FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread

[Stormbringer]

you can but it will kill your batteries quicker and is really not advised as they may not be in a safe state for storage

[Gtiracer]

1 hour ago, oscart2005 said:

Hi, I’m new to using lipo batteries and every time I run them when I get home I storage charge them on my charger, do I need to do this every time I use them as it takes ages or can I leave time discharged until my next use?

 

For me if I had completely drained the battery until the esc cuts it off, then yes I would, unless I knew I was going to run it the next day. But for me everytime I've taken it out I haven't even used all of the battery juice up so I know there should be enough in there for the next time. Unless it's winter season to put it away in which case I would anyhow.

 

 

On another note, when I pick my vantage up in the air, only the rear 2 wheels are spinning, anybody know which part is likely to have come disconnected please?

[Ant.p]

1 hour ago, oscart2005 said:

Hi, I’m new to using lipo batteries and every time I run them when I get home I storage charge them on my charger, do I need to do this every time I use them as it takes ages or can I leave time discharged until my next use?

I’ve read through lots of forums on this. Some have done what you suggested, some have left them fully charged. 
My advice, to keep the risks to an absolute minimum, is to to keep lipos (if not using within the following 24 hours) at storage voltage. If left charged or used for any period of time there is a greater chance of the battery puffing and/or fire.

it does take an age to put them through a storage cycle, especially if you have more batteries than chargers, but the risk and potential damage to property is not worth taking. If you can leave the batteries in a fire bag, and if possible in an outbuilding (protected from frost) away from any combustibles, that is best.

I believe if the batteries are properly maintained the risk of fire is quite unlikely, but for me I would rather err on the side of caution.

[Ant.p]

26 minutes ago, Gtiracer said:

 

For me if I had completely drained the battery until the esc cuts it off, then yes I would, unless I knew I was going to run it the next day. But for me everytime I've taken it out I haven't even used all of the battery juice up so I know there should be enough in there for the next time. Unless it's winter season to put it away in which case I would anyhow.

 

 

On another note, when I pick my vantage up in the air, only the rear 2 wheels are spinning, anybody know which part is likely to have come disconnected please?

Is the central drive shaft spinning? If it is, then it’s likely your front diff. I had this problem not so long ago when I had a few teeth snap off in the diff drive gear. Because I drove it too long like this, it also damaged the diff spur. End result was no front wheel drive

[Gtiracer]

 

 

14 minutes ago, Ant.p said:

Is the central drive shaft spinning? If it is, then it’s likely your front diff. I had this problem not so long ago when I had a few teeth snap off in the diff drive gear. Because I drove it too long like this, it also damaged the diff spur. End result was no front wheel drive

 

I've investigated a bit further. And although the rod wasn't spinning, the part of the shaft with thread where it joins to the rod was spinning, it looks like a grub screw that I can't do up tight enough.

 

Can I pack something inside the grub screw that will really grip down on it?, I tried to tighten them and they just round off immediately

Edited April 3, 2021 by Gtiracer

[oscart2005]

21 minutes ago, Ant.p said:

I’ve read through lots of forums on this. Some have done what you suggested, some have left them fully charged. 
My advice, to keep the risks to an absolute minimum, is to to keep lipos (if not using within the following 24 hours) at storage voltage. If left charged or used for any period of time there is a greater chance of the battery puffing and/or fire.

it does take an age to put them through a storage cycle, especially if you have more batteries than chargers, but the risk and potential damage to property is not worth taking. If you can leave the batteries in a fire bag, and if possible in an outbuilding (protected from frost) away from any combustibles, that is best.

I believe if the batteries are properly maintained the risk of fire is quite unlikely, but for me I would rather err on the side of caution.

Okay cheers 👍

[Ant.p]

57 minutes ago, Gtiracer said:

 

 

 

I've investigated a bit further. And although the rod wasn't spinning, the part of the shaft with thread where it joins to the rod was spinning, it looks like a grub screw that I can't do up tight enough.

 

Can I pack something inside the grub screw that will really grip down on it?, I tried to tighten them and they just round off immediately

If the thread has gone, there is little you can do other than replace. The parts you need (assuming this is at the slipper clutch end) are:

 

fast123 m3 grub screw:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72016/

FTX 6273 slipper drive cup:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/115244/

 

I would suggest adding locktite or similar to stop the grub coming lose. It’s very easy to round off the heads in the grub screws, so make sure you have a good fitting hex tool.

Edited April 3, 2021 by Ant.p

[Gtiracer]

17 minutes ago, Ant.p said:

If the thread has gone, there is little you can do other than replace. The parts you need (assuming this is at the slipper clutch end) are:

 

fast123 m3 grub screw:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72016/

FTX 6273 slipper drive cup:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/115244/

 

I would suggest adding locktite or similar to stop the grub coming lose. It’s very easy to round off the heads in the grub screws, so make sure you have a good fitting hex tool.

