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Hobao Hyper VS(e) Owners Thread


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No i havent got either. Do u know what size motor fan i should get? Its got the stock motor in it? Also bit of weird question does anyone know what size heat shrink i need for overlander batteries using dean connector ??

There’s loads of fans and heat sinks on eBay and in various model shops, like this;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401215641099.

Cut some holes in your body too- it’s so hot outside atm that it probably needs some airflow.

As for battery heat shrink, measure the circumference of the battery and get some heat shrink 5-10mm bigger.

Just trial and error, if the batteries are getting so hot that they are melting the heat shrink should tell you something about the way the buggy is running, or the way you’re using it.


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I'm waiting for my vse roller to come so I've been trying to research what I'm going to put in it. I've been thinking along the lines of a Hobbywing WP8BL150  and either a fake castle 1512 or a surpass 4076. I'll be honest I'm a bit baffled by the differences in motors, can anyone enlighten me?

 

Also recommendations on a rx/tx please. 

 

Thanks Dom

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5 hours ago, DomP said:

I'm waiting for my vse roller to come so I've been trying to research what I'm going to put in it. I've been thinking along the lines of a Hobbywing WP8BL150  and either a fake castle 1512 or a surpass 4076. I'll be honest I'm a bit baffled by the differences in motors, can anyone enlighten me?

 

Also recommendations on a rx/tx please. 

 

Thanks Dom

 

Ok, all things being equal...

 

The bigger the diameter motor, the more torque it has.  Same for length.  So a 4074 motor will have more torque than a 4068, as would a 4068 over a 3668.   (XXYY - XX is diameter, YY - length).

 

The lower the KV (KV is 1000rpm/v)  the more the torque - so a 4068 motor of 2000kv has more torque than a 4068 motor of 2400kv.

 

Higher the KV, higher the current draw - so a 4068 2000kv motor will use less than a 4068 2650kv.

 

There's other considerations, but generally you can't control it without changing brand - such as motor winding - which will affect torque, rpm and power consumption.  One thing BL motors don't lack for is torque, and you don't need masses of it in 1/8 ebuggy (Vse).  Motors are also rated for voltage / rpm's and whilst many can be overvolted for short periods it's not advisable.  At this scale motors will be 4 pole, occasionally 6.  6 pole motors can cause issues with some esc's on 6s, and the last thing is sensored, or sensorless.  Sensored motors have an extra part inside, which tells the esc what position the rotor is at, which means they run much smoother, and have far better low speed control - great for racing but at this scale many racers do without.  I've also heard that sensored motors run hotter.. 

 

So.... for 4S running, giving you headroom on the esc, I'd get the fake 2650kv and whack a 16t pinion on and go from there.  It'll be a missile but run times will suffer - depending on driving profile you might get as low as ten mins on a 5000mah lipo.

 

for 6s running, the surpass (2000kv?) will enable you to gear down to get the same speed as the above set up, and run times will improve.

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43 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

 

Ok, all things being equal...

 

The bigger the diameter motor, the more torque it has.  Same for length.  So a 4074 motor will have more torque than a 4068, as would a 4068 over a 3668.   (XXYY - XX is diameter, YY - length).

 

The lower the KV (KV is 1000rpm/v)  the more the torque - so a 4068 motor of 2000kv has more torque than a 4068 motor of 2400kv.

 

Higher the KV, higher the current draw - so a 4068 2000kv motor will use less than a 4068 2650kv.

 

There's other considerations, but generally you can't control it without changing brand - such as motor winding - which will affect torque, rpm and power consumption.  One thing BL motors don't lack for is torque, and you don't need masses of it in 1/8 ebuggy (Vse).  Motors are also rated for voltage / rpm's and whilst many can be overvolted for short periods it's not advisable.  At this scale motors will be 4 pole, occasionally 6.  6 pole motors can cause issues with some esc's on 6s, and the last thing is sensored, or sensorless.  Sensored motors have an extra part inside, which tells the esc what position the rotor is at, which means they run much smoother, and have far better low speed control - great for racing but at this scale many racers do without.  I've also heard that sensored motors run hotter.. 

 

So.... for 4S running, giving you headroom on the esc, I'd get the fake 2650kv and whack a 16t pinion on and go from there.  It'll be a missile but run times will suffer - depending on driving profile you might get as low as ten mins on a 5000mah lipo.

 

for 6s running, the surpass (2000kv?) will enable you to gear down to get the same speed as the above set up, and run times will improve.

