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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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2 hours ago, TRX said:

Hi David

 

In all honesty, if your boy has managed to break the chassis/bumper, then I think more speed will only make matters worse.  You mentioned money at the end of your post so I think you will see increased running costs if you put more power/punch behind the trigger.

 

But having said that, I think that Surpass BG combo rocks, I have bought the same from a UK ebay seller and paid twice that price.  Bear in mind that the combo has a Deans connector so your batteries will need a Deans connector too  (think adapters)

 

Good luck

Hi Trx,

 

Have to say I do quite like driving it aswell so if I could get a bit more speed out of it, it wont only be my son that will have fun! Noticed the connector issue, good to know what its called I thought it was a T connector.

 

Iain R

 

I think that mod is brilliant, is that a carnage 1? I think the 2 is slightly different at the front end or I am looking at the pics wrong. I rebuilt it like below and attached a big piece of grey lagging foam behind it, to help take the impact but it snapped at the same point at the bottom where the screws go onto the chassis so I just slapped a load of glue all around it and tightened up the screws, seems to have worked but saying its not driving anywhere at the moment can't really see if it works.

 

This also looks interesting

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brushless-GoolRC-Upgrade-Waterproof-3650-4300KV-Motor-60A-ESC-Combo-Set-X6E5/402289930418?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

and a few reviews mention that GoolRC motors are good and I wouldn't have to wait and wait for it to arrive.  I think I will also need to upgrade the spur and pinion gears into cast metal ones though.  https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-hardened-acetal-ftx-65t-spur-gear-vantage-carnage-banzai-hooligan-bugsta/rc-car-products/432730 and https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-6-pinion-17-teeth/rc-car-products/13756

 

Do many of you change the gearing sizes? Like those blue lower suspension parts in the pics Iain R. Yep I can see I am already falling into the trap of wanting a lot more than I need but if it gets my boys also into building things then why not.

 

No issues with me using the NiMh cells for now is there?

IMG20210125211227.jpg

IMG20210125211241.jpg

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4 hours ago, DavidBH said:

really not sure, I found the banggood site with the HSP mentioned by googling carnage 2 aluminium chassis. It looks very close and also like the idea of no hole below the motor as that is how the stone went into the present fried one.

 

The more I read the more I am getting confused especially about the motors! Are you brushed or brushless, have you done any upgrading? Will have to have a think about the upper part thought maybe with the lower part being in metal that it would be completely solid but possibly not as the chassis will be quite thin I suppose. 

The plates really look similar.

And when I look all the HSP 94111 pictures, the internal layouts are all the same as the Carnage.

Might be worth a try.

My son has a Brugsta Brushless (practically the same).

So far I upgraded the wheels after the old ones disintegrating after too many puddle runs.

And I put some effort into waterproofing the car.

 

 

 

Edited by Jens
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27 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

I think I will also need to upgrade the spur and pinion gears into cast metal ones though

There is a user here in the forum, offering hardened steel pinion and spur:

@daveyboi73 sells them on ebay.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Carnage-Bugsta-32DP-Hard-Steel-Spur-kit/264098799917?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

After rounding 2 spurs I went for his option and have my peace since then.

They literally eat stones. I always see the dust around the gears.

 

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13 minutes ago, Iain .R said:

Hi I know from a few vids on the tube that the carnage an it siblings  have a design fault 

 The spur gear is open to crap/wee stones getting in to the wheels/cogs . So last night I came up with a wee idea of blocking these . One was the spur gear cover 

I fixed a small rubber cover  (small bit of rubber from sindy dolls saddle) to the open section cut a hole in the rubber  then cut a line up the centre to the hole then fixed the rubber   to spur gear cover using very small screws   (watch screws)  

Then the front part where the motor braket is the hole at  the  bottom  so I got a small L shape plastic then cut a small bit rubber to fit the one side of the L shape then used liquid electrical tape to make a small square blob  once it was almost set pushed it in to the hole in the motorbraket  then fixed it in place with some liquid tape and a screw. So now my super gear is all sealed up and still able to take apart to chage spurs . 

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That's an excellent idea to a very well known problem.

I used hot glue layer by layer.

I also read about a 3D printed solution for the motor bracket.

Others just use tape.

It would be interesting to design 2 3D models to cover the front and the back and put it on thingiverse.

 

For the latest models it seems that the gap in the motor bracket has been closed by the factory.

It might be worth to get the new motor bracket as a spare part.

 

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18 minutes ago, Jens said:

That's an excellent idea to a very well known problem.

I used hot glue layer by layer.

I also read about a 3D printed solution for the motor bracket.

Others just use tape.

It would be interesting to design 2 3D models to cover the front and the back and put it on thingiverse.

 

For the latest models it seems that the gap in the motor bracket has been closed by the factory.

It might be worth to get the new motor bracket as a spare part.

