300bhp/ton Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 19 minutes ago, Nickarla said: Ok, I think Im set. With regards to the Lipos am I right in thinking that for general bashing the 30c will be enough? If I move to a brushless system in a few months such as this Turnigy will this still be ok or would it be better to look for a high c rating to start with? 30c will probably be fine tbh. Although there is more to the number. C is a representation of the capacity. E.g for a 4000mah pack. 4000mah / 1000 = 4. This is C for this pack and usually the rate to charge at (some packs can charge at multiples of C). 30c in this case means 30 x 4 = 120. This means the pack is rated for 120amp draw. Some packs will claim a Constant and Burst amp draw rating. But sadly many do not and don’t let you know which the rating may refer too. Burst rating will be higher as it means the pack can deliver higher amps for a short period of time. Brushed setups actually tend to pull more amps than brushless for comparable performance. A better battery will normally feel more “punchy”. And support performance for longer. Ie a 70c 4000mah pack will normally last longer than a 30c 4000mah. Espcially on higher performance setups. But overall yes. Such a battery is likely fine. Remeber a 5200mah 30c has a higher amp draw than a 4000mah 30c. See the calculation above. Meaning big capacity lower C packs may still perform very well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) Umm, I understood most of that, lol. To dumb it down further as my head is spinning with Deans, XTs, bullets, Cs, amps etc. would it be worth spending £20 for a 45c over a £13 for a 30c battery? Edited March 24, 2018 by Nickarla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kpowell911 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 3 hours ago, Nickarla said: I initially asked for the Tamiya connector to be changed but they were very reluctant saying it was unnecessary suggesting an adapter would be better and they didn't advise cutting a perfectly good cable. Who said that? If thats their advice I wouldnt be using them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 Modelsports. Don't know who though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Nickarla said: Umm, I understood most of that, lol. To dumb it down further as my head is spinning with Deans, XTs, bullets, Cs, amps etc. would it be worth spending £20 for a 45c over a £13 for a 30c battery? As mentioned about the C rating is irrelevant without knowing the capacity as you combine the two of these to calculate the max amp rating. However I doubt in a light 10th scale with a 550 motor you will be getting close to the limit on either a 30c or 45c of a decent capacity 2S battery the correct size for the battery tray in the Bugsta, Even upgrading to brushless isn't going to tax it. LiPo have silly capacity and current delivery capability. 120A (30C 4Ah) at 8.4V is over 1000W... As for the connector: Tamiya is junk and falls apart / melts under proper load, Deans are a pig to solder and heat shrink, bullets are nice with fat cable and can be done with a torch but you have to be confident you'll get polarity right, XT60 are pretty easy to solder and are plenty for anything 1/10th. f you search Hobbyking you'll find a battery with XT60's and the battery is the only tricky one to resolder, charger leads and ESC are much less hassle as they aren't a risk if they short unconnected to anything else. Edited March 24, 2018 by ghazghul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 I'm going to go with XT60 connectors. Unfortunately the battery I'm after only seems to come in XT90. Should be fine though, Ill just make sure I isolate each lead and do them individually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Just now, Nickarla said: I'm going to go with XT60 connectors. Unfortunately the battery I'm after only seems to come in XT90. Should be fine though, Ill just make sure I isolate each lead and do them individually. Good choice, you can always pop some heat shrink over the loose lead whilst you solder the other one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobFandango Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 So no real need for XT90 then? XT60 is fine? I’ll be changing DBXL-E and eventually Traxxas Xmaxx, XT60 or XT90? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 (edited) 19 minutes ago, RobFandango said: So no real need for XT90 then? XT60 is fine? I’ll be changing DBXL-E and eventually Traxxas Xmaxx, XT60 or XT90? Use XT90’s on your largescale models, much higher current, anything smaller and you will be running around like headless chicken screaming for a fire extinguisher !!. Edited March 27, 2018 by QRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 1 hour ago, Nickarla said: Why? More current = need thicker conductor. Too thin a conductor and the resistance is too high. This results in a voltage drop and heat in the conductor which reduces the resistance which increases heat etc etc until the conductor or insulator melts. This applies to the cable and the connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonedef Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 As QRC has said, large-scale rc's draw more amps which the XT90's can handle Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Sorry I read that as use a smaller scale on XT90 and it will need a fire extinguisher. Makes sense now, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vimto2000 Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 I use xt90 on my carnage and works fine! I keep all my lipos on xt90s and deans on my nimh batteries! Just for ease really! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Personally I prefer Deans due to their wide acceptance within the industry. The vast majority of batteries and speed controllers can be bought with Deans fitted as standard. They are also widely used at my club, so if I need to borrow a battery off a mate, or lend one to someone, they will be compatible. Some people find them difficult to hold, but if you get the ones with the ridges moulded into the plugs, they are easy enough to grip. And they really aren't that difficult to solder once you have had a little practice. A third hand tool helps. (I tried XT60s, but found they pulled apart a bit too easily for my liking. I also tried bullets, but didn't trust myself to always get the polarity right.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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