Bigjimknickers Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 My brother has a S50, he's put a Orion xl 1900 hump pack in so far & done 3 tanks on optifuel rtr 25% although he actually ordered race, but msuk sent rtr, so I told him to use it for gently running it in, then switch to optifuel race 25%. I never realized this thing has reverse! Lol! (Clearly in a savage guy, ;-)) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 i started mine with reverse engaged and it nearly took me out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Any more opinions on springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patters1978 Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Hi guys having some engine break in probsFollowing the instructions on page 11 step 16 it's states turn the high speed needle 1/4 counterclockwise until the car stalls at full throttle.I have just been out and I keep turning it but it's not stalling at all I have turned it out to 6 now but still nothing! just gets very boggy to the point it don't move and cuts out with minimum throttleAny help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I'm not to happy with instructions the either mate had a few issues too. I'm gonna leave set the needles back to factory as I've changed to Byron's fuel then leave them there for a couple of tanks. I've broken a couple engines in before and the instruction with those said not to lean out till after brake in which worked fine. It's the first I've heard about leaning during break in. All the vids and guides I've seen say the same. I no this is a much bigger engine than the others but surely the principle should be the same?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 My needle settings are a mile from the manuals, I just kept tipping fuel down its neck then when I was happy the pinch had loosened got the idol sweet then tuned to get good power/smoke.. I've got the manual here in front of me and its actually a real strange way it goes about it... As Morpet told me the day it says use full throttle straight away from cold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95827&page=2 This is a good read, Check the Fuel tank mod on this one Morpet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 When break in run the engine super rich the only issue you can have is getting the temps up. I heat cycle my engines. When tuning and lean out, make sure the engine is not cold and is up to operating temp, before leaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) My needle settings are a mile from the manuals, I just kept tipping fuel down its neck then when I was happy the pinch had loosened got the idol sweet then tuned to get good power/smoke.. I've got the manual here in front of me and its actually a real strange way it goes about it... As Morpet told me the day it says use full throttle straight away from cold! How many turns you reckon you've done? What do mean by tipping fuel down its neck? How can u tell when the pinch has loosened? Sorry about 3 questions in one go Lols wanna get the break done and over with Tomo Thanx for tips qrc but what's heat cycling? Another question I know lol Edited March 20, 2014 by Morpet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Linky for heat cycling,http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=397 Temp is in Fahrenheit. Edited March 20, 2014 by QRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 when I say pour fuel down its neck I just mean run plenty of fuel through it at a good temperature, when I turn over the clutch bell with mine finger it was getting stuck at top dead centre, where as now it'll turn over nicely still stiff but that's what you want.. There's no real logic to tuning nitro engines, I just ensure it idols well.. LSN adjusted so I get good pick up, then just lean the HSN until it bogs when throttle wide open and Richen it a tad.. I'm no good at typing guides a lot of the time, so my bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Excellent guide cheers qrc And Sean uour guides fine understand perfectly Lols. Thanks again guys can't wait to get it sorted Tomo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 I have added some of the links so far to the front page. we could do with: - definitive settings for break in - guide to break in - manuals links (going to check for those now) - more hopups. Nice to see the thread so active! If you want or can think of some changes to the first post let me know. I am happy to act as "curator" to keep it up to date. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 interesting motor mount here for anybody wishing to go brushless http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=Electric+Motor+Mount+-+AE+MGT%2FThunder+Tiger+MTa4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPug Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) interesting motor mount here for anybody wishing to go brushlesshttp://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=Electric+Motor+Mount+-+AE+MGT%2FThunder+Tiger+MTa4 Yeah that's the one I used for my conversion on the front page link. It's fantastic but make sure you red threadlock it together.. mine came loose with blue threadlock. Also the postage is not cheap for this mount... heres a couple of vids to get you interested in converting it Mostly the kid driving in my videos! Here's the initial build of it. Naff vid but it shows the layout well: Here's it is in 'bash' config and running 5S: Edited March 21, 2014 by MrPug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) What did you do to stop it rolling all the time mate? I'm guessing stiffer springs? If so what ones? Also have u lowered it? Edited March 21, 2014 by Morpet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Oh and by the way with anyone having break in issues the manual Is crap I richend the lsn out a good turn or so and since then no prob!! The lsn factory setting are to lean into opinion. Hence my high temps. All fine since running very rich ATM and still clocked it at 36mph can't wait till it's leaned out see what I get. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPug Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 What did you do to stop it rolling all the time mate? I'm guessing stiffer springs? If so what ones? Also have u lowered it? I was running it with a mixture of red and blue spring which gives it somewhere in between red and blue for stiffness. For jumps it is a bit soft, but most of the time I just rag it around rather doing the bigger jumps that are for the videos. The arms are the dyeable RPM ones, which I think does lead to a slightly lower stance, yeah. If yours is riding high and rolling a lot, try moving the shocks to the outer holes on the lower arms and remove the spacer clips from the shocks if you have some fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 interesting motor mount here for anybody wishing to go brushlesshttp://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=Electric+Motor+Mount+-+AE+MGT%2FThunder+Tiger+MTa4 Now your talking... How much was that roller... ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I was running it with a mixture of red and blue spring which gives it somewhere in between red and blue for stiffness. For jumps it is a bit soft, but most of the time I just rag it around rather doing the bigger jumps that are for the videos. The arms are the dyeable RPM ones, which I think does lead to a slightly lower stance, yeah. If yours is riding high and rolling a lot, try moving the shocks to the outer holes on the lower arms and remove the spacer clips from the shocks if you have some fitted. Cool I'll try that I've got red springs from another car so easy try. And a big thanks to Sean and qrc took on board what you both said running sweet now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wraithstorm67 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I want some of them flags for the arse end, anyone know where from Wheelspin models had the flags and the body clips last time I looked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanp Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 hey guys got a bit of a prob after ive ragged it into second gear and release the throttlewhen it comes back into first it sometimes stalls? what needle do i need to touch and in which direction to stop this? i got the 4 needle carb ive got copper spring on each wheel and a stock blue beside it and i jump it so it handles very well on landing but god when its sailing through the air it looks sexy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpet Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 It was doing that to me I richend both lsn 1/4 a turn and worked for me. Like I said before factory settings don't seem right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I have added some of the links so far to the front page. we could do with: - definitive settings for break in - guide to break in - manuals links (going to check for those now) - more hopups. Nice to see the thread so active! If you want or can think of some changes to the first post let me know. I am happy to act as "curator" to keep it up to date. Apparently the LSN break in setting for the .28 is incorrect in the manual, translation error, I will try and remember where I found this. I went with the setting in the Team Associated MGT 4.6 manual, I trust them more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/shared/4.60_.28_manual.pdf MGT 4.6 .28 pro manual, a lot clearer than the TT version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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