Jens Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 1 hour ago, suls said: Its a carnage 2.0 for what ever difference that made, I changed the plugs to XT60s to connect the lipos, aside from that its standard so far as I know. I couldn't find the matching manual online although the paper one in the box matches... The kids ran them through some muddy but not very deep puddles in the driveway and you are correct i gave them a gentle spray with the hose after (although reverse had already failed by then)... suspect they aren't as splash proof as claimed. The shops 150 miles away so if I can work out the issues they will send the parts, which is going to be easier than driving there or shipping the whole lot back I guess .... Think I'll also order two of these, which I think will be suitable for both Carnage and Outlaw, I'd like to kids to run them brushed for a bit first tbh though, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-3650-3500KV-Brushless-Motor-with-60A-ESC-Combo-Set-for-1-10-RC-Model/133227034453?epid=3036825288&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1f04f33755:g:9r4AAOSwuOZdvdvN&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkBUIiHwYv5YgVss0WaiENzxELcsTqWt%2BPtZoGA4KpDCXV7vX3HqEDrSC20XeS1Y%2BeUmVuMKYqI3DXUUX2TEPYHtkjczR4bE0M%2FaLp3r1d7yPNHtOGbOCW0CRu4YWyejX%2BWoIfl4TC7OmD1b4a8jMYcpVIn%2FOlDDsI496ebWYEkvznW1hfJMFRAmCq1E1RlOBGtx8Jo8aP7Sw8lUlSr0feBXii8yJAHdHuN%2BMYNOZu0jH%2BtirnGXrTU7RwqJfKfENRscDeQ1bkcbV484BrdWbY%2FTs842ky2KbvVROhWW2vD4Dx%2BlJwemDSMGZYJOytrpvNjS8D45vKjyiVxTgvY8GZCa8R%2FFkIR9UADaw73%2BXyD4CDm73cAef8MzNLOmFtMStKen%2FlXzARxw%2BdqJ9azmVAaj7he3DpXyoF96DQBvK5g8BVFrztd10fJXCNSkdSW7JdXmHh3ThX5xMkZOr1BRZOAfYWPP5B6tvtY%2BYtw1udIUoM86A4s4tZoguZaNfSYOLM5AITKGJwpZ%2B7k42Xb3v8%2Fg54dtlkxavBmgyW%2FTZDuIaOA4biPRpQP2lF2IQSVw0nv4bZQC1Nf%2FavlGa%2Byi%2FBL2bjPFtA1oTKjVm6qwyo8vJsbe8hp6mzpF8uXxzMuqELkLqG3ixZTywB7nl5vbDhJCXgPca%2BXtmKQbW29lTqMAGO6olVU0FRvAMyAvQ5f7%2F1jqjgOtppV3pM9ZAUUDY1JihS5NzosBIP%2BqYK7UNk3%2FgDKH%2BSKjMU%2FNCGzlqUdM8iqLkec2g2ymc0VvERybWxjmErui1tR2IzdW0p5WQhbAE%3D|cksum%3A1332270344533b32ed315c5847099a3570322135be75|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 You are right. Carnage 2.0 is different than before and different from the manuals that I have. ( Bugsta brushed is still the old version ) They are not 100% waterproof/splashproof. My local seller told that almost no ESC is really waterproof except for some Traxxas ones. Had my experience on that. The ESC though is still best "protected". The power switch and the receiver are absolutely not. I just wrapped the power switch and the receiver in a balloon and the cables then with insulation tape. About your ebay link to the brushless system. Article is based in Leicestershire. Then I am always alerted. Seller is based in China. Basically they stock up everything in Leicester (or god knows where) and sell their stuff from there. If something goes wrong it will be a big pain to get this settled. If something is broken, it will be a total loss for the seller, since he cannot take care of it personally or take it back to China. Therefore they are very inventive to avoid any losses. On my first car (some WLToys) something was broken. Seller ask me to send it back at my expense with the promise to pay the shipping later. Never received the shipping money. The same car became available again on ebay. Until the seller finds a buyer who accepts a damaged car. It is a bit more expensive to buy through a local seller with a local distribution. But at least you get good customer service and less headache. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suls Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 55 minutes ago, Jens said: You are right. Carnage 2.0 is different than before and different from the manuals that I have. ( Bugsta brushed is still the old version ) They are not 100% waterproof/splashproof. My local seller told that almost no ESC is really waterproof except for some Traxxas ones. Had my experience on that. The ESC though is still best "protected". The power switch and the receiver are absolutely not. I just wrapped the power switch and the receiver in a balloon and the cables then with insulation tape. About your ebay link to the brushless system. Article is based in Leicestershire. Then I am always alerted. Seller is based in China. Basically they stock up everything in Leicester (or god knows where) and sell their stuff from there. If something goes wrong it will be a big pain to get this settled. If something is broken, it will be a total loss for the seller, since he cannot take care of it personally or take it back to China. Therefore they are very inventive to avoid any losses. On my first car (some WLToys) something was broken. Seller ask me to send it back at my expense with the promise to pay the shipping later. Never received the shipping money. The same car became available again on ebay. Until the seller finds a buyer who accepts a damaged car. It is a bit more expensive to buy through a local seller with a local distribution. But at least you get good customer service and less headache. Yeah highly suspect some water got in the ESC on the carnage.. def seems that way.. Have spent the afternoon swapping bits around: Took the ESC from the Outlaw and stuck it on the carnage = fully working carnage (no issues with reverse) Swopped the ESC back with the motor from the carnage as well to the Outlaw = fully working Outlaw So in summary ESC gone on the carnage and motor on the Outlaw, spoken to the supplier and they are going to get some new parts sent out.. at least the kids have one working RC car for now. Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions, learnt a fair bit in the last couple of days ! 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 5 minutes ago, suls said: Yeah highly suspect some water got in the ESC on the carnage.. def seems that way.. Have spent the afternoon swapping bits around: Took the ESC from the Outlaw and stuck it on the carnage = fully working carnage (no issues with reverse) Swopped the ESC back with the motor from the carnage as well to the Outlaw = fully working Outlaw So in summary ESC gone on the carnage and motor on the Outlaw, spoken to the supplier and they are going to get some new parts sent out.. at least the kids have one working RC car for now. Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions, learnt a fair bit in the last couple of days ! That's good news . Iv only been in to rc a cupl weeks and iv done some repairs to my car I know iv not done brain surgery but still iv learned a bit and from these guys help on here . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 Good that you had 2 "similar" cars. That cleared everything for you. And don't forget the 3rd car for you to join us gang of overgrown kids. 😇. . There is plenty of choice out there. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suls Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 9 minutes ago, Jens said: Good that you had 2 "similar" cars. That cleared everything for you. And don't forget the 3rd car for you to join us gang of overgrown kids. 😇. . There is plenty of choice out there. Yeah have to admit think there is a good case for a "Daddies" car having invested in the chargers and batteries and kids cars etc already 😀 Will prob go for some thing a bit more substantial from the off on mine, if any one has any suggestions of the type of thing that might suit feel free to chime in, I've had a few looks but always seem to end up looking at S6 buggys at 600+ quid, which is probably a little extreme for my needs in reality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 3 hours ago, lennylogknob said: Changing the chassis isn't actually such a bad job. Just get the whole thing upside down and steady then remove all the screws at once, remove the chassis and fit the new one. If that sound too scary then cut the front 5mm or so (the broken bit in front of the front gearbox) off your current chassis and get hold of one of these... https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-chassis-front-part-vantage/rc-car-products/365785 ...cut this down to fit then fix it in place using the four screws that hold the front gearbox to the chassis. This will leave the bottom fixing for the bumper a couple of mm lower but there's enough flex in the bumper for it to fit. The other bonus of this is that if the same thing happens again then it'll only cost a couple of quid to fix. Thanks, Lenny (and @Jens) - you're both being incredibly helpful. I'll look at these two options, but if the chassis swap can be done like you say, with the whole thing remaining largely intact, I reckon that's be within my abilities. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 (edited) 33 minutes ago, wateroftyne said: Thanks, Lenny (and @Jens) - you're both being incredibly helpful. I'll look at these two options, but if the chassis swap can be done like you say, with the whole thing remaining largely intact, I reckon that's be within my abilities. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again! Plz let us (me ) know as if I buy an alloy one or my daughter does what your son did lol I'll have to do the same . There is one thing I changed the spur gear last week . And I undid the 4 screws underneath which allowed the whole back of the car to come away from the chassis so I guess the front is the same Edited December 27, 2020 by Iain .R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James A S Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Hi everyone, has anyone found a video of someone replacing the front diff on a Bugsta? Think ive shredded a few teeth on my sons xmas present already. :( two nights ove been sat witha head torch on with the car-on my lap whilst the family watch Christmas movies together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_01 Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 20 hours ago, lennylogknob said: Changing the chassis isn't actually such a bad job. Just get the whole thing upside down and steady then remove all the screws at once, remove the chassis and fit the new one. If that sound too scary then cut the front 5mm or so (the broken bit in front of the front gearbox) off your current chassis and get hold