The Deadbolt has the gearbox much further forward with very short front links and super long rears?!?

What I do know is that the Jeep most deffo handles better out of the box,the body is lighter for starters.

So it was removed from the box,plugged in for 2 minutes with one of my Pack's to check functionality and stripped.

Both battery mount and the ESC/Rx mount have been removed and a LCG battery plate replaces the front ESC mount with the ESC sitting between the frame rails where the battery mount used to be, it's much lower [emoji848]

Stock hexes have been replaced with brass +5mm jobs and a heavier battery fly lead was made up to accommodate my mini Deans packs.

A servo extension has been added until the new Emax ES08M# arrives and fuel tube has been fitted to all the balls on the steering gear.

I've fitted a Rx switch again too,the lamps are a pain sometimes...it's nice to switch them off too.

I'm going to try and get the stock tyres working this time round, they are a decent compound and look the part too but they just don't cope with weights well after a point, so I'm going to attempt some inserts to give them some support.....I don't really want to sink £50 into more boots [emoji31]

Yoshi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Yoshimoto]

Shakedown teething issues....so far sorted.

Watch out though....first run with the brass hexes there was binding at the front, a quick measure later and the shoulder has been Dremel'ed from the back side of the front hex's around the drive pin slot,this then takes up less room on the axle and allows the pin to fully seat without the shoulder fouling the bearing.... giving a nice solid bolted up wheel that spins under its own weight,unlike the plastic hex's.

Next up was the binding at the front axle... while using anything over 1/4 steering....the axle was trying to swing left to right binding at the front input shaft.....this was the driveshaft out of phase and easily sorted but really ?

Checked the diff internals too and although quiet and smooth I added some Lucas Extra HD blue grease and worked it round turning the center driveshaft with my fingers before closing it all up again.....buttery smooth [emoji108]

The servo saver is rubbish at best and only serves to completely ruin the connection between driver and direction.....nipped up for the time being......it's got to go.

Added approx 13g of lead to the back of the front diff with some more to follow when I get round to cutting some up.

Still to see rock's.......but it's all plugged together and looking tidy with it's new layout.

I need to sort my course out also,as the trucks get better the course needs to evolve too [emoji2923]

[emoji41]

Yoshi

 

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[Yoshimoto]

The Emax servo arrived this morning,got it all fitted up and noticed it's a smidgen bigger than my other one but still mounted into the stock tray no bother.I did use two M1.4x8mm hex bolts and some 3D spacers I had made previously along with a dab of UHU Por.
I have decided to dump all the stock electrics,this is a second 24 and if I'm building this to run along side my other,I'll not be content, what was I thinking?
Anyway I found the factory Long link kit in the state's at fair value, so I'll wait and build this a Jeep as intended...there's no rush....I've got a awesome Jeep already and I want another one.
It's gonna cost me for the ESC and DSMR Tx I know but it's worth it I feel...no point in going backwards is there?
Yoshi [emoji41]

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[Yoshimoto]

Love the new plates [emoji41]

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[Yoshimoto]

Turbo racing mini brushed ESC.
Why haven't I seen or heard of these before?
Anybody run one? Instant forward to reverse with drag brakes and a good size for this job [emoji41]
Yoshi.

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[Yoshimoto]

Well it fits well enough but it's got a way too fast start-up for this 24,the stock ESC is much better (read actually workable) in this respect.
The settings for NiMH/LiPo and running mode;forward reverse (boat)...forward brake reverse and forward with instant reverse and drag(crawler) are set using jumper plugs just like some larger ESC.
Wish I had a spare micro kicking round for this may be.
Yoshi [emoji41]

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[Yoshimoto]

The long links took 17 days from New Jersey USA....I can do a bit more now.
[emoji41]

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