Does this look alright?

[charlieemc]

Hello, im sort of a noobie at nitro stuff, does this look ok, the wheels like shaky but are tightened, is it running at a good pace or?  (This is the first start)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OMA6fftZB4&feature=youtu.be

[mmushen]

2 minutes ago, charlieemc said:

Hello, im sort of a noobie at nitro stuff, does this look ok, the wheels like shaky but are tightened, is it running at a good pace or?  (This is the first start)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OMA6fftZB4&feature=youtu.be

I assume you are accelerating somewhat there,if not then you need to do some adjusting.

[charlieemc]

3 minutes ago, mmushen said:

I assume you are accelerating somewhat there,if not then you need to do some adjusting.

alright thanks for the information, was not accelerating i will make sure i adjust  next run, which one do i adjusted? sorry for so many questions just excited, is it this needle i need to turn?

Edited December 30, 2015 by charlieemc

[toddfg]

Read your instruction manual and re set the mixture screw, could be set wrong from the factory

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[DannyP]

Go through the manual and check all the radio, servos, idle gap etc.. is set correctly and go from there. The picture you have posted is of the high speed needle. Take your time or you could end up dramatically shortening the life of your engine. 

[charlieemc]

Just now, toddfg said:

Read your instruction manual and re set the mixture screw, could be set wrong from the factory

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Thanks danny todd, mushen, danny you gutta come down soon

[DannyP]

See if I can on the weekend, hopefully the weather will improve.

[charlieemc]

Just now, DannyP said:

See if I can on the weekend, hopefully the weather will improve.

ok cool, im off work friday and saturday 

[Burridge]

Have a look on YouTube about the basics of nitro engine running in and tuning, there's tonnes of videos that will give you a good base of knowledge and confidence with it!

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[charlieemc]

Just now, Burridge said:

Have a look on YouTube about the basics of nitro engine running in and tuning, there's tonnes of videos that will give you a good base of knowledge and confidence with it!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks burridge will look when i goto bed

[mmushen]

This is for the Hyper 7 but the basics are the same.

Look in your instructions to determine which needles are which though if you are not sure.

[charlieemc]

Just now, mmushen said:

This is for the Hyper 7 but the basics are the same.

Look in your instructions to determine which needles are which though if you are not sure.

thanks

[amandasum]

You should not be attempting to tune yet if this is the first start the only thing you should turn at the moment 

is the idle screw anti-clockwise to lower the idle speed after the first tank with the wheels off the ground you

must follow the break in procedure before setting hsn or lsn I have had one of these engines in my bullet for 

3 years and it still runs perfect.The needle in the pic is the hsn the lsn is the one at the end of the 

slide carb and the idle screw should be just below the lsn

Edited December 31, 2015 by amandasum

[Tamiyacowboy]

 

Can i step in here a mo. 

First off you MUST understand your engine, and what each little screw like needle does. Most rc nitro engine have three screws and these affect different parts of the engines power. let us start with the basics and what they do.

first of is the IDLE, you will hear this alot but its called something different, its called an idle gap. Inside your carb is a little barrel like butterfly valve, with a slight nick out of one edge. when closed up this little nick forms a gap - space and it is this thats the idler adjustment. there is a small screw that we adjust to open up the gap or close the gap, we tend to have this set so we have a gap of around 1mm to 1.5mm. when you first start your car it may rev  fairly high to make it drop the revs lower we would screw out the idler screw a very tiny amount when the engine is running and you would hear the engine revs slow down. 

LSN : this is a LOW SPEED NEEDLE, this adjusts the engine power low down (when your starting of the line) its you meat end of the power, your machine manual will have some settings like for an example LSN -1.5 turns out . what this means is to set it to a known factory setting the needle must be screwed in fully (do not over tighten here) then screwed out one and a half turns. so if your buggy is a bit flat low down in the power your LSN is what changes this ...... BUT BE WARNED !!!! if you play with this and mess it up your all the way back to the start again and have to reset the whole engine from start. 

HSN this is your high speed needle it governs the fuel and air mix allowed into the engine, wider the carb is opened the more fuel and air is allowed to mix and enter the engines ports and chambers, so we know what the meat is and the HSN is the gravy, this is the needle that adjusts that engines sound when its running flat out. as you open the throttle more fuel can flow through the carb, but if we have to much fuel the car puffs smoke like a steam locomotive and just does not like to go fast, it may even stall out when you try to rev it. if we go to to less fuel we call this running it lean, lots more air and a little fuel , the engine will start to rev very high and produce next to no smoke at all , its a bad sign damage will happen if left alone like this. so we use the HSN to adjust our top end speed but also the amount of fuel and air the engine can have at that time. 

Stock factory settings are just that, a know setting that SHOULD in theory have the engine fire over, if everything is running correct. problem is weather and other factors like start is charged enough, the engine is warm etc etc, its NOT a fool proof they will work, its a given enough tugs on the pullstart and enough juice in the glowstarter it will start.