of one of these... https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-chassis-front-part-vantage/rc-car-products/365785 ...cut this down to fit then fix it in place using the four screws that hold the front gearbox to the chassis. This will leave the bottom fixing for the bumper a couple of mm lower but there's enough flex in the bumper for it to fit. The other bonus of this is that if the same thing happens again then it'll only cost a couple of quid to fix. Hi Lenny(?) I would appear to have done the same thing on my first run (hit a low kerb). This is my first car and I was always expecting to do some running repairs - but replacing the whole chassis does feel a bit scary, so I think I will try this first. (and I like the idea that it would be a replacebale part). If I may ask a couple of basic questions. I think from the pictures below I would need to use the 4 screws as indicated. I also think that from the exploded picture these are FTX6536. - Flat head screws 3*10. Now for the stupid question - I'm guessing I'd need to replace these screws with something a little longer - 3*12? And the next stupid question - is it important that these are FTX? I'm guessing a screw is a screw, but since I need to order these I'd prefer to know I'm getting the right thing, rather than trial and error. Thanks in advance Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Ha ha... I bet this is a regular thing just after Christmas every year. An influx of newbies (myself included) desperate for help... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 ...for now, I've gone the superglue route. Until it happens again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 I have decided to break the damaged carnage so will work out what i am keeping and what i am selling then put all the bits in the for sale section, but think i will keep the upper and lower arms plus diffs as spares for my Ford bodied brushless carnage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 4 hours ago, Steve_01 said: Hi Lenny(?) I would appear to have done the same thing on my first run (hit a low kerb). This is my first car and I was always expecting to do some running repairs - but replacing the whole chassis does feel a bit scary, so I think I will try this first. (and I like the idea that it would be a replacebale part). If I may ask a couple of basic questions. I think from the pictures below I would need to use the 4 screws as indicated. I also think that from the exploded picture these are FTX6536. - Flat head screws 3*10. Now for the stupid question - I'm guessing I'd need to replace these screws with something a little longer - 3*12? And the next stupid question - is it important that these are FTX? I'm guessing a screw is a screw, but since I need to order these I'd prefer to know I'm getting the right thing, rather than trial and error. Thanks in advance Steve Hi I just fitted a wheelie bar to my carnage and there was new screws in there to use as i (like you ) thought need longer screws but no the ones that can with the wheelie bar was the same ones in the carnage already. So i would say no the ones you have should be ok BUT DONT TAKE MY WORD FOR IT lol . 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazz77 Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 On 24/02/2018 at 11:29, vimto2000 said: Sounds good! I much prefer tarmac.. It might be harsher when you crash etc but so much easier to clean!! I've bought one of those skateboard ramps second hand on eBay for a few quid so the kids got something good to jump but not crazy high to damage! Will definitely recommend using drywall tape and shoe goo for the shell. I didn't use this.. I used evostik stuff.. And it toughens up the shell while giving it flex! Do you use the drywall tape on inside I’m new to this just bought brushless bugsta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 I just had a look at the skateboard ramps an bmx ramps and I found d one that I thought was cheap and free postage so I thought that do me till I read it it's a FINGER SKATEBOARD RAMP lol that would be my luck its 10 inch long 3 inch wide lol . Ha ha if you guys do buy a ramp check the size 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennylogknob Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 On 28/12/2020 at 12:02, Steve_01 said: I think from the pictures below I would need to use the 4 screws as indicated. I also think that from the exploded picture these are FTX6536. - Flat head screws 3*10. Now for the stupid question - I'm guessing I'd need to replace these screws with something a little longer - 3*12? And the next stupid question - is it important that these are FTX? I'm guessing a screw is a screw, but since I need to order these I'd prefer to know I'm getting the right thing, rather than trial and error. Thanks in advance Hi Steve, The honest answer is I don't know! I fitted that bumper this way a couple of years ago and don't remember it causing me any hassle so I presume I fitted it with the original screws. If you're going to fit it to the front of a plastic chassis then you're going to have to cut it down to go around those raised sections too but that should be easy enough. A screw is a screw and mine has a collection of various M3 screws from various sources nowadays as it's been apart many, many times. I've found the FTX screws to be a bit rubbish and the hex easily rounds off so I'd rather replace them all with something else if I had the choice. (If you do manage to round one off then it's possible to tap a appropriately sized torx/spline into the hole to get the screw out.