3D Printing Discussion

[Tamiyacowboy]

reprap Prusa are a iteration model , ie model one - two - three and like so on.

 

the latest version is the Prusa I3  : http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3

 

the version before iteration 3 was the two model called the mendal : http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_(iteration_2)

 

there are also variations on the mendal : http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Mendel_Variations

 

and before the two and three models and variations came the prusa mendal iteration one : http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_(iteration_1)

[Hyper-d]

Most of the prusa i3 designs are different seeing as theres no copyright so there really is no "genuine" reprap on the chinese sites after its a little hit and miss...

i have this one and its been very good http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Factory-High-Quality-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-with-2-Rolls-Filament/32357171936.html?spm=2114.031010208.0.673.7roRhZ

thay are not all the same no

The price seems to fluctuate a lot lol, seems to have jumped up 30 euro from your original link. Have a ppi refund on its way so soon as that lands I'll be ordering too

[baorevo]

The price fluctuates as it is based on the dollar and its value against chinese currency......... its pretty low at the minute at 209 euros

[baorevo]

I have the same as Baorevo.

 

I had my first issue with it today. 2 fails on the same print. 30 minutes of fixing and testing we are back in action.

 

Spool adapters are working and in place.

What happened ? minor issue ? 

[Vr5fx]

What happened ? minor issue ? 

 

 

On the same print I tried multiple objects, one of them moved so the print half fails. Then a few layers later the grubs in the extruder came out lol.

 

Back in business now.

[Tamiyacowboy]

guys when your printing and you think you have an error be sure its NOT the model-slicing causing the problem.

 

been playing with blender the modeling tool set and a few tutorials, when models are made some need cleaning up as

some polygons are not inside the model so called, these come as artifacts in the print when its sliced and laid down.

so sometime you may find one model just does not print or has this annoying bit it shouldnt.

its not the printer but the 3d modeling itself that needs reworking to remove those artifacts.

 

be sure to check the file download for reworked versions where these artifacts have been remodels out in software

so they can be 3d printed. IF your thinking of maybe making you own parts your going to need to learn how to 3d model.

so that means CAD - blender- or the likes, 

[baorevo]

i do modeling on 123d design , very intuitive and loads of tuto's on youtube..................

 

i also have simplify3d package to try out as its supposed to be the bees knees when it comes to slicing and printing packages.

 

i didnt get into 3d printing without doing a lot of homework A LOT

[johninderby]

The quality of 3D print files varies tremendously. There are some excellent ones on Thingverse but many have been made using primitive software and may be functional but are rough as hell.

Sometimes I think I'm banging my head against a brick wall in recommending Simplyfy3D. Pity they don't do a trial verson as the output is in a different league to things like Cura and once you've used it you realise just how primitive the free software is.

John

[baorevo]

As a side note i whent over every single screw that was allready screwed in an medium threadlocked everything on the printer during the build.

 

Print errors are par for the course in 3d printing but we can do the upmost to prevent them but the odd print here and there are going to fail

 

Silly things like power cuts  (ive had 2 while printing but im looking to get an onduler) running out of filement, nozzle clogs and user error are but a few reasons.

[baorevo]

The quality of 3D print files varies tremendously. There are some excellent ones on Thingverse but many have been made using primitive software and may be functional but are rough as hell.

Sometimes I think I'm banging my head against a brick wall in recommending Simplyfy3D. Pity they don't do a trial verson as the output is in a different league to things like Cura and once you've used it you realise just how primitive the free software is.

John

Just got simplify3d so i'll be getting my head around it this eavening , just did a test print for now and found out it needs a G28 command or the extruder just sits on top of the print at the end lol

[Tamiyacowboy]

what they need to do is drag that kossel-rockstok auto leveling stuff from the delta printers onto the reprap prusa's 

that would help a huge amount.

 

also allow for longer rods to be used and rail guides and gt2 belts so the printer could be expanded size wise

and the adjustments then stored into the reprap controller. 

change from mechanical to pure optical end stops.

 

been grabbing a few files and sorting out a 3d print model folder, the halo mask is one for another day

but technical wise and to push the printer via .1 layering and 60-70 on speed the thinking stormtrooper.

other things i looked at and wnat to download are the open frame pink panther woman its technical for printing.

as its a latice like frame. same goes for vases . 

 

as for test print i will run a 1/2 inch cube - an open sides cube - pyramid and open side pyramid 

and a couple of bridge models to see if im better off cooling layers right after laying . this shows printer can

print in thin air across an expanse with the least amount of droop 

[johninderby]

Just got simplify3d so i'll be getting my head around it this eavening , just did a test print for now and found out it needs a G28 command or the extruder just sits on top of the print at the end lol

They have some really good new tutorials. For once it's software that isn't overhyped. Really does the business.

Fortunately my printer uses the standard Replicator 2X commands so only had to fine tune the settings to suit the filament. I use the 3M 2090 masking tape for the bed. Works great and can be changed in seconds.

John

[Thunderwolf]

The quality of 3D print files varies tremendously. There are some excellent ones on Thingverse but many have been made using primitive software and may be functional but are rough as hell.

Sometimes I think I'm banging my head against a brick wall in recommending Simplyfy3D. Pity they don't do a trial verson as the output is in a different league to things like Cura and once you've used it you realise just how primitive the free software is.

John

 

tbf not everyone can afford to cough up

[johninderby]

I give up on this thread

John

[baorevo]

I have a print running that i have used simplify3d to repair slice and code.................. it didnt come out well with cura (threaded parts not threading) so we will see...

Edited September 18, 2015 by baorevo

[Tamiyacowboy]

in both ways john and timber are right. 

