azibux1

Transmitter, minor wear and tear but quite good condition as per pics, fully functional but no receiver - £30 posted Wireless Link Module, used for about 2 weeks max - £25 posted Castle Field Link Programmer - £25 posted Payment: PayPal Goods and Services (please cover fees) Delivery: Royal Mail 2nd Class Signed for Cheers :)

Servo works fine and yup Traxxas receiver - tried my mates Abisma receiver too Definitely CH2 in the Traxxas Yeah it was £50 which I thought was a steal just for some broken switch wires twisted together, thought I'd solder them up, change battery connectors to suit my setup and have a bargain Max6 but turns out not to have been the case!

Tried to enter calibration mode by holding set button while powering it on and continuing to hold until there's periodic beeps, but no beeps from the system at all, so it seems it doesn't actually go in calibration mode

I got a used Max6 from someone who said it works, but I can't seem to make it work, was hoping you may be able to offer any advice please. The wires to the power switch were cut/damaged in an accident. The switch is still present and the corresponding colour wires have been soldered back together to repair the damage. Previous owner just had them twisted instead of soldered but said it worked, but I'm doubtful, as see below. When powering on, there's no beeps to detect the 2x 3S batteries and no power out to the motor. The fan spins up on the ESC. During startup, the LED on the ESC illuminates red for a couple of seconds before going out. This behaviour doesn't match any of the possibile startup colours/sequences for the LED detailed in the manual. The batteries are at storage voltage. Factory reset procedure by holding set button for 3 seconds did nothing. When connecting Hobbywing program card, it just shows 3 dashes (---) Tried to troubleshoot with my mates X-Maxx and borrowing his receiver and motor - same outcome. My motor works fine in his truck, so I know it isn't my motor. Seems to be faulty but just wondering if anyone had any advice. Any thoughts are much appreciated

Hi all, Got my Slash 4WD LCG for sale, no longer use it as I upgraded to an X-Maxx Looking for £310 delivered - Upgraded rear driveshafts - Castle Sidewinder SCT ESC - Castle Sensored 14 Series Four Pole Brushless Motor - Tekno RC center driveshaft - Chassis brace - Beadlock wheels and tyres - Low Centre Gravity (LCG) chassis - VW Baja Bug shell (some cracks around edges) Will come with 4x 2S LiPos all in good health My feedback thread here, @Iain .R can vouch for me when he bought my FTX Outlaw around a year ago

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@MODS - Please DELETE 🙂 Traxxas TRX4 Sport with Mods - For Sale Brushless Hobbywing 550 3300 KV Low CG battery tray - standard is included 2 Speed transmission - single speed parts are included PowerHD TR4 2.6kg Waterproof Metal servo for 2 Speed transmission Fly Sky Gt5 + 6 channel receiver with gyro Led light bar on front bumper Metal Skid plates Wheel arches - One set is cut to fit Jeep Body. Narrow Wheel Arches included, Standard option with no Wheel arches is also included 1 Metal Gear Waterproof 25kg servo for steering 1.9 Beadlock Wheels and Standard TRX4 Tyres. I have Hair doughnuts instead of foams. Original foams are available Pro Line screw body mounts. Jeep body with Led lights - 4 at the front and 2 at the rear Standard TRX4 Sport body with accessories fitted. Will accept lights which are installed on Jeep body. Both bodies have some road rash, Jeep body has a small crack in the windscreen (covered by a sticker). Original body has few spots where paint came off. £450 + 15 for delivery. (PayPal Goods and Services only) See my feedback here:

Thanks for the very detailed reply! It's much appreciated I think you're right two on each would be ideal!

Thanks that is very useful! I will check it out So basically that needs a DC input, hence the server / PC PSU? Isn't looking too expensive either. And yeah the 4S I have on order are 9000mAh also and the batteries will always be used/drained in pairs in my X-Maxx What sort of amps could I charge at with the Q8 if I was doing say 4 batteries, 4S, 9000mAh It would have to be 2 batteries or 4 really, not 3, as I'm using them in pairs - right? So battery A and B might have a different charge than battery C when I'm done using them (if I stopped before the car cut out for example) EDIT: If my maths is correct, charging 4 x 4s 9000mAh would be OK on the Q8 at 7 amps (with a bit to spare) - but.... with the parallel board, that would only be safe if I drained the two pairs of batteries to the exact same voltage? As the Q8 has only one output?

Cheers! I just didn't process that at that time of the morning haha - makes sense! Reckon I'll just charge below 1C / two batteries at a time for now. Doesn't take too long Thanks! Yeah might just stick at charging below 1C and doing two at a time... 😂

Thanks Ross! What would you recommend I set it to for two 9000mAh batteries? Just to be a bit more comfortable on the charger. Sorry I'm struggling at the moment to work it out using the equation but any help would be appreciated! I see the maths you did but don't understand what the 12.6 (volts? But how did you get that figure?) is referring to and if it differs between 2S, 3S, 4S, etc. 😄 Or side note! Is there a charger you recommend that could charge 4 x 9000mAh (4S, I'm getting 4S soon) at 1C?

Been away from here for a while - gone from an FTX Outlaw, to an FTX Carnage, to a Traxxas Slash and now to a Traxxas X Maxx in less than a year 😄 This hobby is addictive! 😄 haha Question regarding my charger... It's an ISDT D2 200w 12 amp model, less than a year old Used to have 2S, 5000-6000 mAh batteries and it was fine, I didn't pay too much attention to the amps it was delivering but I'm fairly sure it was delivering what I asked for (1C). Now I have my X-Maxx 8s, I got some 9000 Zeee 3S batteries. I noticed channel 2 on the charger is consistently delivering 9 amps, but channel 1 is maxing out around 7.3 amps. I swapped balance leads, XT60 extensions and Deans adapters - the situation remains the same, channel 2 delivering 9 amps and channel 1 maxing out at 7.3 amps - so it isn't any dodgy adapter or soldering, etc. - seems to be an issue with the charger itself. Both channels should be able to deliver 12 amps. Is this anything to be concerned about? Or just a rubbish charger? Less amps is better than more I guess at least 😃

Don't break it! haha

Cheers!

This is the one? https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/323001/?gclid=CjwKCAiAg8OBBhA8EiwAlKw3ktLvLkQcZasVyB9PPH8Hb-tTndhCGDNn5dP482R1qECcF77YEvWIbhoC6H8QAvD_BwE