Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Right, no matter how I set this damn thing up, something is still binding. i have taken the high lift kit off and had it at stock height, it still does it. I turned the high lift kit upside down so now theirs virtually no movement in the shocks at all (not practical, was just to test it) and still, something is binding. I'm almost certain it's the driveshafts at the tranny case. But the angle is barely anything now and it's still doing it. All the driveshafts are lined up correctly, they're all the shorter ones so theirs plenty of travel. It unfortunately isn't something as simple as a tyre catching or anything. Really driving me mad now... Has anyone got any suggestions? I've already done some digging around, and found people suggesting clocking the axles... Problem is, I've no idea how to nobody seems to show how exactly you do it. Can someone explain, or if you have a video or thread showing, kindly post the link Here's my angles as it sits now with high lift kit upside down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReggieC Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Clocking means changing the length of the links to rotate the axle round. So by lengthing the top link and/or shortening the bottom link you should be able to get a nicer angle for the driveshafts! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Now understand what clocking is thanks to AJ Just clocked the rear up a little bit but it's still about the same now I've taken the high lift kit off and it's the stock height. Properly frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReggieC Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Those driveshafts don't look like they would be binding though. Have you tried isolating axles to try diagnose it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lel-95 Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 yeah, take each driveshaft off at the gearbox end and spin them to feel each axle, if you don't find anything then move the motor away from the spur and check the gearbox. when i built mine one of the diff gears was ever so slightly warped and caused a tight spot in the mesh, i set the throttle trim to half and left it running for about half an hour with the wheels off the floor and it wore itself in nicely and has no tight spot anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 As far as I can find theirs no tight spots in the tranny. I've had the axles off and whatnot already to eliminate things but I'm still certain it's some kind of binding. I'll have another look at the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Right, definitely no grinding or tight spots in the tranny itself whatsoever, just double checked. Once it's all out though their does appear to be a slight notching in the front axle. Never noticed it last time I checked as I wheeled it along the floor, this time I'm turning it very slowly just with the tip of my finger and it's stopping and starting etc... Must have just missed it when wheeling it along the floor. Time to strip it down and see if I can locate the issue, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Well I've absolutely no idea, took axles to bits, give them a light rub down in the gears with some sandpaper to make sure their was no excess bits left from casting etc... All fresh grease, still exactly the same :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 i reckon its drive shafts of cv joints on drive shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 I'm not sure now, I was convinced it was, but the axles seem to be a bit grindy. Not sure if that's normal from it being gear on gear, having never had one before, I'm unsure. Either way, I'm sick of trying with it now. And now it's only got three wheels, just snapped one Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Stock gears in axle? And how did you snap a wheel [emoji15] Edited September 1, 2014 by ghazghul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trans4Mation Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Gutted for you bud not having much luck with it . Them landy wheels do break easy my bro smashed two sets at the hex in total over past mth or so think there's a dodgy batch floating about bet that's where all the plastic goes I guess floating the slums of hongkong lol. Only way to stop these wheels breaking at the hex is super gluing the hex to rim but it don't stop the outer bead cracking in streams an trailing not hard bashing too. Hope you get binding sorted check there not a bent shaft near bearing or end shaft pin etc remember they do seam like there binding being fully lock there a lot smoother than a scout if you ever owned a scout you will tell the diffrence in tightness .try bench running it for few mins see if any change . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lel-95 Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Yeah I'd try just running it for about half an hour to bed it in a bit, worked for mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Stock gears in axle? And how did you snap a wheel [emoji15] Stock gears yeah... And threw it. Gutted for you bud not having much luck with it . Them landy wheels do break easy my bro smashed two sets at the hex in total over past mth or so think there's a dodgy batch floating about bet that's where all the plastic goes I guess floating the slums of hongkong lol. Only way to stop these wheels breaking at the hex is super gluing the hex to rim but it don't stop the outer bead cracking in streams an trailing not hard bashing too. Hope you get binding sorted check there not a bent shaft near bearing or end shaft pin etc remember they do seam like there binding being fully lock there a lot smoother than a scout if you ever owned a scout you will tell the diffrence in tightness .try bench running it for few mins see if any change . I've owned a Scout aye, ran 10x smoother than this does though... And it's been run for a good 30 minutes in total over the rocks and things, so I can't imagine it's just a bedding in issue :/ Yeah I'd try just running it for about half an hour to bed it in a bit, worked for mine Already run it for a while though, about 30 minutes in total... Presumed that'd be more than enough to run it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trans4Mation Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Must be bad then cause scouts are a tight old machine even well used compared to all the scx's I've had new & used they push fairly easy but still feel the binding as I say fully locked . Try axle out with c hub removed & no prop on that will give us a better idea if inner issues or outer . If still the same I'd say give it a good few hrs run under load . Half hr not that long really needs min of a pack run then re grease just don't let it beat u or put u off scx there good old rigs Edited September 1, 2014 by Trans4Mation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghazghul Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 I've run scout and axial axle housings and innards, including both in each other (if that makes sense) and hd gears in both too and pretty much any combo has been silky smooth with some fiddling I'd pop the bearings out of the housings and check for any stray plastic around them. It only takes a tiny bit for the pinion to bind and it won't be apparent until the axle is all bolted up and then it goes notchy. Experienced this putting scout pinions into axial housings as there is a shoulder that needs grinding off. Nice work on the wheel [emoji14] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Must be bad then cause scouts are a tight old machine even well used compared to all the scx's I've had new & used they push fairly easy but still feel the binding as I say fully locked . Try axle out with c hub removed & no prop on that will give us a better idea if inner issues or outer . If still the same I'd say give it a good few hrs run under load . Half hr not that long really needs min of a pack run then re grease just don't let it beat u or put u off scx there good old rigs I tested each bit as I was rebuilding the rear axle, weirdly, it went bad as it is now when I put the 4 link truss on... But theirs definitely nothing catching, I'm presuming it's just because it's pulling everything together. Might just put a flat out pack through it tomorrow. I've run scout and axial axle housings and innards, including both in each other (if that makes sense) and hd gears in both too and pretty much any combo has been silky smooth with some fiddling I'd pop the bearings out of the housings and check for any stray plastic around them. It only takes a tiny bit for the pinion to bind and it won't be apparent until the axle is all bolted up and then it goes notchy. Experienced this putting scout pinions into axial housings as there is a shoulder that needs grinding off. Nice work on the wheel [emoji14] Just put fresh bearings and grease in matey, I had a good look round the lot and spotted nothing that looked like it needed removing, plastic wise. Also did the gears as I mentioned above to be on the safe side. Only thing I can think of is buying a fresh pair of axles (if running it doesn't work)... But as my Dad said, it's a brand new kit, I shouldn't have to buy replacement parts. Already had missing parts in the kit which took over two weeks to get replacements. Got to say, not the best first impressions for Axial lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lel-95 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 axial annoy me, i've had great luck with every kit i've had but they do let the odd lemon slip through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Everyone seems to have nothing but great experiences with them lol, until unlucky me orders one Oh well, going to take it out now and run a full pack through it on grass, I can't exactly make it worse and who knows, it might actually bed itself in. Not holding my breath though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have a simple answer to your binding issues. let somebody else build it for you lol. sorry could not resist :-) scx10's are the most simple of trucks to build, i have built loads of them over the years and i must say they have been silky smooth every single time, could it not be your motor its self ?? Im off up to the lakes tomoz oho, i pass your house on my way, if i have time i can always call in and have a looky at it for you, ill have a couple of scalers in the boot if you want a look inc my wraith, anyways if you want me to nip round to look at the scx just let me know, not sure i can 100% yet but if you like i will try and call :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 I'm pretty sure it's not the motor. I've actually just had it out for a pack (disappointing run time, although I was flat out most of the time) and once you get cracking, you don't notice it as much. And thanks for the offer fella but I can't imagine theirs a lot you could do from the outside, unless we where to strip it all down etc... Which I don't expect you to do lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Couple of pictures, sorry for the quality, where taking using a phone. Really nejoyed the puddles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Now then fella, bear with my explanation but here goes....... Take off the front propshaft, at the axle end does the output shaft move in and out a bit more than is "normal"?? If so stick on a shock rubber o ring over the end of the out put and refit the prop shaft this should take almost all slop out and won't bind, it's another little mod to make the scx10 perfect....... Hope it makes sense...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Now then fella, bear with my explanation but here goes....... Take off the front propshaft, at the axle end does the output shaft move in and out a bit more than is "normal"?? If so stick on a shock rubber o ring over the end of the out put and refit the prop shaft this should take almost all slop out and won't bind, it's another little mod to make the scx10 perfect....... Hope it makes sense...... Their is only a tiny amount of movement in both bud. One of the first things I checked lol... I'm pretty sure it's not actually the shafts binding now, after taking everything apart and running the axles, it's as if the axle and crown gears are a little warped and they have a minor tight spot. I've double checked it all and it's all perfectly straight though, so it's a bit of a mystery. Short of buying new axles front and back, I can't see anything else I can either check or mod. So just going to leave it, at the very most it'll ruin an axle which aren't expensive and at least I'll know to just replace both then lol. Unless theirs something else I could check that hasn't already been suggested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lel-95 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 sounds like the same issue i had, mine has went away now and is running smoothly rather than buying full axles why not try buy the heavy duty diff crown and pinion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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