 

if you want the best outcomes a paid version of software is going to have that money backing and constant

tweeking or upgrades thrown in.

 

a free version can be as good if not better, but there comes the updates and likes they are far and few between

because the printers are opensource, it means they dont fix the software is redesigned with the added function

or the function is just added via code and the print master is left to work it all out.

 

think of 3d printing at home as building your first quadcopter, infact those brains are the same, the coding is the same alike thing

arduino or Pi, you may find they are stm32 chips or atmega just the same as the quadcopters these days.

i spent a lot of money on my amiga programs the cad ones. because they had this more polished finish.

but these days software is all good 

 

For testing the water and not going to deep, i can say free software will be totally fine its not costing you anything but there is work behind running it

reading forums and watching tutorials , right now you can download unreal engine 4 for free and learn to build games from the floor up, where it was once an expensive purchase.

 

So lets say you tested the water and your now into production, you are better off running a paid software, this lets you be free of the need to download version 4.3.9.01 only to find its flawed

and you now have to revert back to version 3.7.2.08 thats a lotta hassle but paided software its click upgrade or its hotpatched on startup these days.

it takes away those other hours and re-setting up of the bed and print after a software change- upgrade.

Would i run paid for software, hell yes if my wallet allowed for that it would be on the system and running, if it makes my life more easy

and gives the same or even better print quality and adjustments your going to be happy and anyone owning that work happy to.

 

No two quadcopters are dead alike, ie settings wise, they will be tweeked to what the owner likes and feels that is right.

its not like you get a google car and it drives itself, its like you gave a 15yr old hoodygoon a car and said go play.

you know that car is not coming back looking like it did or even running. all printers are differnet. but your all having the rough same base settings.

its now where you start tweeking the flow rate, the speed, how high the layering is etc etc and the best cooling.

somethings can be done software side and other hardware side. 

 

and then its US humans we are all different to, one man can jump from a plane yet another can freeze in fear.

we all have different tastes same with software, some can just use it and others are just brainfried from it.

to many settings can overload an already confused brain, so free software is usually less brain intensive.

where a paid for version is aimed at those with some knowledge and want those extra settings and adjustments.

so at some point near or far in the long run you would in most probility end up paying for software to better yourself

and the end outcome on the printer bed

Edited September 18, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[baorevo]

I Missed a bit out of my last post lol its edited..

 

The simplify print is done and the bolt runs smooth on the threads ............... i will have to try a few other things out to see how it fairs

[Vr5fx]

I Missed a bit out of my last post lol its edited..

 

The simplify print is done and the bolt runs smooth on the threads ............... i will have to try a few other things out to see how it fairs

 

 

What is the nozzle size on our printer? I've been printing with 0.5 (stock setting on Cura) And I wondered if it affects it greatly? O_o

[baorevo]

ahhh the nozzle is 0.4 it will affect slightly the print yes

[Vr5fx]

Well, I best change that lol.

[baorevo]

Ok ive adopted simplify3d   prints with integrated moving parts before had a hard time working due to tolerences not being so good .

that problem is solved and this bearing that didnt work works with simplify3d 

[Vr5fx]

So, I'm looking to setup my printer to do multiple prints, but trying to work out the head size is confusing.

Have you got it setup for this?

All the prints so far are looking really good.

[Tamiyacowboy]

still hunting 

 

found a couple on ebay, a prusa mendal that thinks its an i3 and a makerbot/ unlimaker . 

problem is i cannot buy them, as they are only auction bidding ( makerbot copy sells for 400 buy now but fails to sell at 270 auction)

you can only buy from ebay without an account if its the more overhyped up price on the buy it now.

problem is all those other china models are running ramps 1.4 ( aka the ramps board with an arduino mega )

original polou drivers want and ask for 11.5 amps , the ramp board can only supply at 11 amps,

no cross polarity safe features, the regulators are not heatsinked and get very hot.

the board cannot be run via PC usb and psu power together, you blow out the 5v regulator on the arduino mega board

the 5a and 11amp fuses on the ramps board overheat and burn out the 5v-12 rails, so need replacing with fin type automotive

fuse carriers and blade fuse.

 

now what does all this mean you may think. well those polou drivers wont last long, they tend to die because they to are fake copys

not original polou, the mega board can be fried because of a usb and psu plugged in, and the ramps board can melt down from those regulators blowing and burning up

and also the fuses become so hot they fail and burn out the trace lines on the board to, so your going to be purchasing a whole new ramps - mega and polous (50 quid)..

 

and i still cannot get that aliexpress site to work without throwing up security warnings

[Vr5fx]

I've made so much progress this week, I love it!

I ended up getting stung by customs, got a letter through the post. Ended up costing 32 quid, but I don't care because it's worth every penny.

My prints are coming out great.

Cura printed this without any issues, I'll get a video of it later.

 

I've now started to use SketchUp to design and print my own parts. My first piece went well. and currently printing my second.

My next job is to design a switch holder for the printer. One will be the 12v in for the main board as there is no on-off switch, and another for a LED light that I have on the head, to see progress a little better.

 

[capri-boy]

I've made so much progress this week, I love it!

I ended up getting stung by customs, got a letter through the post. Ended up costing 32 quid, but I don't care because it's worth every penny.

My prints are coming out great.

Cura printed this without any issues, I'll get a video of it later.

 

I've now started to use SketchUp to design and print my own parts. My first piece went well. and currently printing my second.

My next job is to design a switch holder for the printer. One will be the 12v in for the main board as there is no on-off switch, and another for a LED light that I have on the head, to see progress a little better.

 

Great work, good to see some positive results after seeing so many people having trouble.  I'd love one to tinker with but don't see it getting quite enough use to justify it atm.