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_01 Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 1 hour ago, lennylogknob said: The honest answer is I don't know! Thanks Lenny. I've order a selection of screws so I'll see what works....................I'll let you know what worked I ended up driving into a goal post so I now have to do a more major surgery - so I'll no doubt need those extra screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) ended up driving into a goal post so I now have to do a more major surgery - so I'll no doubt need those extra screws christ that's some driving a whole football pitch and you hit the only 6 inch hard part in over 80 yard square lol your my kind of driver lol . What did you damage this time. as my daughter crashed my carnage last week in to a curb ripped the front wheel off . (Just had the email parts been shipped ) so did you manage to repair it or is it off the road .. Edited December 30, 2020 by Iain .R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_01 Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Iain .R said: What did you damage this time. Front wheel and suspension etc. ! Just ordered what I hope are all the right parts - really looking forward to seeing if I can actually mend it............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennylogknob Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 I think it's all brilliant. I never expected to enjoy fixing it more than driving it but at least that means I don't worry about smashing it nowadays. I can't begin to imagine how many broken front suspension arms I've had (but thankfully none since I put the aluminium ones on). I reckon I could change an arm in less than five minutes now after all the practise I've had! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_01 Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 1 hour ago, lennylogknob said: I can't begin to imagine how many broken front suspension arms I've had (but thankfully none since I put the aluminium ones on) I'm already wondering about upgrading some parts to AL, but from the brief reading Ive done it seems there are two camps.... either dont bother as the 'plastic' ones are cheap and easy to replace, versus doing the upgrades (but be aware that you may simply be moving the problem down the chain so to speak). Seems you've had a good experience with the upgrade Lenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 3 hours ago, Steve_01 said: I'm already wondering about upgrading some parts to AL, but from the brief reading Ive done it seems there are two camps.... either dont bother as the 'plastic' ones are cheap and easy to replace, versus doing the upgrades (but be aware that you may simply be moving the problem down the chain so to speak). Seems you've had a good experience with the upgrade Lenny I'm going with alloy upgrades. As I think from what's been said it's a good idea . I see you smashed the bottom of the arm my daughter smashed the top parts . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash1984 Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 (edited) Afternoon all, Me and the boy have a Carnage and Torro, we've got the same problem on both cars and they're both two days old, two is the number! Please help? 1. Both are not that happy going into reverse, sometimes they will most the time they won't. 2. Both randomly won't beep once on turning on and the ESC light flashes red slowly and the car won't respond, the motors or ESC's are not hot. Sometimes they do this fresh from cold, sometimes they do it in a middle of run. I've been away from the forum for years, my son is now 13 and well into his new RC so want to keep the fire burning! Tempted to sell the FTX's and buy a pair of Arrma Granites for the better electronics and such! All the best and HAPPY NEW YEAR MUDDY FUDDERS! Edited January 1, 2021 by Ash1984 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_01 Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 On 29/12/2020 at 20:46, lennylogknob said: I fitted that bumper this way a couple of years ago and don't remember it causing me any hassle so I presume I fitted it with the original screws. Hi Lenny It looks like the fixing holes on the bumper dont align with the extention piece. How did you solve that? I'm thinking I might drill a new hole and use a nut/bolt (I dont think I can tap a hole) Thanks in advance Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennylogknob Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 I think you're looking at the wrong end. That's the end you'll have to cut off to fit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.