FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread

[Redback]

5 hours ago, Iain .R said:

Try these ..

 

 FTX Body Post Aluminium - Carnage FTX6355

 

FTX Aluminium Upgraded Front Shock Tower  FTX6200 For Carnage, Bugsta, Outlaw

 

 

These are alloy so I guess these are the upgrades.  

I would not waste a peny on alloy body posts, they will bend and snap, stick with the 1£ plastic ones that bend back and can take a hit.
Same for the shock tower as all the forces from the body post and body go into the tower they should flex. Just my 2c

[Iain .R]

Hi all  I'm on the look out for any carnage /outlaw /vantage parts . 

 

Any parts you have spare that you dont use plz can I have them . As iv got anfew bits spare and I'm trying to make another carnage .  

As.i have  bolted a old piece  alloy to the broken carnage chassis and found some parts i haven got spare as iv swapped the plastic ones for alloy.   

So dont matter what it is 

 

if it fits on a carnage outlaw vantage  I possibly have a use for it . I'm happy to buy / pay shipping . Cheers . 

 

Thanks 

[zlab]

23 hours ago, Jens said:

Holy mackerel, where did you fly into???

But your sway bar is still intact... 

eh, just some concrete at full speed 😄

 

well i don't remember when was the last rebuild and i have some spare time now as i am positive to covid...

after disassembly i found out that both diffs have damaged gears...again 😐

luckily i have most of the spares on stock and some on the way

[Jens]

That looks like a very nicely sorted start of the rebuild.

At least you won't be bored in your quarantine.

( Hoping that you are going well through your Covid infection )

[Iain .R]

Calling  all you guys who stripped the carnage diffs down . 

In the standard brushed diffs are the cogs plastic or metal . As iv seen some on upgrades list and there metal  . So if got a bog standard carnage  and I was wondering if my cogs inside the diffs are metal or plastic..   Cheers.  

[azibux1]

Absolutely shredded my spur gear in less than 5 outings with my brushless upgraded Carnage... Doh! 

 

Anyone able to please recommend a steel spur gear suitable for the Carnage? Maybe one that will allow for a slightly higher top speed? I already have 17t steel pinion waiting to be installed. 

 

Cheers! 

[Redback]

Were you using the brass pinion?
Cant go wrong with the rw pinions and spurs, was yours stock?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-hardened-acetal-ftx-49t-32dp-spur-gear-vantage-carnage-banzai-hooligan-bugsta/rc-car-products/436586

Check your dp matches the pinion, they also do a another.

Edited February 18, 2021 by Redback

[azibux1]

Thanks! 

 

I was using stock 17t pinion with a 3900kv brushless setup 

 

With that 49t spur, instead of the stock 65t - I should expect a higher top speed if I stick with 17t pinion - right? 

 

The link recommends 13t for Carnage but I'm unsure why... As it comes with 17t stock 

 

What are your thoughts please? 

[Jens]

7 hours ago, azibux1 said:

Absolutely shredded my spur gear in less than 5 outings with my brushless upgraded Carnage... Doh! 

 

Anyone able to please recommend a steel spur gear suitable for the Carnage? Maybe one that will allow for a slightly higher top speed? I already have 17t steel pinion waiting to be installed. 

 

Cheers! 

I use these from Dave for all 3 Carnages/Bugsta:

With 16T: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Vantage-Hooligan-Banzai-32DP-Hard-Steel-Spur-kit/264098803251?hash=item3d7d83ee33:g:20QAAOSw0TBcO6uh

With 12T: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Carnage-Bugsta-32DP-Hard-Steel-Spur-kit/264098799917?hash=item3d7d83e12d:g:cJwAAOSwprtcO63s

I stick to 32DP teeth to stay "common".

 

They are hardened steel and literally eat incoming stones.

Also there are some measures needed to prevent stones coming into the gears in the first place.

 

I think 17T comes with Brushed setup and 12T with Brushless.

 

I just did a brushless upgrade with a 4000KV motor to my Carnage 2.0 and reduced the pinion from 17T to 10T, having a 12T just in case.

( Used a suitable hardened steel Team Corally pinion )

17T was way too fast and unstable at high speed for the light weight Carnage.

 

[azibux1]

Thanks for the detailed reply @Jens

 

I will get that 12T one from Dave then if that's what you have and it works well

 

I couldn't figure out with a quick look how to remove the spur itself, I'm used to the outlaw which was simpler due to the rear CVD and lack of slipper clutch. Is there a quick how-to anywhere? Anything to be wary of?

 

I'm not sure what happened to mine to be honest, can't have been stones as my Carnage 2.0 with stock chassis has the gears sealed/protected from stones... my alu chassis on the way though will need some mods to protect from stones...

 

Cheers!

[Jens]

1 hour ago, azibux1 said:

Thanks for the detailed reply @Jens

 

I will get that 12T one from Dave then if that's what you have and it works well

 

I couldn't figure out with a quick look how to remove the spur itself, I'm used to the outlaw which was simpler due to the rear CVD and lack of slipper clutch. Is there a quick how-to anywhere? Anything to be wary of?

