FTX Outlaw Owners

[Wobby's Hobby's]

Also, i live in Australia. Where do you find this 23t pinion gear, i can only find the mount. So could u plz tell me where an aussie might find this?

[DartmoorTrails]

Also, i live in Australia. Where do you find this 23t pinion gear, i can only find the mount. So could u plz tell me where an aussie might find this?

No idea sorry!
Part number though FTX6278
Happy hunting

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[Wobby's Hobby's]

Is this the one??

 

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/17024398912?iid=122085516097&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=122085516097&targetid=892931907096&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9069229&poi=&campaignid=9767737412&mkgroupid=99377632986&rlsatarget=pla-892931907096&abcId=1145981&merchantid=112374619&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpsmDtqGw6QIV1wRyCh3m_w6yEAQYBCABEgJJXfD_BwE

[DartmoorTrails]

Is this the one??
 
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/p/17024398912?iid=122085516097&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=122085516097&targetid=892931907096&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9069229&poi=&campaignid=9767737412&mkgroupid=99377632986&rlsatarget=pla-892931907096&abcId=1145981&merchantid=112374619&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpsmDtqGw6QIV1wRyCh3m_w6yEAQYBCABEgJJXfD_BwE

Sold out?
Just go by the part number fella, it'll be shared with a few other ftx models no doubt

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[Wobby's Hobby's]

here this may help

[RadioFish]

Probably asked before. But im guessing this is based on the yeti? If so would the yeti score shell fit? Just waiting on the 17T pinny and motor mount.
On a different note i have a hobao hyper 35A ESC and have been a complete donut tried to swap for bigger motor connectors andbnot surewhich is wich? I.E A is blue B is yellow C is orange?

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[Wobby's Hobby's]

Hi all, wanna change my shock oil to some thicker stuff, as it is too light. What is the origional shock oil in the car and what is the best to change it to.

[mark-essex]

Hi all,

 

Somebody has asked if I can fix their brushed Outlaw for them, they dropped it off last night.  They said it doesn't work and there was a burning smell.

 

I found the ESC to motor connectors were burnt, I've soldered them up again and the  ESC is now working.  However I think I need to reset it.  When I first turn it on I don't get the 'do rah me' sound as explained in the manual I downloaded.  When I turn it on I get a single sound.  The steering works.  As soon as I touch the throttle I get another beep and then the car goes into maximum speed until I turn it off at the switch.

 

Do you think it's toast, or just needs a reset?  I think a reset, there is one button on the ESC, does anyone know the procedure?  I'm ruling out a receiver/binding issue at the moment.

 

Thank s for any help.

[mark-essex]

3 hours ago, mark-essex said:

Hi all,

 

Somebody has asked if I can fix their brushed Outlaw for them, they dropped it off last night.  They said it doesn't work and there was a burning smell.

 

I found the ESC to motor connectors were burnt, I've soldered them up again and the  ESC is now working.  However I think I need to reset it.  When I first turn it on I don't get the 'do rah me' sound as explained in the manual I downloaded.  When I turn it on I get a single sound.  The steering works.  As soon as I touch the throttle I get another beep and then the car goes into maximum speed until I turn it off at the switch.

 

Do you think it's toast, or just needs a reset?  I think a reset, there is one button on the ESC, does anyone know the procedure?  I'm ruling out a receiver/binding issue at the moment.

 

Thank s for any help.

 

All sorted now!

[PraetoR]

What was it? It certainly sounds like a goosed ESC.

[stapi]

Hello All,

I have got a brushed Outlaw for my 5yo couple of weeks ago after his favourite toy RC car broke down. In a usual 'dad' way I have spent many hours researching what to buy and both my son and I love the car. I've never owned a proper RC car before and quickly learned that it will need more attention than his previous 'toys' but so far we are having a lot of fun.

Couple of days ago he was  using it in a long grass in the park and the car run out of juice and stopped, you could also get a whiff off slight burning smell from it. Visual inspection doesn't show any physical damage but when we've re-charged the batteries and tried it again it doesn't go very fast anymore. I've used the multimeter to check the output from the ESC to the motor and it looks ok going to 8.3V on full throttle.

I have read the most of the thread and a recurring theme seems to be poor standard ESC so I have ordered the Hobbywing 1060 from ebay but this was before the issue and I believe the shipping can take some time so I won't get a chance to replace it for a while, although based on the multimeter readings I don't believe its the ESC in this case anyways.