 

I am waiting on a part to fill the motor bracket  from a member ... but for now this will do . 

I was going to hot glue it but as the chassis is made of oily plastic theres not many glues that stick . There are ones I use which is for waste pipes  say under your sink  as they are oily plastic to stop crap sticking to it . The glue melts the plastic more than glue it .  Well I'd say 70 melt  30 glue  

But as the car going to be going over bumps and so on didnt think it hold .  Why put in a wee screw ..

 

If they changed the design might be worth buying it   what about the spur gear cover any change to that . As there is a massive gap compared to the shaft .   

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I just had look and yes its filled only on one side    but still its blocked off   the ! spur gear cover   ! on the other hand it's still the same .  

 

It's very easy to block up with like a grommet idea.  Or two  peice  half circles closing the gap.   

But I'm happy with mine  lol 

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I did some waterproofing on my new Brushless Carnage.

 

Filled all the holes in the "waterproof" ESC with liquid electrical tape.

And fitted a waterproof receiver box.

IMG-5105.jpg

 

Next car ready for puddle bashing...

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2 hours ago, Iain .R said:

I was going to hot glue it but as the chassis is made of oily plastic theres not many glues that stick

I just used the hot glue from my cheapest glue gun.

So far it is holding well.

But I really cleaned the bottom plate before.

Edited by Jens
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23 hours ago, Jens said:

Yes.

Initially my son Bugsta Brushless was running on the NiMh from his old FTX Mauler.

Lipos came only in as reward for good homeschooling.

 

 

 

I would say that even though brushless is much more powerful, I found an advantage with the stock brushless ESC, that is useful for inexperienced drivers.

I got a programming card for the stock ETronix ESC and first programmed the ESC for 50% max forward power and 20% max reverse.

That gave my kiddo good time to get used to the speed.

Then slowly move to 100% forward power. --> Each time he completed extra school work I gave him an extra 10% for the weekend. It had a wonderful educational effect.

Only last week I added 100% reverse power.

 

When it comes to brushless upgrade.

It is all about personal taste.

But for me the number 1 criteria is waterproof.

( They are not really, but at least they take heavy splashes ).

And don't get a brushless ESC with external capacitors connected via cable. Water killed those capacitors and the ESC was gone.

 

A Hobbywing Max10 SCT Combo is my current choice for upgrading my recently acquired Carnage with a Ford F-100 shell.

ETronix also offers some waterproof brushless ESC/Motor combos.

I would never buy them from a seller outside the UK. For those items I want proper warranty and somebody to kick if it doesn't work.

 

I believe that should be rather discussed outside this thread to get more advice from other users.

 

Absolutely brilliant way to motivate your lad 👍👍👍

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1 hour ago, Jens said:

I did some waterproofing on my new Brushless Carnage.

 

Filled all the holes in the "waterproof" ESC with liquid electrical tape.

And fitted a waterproof receiver box.

IMG-5105.jpg

 

Next car ready for puddle bashing...

I like that box. Is that one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-ESC-Receiver-Case-Box-for-1-10-RC-Car-Short-course-Huanqi-727-Slash-/265014822181 we did get snow into the shell the other day just hoping that we didn't fry the receiver! Oh well the engine is in route anyway from eBay here Friday so will build it up over the weekend with a lot of extra waterproofing after reading all your comments.

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42 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

I like that box. Is that one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-ESC-Receiver-Case-Box-for-1-10-RC-Car-Short-course-Huanqi-727-Slash-/265014822181 we did get snow into the shell the other day just hoping that we didn't fry the receiver! Oh well the engine is in route anyway from eBay here Friday so will build it up over the weekend with a lot of extra waterproofing after reading all your comments.

Yes. That is the one. I bought a whole lot for all my non-Traxxas cars.

 

I did some additional work to waterproof it in a similar fashion as Traxxas does:

1. Silicone Grease on the O-Ring. Helps to repel water.

2. Small pieces of closed cell foam above and below where the cables come out. It sqeezes between the cables letting less water come through from upward splashes.

3. And put a bit of silicone grease between the foams where the cables are . That repels the last bit of water.

 

With such a fix I can go diving. No water will come in.

 

One more thing for waterproofing:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liquid-Insulation-Electrical-Tape-30ml-Tube-Paste-Waterproof-Anti-UV-Fast-Dry/373357518921?hash=item56edd7a049:g:UUUAAOSwHHBfucW6

Liquid electrical tape. It is like liquid rubber but has an electrical insulation effect up to 1000V.

Flows easily between gaps. Use a brush to spread it around.

I filled every hole in the ESC with that and all the exposed electrical plugs.

It is basically the cheap Chinese way to insulate their cheap circuit boards.

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1 hour ago, Fat Freddy said:

Absolutely brilliant way to motivate your lad 👍👍👍

Problem for me now is that he dreams of a Traxxas X-Maxx.