 

I'm not sure what happened to mine to be honest, can't have been stones as my Carnage 2.0 with stock chassis has the gears sealed/protected from stones... my alu chassis on the way though will need some mods to protect from stones...

 

Cheers!

Remove the covers above the spur & pinion.

Remove the rear axle. 4 screws below.

Then you can start removing the parts from the center drive shaft until you reach the spur & slipper clutch.

 

Only the real latest Carnage 2.0 is somewhat well protected (with latest chassis plate).

But stones can still come in from the opening below (around the motor).

[azibux1]

13 minutes ago, Jens said:

Remove the covers above the spur & pinion.

Remove the rear axle. 4 screws below.

Then you can start removing the parts from the center drive shaft until you reach the spur & slipper clutch.

 

Only the real latest Carnage 2.0 is somewhat well protected (with latest chassis plate).

But stones can still come in from the opening below (around the motor).

Cheers! 

 

Is it possible loose meshing could cause this? Yesterday was using the car on the road, usually off road, and at high speed / full throttle there was a strange noise which now I think might have been the pinion slipping on the spur? 

 

I meshed "by eye" and left a tiny bit of play as I thought that's correct but now thinking maybe it was too loose and was slipping at high speed maybe 

 

Hmm

 

Just trying to avoid damaging the new parts lol

[Jens]

There can be numerous causes:

- stones

- pinion slipped

- wrong mesh

I had stones before and recently a slipped pinion.

 

That's how I solved it:

The slipper clutch is not really useful when running brushless on 2S Lipos. Even worse with 3S.

I ended up fully tightening the slipper clutch.

Anything less it has a survival rate of 1-2 bash runs.

But it increases the risk of drivetrain stress & damage somewhere else.

 

After changing the spur, fix the cup that holds the center dogbone with blue threadlocker (Loctite). Let it cure for a day.

Align and fix the pinion keeping a distance from the spur. Use blue threadlocker again. Also let it cure for a day.

 

Pinion & spur are not perfectly round. There is always a variance of 0.1mm or so.

You need to find the point were pinion & spur are closest.

 

Set the mesh by putting a piece of paper between pinion & spur and press the pinion against the spur.

Turn the spur to make sure that it turns smoothly. If not, reset the mesh at the point were the spur turns with some resistance.

 

If the mesh is too loose the gears will wear down.

If the mesh is too tight, the pinion will get loose and starts sliding.

 

1 day curing for the threadlocker is not really needed, but I am playing safe.

 

[Iain .R]

Hi guys   my carnage barings arrived to day  and I started to fit them and I got two probs . 

1 if the barings are shot  would they still look and feel like there still working no signs of damage  nice and tight 

Comes to prob 2

2  how do you get the barings out of the  is it hub part . 

As I tried to knock them out with round bar and small tack hammer   

 

Is there a way to get them out  or are they in one way as I was hitting them downwards when the hub part was in my hand still attached to the car  .thinking as they would have gone on the opposite way .. 

[Jens]

3 minutes ago, Iain .R said:

Hi guys   my carnage barings arrived to day  and I started to fit them and I got two probs . 

1 if the barings are shot  would they still look and feel like there still working no signs of damage  nice and tight 

Comes to prob 2

2  how do you get the barings out of the  is it hub part . 

As I tried to knock them out with round bar and small tack hammer   

 

Is there a way to get them out  or are they in one way as I was hitting them downwards when the hub part was in my hand still attached to the car  .thinking as they would have gone on the opposite way .. 

I put the hubs in a vice.

Then used a small screwdriver and a hammer, hammering lightly in a circle until they came out.

 

Put some grease inside and outside before fitting the new ones.

Makes it easier to take them out next time.

[TRX]

On 14/02/2021 at 20:13, Redback said:

I would not waste a peny on alloy body posts, they will bend and snap, stick with the 1£ plastic ones that bend back and can take a hit.
Same for the shock tower as all the forces from the body post and body go into the tower they should flex. Just my 2c

I agree, the problem with ally posts, is that there is no give so the whole force of impact, is translated into the car, causing damage on more expensive parts.

 

Thanks Redback

[Iain .R]

2 hours ago, Jens said:

I put the hubs in a vice.

Then used a small screwdriver and a hammer, hammering lightly in a circle until they came out.

 

Put some grease inside and outside before fitting the new ones.

Makes it easier to take them out next time.

