Hegs44 Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 So I noticed that I was getting better steering lock turning one way than the other. I've adjusted the steering trim and the steering dual rate dial. The ensured that the steering servo etc all tightened up. Still the same, steering lock favours one direction to the other. I noticed that the Servo Saver looks worn and favours one direction to the other when operating the steering. I can replace the servo saver. So any thoughts on this issue ? And is there an upgraded Servo saver, CNC or similar ? Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 You've still got the stock servo in yeah? Have you removed the servo arm in the past? To make sure things are central I normally have the arm off, set the controller steering trim to centre which moves the servo to its central point, then fit the servo arm with the wheels as straight as possible, then this should only require very little adjustment either on the controller or steering arms, if any at all. It'll have equal steering in either direction then. Though saying all that, you might have another underlying issue, as you say, worn parts. Is the servo saver slack? The servo could also be on its way out, if so, a good opportunity to beef things up with a stronger metal geared servo. Not sure if there's an ali upgrade for the steering servo?! try post up a pic if you can showing the worn saver. Hope you find the cure anyway! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Thanks for the info i will re-centre. Pics for info show the wear on the servo saver. Maybe its normal and not excessive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 I've ordered a new turnigy 17kg servo. The stock one simply struggles to fully extend the steering lock. Appreciate the steering lightens up when moving I will get the heavier one. Keep the stock as a spare. Ta Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 4 hours ago, Hegs44 said: I've ordered a new turnigy 17kg servo. The stock one simply struggles to fully extend the steering lock. Appreciate the steering lightens up when moving I will get the heavier one. Keep the stock as a spare. Ta Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yes a few of us have the 17kg servo, much better. Surprised they fitted such a low kg rating considering the size of the tyres on the rc. Looking at your servo saver, is there play (movement) from the servo side of it before it begins to move the steering arms? Perhaps it might appear ok when it's off the ground and you're testing it, but when there's a force acting against it it might suffer a little. I'll have a look at my Outlaw and see if the servo saver looks the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 I emailed the company and said it would be nice to have a slipper and adjustable servo saver.wish they would make a thicker chassis even the new update one looks like it would snap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 YES loads of PLAY ! That's the annoying bit. I understand how the system works but honestly!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 And the main drive shaft destroyed itself so it got the steel on. All good. Then today after 10 minutes on the flat !!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 FFS so do it just end up upgrading it all !! [emoji23][emoji23]Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Ah bummer... I didn't even use the stock plastic motor mount, went straight for the ali upgrade! I'd love to see an ali gearbox produced, that would see no flex at the important bit at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 15 hours ago, bosco72 said: I emailed the company and said it would be nice to have a slipper and adjustable servo saver.wish they would make a thicker chassis even the new update one looks like it would snap Fully agree it would be nice to have a slipper to protect the drivetrain. I've yet to snap the carbon chassis, and I have tried 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrighty8766 Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 14 hours ago, Hegs44 said: And the main drive shaft destroyed itself so it got the steel on. All good. Then today after 10 minutes on the flat !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Your pinion looks worn there too, maybe that's what caused the stripped spur? Best to get a hardened pinion, them stock brass pinions are terrible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 Which Hardened pinion ? Sorry not good with sizes. Also how do you remove the bearings from the front drive shaft !?? Ta Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 I fail to understand the logic in making the front end out of Carnage parts and then failing to use the carnage motor mount/slipper system. Would have required very little work to make it fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 On 6/10/2017 at 07:36, chewbacca said: I fail to understand the logic in making the front end out of Carnage parts and then failing to use the carnage motor mount/slipper system. Would have required very little work to make it fit. They could of done a much better with the chassis.there is plenty of room to have a middle diff and put the battery on the chassis.why did the cut the rear chassis with the big square out if it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 (edited) Going to be my new set up it lowers the battery down a lot. I want to put it side ways like the yeti but I need some one with a printer to make a top plate to attach the battery holder.also if any one wants to make a top plate so I can hook it up like this more secure I would buy one Edited June 12, 2017 by bosco72 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Hmmm interesting, may not be able to print it but should be able to come up with a model which can be used with places on the internet.Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Took it for a spin didn't flip not once.working on the torq twist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 So after shredding the spur gear. all dismantled but how do you re-mesh ? there is always one screw on engine mount that you can only tighten so much before you put the whole lot on to the chassis Video of Outlaw rebuild from spur gear replacement much appreciated. Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 or any RC mechs in the Gatwick area would like cash job to rebuild my machine ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 or any RC mechs in the Gatwick area would like cash job to rebuild my machine ? The mesh is pre-set by the mount on these, so you'll either have it or not depending which way round mount is.Iirc the bottom screw is at the 6 o'clock/central position in the mount, and the top will be the offset one.If you still want someone to take a look i'm travelling down sunday afternoon to crawley if thats anywhere near you? The train will get me there about 18:00ishSent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hegs44 Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Bieomax, you have solved it. When I dismantled the gears I did think it was preset. Then got embroiled in "Meshing" and now it makes complete sense and fits back together as you describe. I'm very grateful. Yes i am in Crawley and if I'm still stuck I will message you. Again thank you for the knowledge oh wise one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 No worries, happy to helpSent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Did anyone try to put the axial yeti rear swaybar on.i would like to know cause we need a stiffer one for this chassis twist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRichard Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 On 2017-6-12 at 16:42, bosco72 said: Going to be my new set up it lowers the battery down a lot. I too did this some time ago, figured it made sense. Also made a sort of front strut brace, rear brace and 2 wide arms to help stiffen up the chassis as I think all that flex was eventually transferring to the gearbox and not helping things there. Removed (by terrible landing) the rear wheel (along with most body panels) and added the bugsta wheels and it's now incredibly controllable in the air 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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