The Bugsta is getting him too slow. He can never catch me with my Rustler.

And he is working towards it with school, eating veggies, 5 star attitude and more.

What do I do now???

 

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4 hours ago, Jens said:

Problem for me now is that he dreams of a Traxxas X-Maxx.

The Bugsta is getting him too slow. He can never catch me with my Rustler.

And he is working towards it with school, eating veggies, 5 star attitude and more.

What do I do now???

 

Xmax for yourself and give him the rustler :P If they can prove they can drive a fast truck they can have a fast truck, so see how he goes with the rustler and go from there :)

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3 hours ago, Redback said:

Xmax for yourself and give him the rustler :P If they can prove they can drive a fast truck they can have a fast truck, so see how he goes with the rustler and go from there :)

That he has already proven. Handling my Rustler as good as me. He is very thoughtful with the throttle.

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On 25/01/2021 at 22:02, Jens said:

There is a user here in the forum, offering hardened steel pinion and spur:

@daveyboi73 sells them on ebay.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Carnage-Bugsta-32DP-Hard-Steel-Spur-kit/264098799917?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

After rounding 2 spurs I went for his option and have my peace since then.

They literally eat stones. I always see the dust around the gears.

 

That kit looks like proper solid.  Do you apply grease to it? Molly?

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my, I mean my sons, new toy arrived today! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brushless-GoolRC-Upgrade-Waterproof-3650-4300KV-Motor-60A-ESC-Combo-Set-X6E5/402289930418?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 looks very well built and quick delivery. Quick question where does the fan plug in? Does it go into Batt on the Etronix Pulse ET1152 in this picture https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-pulse-fhss-receiver-2-4ghz-for-et1106-et1122/rc-car-products/436982 

 

Also I bought a heat sink with fan for the new motor to keep everything nice and cool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7014-Motor-Heat-Sink-w-Cooling-Fan-for-1-10-HSP-RC-Car-540-550-3650-Motor-X8R7/402328012105?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 but it also has the same connection. Do I need a splitter for the connection into the etronix or should I connect it some different way?

 

Definitely a learning experience all of this and thanks as always for all the help.

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5 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

my, I mean my sons, new toy arrived today! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brushless-GoolRC-Upgrade-Waterproof-3650-4300KV-Motor-60A-ESC-Combo-Set-X6E5/402289930418?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 looks very well built and quick delivery. Quick question where does the fan plug in? Does it go into Batt on the Etronix Pulse ET1152 in this picture https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-pulse-fhss-receiver-2-4ghz-for-et1106-et1122/rc-car-products/436982 

 

Also I bought a heat sink with fan for the new motor to keep everything nice and cool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7014-Motor-Heat-Sink-w-Cooling-Fan-for-1-10-HSP-RC-Car-540-550-3650-Motor-X8R7/402328012105?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 but it also has the same connection. Do I need a splitter for the connection into the etronix or should I connect it some different way?

 

Definitely a learning experience all of this and thanks as always for all the help.

Hi m8  I would say buy a Y spliter  as I was told on here and they are fantastic.  .  And !!  Sons   new toy  !!  Yea we belive you   lol   

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9 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

my, I mean my sons, new toy arrived today! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brushless-GoolRC-Upgrade-Waterproof-3650-4300KV-Motor-60A-ESC-Combo-Set-X6E5/402289930418?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 looks very well built and quick delivery. Quick question where does the fan plug in? Does it go into Batt on the Etronix Pulse ET1152 in this picture https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-pulse-fhss-receiver-2-4ghz-for-et1106-et1122/rc-car-products/436982 

 

Also I bought a heat sink with fan for the new motor to keep everything nice and cool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7014-Motor-Heat-Sink-w-Cooling-Fan-for-1-10-HSP-RC-Car-540-550-3650-Motor-X8R7/402328012105?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 but it also has the same connection. Do I need a splitter for the connection into the etronix or should I connect it some different way?

 

Definitely a learning experience all of this and thanks as always for all the help.

If the fan came with the ESC, then there should be a connection.

And the fan for the motor can be plugged into the receiver.

I use Channel 3. On the receiver you can see where +/- is. Very small print next to Channel 1.

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The ESC has a fan on top with a futaba connector that I think I can connect into the BATT on the receiver. So I can connect the fan for the motor into channel 3? will that give it power all the time to run then? Actually now I come to think of it that makes sense, there are 3 leads so its a +ve a -ve and then the final cable takes the signal I presume to what ever device is connected?

 

Was thinking I may need one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Y-Splitter-Servo-Lead-Compatible-With-Futaba-Plug-1-Piece-New/303746904259?hash=item46b8b9f0c3:g:XmIAAOSwTcdfnJYZ but with 2 spaces left on the receiver I suppose I can just use them instead.

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