 

Has anyone come across similar issue? I think I may have to get hold of a new motor unless someone can suggest something else? Also, if buying a new motor, would you recommend to go with the replacement FTX6558 or something else?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

Edited May 24, 2020 by stapi
Add question about motor replacement

[Wobby's Hobby's]

9 hours ago, stapi said:

Hello All,

I have got a brushed Outlaw for my 5yo couple of weeks ago after his favourite toy RC car broke down. In a usual 'dad' way I have spent many hours researching what to buy and both my son and I love the car. I've never owned a proper RC car before and quickly learned that it will need more attention than his previous 'toys' but so far we are having a lot of fun.

Couple of days ago he was  using it in a long grass in the park and the car run out of juice and stopped, you could also get a whiff off slight burning smell from it. Visual inspection doesn't show any physical damage but when we've re-charged the batteries and tried it again it doesn't go very fast anymore. I've used the multimeter to check the output from the ESC to the motor and it looks ok going to 8.3V on full throttle.

I have read the most of the thread and a recurring theme seems to be poor standard ESC so I have ordered the Hobbywing 1060 from ebay but this was before the issue and I believe the shipping can take some time so I won't get a chance to replace it for a while, although based on the multimeter readings I don't believe its the ESC in this case anyways.

 

Has anyone come across similar issue? I think I may have to get hold of a new motor unless someone can suggest something else? Also, if buying a new motor, would you recommend to go with the replacement FTX6558 or something else?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

I had a similar thing happen to my car. We just took the motor out and than spun the shaft. It had seized up but once we gave it a good spin it was fine. I cannot say for sure this is what is happening to ur car but it worked for me. I did not see any smells tho, so it could be different

[stapi]

11 hours ago, Wobby's Hobby's said:

I had a similar thing happen to my car. We just took the motor out and than spun the shaft. It had seized up but once we gave it a good spin it was fine. I cannot say for sure this is what is happening to ur car but it worked for me. I did not see any smells tho, so it could be different

I’ve tried that already and still no difference. The motor feels a bit jerky when turning manually but on the other hand i’m not sure how it should feel like as I have never checked how it moves before the issue.

 

I am still considering ordering a new motor, any suggestions what is a good buy, bearing in mind the Hobbywing 1060 ESC should be coming in a couple of weeks? If i didn’t spend the money on the ESC already I would probably order a brushless kit instead but now seems like a bit of a waste and I don’t think my son is ready for it yet.

Edited May 25, 2020 by stapi
Add question about motor replacement

[Wobby's Hobby's]

4 minutes ago, stapi said:

I’ve tried that already and still no difference. The motor feels a bit jerky when turning manually but on the other hand i’m not sure how it should feel like as I have never checked how it moves before the issue.

The motor is supposed to feel jerky when you take it out of the car and try to spin it manually. It will not spin freely like a well oiled wheel or something. As for the ESC, i have ordered the same Hobbywing 1060 because of over heating and am still waiting for it to arive some 20 days later. This may or may not fix your problem in which case the motor may be the next thing that may need replacing or upgrading. I would also check all your spur gears, gear and driveshaft to see that they are not damaged. There may also be a bit of debris stuck somewhere. This is the downside of RC cars, they get expensive after replacing so many parts. 

[stapi]

I think I’ve checked everything and can’t find any damaged or stuck parts. I will order a motor, I think, and try if it helps while I wait for the ESC to be delivered (I was not in any rush at the time and saving a few quid seemed like a good idea).

Can someone recommend a good brushed motor for the Outlaw? Or should I just buy the standard FTX6558?

[Wobby's Hobby's]

Does anybody know what weight shock oil is put in stock, and what would be the best to stiffen it up a little.

[Rc car beginner]

On 18/08/2018 at 14:56, English outlaw said:

I give up....?....

....2 wheel drive only it had lost a grub screw...any one else had this problem, have waited days for a new cvd, installed fine, gave it some love n care here n there..tested wheels turn fast and stronge thinking it was all good again, put it on the deck n won't move, pick it up n the wheels instantly spin again?? 

 

On 18/08/2018 at 14:56, English outlaw said:

I give up....?....

....2 wheel drive only it had lost a grub screw...any one else had this problem, have waited days for a new cvd, installed fine, gave it some love n care here n there..tested wheels turn fast and stronge thinking it was all good again, put it on the deck n won't move, pick it up n the wheels instantly spin again?? 

My car went into two wheel as well 

I have no clue on how to fix it 

can someone help me please?

 

[Stormbringer]

cherk the grubscrew hasnt come out the driveshafts 

[Wobby's Hobby's]

Yes check the grub screw, that has happened to me multiple times and I would suggest putting a little loctite on the screw to stop it coming out

[Steve Wharton]

On 07/03/2018 at 01:06, PraetoR said:

Overlander Sport Track Hard Case 3250s

Hello All,

 

Looks like I'm a but late to the party, but better late than never...

