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FTX Outback Ranger


t2boats

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So tomorrow the waterproof 12kg servo and hobbywing 1060 should arrive and swap the battery esc around, squirt some grease into centre gearbox and add receiver then thats the little bugger sorted, Terry you also have a better low speed with the 1060 yeah?

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2 hours ago, johninderby said:

Just a note on greasing gearboxes and diffs. Too much grease will cause agitation and viscous drag and result in power loss. So enough grease but don't pack them solid. Just coating the gears with grease is enough. 

 

Thanks very much John

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Ok so this eve;

 

axels opened up and greased. They were really clean considering I had run through lots of water. 

 

Replaced oil in shocks. Tried 40 weight and it seemed the same as standard. 

 

I have now put 60 weight in. This is most likely going to be way too much. However, with heavier wet oil it rebounds really nicely. Smooth and steady. Need to try it out on the trail. 

 

40 weight seems to make it bounce. The shocks rebound quite quickly. Only time will tell. 

 

New wheels are coming tomorrow so I will put lots of weights in and glue them up. 

 

Re: front steering arm bolt. When it breaks as I am sure it will. Can you just put an m4 screw through it and a bolt at the bottom? 

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1 hour ago, Wabom1981 said:

How's life with your outback collection Fred?

had much time to take them around your garden course?

 

Collections fine thanks thinking of getting the new esc, not been out recently going through a terrible flare up - and weather absolutely awfull, - just seen your post on F/Book, joined both pages,

 

 

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1 minute ago, mamodman said:

 

Collections fine thanks thinking of getting the new esc, not been out recently going through a terrible flare up - and weather absolutely awfull, - just seen your post on F/Book, joined both pages,

 

 

Sorry to hear that Fred, hopefully you'll be on the mend soon and be able to get out with them. 

The ESC is a great upgrade! Transforms the outback. 

Im currently on the hunt for some spot lights to mount on the flat bed roll bar once it arrives, truck looks strange without lights. 

Good work on joining the FB groups. 

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19 minutes ago, TerryV34 said:

Ok so this eve;

 

axels opened up and greased. They were really clean considering I had run through lots of water. 

 

Replaced oil in shocks. Tried 40 weight and it seemed the same as standard. 

 

I have now put 60 weight in. This is most likely going to be way too much. However, with heavier wet oil it rebounds really nicely. Smooth and steady. Need to try it out on the trail. 

 

40 weight seems to make it bounce. The shocks rebound quite quickly. Only time will tell. 

 

New wheels are coming tomorrow so I will put lots of weights in and glue them up. 

 

Re: front steering arm bolt. When it breaks as I am sure it will. Can you just put an m4 screw through it and a bolt at the bottom? 

Not sure if you've seen some earlier posts, but I changed the position of the steering drag link to help relieve stress on the bolt!! Haven't snapped another bolt yet. 

I think the standard sized steering arm bolt that holds the steering arm and drag link is M2, if you were to step it up M4 I would worry the steering knuckle might become weakened an eventually pull through the plastic. 

Also the pivot joints in the steering arms will only accept M2. 

Ive recently collected some bits to make my own metal steering links and step the bolt sizes up to M3. 

I have the aluminium steering knuckles so will have to drill and tap them out. 

Will post up once I've gotten round to it.  

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5 minutes ago, Wabom1981 said:

Not sure if you've seen some earlier posts, but I changed the position of the steering drag link to help relieve stress on the bolt!! Haven't snapped another bolt yet. 

I think the standard sized steering arm bolt that holds the steering arm and drag link is M2, if you were to step it up M4 I would worry the steering knuckle might become weakened an eventually pull through the plastic. 

Also the pivot joints in the steering arms will only accept M2. 

Ive recently collected some bits to make my own metal steering links and step the bolt sizes up to M3. 

I have the aluminium steering knuckles so will have to drill and tap them out. 

Will post up once I've gotten round to it.  

Thank you. I haven't seen that no. Thank you. 

 

So did the m2 bolt just push straight through? I notice that half way down the current bolt there is a ball joint the steering arm can pivot. Guess if you just put an m2 bolt through it then the steering arm won't pivot as well. 

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16 minutes ago, Wabom1981 said:

Im currently on the hunt for some spot lights to mount on the flat bed roll bar once it arrives, truck looks strange without lights. 

Good work on joining the FB groups.

 Thanks are these any good Ebay  381313207086

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3 minutes ago, TerryV34 said:

Thank you. I haven't seen that no. Thank you. 

 

So did the m2 bolt just push straight through? I notice that half way down the current bolt there is a ball joint the steering arm can pivot. Guess if you just put an m2 bolt through it then the steering arm won't pivot as well. 

IMG_6322.thumb.JPG.8d21504ea7f11b966278aa1722f20dea.JPG

M2 nuts to the rescue, M2 x 20mm bolt also I think? 

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@TerryV34 I have also upgraded the servo horn on mine as I found the standard one had far too much flex, to the point where it eventually snapped. 

The upgraded servo horn is also longer than standard so brings the short steering arm into a more horizontal position giving more effective steering. 

Edited by Wabom1981
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Just now, Wabom1981 said:

IMG_6322.thumb.JPG.8d21504ea7f11b966278aa1722f20dea.JPG

M2 nuts to the rescue, M2 x 20mm bolt also I think? 

Ah ok. Brilliant so you just put the m2 bolt straight through and tighten with a nut job done. Result.  

 

I intend to really weight up the wheels the same as you so chances are the original bolt will break. 

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5 minutes ago, Wabom1981 said:

@TerryV34 I have also upgraded the servo horn on mine as I found the standard one had far too much flex, to the point where it eventually snapped. 

The upgraded servo horn is also longer than standard so brings the short steering arm into a more horizontal position giving more effective steering. 

I have a really nice metal futaba servo horn on the new servo which looks lovely. 

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13 hours ago, TerryV34 said:

Forgot to mention that a few weeks ago I made a dodgy bodge trailer. Need to paint it etc. Cost me about £10. 

 

TerryV34 that looks great, are you thinking of doing them for resale? - if so put my name down for one - not joking

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Well a good friend is building a scx10 ii kit. So I can compare when he finishes it. 
 
I am searching for unglued rims and tires so I can put weights in a spare set. Also going to cover the lower bits of the body in weights see what happens. 
I'm the anonymous friend he keeps referring to. Wondered why my ears were burning randomly.

And I haven't started the sucker yet. Gah.

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

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36 minutes ago, ADH66 said:

I'm the anonymous friend he keeps referring to. Wondered why my ears were burning randomly.

And I haven't started the sucker yet. Gah.

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
 

Howdy, 

 

get building Man. ?

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Horay all put back together, got the 2200s 2s lipo up front with a receiver in a balloon to waterproof it. The hobbywing 1060 on the rear which is also waterproof and used a screw on the top of the spur gear cover to mount the power switch, new 12kg servo which is also waterproof and front and rear axles done with waterproof grease. Prob cost a total of £40 and so dam worth it, only tried in the house but speedo a lot better and am looking forward to trying it out hopefully tomorrow as it should be a lot better with the drag brake on the 1060. Got some cheap wheels and tires off hobbywing also which are slightly smaller and maybe 2mm narrower but prob gona either chop the foam a little or remove it and maybe keep for just crawling indoors. Tomorrow shall be a good test as i will go back to the same place i first tried it, also running on xt60 connectors 

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