V8Guitar

Just watched this, I have no idea why you are experiencing breakages 🙂 You are not letting up ha! Good one!!

Perfect! Thank you and yes I have bought new pads 🙂

Conscious that I'm not really aware of what the slipper gaskets are for, how do you tension up the rear end? Just to explain, I'm changing the spur gear to a hardened steel one and you have to disassemble the slipper assembly. Last time I did it, I just tightened up the nut onto the slipper spring with no idea on what tension I needed. Just recently I think I'm getting slip suggesting its not tight enough? Can some one explain pls?

Me too...got the carbon top and bottom plate and changed everything for aluminium where I can. Just looking to change the servo saver next. Im enjoying the playing with bits...

I had a similar issue when I changed batteries on my brushless....steerng worked but no forward and backwards. Not sure if its the same but try re-calibrating the throttle range (page 6) https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/FTX5543/files/Carnage Brushless Manual.pdf

So, screws arrived and yes they are 2.5 mm...for reference for anyone.

They are smaller so I think 2.5 or 2 mm. Ordered both so I'll let you all know...surprised its not listed anywhere or come up before but I suppose others are sensible and use thread loc 🙂

All of the screws are the same except the pin retainers which are different. If you used the same ones you will have knackered the threads. See picture, plastic ones on the left, ones supplied with he arms on the right.cant elite they are not listed somewhere.

Yep, thats my point. Those parts for for the original plastic ones. I have these and they don't fit.

At the bottom where the suspension arm meets the hub holder, they are linked by a pin. The pin is held in place by a screw which isn;t an M3 ( I don't think)., possibly an M2? So close to the middle of the pic, hole to the right of the pin.

Yesterday managed to lose the retaining screw for the pin that holds the hub in place on my aluminum replaced suspension arms ( yes I know, thread loc). They are not the same as the plastic ones as they are self tappers not screws. Any ideas where I can get these and a box of spare screws for when I lose any screws?

Cool, thats what I was thinking really. Does the 50C make any difference? I bought a Core 4000 Mah 30/60c .

Sweet - I've done the same. The grub screws that are used on the suspension arms that limit travel - are they needed? Not sure how to set mine. Also looks like I get a bit of toe in on the rear which I can't seem to adjust out? I had to fiddle with the front ( which has more adjustment) to run true...

Im a newbie ( this is my second post!). I've heard the diffs become the weakest, are there any hardened steel replacements? I replaced my spur after full throttle jump landings and bought an acetal hardended ( I mistakenly thought it was hardended steel) so that might need re-replacing due to my bad driving Also, meant to ask - I replaced the top plate for carbon but the this leaves the spur and pinion open? any solution for this? I trimmed back the original plastic bits and re-added but its a bit clumsey...

Apart from a Tamiya Skyline I bought maybe 15 year ago, I've never run an RC car before. After a bit of research and not wanting to spend much, I bought an FTX Carnage Brushless.....and loving it! I like the fiddling almost as much as running it and its great fun. everyone I've shown has been impressed with its performance. I have also found its an excellent dog walking tool.....my dog just loves chasing it. Already replaced most parts with Aluminium/carbon, as a result of: 1) looking cool 2) Hitting a tree 3) Full throttle landings So I'm actually enjoying my mistakes. Already picked up some info from the Forum prior to joining, but keen to learn about more hop ups. Might want to go down the 3s Lipo route but also realise the fragility of the car and my driving limits - its plenty fast enough. Oh, and I have some great places to run it - light gravel open areas....fab!