.AJ. Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 That's a great idea. I may try to do something similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) Ive just ordered the King Headz centre diff mount and Tekno RC centre CV's all from Amains My stock centres are well past their best and for the sake of a couple extra quids the Tekno parts made sense, i wouldnt really recommend them unless you need to replace worn out parts tho Edited June 6, 2012 by .AJ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 nice mod AJ.....I snapped the antenna on mine, tedious thing it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Anybody know of anywhere in the UK stocking the correct offset wheels for the SCTE? I would like to order up some badlands but struggling to find either the Losi wheels or correct 0 offset. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Nope, i just got some DE Racing Trindad's direct from them in the US Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Damn it, that's another order I've got to wait for! Ordered them from liquid RC in silver along with some blitz hexes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Ive never got round to getting locking hexs, i just stick mine on with red threadlock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzabruv105 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I got the proline renegades and dremelled out the front insides as recommended in the video on prolines website. Was really easy and quick to do. Struggling to find time at the moment but nearly done all the hop ups. Have put 35 in the front shocks and 30 in the rear. Running the diffs on 5,3,3 as a starting point as others have recommended. Can anyone explain the effects of changing the diff oils from say 3 in the rear to say 10 in the rear. Will it prevent or lessen the amount of wheelspin with a thicker weight and will it be that much of a difference. Just trying to understand the basic effects before i start playing with different oil weights etc. Also, does anyone else have problems undoing the screws in the diffs to change the oils. Have rounded off my second arrowmax hex driver trying to undo the screws. Had to dremel the plastic casing open this time to get the parts out. Luckily i had a spare diff case but this is really peeing me off. Any recommendations people? Gonna be hopefully starting the shell soon, just need to find a design idea i am happy (and confident lol) with as its gonna be my first effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Ive never got round to getting locking hexs, i just stick mine on with red threadlock They were like 6 bucks so I thought; why not will order the Badlands today (or Gladiators or Trenchers?!?) so it'll be a race to see who arrives first Although still waiting on the Nanotechs and the motor! I got the proline renegades and dremelled out the front insides as recommended in the video on prolines website. Was really easy and quick to do. Struggling to find time at the moment but nearly done all the hop ups. Have put 35 in the front shocks and 30 in the rear. Running the diffs on 5,3,3 as a starting point as others have recommended. Can anyone explain the effects of changing the diff oils from say 3 in the rear to say 10 in the rear. Will it prevent or lessen the amount of wheelspin with a thicker weight and will it be that much of a difference. Just trying to understand the basic effects before i start playing with different oil weights etc. Also, does anyone else have problems undoing the screws in the diffs to change the oils. Have rounded off my second arrowmax hex driver trying to undo the screws. Had to dremel the plastic casing open this time to get the parts out. Luckily i had a spare diff case but this is really peeing me off. Any recommendations people? Gonna be hopefully starting the shell soon, just need to find a design idea i am happy (and confident lol) with as its gonna be my first effort. I use the Fastrax multi tip tool (in imperial and metric; which is confusing!) and had no problems with mine. They came out nice and easy and went back just as well. Are you undoing them with the opposite rule; i.e. undo the opposites 2-3 turns at a time to bring them up evenly. Are the Renegades the correct off set? Maybe for some other wheels in the future If only Nanda made the blocks in a SC wheel fitment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Badlands ordered from MSUK today Liquid have dispatched my wheels and my motor has arrived However it is missing the bullets (or I didn't realise it didn't come with them!) so I need to pop to SMC tomorrow to pick up some. They only have bird cages but they should do for the time being until I can get some proper ones on. My TS2560Kv motor had the bird cages and they never got hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) Your Toro will pull a hell of a lot more amps tho Edited June 16, 2012 by .AJ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzabruv105 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Been looking at Servo's now. Seen a few recommendations on the ACE DS 1015 and the Savox SC1256. Whicheer one i choose, how do i know which servo arm to get for it. One problem that some people stated they had with the DS1015 was that the splines were not a tight fit but dont quite understand what this actually meant. Can anyone explain this please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 I'm guessing that was between the splines in the servo arm and the splines on the servo itself....... Need a new one for mine as the stock Losi one is a bit pants and seems to be wearing out already!!! The DE rims are blinding tho for the money, not had a chance to run mine since fitting tho, flippin festivals and weather!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Both the Savox and DS1015 are 25t spline, Losi do a nice alloy horn for the 8ight which fits perfect and is pretty cheap, i got mine from JE Spares As for servo ive just got a Savox 1258 secondhand for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 As for the horn not fitting, i never had any problems with the DS1015, but if i remember correct when i had a Savox 1268 it was a real pita to get on or off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldblades7 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 got a DS 1015 for sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzabruv105 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 AJ firstly, why do you rate the DS1015 so highly. That Savox 1258 you have just got hold of has a slightly faster response and roughly the same torque, or have i got that wrong. Stupid question, but i take it the servo horn and servo arm are one in the same just different ways of refering to the same thing. Sorry still learning. What servo arm have you got at the moment then? SO when i looked at Amainhobbies and they have servo horns for Futaba, KO/Air, JR and Hitec, are they on different splines or have i misunderstood it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 The DS1015 was bomb proof, i stripped the gear in the 1268 twice and never had any issues with the DS The 1258 has about 8 kg less torque but is alot quicker, think its about twice as quick Horns and arms are the same thing Yep different number of spline, savox, ace and futaba all use 25t Ive just fitted my 1258 and im off to the track for a few hours practice, ill report back my findings on my return Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Don't think i'll have any overheating problems: I've just taken it out for it's maiden voyage and it doesn't feel as grunty as it did with the 2560Kv on 3s. I have 0 timing set and default punch. I am running my 5200MAh 30c 2s until my 6600MAh Nano-Techs arrive and have it on a 13T pinion. I seem to haev 12, 13, 15,16 and 17T pinions but no 14T! I'm sure I had a 14T somewhere.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Been looking at Servo's now. Seen a few recommendations on the ACE DS 1015 and the Savox SC1256. Whicheer one i choose, how do i know which servo arm to get for it. One problem that some people stated they had with the DS1015 was that the splines were not a tight fit but dont quite understand what this actually meant. Can anyone explain this please. I run a Fastrax HD Aluminium Servo Arm (25T/Futaba/Savox/Ace) that I got from JE Spare and fits perfectly. I did have a CoreRC one that had such soft alloy it stripped real quick. I have turned the DR down to around 52% on my DS1015 as its so quick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzabruv105 Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Please tell me that fan is just you giving out some humour. Have you taken it from a desk top computer, its bloody huge. You wont need a motor, that fan on its side would probably propel the scte. Lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Please tell me that fan is just you giving out some humour. Have you taken it from a desk top computer, its bloody huge. You wont need a motor, that fan on its side would probably propel the scte. Lol. Nope that is real I had one of those small 40mm jobbies on their and I think I could breath more airflow than that thing. It is a 70mm fan of a heatsink I had ages ago. Soldered on a 2 pin connector, plugged into Rx and voila Motor was just warm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 It does seem a bit ott, the only time ive overheated has been when running a 16t and bashing, at the track today i didnt even run my motor fan and the temps were really good, only around 55 on the motor after 10 mins of practice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanio Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Its proactive more than anything. I had all the bits so thought why not I figure the cooler it is the more efficient it'll run in the long run. Do you run a 14T or 15T AJ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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