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Stupar's Carisma Blazer money pit!!!!!!


stupar

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So having acquired my kit, I have been building the chassis up over the last few days and now it sits as a complete roller ready to go on to the next stage.

 

This is a really good kit and it goes together really well.  Below is the obligatory flex shot.  I am happy with 4 inches of flex and all wheels still in contact with the surface too.

I did much reading on shock oil weights and read that a lot of people opted for between 30 and 40WT.  In the end I went a bit further and chose 80WT for a more slowed down shock travel.

 

For those with beady eyes (excuse the pun) yes I need to re do the wheels as they aren't sitting spot on.  To be honest I will probably sell on these wheels and replace with a set of Austar steel wheels instead.   One day though......just one day I will get a set of beadlocks to sit right.

 

I will update this thread as I take the Coyote through its transformation journey into a ready to run rig.

 

31401434438_fd82b5e88e_h.jpgFlex by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

Edited by stupar
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10 minutes ago, Gaz! said:

Still not heard owt back about the servos either mate....

 

No worries mate just ping me a message when you know what the crack is. 

1 minute ago, DartmoorTrails said:

Plastic steering rods?

Will be paying close attention to this build as I'm sure I'll have one of these ready for the G6 next year emoji848.pngemoji106.png

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

Yeah the only upgrades over the RTR is the aluminium shocks (which are really nice), the CMS and upfront battery tray, new shock mounts and  the wheels and tyres. 

 

Boomracing do a metal steering link but I think SCX10 ones fit too with a bit of fettling. 

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I really enjoyed my Sca-1e kit too, a few quirks in the manual but the whole thing goes together really well. The shocks are great to build and operate far better than the stock RTR units. I went with an Austar 35t motor with non stock 13t pinion, hobbywing 1080 esc and a 17kg metal gear servo and tactic ttx300 radio. 

I changed the steering links to one of my own construction and also an rc4wd superlift link for added scale appeal. Also upgraded to full bearing instead of the bronze bushes. 

She had her maiden run a couple of weeks ago and performed fantastic keeping up with an scx10.2. 

0297F6D0-81D9-4355-BB5F-AF0B1395EA76.thumb.jpeg.598e863c42c250190ed73fe29e00066c.jpeg671E30D1-8886-49E4-B406-C6A9A7DA46C8.thumb.jpeg.195b25cb5a9c622c23407fb7f8da47b2.jpeg

Edited by Wabom1981
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8 hours ago, Wabom1981 said:

I really enjoyed my Sca-1e kit too, a few quirks in the manual but the whole thing goes together really well. The shocks are great to build and operate far better than the stock RTR units. I went with an Austar 35t motor with non stock 13t pinion, hobbywing 1080 esc and a 17kg metal gear servo and tactic ttx300 radio. 

I changed the steering links to one of my own construction and also an rc4wd superlift link for added scale appeal. Also upgraded to full bearing instead of the bronze bushes. 

She had her maiden run a couple of weeks ago and performed fantastic keeping up with an scx10.2. 

0297F6D0-81D9-4355-BB5F-AF0B1395EA76.thumb.jpeg.598e863c42c250190ed73fe29e00066c.jpeg671E30D1-8886-49E4-B406-C6A9A7DA46C8.thumb.jpeg.195b25cb5a9c622c23407fb7f8da47b2.jpeg

What did you use to make your lower steering link? Is that M3 bar and standard rod ends

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1 hour ago, capri-boy said:

I think I'd heard those alu shocks are derived from the Carima GTB ones - and they weren't bad at all on a micro racer.  Does anyone know the eye to eye length?  

 

A quick and dirty measure on the rig and they come in at approx 100mm Eye to eye

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So the Coyote got some new shoes today thanks to @toyolienselling to me his Boom Racing Kraits.

 

These are the easiest beadlocks I have ever had the joy of putting together and I think they are going to suit the rig nicely. 

 

Note - body shell sits high as I have not cut the posts ready for their final resting position for the shell. 