Oh that clears a few things up thanks, now I understand the motor number a bit more. So to run 4s and improve run times I could go with the surpass but take a hit on top end speed?

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On 31/05/2020 at 16:38, DomP said:

Oh that clears a few things up thanks, now I understand the motor number a bit more. So to run 4s and improve run times I could go with the surpass but take a hit on top end speed?

 

Yes, or you could gear up over what the 2650kv would allow. For me 2000kv on 4s doesn't work for bashing in a buggy, YMMV.

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1 hour ago, capri-boy said:

 

Yes, or you could gear up over what the 2650kv would allow. For me 2000kv on 4s doesn't work for bashing in a buggy, YMMV.

Not sure I understand the first bit

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On 31/05/2020 at 15:52, capri-boy said:

So.... for 4S running, giving you headroom on the esc, I'd get the fake 2650kv and whack a 16t pinion on and go from there.  It'll be a missile but run times will suffer - depending on driving profile you might get as low as ten mins on a 5000mah lipo.

 

I'll agree and disagree, It will be a missile, It will give you low run times, So I would look at any number of other motors with a lower KV, The Cheap 2250KV  black cans are good(I have noticed there no 25 quid anymore), I only say cos I have one of the fakes on my shelf that was in my S350, Now that car is light, But the run times were atrocious, It just seemed so inefficient, I have a black can 2250 in my Muggy, Now that truck is heavy with Thunder Tiger MT4 G3 wheels and alloy arms, But still returned run times 50% longer than the S350.

 

If there both the same sort of price I would go for the Black can over the Castle fake, Just another opinion. 

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3 hours ago, HoneyBadger44 said:


I think he’s saying that on 4s, you can gear higher on a 2000kv than you can on a 2650kv.


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So something like a surpass 2250 would be a nice halfway house? I have to admit I'm a bit baffled, the more I read the less I understand

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4 minutes ago, DomP said:

So something like a surpass 2250 would be a nice halfway house? I have to admit I'm a bit baffled, the more I read the less I understand

 

I think it is, 2000KV used to be the defacto standard,  And nothing has changed, Especially when it comes in buggy's.

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It’s personal depending on what your doing bashing racing racing.

 

I have 5-7-3 for road race

For bashing 30-50-10k

Front Centre Rear. But I can swap about.

 

For some it’s an exact science for me it’s about making sure the diffs are built correctly & the grease removed, no big problems found just the orange diff gasket off its seating that looks like they toss in as a after thought.

 

Shocks I top up with 48wt which is 500cst.

 

I’ve still left the shock oil in as it was good enough to run with, I’ll probably do a full change after 6 months.

 

 

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Diffs transit grease it’s ok to run on but like I say I like to rebuild before a run, I’ve come across many loose screws on drive lines. Not with Hobao mostly with Traxxas or Arrma

 

Shock oil no clue but it’s good enough to get you out and about.

 

 

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Hi all,

 

I’m sure this has been debated Many times.

 

....what would your recommendations be on diff oils for the Hobao Hyper VSe please?

 

i know I don’t want the fronts ballooning so I always go with 500k in centre.

 

...should I go with 7k in front and 5k in rear?

 

I won’t be racing just general bashing in park.

 

Thanks

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Hi all,

 

I’m sure this has been debated Many times.

 

....what would your recommendations be on diff oils for the Hobao Hyper VSe please?

 

i know I don’t want the fronts ballooning so I always go with 500k in centre.

 

...should I go with 7k in front and 5k in rear?

 

I won’t be racing just general bashing in park.

 

Thanks


Sounds like a good start[emoji1474]


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Can anyone help me ?? Just been playing on the golf course and my car has just cut out. So thers power going to it cos the esc fan is running. My esc is constantly flashing red. When i turn it on its flashes green then flashes red. Also which is weird i fitted a new fan for me esc last week it was hobbywing 5v fan from modelsport, it has never fan full speed like the old one but when iv stared to have this problem now its started running full speed then going slow so its pulsing the fan speeds. Do i need an new esc ??  

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I saw on a youtube video a chap had fitted the china chassis braces and fitted fine,

 

Well mine didnt ha ha rear one was ok but the front was miles off. The holes didn't line up at the bottom and then it was about 3mm too high to mount the front plate on , shame they didnt fit as they looked pretty cool 

 

I've placed an order for all the graphite parts that said they were in stock but then were not , also some cnc parts , but looks like theres a backlog with all this covid crap going on .

20200608_220737.jpg

20200608_214231.jpg

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