Redback Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 Another transmission test for the outlaw, this ones a homebrew mod1 full steel so should be pretty bullet proof. Allows use of the big sensored motor i had no use for, should be pretty nippy, hope it still crawls well. Wont bore with the details here, will update the high torque thread, just noting it also allows use of new driveshafts 😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Sorted handling and a wide open space makes brushless 2s seem very pedestrian 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 At least no rocks jumped in front of you this time tho 🤣 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 What wheels are on this cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 4 minutes ago, Iain .R said: What wheels are on this cheers On which? Mine or Redbacks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Yours m8 as I'm getting bit fed up footage on the outlaw lol . Iv got zorro wheels on mine and its 90%better but still flips and the speed your doing is flip speed on turn lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 These wheels: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246376/ With stock Outlaw tyres and improved foams donated from an FTX Ravine, not perfect the foams could do with being wider. Carnage front sway bar: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-sway-bar-sets-fr-rr-carnage-365932 The real difference comes from the Wraith pattern rear sway bar: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metal-Sway-Bar-Stabilizer-Mount-For-RC-Axial-Wraith-90026-90048-90050-YETI-RR10-/174689894149?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Also moving my battery lower, forward and transverse… …that’s an old picture though, I’ve got an alloy chassis now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHill Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Hi, First of all, what a fantastic thread! The information, advice and tips I have gained from reading it have been invaluable. I've taken the plunge and decided to buy an Outlaw as my first ever RC Car! I'm in the process of putting together an upgrade list and I'm looking for some advice on which servo to upgrade to.. Would a 17kg servo be okay once I upgrade to Brushless or is that too much/too little? Thanks in advance! 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 (edited) 5 minutes ago, WHill said: Would a 17kg servo be okay once I upgrade to Brushless or is that too much/too little? That would be great - the stock servo is a measly 3kg plastic geared nonsense, I happen to run a 25kg monster but only because I bought a job lot for cheaps. Metal gears would be the thing to look out for. Edited May 24, 2021 by walkbythesea 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHill Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 1 hour ago, walkbythesea said: That would be great - the stock servo is a measly 3kg plastic geared nonsense, I happen to run a 25kg monster but only because I bought a job lot for cheaps. Metal gears would be the thing to look out for. Thanks for your help! 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Hi 16 hours ago, walkbythesea said: These wheels: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/246376/ With stock Outlaw tyres and improved foams donated from an FTX Ravine, not perfect the foams could do with being wider. Carnage front sway bar: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-sway-bar-sets-fr-rr-carnage-365932 The real difference comes from the Wraith pattern rear sway bar: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metal-Sway-Bar-Stabilizer-Mount-For-RC-Axial-Wraith-90026-90048-90050-YETI-RR10-/174689894149?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Also moving my battery lower, forward and transverse… …that’s an old picture though, I’ve got an alloy chassis now. Hi m8 thanks for the info . I changed the back lay out on my outlaw I removed the big long shocks and the sway bars and put on some front carnage shocks which fits perfect and looks better too . But iv kept the item in my watch list if I change my mind As for the tyre/wheels . What is beadlock how do they work as says no glue needed . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 the wheels are in 3 parts an inner part that goes inside the tyre then a front and back of the wheel which screw together trapping the tyre bead between the 3 parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Thanks mmmm like the sound that as iv just redone my zorro wheels and mmmm not to keep on the finish look I think the glue wont hold . What.was wrong with your inserts have you tried the pipe insulation or hair buns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHill Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, walkbythesea said: That would be great - the stock servo is a measly 3kg plastic geared nonsense, I happen to run a 25kg monster but only because I bought a job lot for cheaps. Metal gears would be the thing to look out for. Are all servos the same size and pretty much 'plug and play'? I wish considering buying this which has metal gears: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005001530980323.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.11b8781cmanLYB&browser_id=3d80e1f597554194995dfd501dd925ac&aff_trace_key=586bf58d140847d4a58fade52a9c4e74-1621591268958-06972-_d6Zz24x&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=179a2cb4d44973bac611d6c6b2d5c5ea789d22b4ac&gclid=&_imgsrc_=ae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FH636d063d527b4a1d9c42a00f1639209dB.