Hi thanks . But one thing   would they look damaged if they was .as I'm not sure if they are  and I.might bought the wrong part ( thinking it was the barings )  as it might be the hex hubs   as they feel loose in the wheel so iv bought new hub hex alloy ones  ..once they arrive I'll sure I'll know . As the barings look ok as I think the hex hubs gone bit thin . (I think ) 

[Jens]

14 minutes ago, Iain .R said:

Hi thanks . But one thing   would they look damaged if they was .as I'm not sure if they are  and I.might bought the wrong part ( thinking it was the barings )  as it might be the hex hubs   as they feel loose in the wheel so iv bought new hub hex alloy ones  ..once they arrive I'll sure I'll know . As the barings look ok as I think the hex hubs gone bit thin . (I think ) 

Well. I can't tell from far if the bearings are ok.

You could just try to turn the driveshaft in the hub and see/feel/hear if something is wrong.

They should turn really easy and smooth and have no play at all.

 

Wobbly wheels can have many reasons.

Put the car on the stand.

Get some good light.

Gently wobble the wheels by hand in all directions.

And then find the unwanted play.

 

Common:

Little metal balls in the rods.

Holes & screws where the hub is fixed to the suspension arm.

Holes & Pin where suspension arm is fixed to the diff box.

Little metal balls where the shocks are fitted.

 

I had all of them before.

Took me a while to find each and replace them with new parts.

 

That is really normal wear and tear and need to be replaced once in a while.

[Iain .R]

When I move the wheels it's like it's just them that's moving if I tighten the nut to make the wheels firm they wont turn  it's as if iv tightened them all the way to the hub . That's why I think it might be the hubs gone thin  . There on there way. So the baring turn nice and smooth  theres no play in them.  And they look fine  theres no damaged o can see . 

 

[Jens]

49 minutes ago, Iain .R said:

When I move the wheels it's like it's just them that's moving if I tighten the nut to make the wheels firm they wont turn  it's as if iv tightened them all the way to the hub . That's why I think it might be the hubs gone thin  . There on there way. So the baring turn nice and smooth  theres no play in them.  And they look fine  theres no damaged o can see . 

 

Had the same problem when tightening the wheels too tight.

They were pressing to the hub and therefore could not turn.

Take the wheel off, pull out the hex and pin and have a closer look.

 

What I did to solve the wheel being blocked by pressing against the hub:

- Took wheel, hex, pin off.

- Before putting the pin I put some shims on (M5, 0.2mm thick, 9mm diameter --> ebay). They also protect the bearings.

- Apply white grease between the shims. White grease is with zinc to prevent corrosion.

- Put on the pin

- put a hex on, that suits the inner thickness of your wheels. Too wide is fine, but not too thin. I use alloy hexes.

- Put on the wheel.

 

Be careful with the amount of shims. The hex must move over the pin all the way in.

After all the wheel must have minimal play to move in and out. Minimal play, but at least some!

 

That solved my problem after I bought new wheels that were a bit thicker inside than the stock ones.

 

Did I confuse you now?

Yes?

Mischief accomplished!

 

[Jens]

Just fixed the new shell to my son's Bugsta.

( Lucky he gave up his Herbie idea )

I have to say that this shell looks much better than anything that FTX offers.

A chrome front bumper might be the final touch.

 

 

 

[DavidBH]

well more days go buy and the dead goolrc brushless motor and esc seller has still not given me  a refund or replacement. Replaced the RX today and still nothing. Sent them the attached pic before and the video once stripped apart. The motor is making a very strange noise and looks like its taking a fit. Also when I move it by hand a bit the beeping gets louder.

 

Long and short dont think I should have gone cheapish with the goolrc. What brushless motors/ esc's do you recommend and hopefully not the most expensive ones either! Need to get this back on the road as I had just bought the 3S lipo and the first blast in the snow was so much fun for 5-10 minutes.

[Iain .R]

Hi cheers jens  I think I  might have sorted the prob or I should say found out what the prob was . 

[Jens]

Motor or ESC gone.

I would guess the ESC is not sending enough "juice" to the motor.

But then the video doesn't show much.

Return it if you can. Make some stress.

Where did you buy it?

 

12 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

What brushless motors/ esc's do you recommend and hopefully not the most expensive ones either!

I just bought a Hobbywing Combo: Max10 ESC with a 4000KV motor.

£90 from MSUK.

That price is the difference between a new Carnage brushed vs brushless.

 

First run last weekend was very satisfying motor & ESC wise.

Very smooth. No cogging. Not much heat on the motor.

There is also a sensor cable from motor to ESC to check temperature.

ESC will shut down the motor, if it's overheating.

 

But since the pinion had too many teeth the performance was not satisfying.

Way too much speed and no wheelies...

 

I just fixed a 10T pinion today and will have a test this weekend.

 

I surely can recommend this combo.

Just not sure about the motor. 3300KV or 4000KV.

I can tell you after the weekend.

 

[Iain .R]

It's the wheels I bought as replacement till I sorted the carnage wheels out . The wobbly ones are off Gaz till I sorted out the rubbish inserts so now iv put the original wheels back on the wobble has gone   

 

So new barings   not needed 

New hub hex   not needed 

To go with my  3 packets of alloy  tie rod ends that dont fit my cars   M3 x1 M4 x2 .