 

I have just bought a lightly used brushed version of the outlaw from Ebay for £85.00, which was a bargain, and I am about to start my mods... I have read all 86 pages if this thread, but my opening question is, can anyone vouch for the carbon fibre chassis plate? Is it actual carbon fibre? Or should I get the aluminium version? I too am not a fan of blue hop ups...

 

Thanks,

 

Steve.

[Wobby's Hobby's]

 

34 minutes ago, Steve Wharton said:

Hello All,

 

Looks like I'm a but late to the party, but better late than never...

 

I have just bought a lightly used brushed version of the outlaw from Ebay for £85.00, which was a bargain, and I am about to start my mods... I have read all 86 pages if this thread, but my opening question is, can anyone vouch for the carbon fibre chassis plate? Is it actual carbon fibre? Or should I get the aluminium version? I too am not a fan of blue hop ups...

 

Thanks,

 

Steve.

 

To be completely honest with you Steve, I would not buy the carbon chassis or aluminum one. With aluminum, the chassis bends and when it does, it is completely useless and a waste of money. The plastic is just as strong in my opinion, as it has internal ribbing and bracing running along it, whereas the metal is only flat and rely's only on its metal properties to provide strength. The aluminum is way more expensive and the carbon fibre even more. For me, I would just stick with plastic. However, the aluminum parts that I would get would be the rear trailing arms, rear driveshaft, rear trailing arms holders, maybe rear links and any other bracket thing that maybe a weak point. Also if you plan on installing a way stronger servo, the steering links and front wheel holders maybe worth considering to get in aluminum. This is just about all I would get in aluminum, the rest would just be a waste of money. 

[tomr]

1 hour ago, Steve Wharton said:

Hello All,

 

Looks like I'm a but late to the party, but better late than never...

 

I have just bought a lightly used brushed version of the outlaw from Ebay for £85.00, which was a bargain, and I am about to start my mods... I have read all 86 pages if this thread, but my opening question is, can anyone vouch for the carbon fibre chassis plate? Is it actual carbon fibre? Or should I get the aluminium version? I too am not a fan of blue hop ups...

 

Thanks,

 

Steve.

red,grey and silver hop ups from here ,cheaper too 👍.      https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000019197617.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=9604713100&albag=99283534296&trgt=296904913880&crea=en4000019197617&netw=u&device=t&albpg=296904913880&albpd=en4000019197617&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlOD807C46wIV2O3tCh2GrQY8EAQYASABEgKmFfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[PraetoR]

I have to disagree with Wobby on this. The chassis has very little material around the screws that hold on the rear trailing arms, somewhere in the region of just 2mm.

 

2mm of soft plastic is very weak, indeed. The plastic chassis is notorious for breaking at that exact point. Most people who have used the Outlaw on more than a few occasions, have broken the chassis right at that point.

 

I hate the look of the blue chassis, but the metal chassis is sooo much stronger, at that critical point, that it makes it completely worth it. You are far less likely to break it, at the arm mounts, than you are with the plastic chassis.

 

Ignore the carbon one!

[Wobby's Hobby's]

9 hours ago, PraetoR said:

I have to disagree with Wobby on this. The chassis has very little material around the screws that hold on the rear trailing arms, somewhere in the region of just 2mm.

 

2mm of soft plastic is very weak, indeed. The plastic chassis is notorious for breaking at that exact point. Most people who have used the Outlaw on more than a few occasions, have broken the chassis right at that point.

 

I hate the look of the blue chassis, but the metal chassis is sooo much stronger, at that critical point, that it makes it completely worth it. You are far less likely to break it, at the arm mounts, than you are with the plastic chassis.

 

Ignore the carbon one!

Thank you for proving me wrong, I like it when people prove me wrong and so why. But as for me, I would not get one as I am not that serious in racing it and have had no prob with the plastic chassis and it is far too expensive for me, I just rely on birthday and christmas money, lol. No job and as for the red and silver parts from Aliexpress I would highly recommend as they are the same or similar parts for the fraction of the price, just about to order them.

[Steve Wharton]

Ok Chaps,

 

Thanks again for the input... I must say, I was actually sold on swapping the chassis plate out, my dileberation was between the carbon or Ali, but it looks like the ali has the better opinion... I have to agree, there is not enough meat at the rear mount trailing arm point... design flaw.

 

So horrible blue chassis plate it is then.