 

Hi, thanks for the reply, it's just the head Inside the grub screw that's rounded off, I've got it out though but I won't be putting it back in, I've bought some high tensile ones the same size that I'll put in with some blue thread lock. Rather annoying that it's come loose and I've only used the car a total of 3 times however

 

[Stormbringer]

unfortunately if they arnt thread locked thos grub screws have a habit of coming loose your lucky you got 3 runs lol 

[Iain .R]

On 01/04/2021 at 19:43, Stormbringer said:

i think the throttle channel is reversed

if you reverse throttle channel it should work properly 

Well today I went out with my carnage .   And I remembered  as swap the wires around    holy crap batman !!!!!!!!!!!    Ok ok I know the carnage is not a rocket   but when it goes it GOES . It's even better pulling off on grass now   still 1 to 2 sec  delay   but on road or gravel  !!! flocka sporren !! It wheelspins and flips over or wheels off  ... iv been running it the wrong ruddy way     I did the colour match on the wires tho ???? 

But wow is shifts now . And the brake  if I go half flat out the brake it does a bonnet stand or flips over   but bounces on the front and back torro bumpers   lol and if it land on wheels just keep going   ha ha ha iv got a wee nutter on wheels .  

[Ant.p]

22 minutes ago, Iain .R said:

Well today I went out with my carnage .   And I remembered  as swap the wires around    holy crap batman !!!!!!!!!!!    Ok ok I know the carnage is not a rocket   but when it goes it GOES . It's even better pulling off on grass now   still 1 to 2 sec  delay   but on road or gravel  !!! flocka sporren !! It wheelspins and flips over or wheels off  ... iv been running it the wrong ruddy way     I did the colour match on the wires tho ???? 

But wow is shifts now . And the brake  if I go half flat out the brake it does a bonnet stand or flips over   but bounces on the front and back torro bumpers   lol and if it land on wheels just keep going   ha ha ha iv got a wee nutter on wheels .  

Well done for getting it sorted. I know exactly what you’re talking about. They’re mental on 3s, to the point you can hardly control them flat out. Lots of fun!

[Gtiracer]

1 hour ago, Iain .R said:

Well today I went out with my carnage .   And I remembered  as swap the wires around    holy crap batman !!!!!!!!!!!    Ok ok I know the carnage is not a rocket   but when it goes it GOES . It's even better pulling off on grass now   still 1 to 2 sec  delay   but on road or gravel  !!! flocka sporren !! It wheelspins and flips over or wheels off  ... iv been running it the wrong ruddy way     I did the colour match on the wires tho ???? 

But wow is shifts now . And the brake  if I go half flat out the brake it does a bonnet stand or flips over   but bounces on the front and back torro bumpers   lol and if it land on wheels just keep going   ha ha ha iv got a wee nutter on wheels .  

What motor/esc/ pinion/spur combo do you run please?

[Hugoagogo]

Just had my brushless Quanum Vandal out for it's maiden run, got to say for £120 all in, its possibly the best value for money RC I've bought. 

I wonder why more people don't buy the Vandal over the Vantage, seems a no brainer?

[Iain .R]

2 hours ago, Gtiracer said:

What motor/esc/ pinion/spur combo do you run please?

Hi  m8 I have this set up 

3650 3300KV Brushless Motor + 45A ESC Card Combo Car Kit For 1/10 RC Car Truck

 

The esc is rubbish  i got a 60A coming it be here any day now . 

 The Spur is 49T 32dp  an pinion is 9T 32dp . I'm using 2s lipos .

 

It's not 100%right bjtnits getting there  as I now can actually use the car . 

[Ant.p]

1 hour ago, Hugoagogo said:

Just had my brushless Quanum Vandal out for it's maiden run, got to say for £120 all in, its possibly the best value for money RC I've bought. 

I wonder why more people don't buy the Vandal over the Vantage, seems a no brainer?

Where did you get yours from? They’re very similar to the carnage/vantage? Assume they are just as fragile?

I don’t think they’re sold in any of the uk mainstream rc shops. Personally I prefer to shop local if possible to support the high street, failing that, shop in uk based online retailers.

[Redback]

11 hours ago, oscart2005 said:

Hi, I’m new to using lipo batteries and every time I run them when I get home I storage charge them on my charger, do I need to do this every time I use them as it takes ages or can I leave time discharged until my next use?

only if you drive once a month, if you have the car out every other day or so you should be ok keeping them topped up, anything over a week storage charge them :)

[Hugoagogo]

Got it from Hobbyking, I know what you're saying about local and UK based shops and if it was only a couple of pound I wouldn't use HK. But I'm not alone on here, lots buying from China and the US, ultimately I need to look after my finances first. 

