Iain .R Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 5 hours ago, vimto2000 said: If anyone is after some 2S batteries...these are pretty cheap!! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08Q7K3Q79/ Hi cheers I'm looking for some more lipos . But I have 100C ones will 70C make much difference ??? As from what I see its 100c power every time you pull the trigger that right ??? Is 70c still ok . As I'm not to interested in high speed pull offs but if it's less power behind it might cog ??? Any one know cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 if your esc and motor are capable of using the 100c of the battery then you will notice a bit of a drop of going to 70c but if your esc motor can only draw up to 60-70c anyway then you prob wont notice any drop off using 70c battery as far as i understand it 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 In real terms for a bit of bashing I don’t think you’ll notice, if anything a 70c might last you a smidge longer than a 100c as it won’t dump it’s amps so readily 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 a decent 50c battery is capable of handling some 8s motors. I don't think even 70c is necessary on the likes of a carnage! 🚀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 It's the hobbywing motor and esc so what.about that one but saying that I think the HE motor is nuts on a carnage anyway . So might Easyer to drive handle lol I dont really do speed .(as speed drains the battery quicker ) I rather go at a steady speed and last longer (I'm still on about hobbywing/battery now lol ).. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gari_Ferret Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 (edited) Hey, haven't posted here since I got the brushed Vantage, have since gotten the brushless one and used the brushed one for parts, for some reason the brushless one seems to be a bit tougher from factory? Have still broken parts including a steering, several wings, suspension holders which I've replaced with aluminium and bent driveshafts, I've also stripped a few spur gears, including a RW 49T hardened acetal paired with a RW 24T hardened pinion, both 32DP, put the stock gears back in but the stock spur didn't like 3S power and it stripped, currently waiting for a RW 32DP 49T hardened steel spur to go with the 24T pinion I already have but does anyone know what the highest gearing the motor and ESC can take is? As I have noticed there's still room to fit bigger pinions but if I need to get a new motor to gear it higher, then that's fine. P.S I just remembered, does anyone know if there's 2.2 size belted buggy tyres available? I'm sure not having the tyres balloon out would greatly help with traction and handling. Edited July 13, 2021 by Gari_Ferret Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 2 hours ago, Gari_Ferret said: I've also stripped a few spur gears, including a RW 49T hardened acetal paired with a RW 24T hardened pinion, both 32DP, put the stock gears back in but the stock spur didn't like 3S power and it stripped, currently waiting for a RW 32DP 49T hardened steel spur to go with the 24T pinion I already have but does anyone know what the highest gearing the motor and ESC can take is? As I have noticed there's still room to fit bigger pinions but if I need to get a new motor to gear it higher, then that's fine. P.S I just remembered, does anyone know if there's 2.2 size belted buggy tyres available? I'm sure not having the tyres balloon out would greatly help with traction and handling. Stripped an RW 32DP?! have you meshed correctly? Ive used my carnage with 3s quite a bit and the spur and pinion still look new. Its the diffs I have trouble with as they now appear to be the weakest link. the best way to find out if you can gear up is to test the temperature of the electronics. If you can't keep your hand on the motor you're pushing it too hard. if all is only warm after a good thrashing, gear it up if you're after a bit more speed! are you running on road (speed runs) or all terrain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gari_Ferret Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 5 hours ago, Ant.p said: Stripped an RW 32DP?! have you meshed correctly? Ive used my carnage with 3s quite a bit and the spur and pinion still look new. Its the diffs I have trouble with as they now appear to be the weakest link. the best way to find out if you can gear up is to test the temperature of the electronics. If you can't keep your hand on the motor you're pushing it too hard. if all is only warm after a good thrashing, gear it up if you're after a bit more speed! are you running on road (speed runs) or all terrain? The RW got stripped possibly because I forgot to tighten the motor mount and it slipped, I can't remember, as for where I'm running it, it's a bit of both speed runs and all terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Guitar Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 23 hours ago, Ant.p said: Stripped an RW 32DP?! have you meshed correctly? Ive used my carnage with 3s quite a bit and the spur and pinion still look new. Its the diffs I have trouble with as they now appear to be the weakest link. the best way to find out if you can gear up is to test the temperature of the electronics. If you can't keep your hand on the motor you're pushing it too hard. if all is only warm after a good thrashing, gear it up if you're after a bit more speed! are you running on road (speed runs) or all terrain? Im a newbie ( this is my second post!). I've heard the diffs become the weakest, are there any hardened steel replacements? I replaced my spur after full throttle jump landings and bought an acetal hardended ( I mistakenly thought it was hardended steel) so that might need re-replacing due to my bad driving Also, meant to ask - I replaced the top plate for carbon but the this leaves the spur and pinion open? any solution for this? I trimmed back the original plastic bits and re-added but its a bit clumsey... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Guitar Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 On 06/07/2021 at 18:56, Ant.p said: Boom! Ordered the carbon chassis and top plate about 3 months ago for the carnage... Finally arrived today!! no more flexing everywhere and most parts upgraded to either alloy or carbon. This thing looks the part now. Sweet - I've done the same. The grub screws that are used on the suspension arms that limit travel - are they needed? Not sure how to set mine. Also looks like I get a bit of toe in on the rear which I can't seem to adjust out? I had to fiddle with the front ( which has more adjustment) to run true... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 2 hours ago, V8Guitar said: Im a newbie ( this is my second post!). I've heard the diffs become the weakest, are there any hardened steel replacements? I replaced my spur after full throttle jump landings and bought an acetal hardended ( I mistakenly thought it was hardended steel) so that might need re-replacing due to my bad driving Also, meant to ask - I replaced the top plate for carbon but the this leaves the spur and pinion open? any solution for this? I trimmed back the original plastic bits and re-added but its a bit clumsey... Not any hardened replacement for the diffs unfortunately. This has previously been discussed on the forum and some have even looked into getting them fabricated, but it’s not happened yet… I now have the steel spur from eBay (currently out of stock): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Vantage-Hooligan-Banzai-32DP-Hard-Steel-Spur-kit-/264098803251?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 these eat stones as they’re so tough so no need to cover them up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 1 hour ago, V8Guitar said: Sweet - I've done the same. The grub screws that are used on the suspension arms that limit travel - are they needed? Not sure how to set mine. Also looks like I get a bit of toe in on the rear which I can't seem to adjust out? I had to fiddle with the front ( which has more adjustment) to run true... I’ve set the grubs so that maximum travel can happen. If you lift the chassis and fully unwind the grub, then slowly wind in just until you see the suspension arm start to move. toe in on the rear is common in loads of models. I assume it helps with the handling somehow, but not sure about the science behind it. Looks odd I know, but it’s meant to be! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Iain .R Posted July 14, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted July 14, 2021 I was out having a bash tonight and across the carpark I could see this guy walking towards the car park crossing the road carrying what looked like a RC car so as got closer yea it was a kid and he had a nitro carnage so I stopped mine and said you going to play on the grass then (just to start conversation ) so we got chatting and hes not being in to RC long few weeks. So I said about coming on here . So he went to start his car ............ wouldn't start.. he said he for got to charge the glow stick . So I said how long that take as I'm here for another hour go home charge it come back . 12 hrs .........WHAT ........ So we just chatted and compared cars brushed/brusless vs nitro . I told him he needed to do his shocks .his tyre inserts where non existing. .so pop on here we help . . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strugglecuddle7 Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Turned the goal post challenge into a race!Twas fun and put my slash into a very deep puddle in the quarry that wasn't there the other day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Guitar Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Yesterday managed to lose the retaining screw for the pin that holds the hub in place on my aluminum replaced suspension arms ( yes I know, thread loc). They are not the same as the plastic ones as they are self tappers not screws. Any ideas where I can get these and a box of spare screws for when I lose any screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 9 minutes ago, V8Guitar said: Yesterday managed to lose the retaining screw for the pin that holds the hub in place on my aluminum replaced suspension arms ( yes I know, thread loc). They are not the same as the plastic ones as they are self tappers not screws. Any ideas where I can get these and a box of spare screws for when I lose any screws? The screws are all m3 thread on the carnage. You can get selection boxes on eBay, Amazon etc. If you want to be posh go for stainless. not sure exactly which screw you’ve lost from the description? Can you stick a photo up please? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Guitar Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 At the bottom where the suspension arm meets the hub holder, they are linked by a pin. The pin is held in place by a screw which isn;t an M3 ( I don't think)., possibly an M2? So close to the middle of the pic, hole to the right of the pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 (edited) 37 minutes ago, V8Guitar said: At the bottom where the suspension arm meets the hub holder, they are linked by a pin. The pin is held in place by a screw which isn;t an M3 ( I don't think)., possibly an M2? So close to the middle of the pic, hole to the right of the pin. Not sure of the size but heres the part if it helps, says 3 x 4 so might be m3 sure its more like 2.5 tho have to check Edited July 16, 2021 by Redback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 45 minutes ago, Redback said: Not sure of the size but heres the part if it helps, says 3 x 4 so might be m3 sure its more like 2.5 tho have to check Are they not a machine screw in the alloy arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Guitar Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 48 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Are they not a machine screw in the alloy arms? Yep, thats my point. Those parts for for the original plastic ones. I have these and they don't fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 5 hours ago, V8Guitar said: At the bottom where the suspension arm meets the hub holder, they are linked by a pin. The pin is held in place by a screw which isn;t an M3 ( I don't think)., possibly an M2? So close to the middle of the pic, hole to the right of the pin. Hi I swapped my carnage to alloys and the screws I used was the ones that was in the plastic arms . Same with the back of the car fitting the zorro bumper I bought a bumper kit and they are the same size as the ones you have in the photos . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gari_Ferret Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 Are the chassis for the carnage and vantage exactly the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 6 hours ago, Gari_Ferret said: Are the chassis for the carnage and vantage exactly the same? I thought they were, but having looked on the Modelsport website it says that they’re not cross compatible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 Carnage is 15mm longer wheelbase 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Guitar Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 17 hours ago, Iain .R said: Hi I swapped my carnage to alloys and the screws I used was the ones that was in the plastic arms . Same with the back of the car fitting the zorro bumper I bought a bumper kit and they are the same size as the ones you have in the photos . All of the screws are the same except the pin retainers which are different. If you used the same ones you will have knackered the threads. See picture, plastic ones on the left, ones supplied with he arms on the right.cant elite they are not listed somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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