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg_.webp Edited May 25, 2021 by WHill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 (edited) These are the servos I use: https://banggood.app.link/XHNd4ZpJqfb They are a little larger than stock so read the discussions about fitting them on pages 111 onwards, click below: Edited May 25, 2021 by walkbythesea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHill Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 25 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: These are the servos I use: https://banggood.app.link/XHNd4ZpJqfb They are a little larger than stock so read the discussions about fitting them on pages 111 onwards, click below: Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I think I'll just buy the alloy chassis and fit the new servo to that instead of butchering the current plastic chassis. It feels far too flimsy anyway! Am I correct in thinking that the alloy chassis is completely flat so won't require any modifications to fit a larger servo? Thanks again. 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 10 minutes ago, WHill said: Am I correct in thinking that the alloy chassis is completely flat so won't require any modifications to fit a larger servo? That is correct, you may just need to shim the servo slightly forward off the posts with washers to avoid the back rubbing on the centre driveshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUDFORCE Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 3 hours ago, walkbythesea said: That is correct, you may just need to shim the servo slightly forward off the posts with washers to avoid the back rubbing on the centre driveshaft. Yeah or just sand off a bit of material off of the back of the servo like I did lol 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHill Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 (edited) This will sound like a very stupid question to most people, but where the hell am I supposed to put the antenna wire that connects to the receiver?! When I first purchased the Outlaw, I read the instructions and it stated that the wire should go through the hole in the top of the receiver box, the plastic tube should go over the wire and then the tube should be fitted into that same hole.. Well, when I took the shell/body off to do this, the wire was already coming out of a small slot in the bottom of the receiver box, and this looks like the most logical place that it should come out of because the receiver won't fit in any other way.. To cut a long story short, I snapped the receiver antennae wire trying to bend it back on itself through the small slot in the bottom of the receiver box, and then thread it back through the hole in the top (as it states in the instruction manual). I ordered a new one and I don't want to have to make the same mistake again! What am I missing here?! The first picture is the small slot in which the wire threaded through out of the box.. The second picture is the hole which the wire is suppose to go through (according to the instruction manual).. I hope my question is clear? Edited May 25, 2021 by WHill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOFX Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 I wrapped the antenna round the roll cage & zip tied it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 I ditched the box entirely and have my receiver zip tied in a balloon for waterproofing - I do have the antenna wire vertical in a short tube zip tied to the frame as I found radio range was limited where I use the car if the antenna wasn’t upright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHill Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 (edited) Thanks guys. So it's not absolutely essential that the aerial be visible out of the shell? I assumed it had to be within line of sight of the transmitter. Edited May 26, 2021 by WHill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 44 minutes ago, WHill said: Thanks guys. So it's not absolutely essential that the aerial be visible out of the shell? I assumed it had to be within line of sight of the transmitter. Not at all, but if you’re operating at range it is beneficial if it has a vertical element, but really only an inch or two is needed and it’s fine if it’s inside the shell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHill Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 9 hours ago, walkbythesea said: Not at all, but if you’re operating at range it is beneficial if it has a vertical element, but really only an inch or two is needed and it’s fine if it’s inside the shell Well, you learn something new everyday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Ok guys . My mrs just asked if I want to change the motor on my wedding prezzie for dads day . So the hobbywing set up ok for the outlaw as I'm just wondering will I be spending all my time putting it back on its wheels .as its rolls like mad now ( if done no upgraded to this one yet (been busy with the other cars ) So i know you guys have put hobbywing in yours so do you spend a lot of time putting it back on its wheels . ( I will be getting a sway bar set for this and sorting it like the other outlaw but that dont have a hobbywing brusless set up just a cheap brusless set up ) . So what you say guys .and what other upgrades do I need to put on my outlaw . Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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