 

43631656570_d5c83d5e42_b.jpgBoom Racing Kraits by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sooooo............ 

 

The coyote shell got sold and an RC4WD blazer found its way in instead! 

 

Wheelbase is identical on both the body and the Coyote chassis so it is now a case of finding the best way to mount the body. 

 

Also up for consideration is shorter more scale like shocks and also more scale like tyres on either on 1.9 or 1.55 wheels

 

Decisions decisions.............. 

 

_20181103_083123.JPG

Edited by stupar
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  • 2 weeks later...

Another little progress update although I think this thread needs moved to the replica scale section as this thing isn't going to be doing much crawling. 

 

So things done now include - 

Savox servo with alloy servo horn

 

Junfac SCX10 shock braces

 

RC4WD 90mm ultimate scale shocks

 

I'm also awaiting some Chinese SCX10 alloy axles which should arrive soon. _20181114_195502.JPG.84b81636f27c04ce6a7e119be9d2f77c.JPG

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  • 1 month later...

Making slow progress with this. 

The CNC axles whilst nice to look at cause quite a few headaches elsewhere which resulted in tweaking links, clocking axles and fitting smaller shocks

 

Finally happy with its stance

DSC_0387-01.jpeg.8e504fac8c114dd5ca03d47660470aa9.jpeg

 

Next up is the acquisition of some 1.55 wheels and some Interco Irok ND tyres hopefully i  the new year. 

Edited by stupar
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I feel like the tortoise amongst you hares when it comes to completing a rig -
Some more slow and steady progress in the shape of an RC4WD steering link
RC4WD superlift decals on the shocks
Initial install of a quicrun 1080

Slow and steady they say eh ?

 

31602783177_e105f9caae_b.jpgDSC00301 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

 

46543084521_e51501ae8a_b.jpgDSC00297 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

 

46491125662_1e0c69e46e_b.jpgDSC00299 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

 

31602784347_55a481c129_b.jpgDSC00300 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

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Another update on what has turned into my own personal money pit.

 

This time - drive shafts

 

So whilst the Carisma offerings where ok and served a purpose, with the new axles installed the rear drive shaft had a slight bind in it.

Solution - drop 50 notes on the Boomracing BADASS TRX4 driveshaft set.

Result - smoother, no binding and looks far better over stock.

 

47106279542_f226d8dfb6_b.jpgDSC00829 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

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Another small update. 

 

After a lot (and I mean a lot) of indecisions over wheels I finally settled on the the RC4WD deep dish 1.55s in black. 

 

I was always concerned about the big offset but I think the width of the blazer body will help. 

 

32303942187_3a18e997c9_b.jpgFB_IMG_1551437232661 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

 

46522410304_6c2794c16f_b.jpgFB_IMG_1551279593997 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

 

Hopefully my Interco Irok ND tyres arrive tomorrow so I can get them fitted and start working the body into its final position. 

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Ok so small progress report -

 

The Irok NDs are beaded up on the deep dish wheels.  Sitting underneath the body I would say the track width is spot on (wanted a little bit of overhang but not too much).

 

With the wheels/tyres on the chassis I get a comfortable 40mm of flex with all tyres still in contact which is not bad from the 75mm Cross shocks.  I didn't want super flex but i still wanted to retain some.

 

Next up will be to start working the body down a touch and lock it into its final resting place.

 

33405750208_2e2844eea9_b.jpg_20190304_171434 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

 

33405750028_5e61e176ff_b.jpg_20190304_184324 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

 

46558318714_9069001cea_b.jpg_20190304_184240 by Stuart Pardue, on Flickr

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1 hour ago, Gaz! said:

Looks bang on chap :good:

Cheers Gaz, 

I'm happy with the overall stance so far. 

I'm still head scratching about the body drop.

If I chop the rear suspension mounts I can get an instant 12mm drop so will do this anyway but any more than that will require cutting of the truck bed.

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