NOW ONCE STARTED a new engine MUST have a run in period, in the old days and i still do now. i place the machine onto a brick or the likes to keep all wheels of the ground.
i fill the tank to the top and start the engine, then i leave it until it stalls out from fuel being used. ( 1st tank ) 
next i refill the tank and let the engine rest 20 mins, i restart it and now over the use of the full tank allow the engine to rev up a little and i mean a little bit, like a tickle on the throtle thats it. when that tanks gone, i fill it up again and go for a dive BUT KEEP BELLOW HALF THROTTLE, when its gone i refill and use that next tank but only allow the engine to be a max 75% throttle. and when its gone the last tank i let the buggy have full throttle for shortish - medium runs, 5 seconds at full throttle here and there. 

key point is not to over do the throttle use, you wnat your engine to wear in and bed down but not under a lot of strain (in the old days we would throw on a aircraft prop and run the motor in that way ) so just go easy and do not go crazy mad. the engine needs time to settle and get worn and loosen up, but it should do this under its own steam and not forced to by hard over use of throttle and a hard tune right from the start. 

Edited December 31, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[charlieemc]

21 minutes ago, Tamiyacowboy said:

 

Can i step in here a mo. 

First off you MUST understand your engine, and what each little screw like needle does. Most rc nitro engine have three screws and these affect different parts of the engines power. let us start with the basics and what they do.

first of is the IDLE, you will hear this alot but its called something different, its called an idle gap. Inside your carb is a little barrel like butterfly valve, with a slight nick out of one edge. when closed up this little nick forms a gap - space and it is this thats the idler adjustment. there is a small screw that we adjust to open up the gap or close the gap, we tend to have this set so we have a gap of around 1mm to 1.5mm. when you first start your car it may rev  fairly high to make it drop the revs lower we would screw out the idler screw a very tiny amount when the engine is running and you would hear the engine revs slow down. 

LSN : this is a LOW SPEED NEEDLE, this adjusts the engine power low down (when your starting of the line) its you meat end of the power, your machine manual will have some settings like for an example LSN -1.5 turns out . what this means is to set it to a known factory setting the needle must be screwed in fully (do not over tighten here) then screwed out one and a half turns. so if your buggy is a bit flat low down in the power your LSN is what changes this ...... BUT BE WARNED !!!! if you play with this and mess it up your all the way back to the start again and have to reset the whole engine from start. 

HSN this is your high speed needle it governs the fuel and air mix allowed into the engine, wider the carb is opened the more fuel and air is allowed to mix and enter the engines ports and chambers, so we know what the meat is and the HSN is the gravy, this is the needle that adjusts that engines sound when its running flat out. as you open the throttle more fuel can flow through the carb, but if we have to much fuel the car puffs smoke like a steam locomotive and just does not like to go fast, it may even stall out when you try to rev it. if we go to to less fuel we call this running it lean, lots more air and a little fuel , the engine will start to rev very high and produce next to no smoke at all , its a bad sign damage will happen if left alone like this. so we use the HSN to adjust our top end speed but also the amount of fuel and air the engine can have at that time. 

Stock factory settings are just that, a know setting that SHOULD in theory have the engine fire over, if everything is running correct. problem is weather and other factors like start is charged enough, the engine is warm etc etc, its NOT a fool proof they will work, its a given enough tugs on the pullstart and enough juice in the glowstarter it will start.

NOW ONCE STARTED a new engine MUST have a run in period, in the old days and i still do now. i place the machine onto a brick or the likes to keep all wheels of the ground.
i fill the tank to the top and start the engine, then i leave it until it stalls out from fuel being used. ( 1st tank ) 
next i refill the tank and let the engine rest 20 mins, i restart it and now over the use of the full tank allow the engine to rev up a little and i mean a little bit, like a tickle on the throtle thats it. when that tanks gone, i fill it up again and go for a dive BUT KEEP BELLOW HALF THROTTLE, when its gone i refill and use that next tank but only allow the engine to be a max 75% throttle. and when its gone the last tank i let the buggy have full throttle for shortish - medium runs, 5 seconds at full throttle here and there. 

key point is not to over do the throttle use, you wnat your engine to wear in and bed down but not under a lot of strain (in the old days we would throw on a aircraft prop and run the motor in that way ) so just go easy and do not go crazy mad. the engine needs time to settle and get worn and loosen up, but it should do this under its own steam and not forced to by hard over use of throttle and a hard tune right from the start. 

Holy I feel like I know it all after that but there is probably allot more thanks for that I understand lsn hsn and idle ?

[Tamiyacowboy]

1 minute ago, charlieemc said:

Holy I feel like I know it all after that but there is probably allot more thanks for that I understand lsn hsn and idle ?

 

Its a lot to take in, but knowing this basic stuff will come in so handy trust us. you will know exactly what people mean when they use the short term names for adjusting the motor.

first start up a nitro sounds rough, is very twitchy on how much throttle it gets, it can stall out, but its been set that way to allow the most air and fuel through for ticking over (idle)
your first 5 tanks on a nitro only 2-3 of those tanks you will get to try and drive the machine, it first needs to have a couple tanks run through without you driving it at all.

then you have a little try, its a teaser because you must still stick to the rules and drive slow and easy, but when its all done your into tuning the machine and then getting a propper drive from it