 

It's exactly the same car so yes, just as fragile but fortunately no breakages today. 

[oscart2005]

9 hours ago, Redback said:

only if you drive once a month, if you have the car out every other day or so you should be ok keeping them topped up, anything over a week storage charge them 🙂

Okay cheers👍

[Ant.p]

6 hours ago, Hugoagogo said:

Got it from Hobbyking, I know what you're saying about local and UK based shops and if it was only a couple of pound I wouldn't use HK. But I'm not alone on here, lots buying from China and the US, ultimately I need to look after my finances first. 

 

It's exactly the same car so yes, just as fragile but fortunately no breakages today. 

Fair enough. Can you also buy a brushed version for even less? If not, and you plan to make any changes, ie. motor/esc upgrades, you will likely end up spending just as much if starting out with a uk brushed carnage like I did? Maybe the brushless motor that comes with the quanum is decent and doesn’t warrant changing?

Edited April 4, 2021 by Ant.p

[Hugoagogo]

No mate the ARTR they sell only comes brushless, but at £90 it comes in less than the brushed Vantage. 

 

If anyone had their heart set on fitting a specific combo from the off, they do a rolling chassis for £60 which would be the cheapest route.

 

I'm no expert but it ran well yesterday so I'm not planning on doing anything to it (I do have sway bars on back order). 

Edited April 4, 2021 by Hugoagogo

[Gtiracer]

2 hours ago, Hugoagogo said:

No mate the ARTR they sell only comes brushless, but at £90 it comes in less than the brushed Vantage. 

 

If anyone had their heart set on fitting a specific combo from the off, they do a rolling chassis for £60 which would be the cheapest route.

 

I'm no expert but it ran well in my yesterday so I'm not planning on doing anything to it (I do have sway bars on back order). 

That's crazy good value

[Hugoagogo]

I know, I bought the rolling chassis for spares. 😁

[Ant.p]

So today was good and bad. Sun was out and the park was empty. Was great fun bashing around and getting some decent air until... another diff gear shredded. That’s 2 times in 3 runs on 3s. Miraculously the rest of the car is intact, it’s really quite robust now. I have a carbon chassis and top plate on order but not sure when that’s going to arrive, it’s already been weeks. I’m hoping this will ease some of the movement stresses on the gears as the stock chassis flexes all over the place.

does anyone know of a way to cure this? I know that @Jens has recently fitted a hardened diff gear, but haven’t heard if this has made a difference? The spur will be the next problem. Probably too early to tell. There are lots of people suffering with this issue, and a gap in the market. Who do I go to to get some super tough gears made for me (and the rest of the extended FTX family). 
It’s like the car wasn’t designed to go this fast and/or take such abuse 😭😖😅

Edited April 4, 2021 by Ant.p

[Ant.p]

On 12/07/2018 at 12:54, Fly In My Soup said:

 

Larger diameter wheels will increase your final drive ratio and, if they are heavier, will increase your dynamic load.... Which will become an issue when you hard brake....the ESC brake stops the motor/pinion/spur/centre driveshaft and thus the pinion gear attached to the centre d.shaftthat sits in the diff is what stops the actual diff spinning , as it's obviously meshing with the crown gear on the diff.

 

In short;

 

The increased dynamic load of wheels with more mass simply puts more strain on the gears on brake, and then puts increased strain on the gears again on launch....

 

The smaller the wheels the less strain on the gears......until you go to small and have too many rpm at the wheels....

 

Lol, it's a balancing act...

Having read through some older posts, I now realise I’ve done pretty much all I can to destroy the diff gears:

more powerful motor 

Bullet proof spur/pinion

3s lipo 

larger heavier wheels

 

end result, the soft diffs are crumbling. I’m gonna shelve the 3s for a while and stick to the 2s to see if this helps. I hadn’t really considered the breaking is as much to blame as the acceleration. I’m feeling a bit deflated here, as the car is fantastic when it’s working, but it’s failing in the same place now. Just need a few more hardened parts that don’t appear to exist. The most annoying thing is, it’s one of the hardest/most time consuming /messiest parts to replace and it’s not cheap either; £17 for a pair of the diff gears and spurs.

 

just ordered the hobbywing lcd program box. Going to reduce the punch and brake force. This will at least lower the strains on the drivetrain a little 🤞🏻🙏🏻

Edited April 5, 2021 by Ant.p

[Stormbringer]

that can be the problem when you upgrade bits that break to stronger parts it moves the to next weakest bit